Rifle Scopes It is driving me nuts

[707electrician]

Re: It is driving me nuts

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hellbender</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Now that you know the receiver is the problem and you have to bed the base anyway; you can easily bed it to gain back the 15 MOA you are losing (or more if you want it). </div></div>

How would I go about bedding it to get back that 15 MOA?

 

[Hellbender]

Re: It is driving me nuts

Leave JUST the very front base screw in, but not very tight.

Shim the rear up with small shims (only 1/2" x1/4" or so) to figure the height you want. They can be made of anything, alum. can is fine. The bedding epoxy will support the base, the shims will just hold the base height in place while the epoxy cures. I'm guessing you will need another .012-.015 inch more than the .015 it is floating now, so stick .030 under it and try that.

Do a search on bedding the base, there's been several good posts on it, and bed it around your shims to that height. I'm not gonna retype all the details on doing it.

JB Weld works great.

 

[707electrician]

Re: It is driving me nuts

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hellbender</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Leave JUST the very front base screw in, but not very tight.

Shim the rear up with small shims (only 1/2" x1/4" or so) to figure the height you want. They can be made of anything, alum. can is fine. The bedding epoxy will support the base, the shims will just hold the base height in place while the epoxy cures. I'm guessing you will need another .012-.015 inch more than the .015 it is floating now, so stick .030 under it and try that.

Do a search on bedding the base, there's been several good posts on it, and bed it around your shims to that height. I'm not gonna retype all the details on doing it.

JB Weld works great. </div></div>

So I need to temporarily shim the rear to the desired height, epoxy the front, let it cure then epoxy the rear? Or do I leave the shims and epoxy them in?

 

[jtv3062]

Re: It is driving me nuts

Go back to my post on calguns, I have you the link to bed your scope mount

 

[707electrician]

Re: It is driving me nuts

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jtv3062</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Go back to my post on calguns, I have you the link to bed your scope mount </div></div>

I have read a lot of links on bedding but none of them mention shimming

 

[Hellbender]

Re: It is driving me nuts

[/quote]

So I need to temporarily shim the rear to the desired height, epoxy the front, let it cure then epoxy the rear? Or do I leave the shims and epoxy them in? [/quote]

Either way is fine, just make sure the base is flat (use caliper beam to check) and not torqued down tight until after the epoxy cures. I'd leave the shims in and just bed them in, they won't do anything anyway after the epoxy cures (all they are doing is locating the base at the proper height), and it will save time to do both ends at the same time (and give you less opportunity to mess up

).

All that matters is the base is at the right height, flat and not canted when done.

 

[707electrician]

Re: It is driving me nuts

What works best as a release agent?

 

[Hellbender]

Re: It is driving me nuts

I don't use any on bases. I like them epoxied solid. A poor mans Surgeon
Action.

But Kiwi shoe polish, Johnson paste floorwax, or car wax (solid type in a can, not liquid) all work well. Put on a couple coats and buff it off well.

 

[707electrician]

Re: It is driving me nuts

I was thinking about doing that but this way I can remove it and try again if I mess it up

 

[707electrician]

Re: It is driving me nuts

Here is my plan

Im going to bed the rear first by putting the two screws in the front half and then wedging in my mountain dew shim like so

Then after that cures I will put in the rear two screws and the front most screw and epoxy where the shim was. This will get me about 18 MOA which far exceeds gov't work and is enough for me

 

[Hellbender]

Re: It is driving me nuts

Put the screws in the rear loosely (make sure you fill the holes and screw threads with release agent), to keep things lined up. Rough up the bottom of the base with some sandpaper.


When you snug any screws up, CHECK the base for flatness with your straightedge. If you tighten any screw too tight, you will bow the base.

Many bases (esp. aluminum) are bowed up in the middle from the factory, and you can straighten them up just by playing with the screws.

The straightedge won't lie, everything else will.

Many of the bases slapped on guns are crooked and cause many of the "scope" or "ring" problems people have. And it's SO easy to check with a simple straightedge!!

 

[D_TROS]

Re: It is driving me nuts

Here a good read about shim thickness and the result...

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...673#Post2492673

Good luck!!

Regards,
DT

 

[boltactionfan]

Re: It is driving me nuts

Did you get your gun and scope squared away?

 

[707electrician]

Re: It is driving me nuts

As far as I can tell I got my elevation back and maybe a little bit more but the windage is still off. Its a lot better but it is still not centered

 

[strick9]

Re: It is driving me nuts

pm sent

 

[Dodgefan]

Re: It is driving me nuts

After re-reading this it almost sounds like the screw hole in the base are slightly out of line. You've got the answer to your elevation issues so you are good there. You might take a look down through the rear screw holes on the base and see if you can spot any misalignment between them and the mounting holes on the action. Look at it this way if everything always went right we'd never learn anything.

 

[boltactionfan]

Re: It is driving me nuts

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dodgefan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After re-reading this it almost sounds like the screw hole in the base are slightly out of line. You've got the answer to your elevation issues so you are good there. You might take a look down through the rear screw holes on the base and see if you can spot any misalignment between them and the mounting holes on the action. Look at it this way if everything always went right we'd never learn anything.

</div></div>
Or we would live in Oz with Toto

 

[Dodgefan]

Re: It is driving me nuts

I meant to put this in the first post, but my fingers couldn't keep up, but put the base on with just the front screws in and look to see if there is any misalignment in the rear screw holes. It doesn't take a lot of misalignment to cause windage issues. I know I ran into pretty much the same issue as the OP quite a while back and ended up bedding the base and Burris Signature rings to sort it out. My windage wasn't off quite as much though.

 

[707electrician]

Re: It is driving me nuts

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dodgefan</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I meant to put this in the first post, but my fingers couldn't keep up, but put the base on with just the front screws in and look to see if there is any misalignment in the rear screw holes. It doesn't take a lot of misalignment to cause windage issues. I know I ran into pretty much the same issue as the OP quite a while back and ended up bedding the base and Burris Signature rings to sort it out. My windage wasn't off quite as much though. </div></div>

Its a good 12-14MOA too far to the right. I'd like to fix this without using the signature rings. I would like to check the hole alignment to see if they are parallel to the bore but I don't think I have to proper tools to do it