Is my Mausingfield ever going to "break in"?

[WeiserBucks]

My cerakoted Mausingfield is very gummy feeling in the last inch or so when moving the bolt near the open position. I've cycled it a couple hundred times and it doesn't seem to be getting any smoother.

Does it need a shit load more cycles to smooth out or is this just a part of owning a Mausingfield?

 

[CMP70306]

How old is the action and who did the cerakote?

 

[lash]

Shouldn’t you be asking ARC this question?

For what it’s worth, 100 cycles of a dry action won’t do shit. Go shoot the damn thing and stop fingering it. You’ll get it all messy.

 

[Hennig]

My cerakoted Mausingfield is the slickest action I own - give it time.

 

[Steel head]

You just have to wear in the cerakote.
Some one shot gun lube may work wonders.

 

[WeiserBucks]

Shouldn’t you be asking ARC this question?

For what it’s worth, 100 cycles of a dry action won’t do shit. Go shoot the damn thing and stop fingering it. You’ll get it all messy.

I've been shooting it, sometimes when pulling the bolt to the rear it binds up before it'll eject the brass. It's a 2020 M7 and it's got about 100 rounds on it now.

 

[WeiserBucks]

You just have to wear in the cerakote.
Some one shot gun lube may work wonders.

I've tried a few different lubes and they all just attract dust and makes it worse.

 

[Steel head]

I've tried a few different lubes and they all just attract dust and makes it worse.

It’s a dry lube

 

[WeiserBucks]

I'll try it out.

 

[supercorndogs]

Let the dust work in there and lap out what ever clearance issue you are having with the cerakote.

 

[Steel head]

Let the dust work in there and lap out what ever clearance issue you are having with the cerakote.

That’s the other approach

 

[KnowNothing256]

And if it’s binding just prior to ejection, run the bolt significantly harder. If you break the bolt stop then either tone it down or there’s a design flaw, but the M7 design had a bolt stop improvement included for “durability and functionality.”

Basically, don’t be afraid of being rude to the bolt stop, hit it with a good bit of speed and it’ll wear in that much faster.

 

[WeiserBucks]

And if it’s binding just prior to ejection, run the bolt significantly harder. If you break the bolt stop then either tone it down or there’s a design flaw, but the M7 design had a bolt stop improvement included for “durability and functionality.”

Basically, don’t be afraid of being rude to the bolt stop, hit it with a good bit of speed and it’ll wear in that much faster.

This makes sense, but it often binds and comes to a complete stop well before hitting the bolt stop. Not every time, but pretty often.

 

[KnowNothing256]

This makes sense, but it often binds and comes to a complete stop well before hitting the bolt stop. Not every time, but pretty often.

That’s what I’m saying, give it the business, slam through whatever that hang up is. Might just be a very small high spot that’ll chip/wear right off, but you almost certainly won’t break anything. If you do, it’s easy to replace and I expect they’ll send it to you for free if you explain what’s going on.

 

[kindabitey]

Sounds like a significant amount of overspray got in the front part of the receiver. Go shoot the bejeezus out of it. And don’t be nice about it. Run the bolt like it owes you money.

 

[leftyk82]

How old is the action and who did the cerakote?

OP, this was asked because the early M5's came in the white and certain shops were not applying cerakote correctly which caused some binding; particularly in those lighter shades.

Since yours is a M7 which was already nitrided, I'd suspect overspray especially when considering that whatever color you chose had to be sprayed over the black nitride.

Not implying your smith/coater doesn't know what they are doing, just that similar cases predate your finding.

 

[WeiserBucks]

OP, this was asked because the early M5's came in the white and certain shops were not applying cerakote correctly which caused some binding; particularly in those lighter shades.

Since yours is a M7 which was already nitrided, I'd suspect overspray especially when considering that whatever color you chose had to be sprayed over the black nitride.

Not implying your smith/coater doesn't know what they are doing, just that similar cases predate your finding.

I hear you. I've had other actions cerakoted and they sucked. This one was done by one of the best in the business and it sucks. I think I'm done with cerakote at this point because it seems like it doesn't matter who applies it, it sucks.

My factory Tikka actions are way smoother than my big dollar coated customs and I'm over it at this point.

 

[lash]

I hear you. I've had other actions cerakoted and they sucked. This one was done by one of the best in the business and it sucks. I think I'm done with cerakote at this point because it seems like it doesn't matter who applies it, it sucks.

My factory Tikka actions are way smoother than my big dollar coated customs and I'm over it at this point.

I can understand your frustration and cannot blame you for feeling the way you do. However, do yourself a favor first and take some polishing paste to the inside of your action. Use a good light so that you can see where the overspray is and then polish that area carefully. You can even carefully place some polishing paste on the rear of the bolt, not allowing it to get inside the bolt, and work the bolt that way. Point is, the ceracoat has created a fit that’s too tight. The mausingfield actions have tight tolerances to start with and the coating inside the action is what’s binding it. Remove that carefully and that action will be slick as snot.

Of course shooting it a lot also will do this, just not as fast.

 

[kthomas]

I hear you. I've had other actions cerakoted and they sucked. This one was done by one of the best in the business and it sucks. I think I'm done with cerakote at this point because it seems like it doesn't matter who applies it, it sucks.

My factory Tikka actions are way smoother than my big dollar coated customs and I'm over it at this point.

Yeah I don't know why people continue to cerakote rifles in this day and age...

 

[acudaowner]

open close repeat again and again till you go to be then start fresh the next day in a few months after your arm feels like it's going to fall of it might be ready or you could just take it out and shoot it till it's smooth .

 

[Supersubes]

I hear you. I've had other actions cerakoted and they sucked. This one was done by one of the best in the business and it sucks. I think I'm done with cerakote at this point because it seems like it doesn't matter who applies it, it sucks.

My factory Tikka actions are way smoother than my big dollar coated customs and I'm over it at this point.

I agree. For personal and customer builds, I’ve gone to masking the inside of the action completely and not coating any portion of the bolt that is bearing surface.

 

[Steel head]

I agree. For personal and customer builds, I’ve gone to masking the inside of the action completely and not coating any portion of the bolt that is bearing surface.

 

[lash]

I agree. For personal and customer builds, I’ve gone to masking the inside of the action completely and not coating any portion of the bolt that is bearing surface.

I had one bolt done with ceracoat in the spiral grooves. It’s a nice look, though it has no functional value. I have nothing against good looks though.

 

[SharpsNitro]

I agree. For personal and customer builds, I’ve gone to masking the inside of the action completely and not coating any portion of the bolt that is bearing surface.

That‘s my usual method also. I’ve done stock Remingtons without masking and you can tell that the clearances tighten up.

For the poster, I would suspect you have a thick edge or spot in the extractor grove at the rear of the action that the claw is binding on.

 

[CamoWhamo]

What chassis or stock do you have the action mounted in?
I've had a couple of action/stock combos where the bedding and action (despite both being R700 footprint) were mismatched enough that the tang would bend when you tightened the action screws and this caused bolt binding.
If you take the action from the stock does it get any better or is the binding still there?

 

[WeiserBucks]

What chassis or stock do you have the action mounted in?
I've had a couple of action/stock combos where the bedding and action (despite both being R700 footprint) were mismatched enough that the tang would bend when you tightened the action screws and this caused bolt binding.
If you take the action from the stock does it get any better or is the binding still there?

It's the same result in and out of the stock, the stock work and bedding on this one is top notch.