Rifle Scopes Issue with my install..... I think?

E

Evol ways

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Minuteman
Nov 6, 2012
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Nor Cal
#1
I just received my badger rings and installed my NF. is it normal for the reticle to not be exactly vertical. It's canted when I'm behind the rifle. I used a level on the action and verified it was dead close with the one bedded into my stock. Once action was leveled I placed a level on top of my scope elevation turret and matched it up with the one in the stock. I kept checking the level the whole time I was tightening down to check for movement. This is my first bolt action rifle and I'm not sure if it's me or if there was a flaw in my install. Thanks everyone.

Here's some pics.

822092952fba0651f8849d355d1a8a69.jpg

c2389ccc7e5b49e814a990d8120f93c5.jpg


Thanks guys.
 
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#2
Are you going based off of it "looking" tilted or are you using some method to look down the scope at an object and it appears to be tilted?

I am not sure if this is an actual method but you could hang a string with a weight on the end down range and level your rifle while looking down the scope and if your reticle covers the view of the string then it should be level to the action.
 
#3
Got this from another site:

"Scope alignment to the top of receiver. This is probably the most common optical alignment method. Several variations exist and at least one of them is familiar to most shooters. This method usually involves the use of spirit levels of one type or another, some of which can be quite expensive. A level is placed on the scope base (or rail), or some other flat surface on the top of the receiver, and the rifle is rotated until the receiver is level. Then a spirit level is placed on the rifle scope turret cap and the scope is rotated until the turret cap is level.

After leveling the receiver or base, some shooters use a plumb line 20 or more feet in front of the rifle to align the scope reticle. Another variation is to use a metal ruler to align the bottom of the turret housing parallel to the scope base (or rail). The Segway Reticle Leveler, sold by Straight Shot ($20), is a handy tool that has bold horizontal black lines and attaches to the receiver (usually the base or rail) using a rubber band. It enables the alignment of the reticle by looking into the eyepiece and the leveler at the same time.
"
 
#4
Donr13 said:
I am not sure if this is an actual method but you could hang a string with a weight on the end down range and level your rifle while looking down the scope and if your reticle covers the view of the string then it should be level to the action.
Click to expand...

This is what I have done when mounting just about all my scopes. Make sure the rifle is level, then set the optic so that it is in-line with a weighted string to get a near perfect mount. If it wasn't a high quality scope like a Nightforce I would contact the manufacturer, but the chances are you just need to retry mounting it with the method mentioned.
 
#7
101pathfinder said:
Tilted ruler method?
Click to expand...

Ring said:
check the bottom with feeler gauges or the "tilted ruler" method to make sure
Click to expand...

I tried doing that and heres how it came out. if you look at the bottom of the pic you can see my level in my stock is showing level. still looks canted to me dont you think? If it matters i used my calipers to square up the two surfaces.

3C02B2E9-FDC7-4A01-98A6-52531195826B.jpg
 
#8
I level my reticle to be level in relation to the stock. I have no idea whether this is a good thing or a bad thing.

I used to think I did, but I was probably mistaken. It's amazing how many things I once thought I knew have turned out not to be so.

Expecting the reticle and knob covers/erector shell to be in perfect alignment is also often a faulty assumption.

I place my rifle in a cleaning rest and align the buttpad screws parallel to a plumb line. I then sight through the scope with the rings loose enough to rotate the scope, and align it so the vertical reticle wire is parallel to another plumb line out front a ways. Take care to ensure there is also enough eye relief when you do this. I tighten the ring clamp screws one turn at a time all around until snug and recheck the buttpad screws and reticle wire for parallel to the plumb lines. Finish tightening the ring clamp screws 1/2 turn at a time all around until proper torque us attained. Might pay to recheck the plumb lines, reticle, and buttpad screws one last time.

When you're happy with it, do or redo the reticle focus adjustment.

Finally, if the reticle looks tilted when the rifle is on the bipod, relevel the bipod, not the reticle.

I have never seen evidence that this method impairs my accuracy. I'm probably not a good enough shooter to tell such differences. I may not be alone here with that.

Greg
 
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#9
Shouldn't the reticle be level in relation to earth?

The rifle is just a mount that has to interface with your lumpy body. Get the rifle interfaced with your body correctly and most likely all those common reference points, such as action flats, will no longer be level.

Place a plumb line down range. Establish a solid rifle shooting position. Plumb your reticle with your plumb line.

The barrel and bullet are round, unless you are using iron sights timed off the action they don't care if the action is level
 
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#10
Yes, the reticle needs to be level in relationship to the earth when you shoot. If you level the scope/reticle to the action/rifle and hold the rifle canted (due to shoulder pocket) you need to cant the scope to match.

I prefer to use a plumb bob at a distance and with my natural hold/point of aim, adjust the scope to have the reticle level.
 
#11
Yea I used the exact technique with the string, put it at 75 yards with a weight hanging from a tree branch. Then I put my Wheeler level on my scope base, made sure I was level and steady in my base and turned my scope until it sat parallel with the string (actually covered the string perfectly).

The biggest hassle I run into and perhaps you did is that when you tighten down the screws on your rings, it can easily cant it to one side or the other. I just about lose my mind at this point because you can be dead nuts on, tighten them down (alternating side to side as I tighten) and then I look through there and my scope is canted again.
 
#12
I Am Hero said:
Yea I used the exact technique with the string, put it at 75 yards with a weight hanging from a tree branch. Then I put my Wheeler level on my scope base, made sure I was level and steady in my base and turned my scope until it sat parallel with the string (actually covered the string perfectly).

The biggest hassle I run into and perhaps you did is that when you tighten down the screws on your rings, it can easily cant it to one side or the other. I just about lose my mind at this point because you can be dead nuts on, tighten them down (alternating side to side as I tighten) and then I look through there and my scope is canted again.
Click to expand...

Ideally there would be a friend available to snug me up while you look through/adjust the scope.
 
#13
you may want to check the side-to-side cant/swivel of the bipod, if it has one. I went through the same thing the other day...stock was level and scope was level, but when I put it on the bipod, everything was canted. Turns out the bipod was canted/swiveled to one side. Once I released it and made sure it was sitting flat all good.
 
#16
Level the scope to the base with feeler gauges between the base and the saddle. Then install a level (like a Holland) on your scope while keeping the reticle aligned with a plumb line.
Before you do that, take everything off and turn your rings around so the bolts are on the left side of the rifle away from the ejection port.
 
#21
The vertical stadia looks close to plumb with the rifle.
See how the bottom of the vertical stadia points at the center of the receiver?

Joe

*edit* I think what may be throwing it off is the sticker on the objective bell :)
 
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#22
Level with the action/rifle is NOT what is important.

Level with the earth when you are shooting IS. And many people do not have a natural hold that holds the rifle level, so adjust the scope to YOUR hold.
 
#24
Mount the scope with the rings snug but not tight.

Hang a plumb bob downrange. Using your normal position and hold, sight on the plumb bob and adjust the scope to have the vertical stadia in line with the plumb bob.

Tighten the rings and recheck.
 
#25
Pinecone said:
Mount the scope with the rings snug but not tight.

Hang a plumb bob downrange. Using your normal position and hold, sight on the plumb bob and adjust the scope to have the vertical stadia in line with the plumb bob.

Tighten the rings and recheck.
Click to expand...

How far do you shoot?
 
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