Recently purchased a Tikka T3x CTR rifle. Was planning on installing a yodave trigger. However, after removing the action from the stock, there is a screw I need to unscrew to get access to the trigger spring. I cannot remove the screw. Is it locktited? Has anyone else had this problem? Don't want to really torque it and damage something.
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Installing yodave trigger spring on Tikka
- Thread starter houndog
- Start date
Yes , its fitted with loctite. Make sure you use the correct tool its a metric gun.
its an cheap and easy upgrade and wel worth the money. Make sure u refit the rifle correctly against the recoillug. I would replace it if i was you for a stainlessteel one sinds you are improving the gun
have fun with that great rifle
gr collin
its an cheap and easy upgrade and wel worth the money. Make sure u refit the rifle correctly against the recoillug. I would replace it if i was you for a stainlessteel one sinds you are improving the gun
have fun with that great rifle
gr collin
I'll second the above. The Allen screw/bolt that has to be pulled in order to fully remove the trigger pull weight adjustment spring just takes a bit of oomph to break loose. Once that's done, installing the YoDave spring is about a 10 second task.
I've done the YoDave springs on two Tikkas and been very pleased with the result.
I've done the YoDave springs on two Tikkas and been very pleased with the result.
The T3X series already has a steel recoil lug. When you reseat the action into the stock, it can be tricky to line up the lug with the recess in the action. If you pull the lug out a bit, you can eyeball the lug seating as you lower the action and press the lug back down into the stock.
Looking to make the same upgrade to my CTR. Does anyone know the correct torque when re-installing the trigger mounting screw?
Thanks for the advice. I figured for $10 plus shipping the yodave spring was a worthwhile upgrade, although with a little adjustment I think I've got the stock spring down to about 2 pounds. (Estimate is by feel, haven't actually measured). Although I really like a light trigger I'm a little nervous about going down too much lower. And thanks for the advice about reinstalling the stock, not something I really noticed when I took stock off and put it back on. Still haven't shot the rifle yet - hopefully I will get out to the range next week.
Thanks for that....I was all set to purchase yodave for a CZ till I saw the shipping...No thanks!
I did buy the yodave, because even at $19 it is a cheap upgrade. Still, $10 for a tiny spring and then another $9 to ship it is a little outrageous. I have no problem with an entrepreneur making a decent profit, but for them to make what I suspect is a hefty profit on the spring, and to then stick it to us on the shipping is a little bit much.
On the other hand upgrading my the triggers on my AR's cost $100-300 a pop and upgrading the trigger on my Tavor was a couple of hundred dollars, so I guess in the scheme of things I got off cheap.
On the other hand upgrading my the triggers on my AR's cost $100-300 a pop and upgrading the trigger on my Tavor was a couple of hundred dollars, so I guess in the scheme of things I got off cheap.
It's not 10 bucks for the spring, it's 10 bucks because you don't have to go digging around for one that actually fits right, not too big not too small and snipping coils off to get the feel right and then having to a find a second because you snipped one too many off.
He ships the spring via airmail from Canada. Without checking the going rates for air international I'm willing to bet he's not making a killing off of it or fleecing his base. But if you happen to check and find otherwise feel free to prove me wrong...
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i use a Borka to torque the action screws to 43 in lb. got this off the tikka performance website.
The reason for the high shipping has something to do with Canadian export. I "got around" this with the Yodave CZ-455 trigger kits by ordering more than one - same shipping price for multiples; sold "extra" kits to friends for Yodave's price plus the share of shipping. Very pleased with product... so now contemplating the same approach for Yodave spring for a Tikka T3x Varmint which won't adjust lower than 2.5 pounds.
I don't know about the yodave first hand (lots of positive reviews), but I can say without a doubt, the hardware store Ace #144 spring and the fastenal #162A (pretty sure it is the A) are perfect for the CZ 455. I found a local place that sells the #144 which is convenient. However, the spring that I got from fastenal has a nicer finish on the end where the wire is cut. It is cleaned (no burr) and it is finished in black something or another.
I did the Ace #144 spring before I got the Yodave kit. The Ace spring lightened the pull weight but did not address the creep. CZ-45x triggers vary significantly from one rifle to the next; mine was worse in terms of pull weight and amount of creep than my son's, and his was a bit worse than the one owned by one of my buddies. The Yodave kit, with four springs and four shims, can address this disparity. In fact, I was able to tune my son's 455 trigger with a "leftover" shim/spring combination from my kit because our triggers were so different from the factory.
Also on small loctited screws you can use a soldering iron tip to heat inside the head to break the loctite bond. Or you can heat a finishing nail with a lighter, not red hot just good and warm, and that might help.
Thanks. I temporarily gave up and went ahead with mounting the new Bifrost stock. But first, I backed out the factory spring preload to the max and honestly, it is pretty light. I will probably take it back out and heat it up again but probably with a torch this time.
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Someone in another thread posted about using an AR15 bolt catch spring. I just did it and it's awesome. With the YoDave, if I adjusted it to under 1.5lbs, the trigger would have 0 spring pressure on it so sometimes the trigger would "depress" while racking the bolt. With the AR spring, I have it set at 1lb and it doesn't have the same problem.
It's also an $.80 spring I didn't have to pay $12 to ship.
I got a heat gun today so I wouldn’t discolor anything. Put about 6minutes worth of the 600* setting and thought I’d still break the Allen key. Put another 1.5 minutes of the 1000* setting and with a cheater bar it broke free. Elay spring is now installed, not that the trigger really needed improving. It’s noticeably lighter and the factory spring had been set at its lightest. Now it’s set at about 50% of travel. Sorry about the empty reply above - didn't realize I had shot a blank and I don't see a way to delete it.
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Everything I've seen has been 55 to 65 in/lbs.
KRG also says the same for the Midas.....
I have an Elay precision spring I won’t be using, giving away for free if someone wishes to PM me. Was tired of waiting for it to ship, I ordered a Mountain Tactical spring instead.
Pretty sure it’s all the same Bic pen spring, neatly packaged for profit.
My Tac A1’s lowest adjustment went down to 10 oz, I moved it back to a comfortable 14 oz.
Pretty sure it’s all the same Bic pen spring, neatly packaged for profit.
My Tac A1’s lowest adjustment went down to 10 oz, I moved it back to a comfortable 14 oz.
I need some help here. This regards the install of a Yodave trigger spring. The T1X is from early 2019. After cleaning it up originally, I shot it and felt the trigger was in the 2# range which was satisfactory. Sometime later I decided to lighten it without removing the stock. Using the port in the floor plate I reduced it to about 1.5#. Turning the adjustment screw further got me to about 1.25# but there was significant resistance. I removed the barreled action and could see the trigger weight screw was abutted against the screw holding the trigger group to the action. It appeared that I had ground off one to two threads on the trigger adjustment screw.
So the question is do I continue to back the weight screw out while destroying or at least burnishing the threads or am I simply going at this in the wrong manner? What have you gotten yours down to? If it's in the one pound area I'm going to put it back together. If it's the suggested 12ozs. I'll keep going.
So the question is do I continue to back the weight screw out while destroying or at least burnishing the threads or am I simply going at this in the wrong manner? What have you gotten yours down to? If it's in the one pound area I'm going to put it back together. If it's the suggested 12ozs. I'll keep going.
Installed a YoDave trigger spring on my Tikka Tac A1. Before the install I had a nice 2.5# trigger pull. After installing the YoDave it pulled a consistent 1.5#. I run a TT diamond 2 stage in another rifle at 8 oz. and this feels pretty good. I put a yodave spring in my cz457 it now pulls a little under a pound
Read what you have written one more time, out loud, think about what you are saying, man up!!!
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