Had to linseed oil up my Smithy spatula.....
So why shouldn't an M1A and an M40 get some hand love........
So why shouldn't an M1A and an M40 get some hand love........
It puts the lotion on the wood........
- Thread starter pmclaine
- Start date
I use boiled. Pics of an axe handle. I scrubbed off the varnish (blister maker) and then soaked it in the oil. I also use it to secure the head on an axe or hammer by soaking the top of the handle in the oil for a week or so. It swells the wood grain and prevents it from loosening. Cover the container or the oil will form a skin. Buff the wooden handle afterwards for a smooth finish. I’ve used it on canoe paddles as well.
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Started the process of cleaning varnish off and applying some on a stubby sledge handle yesterday for a sledge I pulled out of a scrap pile at work. Sledge spent three days in evaporust and finally got painted yesterday....unfortunately some jackhoff reached for the flat black on the shelf but got home to find semi gloss in the bag.
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I know the M40 is just raw linseed oil as I had that stock from its au natural state.
The M1A sports a GI stock so I'm assuming RLO on that one originally also.
No varnish.
They have sat now for a few hours and I have wiped any surface oil off with a paper towel......
By tommorow they will be low lustre.
Neat work recycling old tools.
Probably better steel in that than if bought Corona China new.
Let's see some spectacular shaft with an oil finish.
I've a few stocks finished in pure ting oil.
Tung oil will get MO' Glossy than Linseed.
I could see it building too much finish perhaps.
Kind of like the skin that will build on a container of linseed left open.
Beauty of oil just rub more on to fix it.
What's in it.
I avoid anything that has the word "finish" on the label.
If the ingredient list says anything other than "Contains pure tung/linseed oil" than I doubt it will be any better than what I'm using for my purposes.
It puts the lotion on the wood....
I was expecting something a bit different here.
I was expecting something a bit different here.
Disappointed?
Not the Grindr posts you like to chase down Im taking it.............
Double boiled linseed oil, the company name escapes me. About 12 coats hand rubbed into the wood. I'll resist the temptation of telling you how hard I rubbed the oil into my wood.....ahem.
Flashed over, soaked in, polymerizing, losing the shine.....
I'll be taking the .223 M40 out tommorow.
I'll be taking the .223 M40 out tommorow.
Out in the sun today. This rifle could benefit from a tan, some UV light polymerizing the oil....
Shooting was only so, so.......250 rounds might be time to swab the bore......
Shooting was only so, so.......250 rounds might be time to swab the bore......
That's interesting. The wood had to have a defect though, to make that happen. Could you sand it or press it down?
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sea2summit,
I recommend you grind down those anomalies on the faces of your sledge hammer. You want a good flat face. If those come off as chips they can do a lot of damage. If it's just paint, then nevermind.
All the years as a kid splitting wood with wedges, sledges and mauls taught me to knock off the mushroom heads and chips or they'll come flying off there like a bullet. One friend in high school got hit on the inside of the calf and it went to the outside. Another, just after high school took one in the femoral artery. He lived, but man-oh-man to hear his mom tell me how much blood there was, was pretty scary for him.
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