Jumping from 300 to 600 yards

[Dylanm1212]

My 2 local range are only 200yds I'm driving a few hours away tomarrow to shoot at a 300yd range. They make you qualify by shooting 5 consecutive shots inside a 6in target to let you into the 600 yard range. Which I don't see being an issue.

My question is for some one new to long range how do you make that jump from 300 strait to 600 with no previous data. The ammo box says 4.4in low at 200yds and my scope is @ 2.5 moa so there pretty close. Is that a sign that the 3,4,500 data on the box could work for me?

Current setup is a Remington 700 aac as 20in 308. A nightforce shv 4-14x50 ffp mil scope. Magpul bipod and a home made rear bag.

At my home range 2-2.5in 5 shot groups are fairly easy at 200 yards. 175g federal gmm sierra or a maxes.

 

[Dthomas3523]

They let you shoot the 6” plate @ 300yds? If it’s 600, that’s no walk in the park.

As far as going from 300 to 600, either use the “weaponized math” (do a search for that here) or input the info into your software and go from there. You should be very close and can adjust after seeing a round or two.

 

[Dylanm1212]

They let you shoot the 6” plate @ 300yds? If it’s 600, that’s no walk in the park.

No it's at 300 and thank you for the charts I will print those out for future references.

 

[Rocketmandb]

There is very little difference between hitting at 300 and 600. If the wind is way up, you might have a little bit of extra challenge, but otherwise, find your elevation adjustment and go. If you can shoot decent groups at 300, you'll do fine at 600. If you can get to shooting decent groups at 600, you'll have little difficulty getting to 1000. If you can get to... you get the idea. Keep working up. If your fundamentals are good, you'll quickly ring steel at longer distances. If your fundamentals are lacking, get them up to par as you move up.

 

[308pirate]

I just can't.......

 

[Baron23]

I just can't.......

????

 

[acudaowner]

you can do it just take your time and write down your actual dope when you do hit so you can do it again .

 

[KZP]

Is your rifle zeroed at 100 yards? To need 2.5 MOA at 200 yards, Strelok is saying your muzzle velocity is only 2300 fps at 150 feet DA. That velocity seems way too low for a 20" barrel shooting 175 FGMM. I was getting 2550 FPS in a 20" AR10.

 

[theLBC]

if you were zeroed at 100, i would guess it is going to be 4.7 mils =/- 0.1 @ 600.

 

[Oldloser]

Get ballistic arc or 4doff. Or you can develop your own data. I think fgmm175 is in 4doff. I get 2620 FPS out of a 24 in barrel for that ammo. My dope says 1.3 mil at 300 yards, then 2.3 then 3.3 and then 4.6 at subsequent 100 yards.

 

[MarshallDodge]

.....
The ammo box says 4.4in low at 200yds and my scope is @ 2.5 moa so there pretty close. ...
Current setup is a Remington 700 aac as 20in 308. A nightforce shv 4-14x50 ffp mil scope. Magpul bipod and a home made rear bag.
......

It is always best to get an accurate chrono reading. Even at 200, you are seeing almost a 15% difference between the box and your actual hits. At 600, that error could be substantial.

I'm not sure how your scope is telling you anything MOA when it is a mil scope. You need to pick one or the other, and since you have a mil scope, stay with that.

A ballistics calculator, even a freebie like Strelok, will help you get to 600. You need accurate data such as velocity, bullet BC, scope height, and zero distance.

 

[308pirate]

It is always best to get an accurate chrono reading. Even at 200, you are seeing almost a 15% difference between the box and your actual hits. At 600, that error could be substantial.

I'm not sure how your scope is telling you anything MOA when it is a mil scope. You need to pick one or the other, and since you have a mil scope, stay with that.

A ballistics calculator, even a freebie like Strelok, will help you get to 600. You need accurate data such as velocity, bullet BC, scope height, and zero distance.

Why would he need a chrono? He has actual impact data at 200 yards

Chronos are nice, but not strictly absolutely necessary

100% agree he needs to stop mentioning inches and MOA if he has a milliradian scope on that rifle.

 

[308pirate]

you can do it just take your time and write down your actual dope when you do hit so you can do it again .

Huh?

 

[308pirate]

My 2 local range are only 200yds I'm driving a few hours away tomarrow to shoot at a 300yd range. They make you qualify by shooting 5 consecutive shots inside a 6in target to let you into the 600 yard range. Which I don't see being an issue.

My question is for some one new to long range how do you make that jump from 300 strait to 600 with no previous data. The ammo box says 4.4in low at 200yds and my scope is @ 2.5 moa so there pretty close. Is that a sign that the 3,4,500 data on the box could work for me?

Current setup is a Remington 700 aac as 20in 308. A nightforce shv 4-14x50 ffp mil scope. Magpul bipod and a home made rear bag.

At my home range 2-2.5in 5 shot groups are fairly easy at 200 yards. 175g federal gmm sierra or a maxes.

Here's an outline of what you need to do in order. Follow this and you'll have a clue. If any of the below is confusing or unfamiliar, pay for the online training here.

1. Get a ballistic calculator. Doesn't matter which. I use this: http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi
2. If you have a scope that adjusts in milliradians, setup your calculator to output elevation and windage corrections in MILLIRADIANS. Not inches. Not MOA. Not inches per hundred yards. MILLIRADIANS. Scope units (reticle and turrets) and ballistic calculator units for elevation and wind MUST be the same. I cannot overstate the importance of this.
3. Once you do #2, DO NOT ever think of bullet trajectory in anything but scope adjustment units (milliradians in your case). EVER.
4. Develop a trajectory chart all the way to 600 yards based on what you know:
   1. Your zero distance
   2. Your elevation adjustment for 200 yards
   3. Your bullet data (length, ballistic coefficient, plastic tip length (if applicable)
   4. Typical atmospheric conditions in your location at this time of the year.
   5. Adjust muzzle velocity until it shows at 200 yards the elevation adjustment that it actually took you to hit at 200 yds: 0.7 milliradians
5. Use the predicted 300 yard elevation adjustment developed in step 4 to shoot at 300 yards and verify. Do not worry if your predicted elevation isn't exactly right. It's an approximation to get you close. Shoot until you are sure that you are dialed in at 300 and write that elevation adjustment down.
6. Use your actual 200 and 300 yard elevations, and the atmospheric conditions at the time that you shot at 300 yards to fine tune your muzzle velocity in the ballistic calculator until its elevation outputs for 200 and 300 yards line up with your actual results from the range. Note what the predicted 600 yard elevation is now.
   1. Make damned sure that rifle and atmospheric parameters actually are correct, particularly the vertical distance from bore centerline to scope centerline (sometimes called "sight offset")
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 but at 600 yards with the predicted 600 yard elevation that you developed in step 6.

 

[Dylanm1212]

I'm not sure how your scope is telling you anything MOA when it is a mil scope. You need to pick one or the other, and since you have a mil scope, stay with that.

That's my bad it's moa I copy pasted
the model and didnt verify the reticle version.

 

[gonzaga]

Use a ballistic app. If you have your info at 300 yds with good consistent impacts it will give you a good dope at 600.

 

[MarshallDodge]

Why would he need a chrono? He has actual impact data at 200 yards

Chronos are nice, but not strictly absolutely necessary

100% agree he needs to stop mentioning inches and MOA if he has a milliradian scope on that rifle.

If @Dylanm1212 trusts his shots at 200 and 300 then you are correct, he wouldn't necessarily need a chrono and can use that to extrapolate his trajectory. I forgot to mention that in my post

 

[Baron23]

Here's an outline of what you need to do in order. Follow this and you'll have a clue. If any of the below is confusing or unfamiliar, pay for the online training here.

1. Get a ballistic calculator. Doesn't matter which. I use this: http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi
2. If you have a scope that adjusts in milliradians, setup your calculator to output elevation and windage corrections in MILLIRADIANS. Not inches. Not MOA. Not inches per hundred yards. MILLIRADIANS. Scope units (reticle and turrets) and ballistic calculator units for elevation and wind MUST be the same. I cannot overstate the importance of this.
3. Once you do #2, DO NOT ever think of bullet trajectory in anything but scope adjustment units (milliradians in your case). EVER.
4. Develop a trajectory chart all the way to 600 yards based on what you know:
   1. Your zero distance
   2. Your elevation adjustment for 200 yards
   3. Your bullet data (length, ballistic coefficient, plastic tip length (if applicable)
   4. Typical atmospheric conditions in your location at this time of the year.
   5. Adjust muzzle velocity until it shows at 200 yards the elevation adjustment that it actually took you to hit at 200 yds: 0.7 milliradians
5. Use the predicted 300 yard elevation adjustment developed in step 4 to shoot at 300 yards and verify. Do not worry if your predicted elevation isn't exactly right. It's an approximation to get you close. Shoot until you are sure that you are dialed in at 300 and write that elevation adjustment down.
6. Use your actual 200 and 300 yard elevations, and the atmospheric conditions at the time that you shot at 300 yards to fine tune your muzzle velocity in the ballistic calculator until its elevation outputs for 200 and 300 yards line up with your actual results from the range. Note what the predicted 600 yard elevation is now.
   1. Make damned sure that rifle and atmospheric parameters actually are correct, particularly the vertical distance from bore centerline to scope centerline (sometimes called "sight offset")
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 but at 600 yards with the predicted 600 yard elevation that you developed in step 6.

@Dylanm1212 IMO, pay close attention to this ^^

 

[ThomasBeckett]

Yes, take your time and follow that process exactly and you will have no problem at 600 yd. I did that same thing a few months ago for my first 1000+ yd steel match with actual dope at 300 yd. I was able to get first round impacts at 800 yd, and usually second round beyond that. 600 yds was no problem.

Just take your time and make sure your zero is perfect, and your 300 yd shots are perfect. A small dope error at 300 gets larger as you extrapolate beyond that. And when you do start shooting at the extrapolated distances, spot your hits/misses as best as you can so you can make corrections to the calcs. Take lots of notes so nothing gets lost in the mix.

 

[Caymanboy]

My 2 local range are only 200yds I'm driving a few hours away tomarrow to shoot at a 300yd range. They make you qualify by shooting 5 consecutive shots inside a 6in target to let you into the 600 yard range. Which I don't see being an issue.

My question is for some one new to long range how do you make that jump from 300 strait to 600 with no previous data. The ammo box says 4.4in low at 200yds and my scope is @ 2.5 moa so there pretty close. Is that a sign that the 3,4,500 data on the box could work for me?

Current setup is a Remington 700 aac as 20in 308. A nightforce shv 4-14x50 ffp mil scope. Magpul bipod and a home made rear bag.

At my home range 2-2.5in 5 shot groups are fairly easy at 200 yards. 175g federal gmm sierra or a maxes.

Mannatee Gun Club?

 

[jolofree]

Does the 600 yard range have only the one firing line / target @ distance ? No chance to shoot at 400 500 & then the 600yd target ?