About to start my first somewhat involved project - taking a proof barrel off a savage 110 ultralight and putting it on an ARC coup de grace action. It’s a bit different because the savage take-off has a barrel nut instead of being a shouldered pre-fit. Here’s what I think I need to do. Any comments?
1. Put the savage barreled action into a Wheeler Action Wrench #2, clamped in a vice
2. Use a Wheeler Barrel Nut Wrench to remove the barrel nut
3. Unscrew the barrel (wondering how hard this will be, does savage lock-tite these in?)
4. Clean gunk off the threads and put some sort of anti-seize on there (recommendations?)
5. Remove the firing pin from the ARC bolt.
6. Loosely screw the savage barrel into the ARC action.
7. Put a go gauge in ARC chamber and close the bolt. Screw the barrel down until it bumps the go guage then back off a tiny bit. Check it with the no-go.
8. Once my headspace is good, put one end of the ARC action wrench in the action, and secure the other end in a vice.
9. Use the barrel nut wrench to torque the barrel nut down to 100 foot-lbs spec’d by ARC (not the 50 ft-lbs typical for savage)
10. Check again with the go and no-go gauges. If it clears, you’re good to go.
1. Put the savage barreled action into a Wheeler Action Wrench #2, clamped in a vice
2. Use a Wheeler Barrel Nut Wrench to remove the barrel nut
3. Unscrew the barrel (wondering how hard this will be, does savage lock-tite these in?)
4. Clean gunk off the threads and put some sort of anti-seize on there (recommendations?)
5. Remove the firing pin from the ARC bolt.
6. Loosely screw the savage barrel into the ARC action.
7. Put a go gauge in ARC chamber and close the bolt. Screw the barrel down until it bumps the go guage then back off a tiny bit. Check it with the no-go.
8. Once my headspace is good, put one end of the ARC action wrench in the action, and secure the other end in a vice.
9. Use the barrel nut wrench to torque the barrel nut down to 100 foot-lbs spec’d by ARC (not the 50 ft-lbs typical for savage)
10. Check again with the go and no-go gauges. If it clears, you’re good to go.