Info to build a precision bolt action rifle

[KRATOCT]

Looking for some insight to good resources to learn more about the ins and outs of building a lightweight long distance precision bolt gun. The steps, materials, tools and work required to do it.

I’ve built many AR’s, large and small frame and the last one being a 20” 6.5CM focused around longer distance shooting. I’ve become very familiar with those frames/components.
Trying to better familiarize myself with the primary components of building a bolt gun that appear to just be stock/chassis, action, trigger assembly, barrel and muzzle device.

I like the idea of utilizing an aftermarket chassis such as something from MDT or XLR. The HNT26 definitely stands out since my goals would be continuing long distance shooting, this time with a bolt gun but also having a lighter packable option for western hunting.

How do most people develop a build for a chassis like this? Start with a complete rifle, remove the stock and drop it in a chassis and upgrade as you go? Or start with a custom action, barrel and trigger right from the start?

Lastly what is required for assembly of a custom action, trigger assembly, barrel and chassis? I’d assume most components bolt together but what is required to pair the action to a barrel?

 

[Phil McGrath]

Light weight and precision don’t boad well, not saying you can’t build a lightweight rifle that isn’t accurate it’s how long will it shoot accurately before it heats up. Most shooters shoot strings not 3 or 5rds. and cool down for a few minutes.

I‘m not a custom action guy, so I will defer to others on their merit. I am a Remington 700 guy and believe there just fine after making sure what adjustments if any in any needed areas makes for a solid building foundation. Shooting a high dollar action is nice but one hole or 1/2moa group from a trued up 700 works for me and my wallet, plus the cost difference buys more reloading supplies so I can enjoy my build.

As for what’s needed too put one together, a good group of like minded shooting buddies for a honest sounding board too bounce ideas off of, there are a few here that can fill the gap for you. Tools you will need tools or a buddy with tools to get you over the hump.

 

[FisherT&C]

I've built a few lighter rifles that are very capable of shooting longer distances. They all usually use carbon fiber barrels. Some with carbon fiber stocks or fiber glass. Depending on the action and barrel length they usually weigh between 8 - 10.5 pounds scoped. If you don't go with a monster cartridge and use a decent brake or suppressor they won't beat you up too bad. MPA has light hunting chassis, I would get one with a folding butt stock to make it more packable.

 

[Forrest84]

Last year I built a 6.5 creed big horn origin with a 22” proof carbon barrel and an LRH stock with a vortex Light hunter scope and a hellfire break that weights in at like # 10.25 and it shoots quite soft. Just to pitch an example to you.
it feels very well balanced and in the hand it feels lighter than 10 if that makes any sense.
But if I’m hunting on foot down here in most of Texas a 10 pound gun at 16” I feel is best all around.

 

[KnowNothing256]

I've built a few lighter rifles that are very capable of shooting longer distances. They all usually use carbon fiber barrels. Some with carbon fiber stocks or fiber glass. Depending on the action and barrel length they usually weigh between 8 - 10.5 pounds scoped. If you don't go with a monster cartridge.and use a decent brake or suppressor they won't beat you up too bad. MPA has light hunting chassis, I would get one with a folding butt stock to make it more packable.

Can definitely put together a precision gun that’s also lightweight; however, I think it edges more into “specialist” territory and you’d be well-served to chat with some people that put them together.

That said, it’s not hard to do yourself with a few key tools: barrel vise, action wrench, and torque wrench. You’ve got the parts list right, and I think if I was gonna give you one more piece of advice based on your original post, it’s this:

If you want lightweight precision, build it. You’re already playing in the big leagues cost-wise to combine those two features, and trying to ride the razor edge of “quality but cheap” runs a very strong risk of being frustrated. Ignore every factory rifle, and just step right into putting together a full build on either a Tikka action or a “custom” R700 footprint action. Hard to find a bare Tikka action, so you’ll probably get into your intent easier with a custom R700 clone.

 

[Obi-WanKannoli]

I am going to say you should skip the Remington 700 these days. A custom action / clone will run you about the same now and you can run pre fit barrels with all the added feature set.

 

[Gil P.]

How much do you want your complete rifle to weigh?

 

[b6graham]

easy button

Origin
Proof 6.5CM/6.5PRC carbon prefit (or steel depending on what lightweight is to you)
XLR Element 4.0 Mag (add folder and either carbon or C6 buttstock)
Trigger of Choice
TS Ghost or SRS Brake (or a can if you want)
sub 36oz scope of choice

you can be around 9-11 pounds with that setup. change to a steel barrel and be 12-16 pounds. add weights and be 20+ pounds

my current build in progress is basically that but with a Ti3 and Zeiss S5.
carbon 7SAUM for hunting.
then i can put in a steel 7SAW for NRL Hunter and shorter hike hunts.
or throw on a 6Dasher and weights and shoot PRS style matches
all from the same chassis swithcing around buttstock, barrel, and weights to fit each requirement

it really comes down to what you want it to weigh. which we don't know.

also budget matters. but if you're talking XLR/HNT26 we can ssume its a decent budget.

as far as tools to build the entire gun
barrel vise
fix it stick bundle
maybe a wrench or two
action wrench and torque wrench can help

 

[KRATOCT]

Exact weight or even budget are hard to determine at this point. I'm just starting to look into this get a better feel of what is doable for weight and what things might cost. Weight wise, a 10 lbs. scoped rifle would be nice. I like the idea of running a carbon barrel again. Thinking possibly Proof this time. That last gas gun build I mentioned has a 20" 6.5CM Christensen barrel and I'm happy with it. I don't think I care to get into the Ti actions. I'm fine with S.S.

When it comes to getting an action, outside of the custom action situation, where is the best place to get a 700 action or a Tikka action? Purchase a complete gun and ditch the stock? There's no where to buy a factory action individually is there?

I have most of the tools mentioned so I should be good there. Thanks for the information there.

As far as the HNT26 chassis, I'll work more on developing a budget as I gain more knowledge and preference for what I think I'll be happy with. From the start it has just been a very cool option but definitely carries a very hefty price tag.

 

[KRATOCT]

I've built a few lighter rifles that are very capable of shooting longer distances. They all usually use carbon fiber barrels. Some with carbon fiber stocks or fiber glass. Depending on the action and barrel length they usually weigh between 8 - 10.5 pounds scoped. If you don't go with a monster cartridge and use a decent brake or suppressor they won't beat you up too bad. MPA has light hunting chassis, I would get one with a folding butt stock to make it more packable.

Last year I built a 6.5 creed big horn origin with a 22” proof carbon barrel and an LRH stock with a vortex Light hunter scope and a hellfire break that weights in at like # 10.25 and it shoots quite soft. Just to pitch an example to you.
it feels very well balanced and in the hand it feels lighter than 10 if that makes any sense.
But if I’m hunting on foot down here in most of Texas a 10 pound gun at 16” I feel is best all around.

Can definitely put together a precision gun that’s also lightweight; however, I think it edges more into “specialist” territory and you’d be well-served to chat with some people that put them together.

That said, it’s not hard to do yourself with a few key tools: barrel vise, action wrench, and torque wrench. You’ve got the parts list right, and I think if I was gonna give you one more piece of advice based on your original post, it’s this:

If you want lightweight precision, build it. You’re already playing in the big leagues cost-wise to combine those two features, and trying to ride the razor edge of “quality but cheap” runs a very strong risk of being frustrated. Ignore every factory rifle, and just step right into putting together a full build on either a Tikka action or a “custom” R700 footprint action. Hard to find a bare Tikka action, so you’ll probably get into your intent easier with a custom R700 clone.

I am going to say you should skip the Remington 700 these days. A custom action / clone will run you about the same now and you can run pre fit barrels with all the added feature set.

easy button

Origin
Proof 6.5CM/6.5PRC carbon prefit (or steel depending on what lightweight is to you)
XLR Element 4.0 Mag (add folder and either carbon or C6 buttstock)
Trigger of Choice
TS Ghost or SRS Brake (or a can if you want)
sub 36oz scope of choice

you can be around 9-11 pounds with that setup. change to a steel barrel and be 12-16 pounds. add weights and be 20+ pounds

my current build in progress is basically that but with a Ti3 and Zeiss S5.
carbon 7SAUM for hunting.
then i can put in a steel 7SAW for NRL Hunter and shorter hike hunts.
or throw on a 6Dasher and weights and shoot PRS style matches
all from the same chassis swithcing around buttstock, barrel, and weights to fit each requirement

it really comes down to what you want it to weigh. which we don't know.

also budget matters. but if you're talking XLR/HNT26 we can ssume its a decent budget.

as far as tools to build the entire gun
barrel vise
fix it stick bundle
maybe a wrench or two
action wrench and torque wrench can help

Thanks for all the suggestions and support on the builds you've done and suggestions for mine. Can you guys suggest actions to look into, custom or factory and where to find them? Actions are the grayest area for me and I'm still trying to figure out what the different options are.

 

[Obi-WanKannoli]

Thanks for all the suggestions and support on the builds you've done and suggestions for mine. Can you guys suggest actions to look into, custom or factory and where to find them? Actions are the grayest area for me and I'm still trying to figure out what the different options are.

Two starter questions:

1) what is your budget?
2) aside from "light weight precision rifle" what is your intended use? Target, hunting, competition, punching paper, etc.?

 

[KnowNothing256]

Thanks for all the suggestions and support on the builds you've done and suggestions for mine. Can you guys suggest actions to look into, custom or factory and where to find them? Actions are the grayest area for me and I'm still trying to figure out what the different options are.

There are a few different routes to take for actions:

Factory:
1) Factory R700: You basically have to buy a full rifle then strip it for parts. Not recommended.
2) Factory Tikka T3x: You have to buy a full rifle then strip it for parts. Pretty good option if you're trying to save on cost.
3) Factory Savage stuff: I'm not as familiar with these, but they do have a reputation for shooting well. You'd likely end up stripping it for parts, but if you buy headspace gauges you can install your barrels yourself. I'd go with the Tikka before a Savage.
3) Literally anything else: Not recommended. Prefit barrels are a very nice way to save on a significant build cost, and if you're looking to go lightweight, Proof prefits are the cheapest quality carbon option around. Proof doesn't cut shouldered prefits for hardly any factory actions, Tikka and Ruger are about it and you should move right on past the Rugers.

Custom:
1) Budget Tier: Zermatt Origin or American Rifle Company (ARC) Coup De Grace or Nucleus. The CDG is only a budget-tier choice for a little while until the intro price lapses; no Proof prefits yet, but PVA will cut them. Lots and lots of fancy features on the CDG, for the same price as the Origin which truly is an intro custom action. Both good choices; CDG wait time is roughly 4 months if you bought today. I'd definitely pick the CDG over the Nucleus at current prices.
2) Middle Tier: Lots of options here, you can search the Hide for "which custom action" threads. It ultimately comes down to what you want in features; prefit barrels should feature prominently on your preferred features, but it's not strictly mandatory.
3) Pricey Tier: Impact 737, ARC Mausingfield, or various titanium options. I'm frankly not convinced that these are worth the money, which is why I own a "middle tier" custom action. That said, ammo is far and away the most expensive part of the game, so a few hundred extra bucks on an action fades into the cost noise after awhile.

Most people on the Hide will tell you to get a custom action. This isn't a community that values "best bang for the buck," generally; we gravitate more to premium features. If you asked on places like Rokslide, you'd get the opposite response: "I've been using my grandpappy's old Marlin lever action and it ain't fail't me yet!" And all hyperbole aside, they're often not wrong; factory guns have come a dang long way in the last couple decades, and you can buy a real shooter for less than a grand off the rack. However, you're always making compromises on quality to go that route, whether it's rough action feel, poor aftermarket barrel/stock/accessory support, bad stock ergonomics, cheap hardware, or similar items. If you get a custom action, you won't experience nearly as much FOMO; most people here will tell you to go custom because they already went a cheaper route then upgraded later to what they could've just bought the first time around.

Lots of good options out there, but "what action should I get" tells us one thing more than anything else: you still have some more research to do. You're not in the worst place for it, but if you're gray on which actions to consider, I recommend starting (or looking for) another thread, asking "Which action features should I require for my lightweight long-range hunting build?" It might help narrow the field for you.

 

[FisherT&C]

Thanks for all the suggestions and support on the builds you've done and suggestions for mine. Can you guys suggest actions to look into, custom or factory and where to find them? Actions are the grayest area for me and I'm still trying to figure out what the different options are.

Check out www.frontrangeprecisionllc.com/ @Front Range Precision He keeps Zermatt actions in stock and Proof Barrels. You can buy every component you would need to build a complete rifle. I would not recommend buying an action directly from the manufacturer unless no one has the one you want. You will not save money buying from the manufacturer and it usually takes a long time to get it. So look at the manufacturer's dealer network and see who has what you want. They're going to fill their big dealer orders first because most of them are committed by agreement to purchase a set number of actions per month/year. Tikka in my opinion is hands down the best budget friendly option for factory actions and they are prefit compatible.

 

[pmclaine]

Look up my posts on my M40A1ish, my LRI M40 DBM or my M40.223.

Just pay my royalty fee and copy my wisdom.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

You absolutely can have a do all rifle and you're on the right track with the HNT26, but you're going to have to swap barrels to have the best of both worlds, so something that accepts shouldered prefits is ideal. I just did exactly this and I'm working on adding some more barrels now.

There are lots of good aftermarket actions, I went with an Impact 737R because I believe it's the best out there and it's in a HNT26 folder with TT special 2 stage and currently wearing a Proof CF 20" 223 barrel. With the NXS 2.5-10x42 that's currently on it the weigh is 8lbs 4.2oz which will finish up right at 9lbs in that configuration once my brake gets here to mount my TBAC Ultra 7. I'm planning on swapping the optic to a TT315M or NX8 4-32 for a little more versatility and that will come at about an 8oz weight penalty which is still light enough for me for a hunting rifle. You can also go with a Impact NBK and drop 7oz off the weight. Actions like the Origin and Coup De Grace are also lighter.

I'm also going to add a 6.5 Creedmoor Proof CF or Bartlein CF barrel for hunting as well as a SS Proof 6.5 Creedmoor truck axle contour for target shooting that will put it in the 17lbs range with bipod as well. Swapping barrels it as simple as tightening it in a barrel vise, remocing the bolt, intserting an action wrench to brake it loose then spinning the next barrel on and tightening it down.

 

[Evintos]

Lastly what is required for assembly of a custom action, trigger assembly, barrel and chassis? I’d assume most components bolt together but what is required to pair the action to a barrel?

Action wrench
Barrel vise
Hammer
Punch
Torque wrench
Barrel nut wrench
Headspace gauges
Hex and/or Torx wrenches
Paper tape or leather, etc
Anti-seize paste

Some tools are optional
------------
Wrap paper tape or piece of leather around barrel. Secure barrel (shouldered prefit) into barrel vise. Apply a tiny bit of anti-seize on threads. Screw on action, use action wrench + torque wrench to torque action onto barrel. Check headspace.

Alternative - Wrap paper tape or piece of leather around barrel. Secure barrel (shouldered prefit) into barrel vise. Apply a tiny bit of anti-seize on threads. Screw on barrel nut, then screw on action. Use headspace Go gauge to set headspace and finish by tightening barrel nut to spec with torque wrench + barrel nut wrench. Double check headspace using remaining gauges.

Trigger installation is usually tap out two pins, install trigger by placing into action or trigger hanger and tapping the two pins back in.

Actions bolt onto chassis or stock.
----------------------------------
You can either go with a "turnkey" solution and maybe think about upgrading later on (if upgrades are available) or semi turnkey (barreled action) or you go custom.
Majority of the custom actions will be Remington 700 or R700 compatible. R700 will have the most aftermarket accessories. My suggestion is to look up "pre-fit barrels" from multiple different companies, and then see what actions they offer prefits for and then look up the feature set of those actions. I don't know of any website that has all the custom actions available with description in one place so you're gonna have to do a lot of digging.

The biggest problem with asking people here about which custom action is that we all have different preferences and budgets. On top of that, most of us have multiple rifles that fill different roles. Some features might not matter to you but matter to others, however, if you don't have any experience with bolt actions to begin with, you won't know what matters so you'd have to look up the pros and cons of feature individually (such as various different degree bolt throws, integrated vs pinned recoil lug, interchangeable bolt heads) and make an educated guess as to what you need vs what you would like.

 

[rootacres]

I too was kinda in your situation a few years ago. I ended up building from the ground up with components. Being that you plan to use a chassis that eliminates any bedding that might have needed to take place. Now you can legit do it in your basement if you really want to. I originally started my build below with an Allterra Arms stock. Great stock but I wanted a folder so I have a HNT26 on its way.

Tools needed:
Barrel Vice
Zermatt Action wrench
Wrench and Socket to torque to specific ft/lbs
Go/No Go gauges (these can be rented, its cheap, you use them and then send them back)

My Build:
Origin SA
22" Proof 7 SAUM
SRS Chubb brake
Timney HIT Trigger
MDT HNT26
VUDU 5-25x50 or Mark 5 3.6-18x44

I'll add that most muzzle brakes fit great on Proof Sendero Contours. I had the SRS turned down, blended and cerakoted to match. My long term plan if I enjoy my first NRL Hunter match is to spin up a different barrel to save the 7 SAUM barrel. At that point I'll just buy another self timer like the APA or Area 419. Then I'm just a barrel and magazine away from having a hunting to competition rig.