Ignorant Fire Forming Question

[mmahoney]

I recently acquired a 6mm-250 with a heavy Shilen BR barrel, set of dies, and 50 brass casings. I'd like to have more than 50 rounds loaded up and ready to go, though. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but to make more brass I need to:
1. purchase some .22-250 ammo
2. fire it in through the 6mm-250
3. The resulting brass can then be reloaded with a 6mm bullet.

Is this correct? Seems odd firing a different caliber bullet through a barrel. Feels wrong, likely to cause damage to the gun, and dangerous.

 

[tansinator]

No, Neck up to a 6mm then fireform

 

[Supersubes]

Buy brass, neck up with a mandrel, load, and shoot. Lapua does make 22-250 brass also, if you’re looking for premium stuff.

 

[mmahoney]

Thanks. The Lapua brass is the way I'll go. Just bought some from Midway.

 

[PatMiles]

Anneal the brass before you neck up. Yes, it's new brass but at what point in the manufacturing process was it last annealed?

 

[mmahoney]

Thanks, Pat. I wasn't planning on annealing the brass until I'd fired them a few times. I suppose softening the brass up a bit before stretching it out is a good idea.

 

[TxWelder35]

Yeah you definitely don’t want to fire 22-250 ammo in your rifle. I don’t imagine your barrel would appreciate that

 

[mmahoney]

Yeah you definitely don’t want to fire 22-250 ammo in your rifle. I don’t imagine your barrel would appreciate that

I didn't think so, but as the title of the thread says, I'm pretty ignorant of the process. I've got a lot of learning to do.

 

[supercorndogs]

Anneal the brass before you neck up. Yes, it's new brass but at what point in the manufacturing process was it last annealed?

They anneal brass several times while they are drawing it out. There is no need to anneal it again to neck it up to 6mm. This can be as simple as once over a 6mm expander ball.

 

[mmahoney]

New ignorant question. What is the difference between a mandrel and an expander ball? Is one preferrable to the other?

 

[Supersubes]

Unlike most expander balls, mandrels float. Their shape is a little friendlier for necking up as well.

 

[Rocketmandb]

Remember to lube the mandrel/expander ball. If you use a mandrel, you'll probably need to run it though your sizing die afterward.

 

[Threadcutter308]

Check out 21st Century for mandrels/bodies;

Neck Up Expander Die

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www.xxicsi.com

Expander Die Body

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Be sure and lube the mandrel and the inside of the case necks.

 

[mmahoney]

Check out 21st Century for mandrels/bodies;

Awesome. Thanks for the links and video.

How would you recommend removing the lube from the case neck when finished?

 

[Rocketmandb]

Awesome. Thanks for the links and video.

How would you recommend removing the lube from the case neck when finished?

I use a Q-Tip - swirl it around a bunch of times in each case.

 

[Threadcutter308]

Awesome. Thanks for the links and video.

How would you recommend removing the lube from the case neck when finished?

Clean Q-Tips, then some Brake Kleen on Q-Tip. Or, Q-Tip, then run them through your tumbler with either corn cob or rice. Tumble just like you would anything else.

 

[Snuby642]

You could just run it in your tumbler after the last step prior to priming.

I always work then tumble virgin brass same as reloads.

Consistency.

 

[Threadcutter308]

Oh, if you're going to go the mandrel route, I wouldn't spend the money on carbide or titanium nitride coating. If you are going the route of die/expander ball, it might be worth considering. Keep in mind that brass is lots softer than steel, as well as the fact that you're not going to ever wear the tool out. Personally, I wouldn't spend the extra money.

Snuby, Your thoughts ?

 

[Snuby642]

No experience with mandrels.
Could you use grafite dry lube in the necks or is that too much force / friction.

I started dipping my necks in grafite and Imperial wax outside because it was quicker no other reason.

 

[Threadcutter308]

No experience with mandrels.
Could you use grafite dry lube in the necks or is that too much force / friction.

I started dipping my necks in grafite and Imperial wax outside because it was quicker no other reason.

I’ve never used graphite, Imperial has always worked fine for me.

 

[PO3JDA]

Well.... You're definitely not as ignorant as I am. I thought fire forming involved a blow torch lol

 

[mmahoney]

Is graphite a lubricant? I'm picturing the neck grinding along graphite powder as it scrapes by.

 

[Threadcutter308]

Is graphite a lubricant? I'm picturing the neck grinding along graphite powder as it scrapes by.

Yes, definitely a lubricant. Not an abrasive.

 

[DAVETOOLEY]

Yeah you definitely don’t want to fire 22-250 ammo in your rifle. I don’t imagine your barrel would appreciate that

The only thing that will happen is the bullet will hit about 65 yds, down range.

 

[Snuby642]

The grafite Imperial dry lube I use to seat bullets and inside neck for sizing is very slick.

It won't effect powder

 

[Nodakplowboy]

I've had the best results (using Redding dies) by dipping a Q-tip in neck turning oil or light synthetic motor oil then wiping this neck I.D. Use steady even pressure and a slow stroke on the press handle. Remove the oil by tumbling or a rinse in solvent. 90% alcohol works well. Fire form as you would new brass.

VV 540, 8208, 4320 are all good powders. PM me if would like some data.

Edit: if you have access to Sierra #5 you can use 6mm International data. Loads from 60 to 107 bullets. Not the newest powder selections but a good place to start.

 

[Dthomas3523]

I use one shot in a .22 caliber mop for 6mm.

I use it before mandrel, and again before seating (less messy than graphite or any powder).

And it’s super quick. Spray the mop, run it into 20 case, spray, 20 cases, etc etc.

Have seen any issues with powder contamination when using it for seating. The worst ES I get is 20 and that’s a bad day.