Installing a Prefit

[Hondo1]

Been shooting AI’s, DT’s, and other customs for a lot of years but I have never put a conventional bolt action together.
This will be on a Mausingfield with a shouldered prefit. My question is do I oil, antiseize, or leave the threads dry.

Thanks

 

[rijndael]

I use a high temp wheel bearing grease.

 

[celltech]

I use 33MS grease...seems to work just fine.

 

[Steel head]

I just use any grease.

 

[HousePlant]

Copper anti-seize for me. Specifically states on the package intended for stainless steel and high-temp. I've heard of others using engine assembly lube, moly paste/grease, brake caliper grease, standard silver anti-seize, etc. It's more important to have something than nothing (unless you never intend to change the barrel... then I guess who cares). This really shouldn't be your greatest concern.

 

[rustyinbend]

Use this ... works great ... I use it on suppressor threads too.

 

[Hondo1]

Any time I open a can of Anti-seize that shit ends up everywhere, even after a shower it will end up in the bed sheets. Ha!
I think I’ll go with the grease option.

 

[rustyinbend]

Any time I open a can of Anti-seize that shit ends up everywhere, even after a shower it will end up in the bed sheets. Ha!
I think I’ll go with the grease option.

The Loctite "stick" works great for avoiding a mess. I pop the cap and apply it to the threads with a Q-Tip.

 

[b6graham]

I just use any grease.

this. whatever is on the shelf

 

[Forward543]

Nah, chuck it in dry. Said no one ever.

 

[shaun1826]

 

[kthomas]

 

[Wannashootit]

I use nickel-based anti-seize because barrels and receivers are often stainless steel.

Copper-based anti-seize can cause issues with stainless.

From Henkel/Loctite website:

However, it is important to remember that while many compounds exist for stainless steel, copper anti-seize on stainless steel will create inter-crystalline corrosion which can cause parts to crack or break when under heavy loads.

 

[Hondo1]

I use nickel-based anti-seize because barrels and receivers are often stainless steel.

Copper-based anti-seize can cause issues with stainless.

From Henkel/Loctite website:

However, it is important to remember that while many compounds exist for stainless steel, copper anti-seize on stainless steel will create inter-crystalline corrosion which can cause parts to crack or break when under heavy loads.

Great information

 

[RFutch]

View attachment 7803499

What do you have stuck to the inside of your barrel vise? I've been using small pieces of paper but its a PITA.

 

[Rob01]

I just put a little grease on it. Whatever is there.

 

[kthomas]

What do you have stuck to the inside of your barrel vise? I've been using small pieces of paper but its a PITA.

I use hockey tape. It's textured and has some grip to it, seems to work well for holding barrels in my cheap viper vice.

 

[308pirate]

What do you have stuck to the inside of your barrel vise? I've been using small pieces of paper but its a PITA.

Looks like roughout leather

 

[kthomas]

I use nickel-based anti-seize because barrels and receivers are often stainless steel.

Copper-based anti-seize can cause issues with stainless.

From Henkel/Loctite website:

However, it is important to remember that while many compounds exist for stainless steel, copper anti-seize on stainless steel will create inter-crystalline corrosion which can cause parts to crack or break when under heavy loads.

I doubt rifle barrels go under what would be considered "heavy loads" by Henkel/loctite.

The topic of lubing barrel threads seems to have a wide array of opinions based on my research. Even different gunsmiths have differing opinions on what to use, which leads me to believe that there is many correct answers.

But I'll tag in @Frank Green, @bohem @karagias and @LongRifles Inc. To see if there is a right and wrong way to do this.

 

[archangel485]

I'd reach out to ARC and ask them their suggestion. I did the same for my Zermatt actions and as a result use anti-seize compound.

 

[bohem]

I doubt rifle barrels go under what would be considered "heavy loads" by Henkel/loctite.

The topic of lubing barrel threads seems to have a wide array of opinions based on my research. Even different gunsmiths have differing opinions on what to use, which leads me to believe that there is many correct answers.

But I'll tag in @Frank Green, @bohem @karagias and @LongRifles Inc. To see if there is a right and wrong way to do this.

The loads aren't heavy based on installation torque but the dynamic loads generated during firing can be fairly high. It's hard to say from that information what Henkels determines as high load though because there are 1" bolts that will carry >100,000lb loads and there's nothing in a shouldered fired small arm that generates loads like that.

We use M1-A grease by LubriPlate purchased from Brownells for installing pretty much everything. Brakes, barrels, barrel nuts, scope ring screws, etc. Yes, scope ring screws do need lubrication in certain areas. We use it for ARC, Zermatt, Lone Peak, Impact, Curtis, etc actions. Anywhere stainless steel threads are involved gets a healthy dose of the stuff.

I've used both nickel and copper antizieze on barrels for my own rifles. I stopped using it on client rifles (and my own) because the tiniest little dab of that stuff in the wrong spot means you need to take apart the entire custom rifle and wash the darn thing off with solvent to clean the errant dab. It's probably what it would be like to give the Tin Man a handy...

 

[spife7980]

I bought a little thing of the copper antiseize because it looks cool and is all shiny but Ive also used normal auto grease just as much. Ive even put one together dry out of impatience, it worked fine and couldnt feel it grabbing at all but I wouldnt make a habit of it.

What do you have stuck to the inside of your barrel vise? I've been using small pieces of paper but its a PITA.

I just use my old business cards, pinch it around the barrel and then slide it in and it seems to stay folded around and slides fine, no longer in that position so I have 500 barrels to swap with old cards Easier than the toilet paper tubes I tried that were all too big until I tore them down and they suddenly became too small.

 

[Wannashootit]

I doubt rifle barrels go under what would be considered "heavy loads" by Henkel/loctite.

Prolly so.
But to that I say, why use copper- when there are other products available (including nickel) that don't contain it, negating any potential issues?

 

[kthomas]

Prolly so.
But to that I say, why use copper- when there are other products available (including nickel) that don't contain it, negating any potential issues?

There certainly may be better alternatives, I'm not an expert on this and I'm not going to pretend that it's the only/best solution for this application.

I know its worked for me for years, I haven't had issues and it seems to work for its intended purposes. I know many others use it as well. But there's many options out there, and perhaps nickel anti-seize and other options are in fact better for this specific application.

I've tagged in others that are much more knowledgeable than myself in this. I see @bohem has already responded, which I appreciate! I'm looking forward to hearing opinions and learning more about this topic. Perhaps I need to switch up what I'm using, or maybe when I empty this bottle I should try something different.

 

[archangel485]

The loads aren't heavy based on installation torque but the dynamic loads generated during firing can be fairly high. It's hard to say from that information what Henkels determines as high load though because there are 1" bolts that will carry >100,000lb loads and there's nothing in a shouldered fired small arm that generates loads like that.

We use M1-A grease by LubriPlate purchased from Brownells for installing pretty much everything. Brakes, barrels, barrel nuts, scope ring screws, etc. Yes, scope ring screws do need lubrication in certain areas. We use it for ARC, Zermatt, Lone Peak, Impact, Curtis, etc actions. Anywhere stainless steel threads are involved gets a healthy dose of the stuff.

I've used both nickel and copper antizieze on barrels for my own rifles. I stopped using it on client rifles (and my own) because the tiniest little dab of that stuff in the wrong spot means you need to take apart the entire custom rifle and wash the darn thing off with solvent to clean the errant dab. It's probably what it would be like to give the Tin Man a handy...

@bohem what would be the wrong spot that would require it to get cleaned out?

 

[rustyinbend]

I use nickel-based anti-seize because barrels and receivers are often stainless steel.

Copper-based anti-seize can cause issues with stainless.

From Henkel/Loctite website:

However, it is important to remember that while many compounds exist for stainless steel, copper anti-seize on stainless steel will create inter-crystalline corrosion which can cause parts to crack or break when under heavy loads.

Didn't know that ... thanks!

 

[archangel485]

I use hockey tape. It's textured and has some grip to it, seems to work well for holding barrels in my cheap viper vice.

I have a feeling I might need to learn something here, buy why put anything in the vise? Aluminum jaws so it should give before the steel in the barrel does, I was thinking nothing further was needed? Perhaps I've just been lucky to date but I use nothing in the jaws and haven't caused any damage to my barrels.

 

[rijndael]

I have a feeling I might need to learn something here, buy why put anything in the vise? Aluminum jaws so it should give before the steel in the barrel does, I was thinking nothing further was needed?

If it slips the barrel's finish will be marred. I've done it a few times.

 

[Hondo1]

I have a feeling I might need to learn something here, buy why put anything in the vise? Aluminum jaws so it should give before the steel in the barrel does, I was thinking nothing further was needed? Perhaps I've just been lucky to date but I use nothing in the jaws and haven't caused any damage to my barrels.

I was planning on using leather

 

[archangel485]

If it slips the barrel's finish will be marred. I've done it a few times.

I could see that, I make sure it's tight but maybe I'm taking an unnecessary risk.

 

[Josh1978]

Any time I open a can of Anti-seize that shit ends up everywhere, even after a shower it will end up in the bed sheets. Ha!
I think I’ll go with the grease option.

Yea somehow I manage to get that stuff all over and it doesn’t wash off easily. Lol

 

[Rob01]

Funny how only on the internet can we have a post arguing over to what boils down to basically screwing a bolt into a nut. Lol

 

[b6graham]

Funny how only on the internet can we have a post arguing over to what boils down to basically screwing a bolt into a nut. Lol

see: torque on ARC scope rings/mounts

 

[Hondo1]

When I first posted this I thought I’d get a simple conclusive answer. Nope!
It has brought up some great discussion though.

 

[spife7980]

When I first posted this I thought I’d get a simple conclusive answer. Nope!
I has brought up some great discussion though.

The simple conclusive answer is that it doesnt really matter. If it resists just dont fight it.

 

[rijndael]

When I first posted this I thought I’d get a simple conclusive answer.

You kind of got it though. We all have our own methods. Some might be better than others, but a lot of ways will get the job done.

 

[rustyinbend]

I have a feeling I might need to learn something here, buy why put anything in the vise? Aluminum jaws so it should give before the steel in the barrel does, I was thinking nothing further was needed? Perhaps I've just been lucky to date but I use nothing in the jaws and haven't caused any damage to my barrels.

This is what I use ... it's amazing. The leather insert is solid but can't scratch or damage. Great design ...

Mechforce Barrel Vise for Hunting Gun, Rifle, Gunsmithing, Benchrest, Clamp

Mechforce is an American designer and manufacturer of top quality military defense and consumer products, including firearm accessories, everyday carry tools and metal fidgeting toys.

mechforce-usa.com

 

[Hondo1]

What are everyone’s thoughts on torque?

 

[rijndael]

What are everyone’s thoughts on torque?

Gunsmithing - Torque spec for prefit shouldered barrel?

Is there a standard torque spec for a prefit shouldered barrel or should I just email the action manufacturer?

www.snipershide.com

 

[rustyinbend]

What are everyone’s thoughts on torque?

90 ft/lbs is what I've always used. It's what several barrel and action manufacturers recommend.

 

[spife7980]

What are everyone’s thoughts on torque?

Some get by with 30 and win. Some get by with 150 and win. I find that somewhere in the middle is where my arm and gut gives out so I go until I make a straining noise and it feels solid without shitting myself. Usually thats ends up around 80-90 when Ive take the torque wrench to it. You dont want it coming off too easy but you also dont want it staying on forever.

 

[kthomas]

What are everyone’s thoughts on torque?

The most important opinion on this is your specific gunsmith's.

I use between 75-100 ft-lbs.

 

[b6graham]

What are everyone’s thoughts on torque?

60-80

 

[archangel485]

What are everyone’s thoughts on torque?

Zermatt has the following printed right on their action wrench. 75-85 ft.lb. for standard, 100-120 ft.lb. for magnums.

 

[max1840]

90-100 regardless of standard or magnum calibers.

 

[Rob01]

I like the 720 inch pounds to 960 inch pounds area. Just to make it clear as mud.

 

[The D]

View attachment 7803499

This or Permatex silicone ceramic paste. I use it on a ton of car repair stuff

 

[Isaiah's Blacksmith]

I've uninstalled and installed a lot of prefits and I don't put anything on the threads. The only thing that gets tightened is the barrel nut and I just put a little weight on the barrel nut wrench with no gloves for torque. Putting shit on the threads is just going to get baked.

 

[gopherslayer]

 

[The D]

View attachment 7804508

Ask any mechanic about their love/hate relationship with anti-seize…