then there should be no reason for the new parts to not fit the old ones. Any changes are made are for other reasons than to continue the J Allen line.
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Interest in a more vertical grip for J allen?
- Thread starter Baron23
- Start date
I hope they continue to do good work. If folks want a more vertical grip, then make it. I applaud them for continuing the line, it's a good chassis from what I've seen.
@Steel head - you aren’t referring to new MDT chassis (whenever they release it) but rather the OG Jae-700 and JAE-100, right?
my understanding is that they are virtually identical except for the in letting but Agee we would need to hear from somebody who has owned/handled both.
Is that swell going to be on both sides. As a lefty I'm going this isn't just a right handed grip
After getting this on I have a few thoughts:
1) thumb rest feels good
2) I need a bolt at the front to draw the two halves flush
3) I don’t think a palm shelf is necessary, and with this method of manufacture, will be costly.
3.5) this is an expensive print just with the two halves. I will have to see if I can sell at $100. I’m pretty certain just paying someone to print these parts would cost well over $100 minus all the hours of design time, etc. will follow up on this
What do you guys think? I would personally like to forego the palm shelf, add a bolt to clamp the halves together, and call it good. If a palm shelf is necessary I’m guessing this would be a roughly $50 option
Oh and yes, it is lefty friendly and I printed left handed thumb rests as well
I was on the palm shelf side of it to start since I like the factory one. That said seeing it in the gun I personally don't see the need for one with this design. A cross bolt to draw them together seems perfectly reasonable and an effective solution. I look forward to being able to purchase one of these with a lefty thumbstop as soon as they are avaliable.
Ps. Thank you for taking the time to do this..this has been the one complaint many of us have had about the Jae
Ps. Thank you for taking the time to do this..this has been the one complaint many of us have had about the Jae
@Tyler Kemp - just one guy's thoughts
First, looks really nice and I'm personally very happy with that random texture.
1) thumb rest feels good
Outstanding.....and I can sort of see how the chassis thumb rest may not be as accessible with this new hand position. All good to me
2) I need a bolt at the front to draw the two halves flush
Yeah, so....lower front or? I can see the gap you are looking to address. I assume that this bolt will be in the grip material only and forward of the chassis underlying metal grip structure, right? If so, I don't see a problem except to suggest that this bolt/nut be included in the kit.
3) I don’t think a palm shelf is necessary, and with this method of manufacture, will be costly.
Necessary? Eh, maybe not necessary but a number of folks like them and frankly to my mind the bottom of the the chassis grip with the captive fasteners for the palm shelf always looks unfinished to me with out the shelf. I'm assuming that the bottom of the chassis's grip where the palm shelf attachments are located is still open and accessible with this new grip? If so, perhaps then do as J Allen did and offer them as an option...which is seems most buyers took them up on.
Or, perhaps just offer a cap to cover the bottom of the grip. With my smallish hands, I personally don't find any functional value in the shelf...but it does finish that part of the chassis so perhaps just a cover of some sort that matches up with the chassis's bolt holes down there????
May I assume that the stock palm shelf will not longer mount to the chassis with the new printed grip installed....or can it still be attached?
In any and all cases, this is not a show stopper for me
3.5) this is an expensive print just with the two halves. I will have to see if I can sell at $100. I’m pretty certain just paying someone to print these parts would cost well over $100 minus all the hours of design time, etc. will follow up on this
I'm not a wealthy man nor do I take liberties with the finances of others.....but these chassis went for as much as $2K or more with options so I would guess that most owners would be like myself and view the cost of a proper fitting grip to be a minor expense in comparison. Not to even speak of all of the other stuff we spend on these guns! haha
What do you guys think? I would personally like to forego the palm shelf, add a bolt to clamp the halves together, and call it good. If a palm shelf is necessary I’m guessing this would be a roughly $50 option
My view is add the bolt for strength/clean appearance, call it good for now and name a price/availability/available colors, and offer the palm swell as an option at a later date...maybe? But I'm guessing you would want to keep the chassis for a bit more if a palm shelf is to be designed or is the design already done?
Looking forward to getting a set of grips and taking it to the range and giving it a go.
Cheers
First, looks really nice and I'm personally very happy with that random texture.
1) thumb rest feels good
Outstanding.....and I can sort of see how the chassis thumb rest may not be as accessible with this new hand position. All good to me
2) I need a bolt at the front to draw the two halves flush
Yeah, so....lower front or? I can see the gap you are looking to address. I assume that this bolt will be in the grip material only and forward of the chassis underlying metal grip structure, right? If so, I don't see a problem except to suggest that this bolt/nut be included in the kit.
3) I don’t think a palm shelf is necessary, and with this method of manufacture, will be costly.
Necessary? Eh, maybe not necessary but a number of folks like them and frankly to my mind the bottom of the the chassis grip with the captive fasteners for the palm shelf always looks unfinished to me with out the shelf. I'm assuming that the bottom of the chassis's grip where the palm shelf attachments are located is still open and accessible with this new grip? If so, perhaps then do as J Allen did and offer them as an option...which is seems most buyers took them up on.
Or, perhaps just offer a cap to cover the bottom of the grip. With my smallish hands, I personally don't find any functional value in the shelf...but it does finish that part of the chassis so perhaps just a cover of some sort that matches up with the chassis's bolt holes down there????
May I assume that the stock palm shelf will not longer mount to the chassis with the new printed grip installed....or can it still be attached?
In any and all cases, this is not a show stopper for me
3.5) this is an expensive print just with the two halves. I will have to see if I can sell at $100. I’m pretty certain just paying someone to print these parts would cost well over $100 minus all the hours of design time, etc. will follow up on this
I'm not a wealthy man nor do I take liberties with the finances of others.....but these chassis went for as much as $2K or more with options so I would guess that most owners would be like myself and view the cost of a proper fitting grip to be a minor expense in comparison. Not to even speak of all of the other stuff we spend on these guns! haha
What do you guys think? I would personally like to forego the palm shelf, add a bolt to clamp the halves together, and call it good. If a palm shelf is necessary I’m guessing this would be a roughly $50 option
My view is add the bolt for strength/clean appearance, call it good for now and name a price/availability/available colors, and offer the palm swell as an option at a later date...maybe? But I'm guessing you would want to keep the chassis for a bit more if a palm shelf is to be designed or is the design already done?
Looking forward to getting a set of grips and taking it to the range and giving it a go.
Cheers
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Just so you guys know I'm not crazy, my cheapest competitor would charge nearly $200 just for the grip panels.
This may be a $150 part, sad to say. I certainly want to bring it to market with the amount of hours in this project.
This may be a $150 part, sad to say. I certainly want to bring it to market with the amount of hours in this project.
To echo @Baron23 i am not a super wealthy man but 150 isn't a deal breaker to me. This is essentially a custom piece that you've designed with a finite market and as such costs will be higher. The grip is one of the most important parts of the chassis since it's one of our primary interface points. I can't speak for others but I know I don't feel like you are trying to gouge us or anything if that's a thought you're having. I'm personally a fan of the texture pattern you have chosen.
I'm curious what the bottom of the grip area looks like a it shots in that picture
Cheap for twice the price, GI! haha
Just another thought that was brought up above but you have....maybe/maybe not noticed?
Does the design of the grip still allow access to the rear action screw thru the cut out for this in the trigger guard?
Hard to see if it does/does not. It would not be the end of life as we know it to have to take the grips off to get to that action screw, but that would fall into the PIA category and if a slot for an hex wrench needs to be provided to get in there, perhaps consider that.
I can notch it out if needbe. Hadn't even thought about that.
The bottom of this grip has a slot for a palm shelf. However, this slot will need to be changed to allow a palm shelf and another bolt to draw the halves flush.
Or, the slot can go away completely and just be flat on the bottom.
Please do consider this.....if feasible and it doesn't compromise the design integrity in any way....it would very helpful to not have to pull the grip off to get to the rear action screw.
I'm not sure I understand about this slot and what you mean by just flat on the bottom.
If by flat on the bottom, you mean below the grip the metal of the chassis with the palm shelf captive fastners is still visible then I again offer my view that this just makes the chassis look unfinished and no bueno.
And if you look at J Allen chassis pics you will find very few where the buyer did not go for the palm shelf option.
Again, I personally would be fine with just a flat cover or cap for the bottom of the grip (which I'm guessing means you need to revise the "slot") without the contour and thickness of the palm shelf.
I would also be fine with a palm shelf at an additional cost
My least preference by a good bit would be nothing on the bottom of the grip and the metal of the chassis and palm shelf screw holes exposed.
Would love for some others to express their views also......
Here is the bottom side, sorry for the delay! You can see the need to draw the front in without any hard bolting points there. Without a palm shelf that will be easier to do without wonkiness
@Tyler Kemp
Hi Tyler - wow, a couple of things I didn't expect but I'm not sure if they are an issue to me or not.
It appears that in addition to taking off the OG soft grip, you have also removed the metal piece that sealed off the bottom of the grip and to which the OG palm shelf attached. This piece, yeah?
And you extended the grip further down to the approx the level that would be the bottom of the OG palm shelf, right?
I hadn't anticipated removing anything more than the OG soft grip and shelf.
I have another JAE chassis here in pristine condition and while it would be no big deal to pull this section of it apart and see, its like new and I'd rather not start disassembling it.
So, I'll ask you...do you feel absolutely confident that this bottom metal piece is not structural at all. I ask because even for chassis ordered without a palm shelf, they always shipped with that part included.
Or is it off just for this pic because it sort of kind of looks like that bottom metal plate might still fit in there???
And this gap (see pic below) is the? Is there a reason that it needs to be that open or will that bottom metal piece actually stay on and close this up a good bit?
I have no issue per se with no palm shelf and having the bottom closed up as you show. Others may feel differently.
But I'm still not sure how I feel about removing that bottom metal grip part...and I'm even not sure if it really is intended to be removed or was just off for purposes in the shop and pics.
Also, its not visible from the angles you show, but will we have access to the slot in the rear of the trigger guard that accommodates a hex wrench for the rear action screw?
Finally, can you please post a pic of a side view showing the front strap of the grip and clearance from the trigger guard. My concern has always been with too vertical of a front strap that there would not be room to accomodate your gripping fingers (really, your middle finger) between the grip and the back of the trigger guard.
Thanks and I look forward to your replies and I'm really looking forward to getting one on my gun and giving it a whirl.
Hi Tyler - wow, a couple of things I didn't expect but I'm not sure if they are an issue to me or not.
It appears that in addition to taking off the OG soft grip, you have also removed the metal piece that sealed off the bottom of the grip and to which the OG palm shelf attached. This piece, yeah?
And you extended the grip further down to the approx the level that would be the bottom of the OG palm shelf, right?
I hadn't anticipated removing anything more than the OG soft grip and shelf.
I have another JAE chassis here in pristine condition and while it would be no big deal to pull this section of it apart and see, its like new and I'd rather not start disassembling it.
So, I'll ask you...do you feel absolutely confident that this bottom metal piece is not structural at all. I ask because even for chassis ordered without a palm shelf, they always shipped with that part included.
Or is it off just for this pic because it sort of kind of looks like that bottom metal plate might still fit in there???
And this gap (see pic below) is the? Is there a reason that it needs to be that open or will that bottom metal piece actually stay on and close this up a good bit?
I have no issue per se with no palm shelf and having the bottom closed up as you show. Others may feel differently.
But I'm still not sure how I feel about removing that bottom metal grip part...and I'm even not sure if it really is intended to be removed or was just off for purposes in the shop and pics.
Also, its not visible from the angles you show, but will we have access to the slot in the rear of the trigger guard that accommodates a hex wrench for the rear action screw?
Finally, can you please post a pic of a side view showing the front strap of the grip and clearance from the trigger guard. My concern has always been with too vertical of a front strap that there would not be room to accomodate your gripping fingers (really, your middle finger) between the grip and the back of the trigger guard.
Thanks and I look forward to your replies and I'm really looking forward to getting one on my gun and giving it a whirl.
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Just out of curiosity how high up are you gripping. My ideal grip on this and other verticals puts my middle finger right where the rear angle of the trigger guard is but I also have stubby little sausage fingers
I have pretty dang small hands....and anybody with any larger size hands may well have a bit of an issue. Hell, its looking like it may be an issue for me for that matter.
The width of my small hand takes up the entire height of the basic grip (that is, not including the palm shelf). I note, that J Allen even made palm shelf spacers to provide more vertical room on the front strap for larger hands. That OG grip without the palm shelf is not that tall, IMO (note, palm shelf provides about 1/2" more vertical to the grip before it flares out into the shelf).
When I grip the chassis, my middle finger is directly behind the very top rear of the trigger guard. If any of that space was taken by this new grip, that would pinch that area off and force me to move my hand lower while keeping my trigger finger at the same level and, I believe, negate to some extent any advantage the new grip provide me.
You can see this illustrated below. If the blue dashed line is the fall line of the new front strap, this will eat up territory occupied by my middle finger (red two sided arrow) with the OG grip. This was always my concern about bringing the start of fall of the front strap forward all the ways to the very front of the current grip.
I had always thought the thing to do was to drop down vertical from the current top of the front strap and that this would bring my last two fingers forward as well as orient my hand/trigger finger properly for a more naturally straight back press.
I may well be wrong and flinching at shadows and ghosts, but I would like Tyler to address this concern insofar as the pic he showed a bit further above seems to show that space now taken by the new grip and that's a bit of a concern to me.
I see what you are concerned about. The kids if trying to design something for all of us being different. For me coming straight off the back of the trigger guard, which as best I can tell in Tyler's pics is what it does, would work perfectly for my grip but for you not so much. I would agree that for a universal grip coming down from the current drop or maybe something even halfway like right behind the rear action screw.
As far as the bottom plate he removed from what I could tell when I had mine off it doesn't look to be structural other then to support and allow the bottom of the oem grip/bottom/palm shelf/spacer to work and attatch to the actual backbone of the chassis. I know when they were sent to get painted from Jae to custom gun coatings all of that stuff was never installed.
I'm not at home with mine currently but basically where you're red line is would be the top of my middle finger. So essentially half a finger down here is an example that you can see whew my finger sits in relation to the trigger guard on my tcs (ignore how ugly it is, was experimenting with molding grips).
Thanks. I guess o wonder if your hand is tat much wider than mine or ???
mid I dropped my hand lower so that my middle finger clears the bottom of the trigger guard I would have the lower part of my hand hanging off of the bottom of the grip and my trigger press would be bac and downward when I really want to keep my finger and direction of press absolutely parallel to the centerline of the chassis.
Very possible that I have wide palms. I don't know how well you can tell but my molded grip extends past the bottom of the factory grip ~1/4" and that's where my pinky sits. Here's a pic from a match a couple weeks ago showing how my hand sits on that grip. That angle allows me to get a straight 90 and straight press back
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Your hand only fits the way it does, BECAUSE the grip isn’t vertical. To keep your middle finger where it is, and make the grip vertical, you’ll be crossing your index finger over your middle finger to get to the trigger. Your whole hand needs to pivot about the base of you index finger. That drops your middle finger under the trigger guard by default.
@Dustyplyr - yes, we do have different size hands and it appears that with your middle finger under the trigger guard, your trigger finger is still at the right place for a straight back press. I do not believe that is the case with me at all. Yes, perhaps bringing it down more vertically from the existing top point of the front strap or, as you said, some sort of compromise. But, without better pics its hard to tell but at the present it appears to me that the front strap butts right up to the trigger guard and I personally don't think that's very bueno.
1. We don't know that the removable bottom metal of the grip into which the palm shelf is bolted can stay on the chassis with Tyler's design. In the one pic I have seen of this area, its not installed
2. Even if that piece is retained on the chassis when the new grip is installed, you can't get to it with the current design. Note the closed bottom of the new grip and the extensions downward along the outside of the bottom. No way to bolt on the palm shelf unless the design of the bottom is significantly redone.
3. Even if all of that was solved, with the front strap moved so far forward the palm shelf would be overshadowed by the grip... actually be buried quite far underneath the grip, I believe.
Its very hard for me to tell how things are going to exactly be from pics. It all might be fine as is....to a good extent, I feel I have to rely on Tyler's expertise to come up with a workable solution and then prototype (s) need to get out and feedback given, IMO.
Well, I don't really see it that way. See below. Yes, as my hand rotates from that angle to be far more vertical it might force my hand down just a little bit to get that knuckle of my middle finger to clear the trigger guard but certainly not to the extent needed if the front strap butts up to the rear of the trigger guard as it kind of appears to me to be from the pics...but hard to tell.
Might be a couple of issues with this.
1. We don't know that the removable bottom metal of the grip into which the palm shelf is bolted can stay on the chassis with Tyler's design. In the one pic I have seen of this area, its not installed
2. Even if that piece is retained on the chassis when the new grip is installed, you can't get to it with the current design. Note the closed bottom of the new grip and the extensions downward along the outside of the bottom. No way to bolt on the palm shelf unless the design of the bottom is significantly redone.
3. Even if all of that was solved, with the front strap moved so far forward the palm shelf would be overshadowed by the grip... actually be buried quite far underneath the grip, I believe.
Its very hard for me to tell how things are going to exactly be from pics. It all might be fine as is....to a good extent, I feel I have to rely on Tyler's expertise to come up with a workable solution and then prototype (s) need to get out and feedback given, IMO.
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@Tyler Kemp - yo Tyler.....good bit of great back and forth above and while great, it may make it a bit harder for you to see exactly what my comments/questions are so I've consolidated and summarized a bit below.
1. It appears that in addition to taking off the OG soft grip, you have also removed the metal piece that sealed off the bottom of the grip and to which the OG palm shelf attached. The piece shown below, yeah?
2. Will we retain access to the slot in the rear of the trigger guard that accommodates a hex wrench for the rear action screw?
3. In addition to making it more vertical, did you also move the front strap forward to the extent that there would not be room to accommodate your middle finger between the grip and the back of the trigger guard? Personally I believe that this would be an issue for people with small hands (kind of reason we are doing this?) but I do understand that others disagree as to whether this is an issue
Finally, all of this is based on just pictures while you have my chassis and the new grip in hand so you have a much better understanding of the current state of the design and its suitability At some point (like now haha) I feel I just need to trust you to come up with the best design you can and then issue a prototype or first article for field eval. Then any comments/suggestions will be more credible.
Cheers
1. It appears that in addition to taking off the OG soft grip, you have also removed the metal piece that sealed off the bottom of the grip and to which the OG palm shelf attached. The piece shown below, yeah?
- Is that so and, if so, is this required for some reason and what that may be?
- And the gap/hole shown below, this will be the final config or?
2. Will we retain access to the slot in the rear of the trigger guard that accommodates a hex wrench for the rear action screw?
3. In addition to making it more vertical, did you also move the front strap forward to the extent that there would not be room to accommodate your middle finger between the grip and the back of the trigger guard? Personally I believe that this would be an issue for people with small hands (kind of reason we are doing this?) but I do understand that others disagree as to whether this is an issue
Finally, all of this is based on just pictures while you have my chassis and the new grip in hand so you have a much better understanding of the current state of the design and its suitability At some point (like now haha) I feel I just need to trust you to come up with the best design you can and then issue a prototype or first article for field eval. Then any comments/suggestions will be more credible.
Cheers
Your hand doesn’t work like that. Your wrist pivots around the base of your index finger. Everything forward of your wrist rotates down.
Have you held a gun with a 90° grip?
Far be it from me to tell you how to shoot, but your finger is too high on the shoe there anyway.
The palm shelf can no longer screw into the chassis. It would too far behind the grip. It needs to screw into the new grip. Everything else is moot.
You may well be right...let's just see what Tyler comes back with. If he says its imminently grippable (yeah, that's not really a word haha), then I'll just see when the first unit comes out and determine if it works for me.
It is a bit of an interesting topic.
Here is an MDT chassis with AR style grips and clearly no clearance between top of grip and rear of trigger guard
And here is an MDT chassis that does provide clearance in this area for your middle finger.
Cheers
He sure does! Thanks!
Hard to tell but in this pic it looks like the grip comes down further than OG grip even including the palm shelf....but this may well just be an artifact of the picture and the angle at which it was taken.
And yes, he's brought the front strap right up to the trigger guard. From this angle, my concerns are alleviated to some degree. It appears that I will have to move my hand down....but looks like just a small amount and may well be fine.
TBH, and after being the one making a stink about it, the position driven by the new grip may well be just fine...and probably an improvement. I note that in the pic above showing my grip, that this showing my trigger finger being actually higher than when actually shooting. Functions of holding the chassis and trying to take a picture at the same time. I don't want my trigger finger that high and I actually work to get my trigger finger lower....middle of the TT flat shoe....with the existing grip. So, This is probably all good and I seem to be the only one who got up in the air about it.
So as I said, I'm dropping this topic and will just wait to see what Tyler comes up with as a first article for field eval. It was more of a concern to me than a change request.
When I put one on a gun and try to shoot with it, then I will know if I have an issue.
Thanks again.
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@Tyler Kemp
So I took my JAE based rifle to the range today and made a concerted effort to see the position of my hand with a more vertical position and if the grip came well forward toward the trigger guard.
Well, I was wrong and @Tokay444 was right (oh, what a surprise! haha). When I started to argue with him, a little voice in the back of my head kept saying "shut up , he knows a 100 times than you do".....which I of course completely ignored. I may have gotten older, but apparently I have not gotten any more wise.
It appears that the grip config Tyler showed will work quite well even with my small hand and I withdraw any comment on clearance between grip and the trigger guard.
So, Tyler....its getting warm out in Maryland, shooting weather is upon us, I need a new grip on my chassis haha (are we there yet, are we there yet, are we there yet LOL).
Cheers guys.
So I took my JAE based rifle to the range today and made a concerted effort to see the position of my hand with a more vertical position and if the grip came well forward toward the trigger guard.
Well, I was wrong and @Tokay444 was right (oh, what a surprise! haha). When I started to argue with him, a little voice in the back of my head kept saying "shut up , he knows a 100 times than you do".....which I of course completely ignored. I may have gotten older, but apparently I have not gotten any more wise.
It appears that the grip config Tyler showed will work quite well even with my small hand and I withdraw any comment on clearance between grip and the trigger guard.
So, Tyler....its getting warm out in Maryland, shooting weather is upon us, I need a new grip on my chassis haha (are we there yet, are we there yet, are we there yet LOL).
Cheers guys.
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Thanks, my friend. Very gracious of you. But contempt before investigation is indeed a character weakness of mine! haha
TBH, I really won't know for 100% certain until I have it in my hands, but it appears that by dropping my hand down just a bit and being vertical, I will indeed have a better parallel (as in straight back) trigger pull and actually have my finger be at a better spot on the flat TT Diamond trigger shoe.
Now, we just need to get them in our hands, right?
Have a great rest of the day.
Cheers
@Tyler Kemp - Hi Tyler....any updates on the grip development and in particular some of the comments provided above?
I swear I saw a post from you where you said you gave this thread to your designer to look over and eval comments but I'll be danged if I can find it.
Maybe I dreamed it?
So, a little gentle ping for status update.
Thanks
I swear I saw a post from you where you said you gave this thread to your designer to look over and eval comments but I'll be danged if I can find it.
Maybe I dreamed it?
So, a little gentle ping for status update.
Thanks
Hello folks! Busy as usual, but tell me what you think of this. Little refinement in shape, particularly at the rear, and also found a good way I believe to have a small optional palm shelf without adding a bunch of bulk or wasted space.
And of course, the rear action screw will not be forgotten!
And of course, the rear action screw will not be forgotten!
OUTSTANDING !!!
I particularly like the new contour of the rear of the grip.
also really like the small optional palm shelf and bet most will order with....but I’m often wrong. LOL
I see what looks like a new part to seal the hole at the back of the grip where the OG metal plate was. Am I seeing this right, Tyler?
also, look like you brought the top of the front strap forward a bit w a small extension where I’m guessing you provided access to the rear action screw, right?
now the question is when can I get a first article to try out!! LOL. Yes, I’m constantly a demanding PIA! Haha
Correct, no more hole at the back and this mini palm shelf is "clamped" in place by the two pieces and does not slide in, it must be in place before installing the grip.
Wanted to make sure things looked swell before diving deep in, but should have a tester done over the weekend I'm guessing. It is a full 24 hours from printing this to being able to touch it, so weekends work best for bigger parts.
Wanted to make sure things looked swell before diving deep in, but should have a tester done over the weekend I'm guessing. It is a full 24 hours from printing this to being able to touch it, so weekends work best for bigger parts.
Most likely just black. The grey will slowly stain as its the natural color.
you can cerakote at 200f all day long.
Hello folks, want your final input on this as I think it's almost wrapped up.
Stock plate on the bottom won't quite fit as is, but we can modify that.
There is room to reach the action screw but I'm going to snug things up around the action screw to be flush with the trigger guard, and make it fill up the stock grip spot.
Little palm shelf is useless for my smedium hand size, but I suppose it will work well with big paws.
Thoughts as we finish this?
Stock plate on the bottom won't quite fit as is, but we can modify that.
There is room to reach the action screw but I'm going to snug things up around the action screw to be flush with the trigger guard, and make it fill up the stock grip spot.
Little palm shelf is useless for my smedium hand size, but I suppose it will work well with big paws.
Thoughts as we finish this?
