Gunsmithing Jewell Trigger Issue

[WVU]

I just installed a Jewell HVR on my Remington 700. Initially the inside of the manners stock had to be cut back in order to allow the safety tang to function smoothly and not "hang". Resolved in short order with a Dremel Tool.

My issue now is that the trigger will fire when the bolt is closed (if the safety is off). If the gun is not put back on safety between each bolt cycle the firing pin will "fire" when the bolt is closed. Upon closer inspection I've found that by placing the gun on "safe" the firing pin block is pushed back into the proper position - if not it stays "down".

For a single shot or for the first initial shot this would not be an issue, however, if taking a string of shots the gun would have to be placed on safety between every shot. If it isn't then I'm certain it would "slam fire" when closing the bolt.

Can anyone give some advice or guidance on how to resolve the issue? What am I missing?


-I've attempted to clean it (without taking the assembly COMPLETELY apart).
-I've checked the sear engagement
-I've checked the over travel
-I've checked the trigger weight

Thanks

 

[bkw1911]

Take it out of the stock and see if it still does it. If it doesn't then it's not the trigger and it's some kind of contact on the trigger

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

[TRAAV]

Sounds like it's still touching something.

 

[mrbig]

I had to take out a right smart in front and on both sides to clear the Jewell in an AICS,,if it is touching anywhere it wont work,,

 

[Turd in the Pool]

Sounds like one I saw go in the other day. The side plates of the housing were bowed and they were pinching the sear. Couple of whacks with a hammer got 'em straight and it worked like a charm;-)

 

[WVU]

Sounds like one I saw go in the other day. The side plates of the housing were bowed and they were pinching the sear. Couple of whacks with a hammer got 'em straight and it worked like a charm;-)

I hope it don't have to beat a precision instrument with a hammer in order to get it to work haha....It does it in and out of the stock...I took the trigger assembly back off the action to inspect it and when putting it back its feels much tighter (thicker) than the factory rigger assembly. The front pin that holds the assembly on the assembly appears to have a bushing of some sort that makes it wider than the factory --- TurdinthePool - is this the section that you had to straighten out?

 

[LRI]

Take a file and work over the bushings poking through the side plates. Slip fit into trigger well ok. Interference fit is no good. If it pinches the transfer bar it'll act up. It has to float freely. Once you get it right you can put pressure on the transfer bar with a screw driver or pick. Pull trigger mad it should drop and reset on its own. If it fails to do this it'll never work right.

C.

 

[Turd in the Pool]

No, Look at the side plates from the front or rear or put a straight edge on them. The prob child I mentioned had side plate bowed in the middle. Check to see if the sear moves up and down freely when it's off the action. When p/c was installed it pinched the sear. I know hitting it with a hammer sounds harsh but it's the easiest way to get there. Be sure to use an anvil.

Another time wasting option is to pull it apart and iron the plates flat (with a hammer) and reassemble.


ETA It helps to know how to use a hammer

 

[Turd in the Pool]

If it fails to do this it'll never work right.

C.

Might want to rethink this kitty skinner ;-)

 

[Turd in the Pool]

A pic will save your typing finger ;-)

 

[WVU]

A pic will save your typing finger ;-)

I stripped the trigger assembly down and polished:
- sides of the firing pin block
- inside edges of trigger assembly plates (where they contact the firing pin block)

It seems to have resolved the issue ---

Thanks for the help guys