Night Vision Jumping in, help me spend $4-6K

[verdugo60]

Have been lurking for years, about ready to spend 4-6K on my first NV/Thermal.

I have long been considering starting with a gen 3 PVS-14 and helmet setup and possibly adding a second 14 or thermal like the one coming in November that’s a clip on site or can be bridged.

I am LE but this is mostly for personal use. If you had 4-6K to start with what would you get?

My uses are primarily for training/shooting carbines at night, might try to hunt some yotes or pigs down the road eventually. I have a carbine with an aimpoint pro and white light for home defense, would like to set up 1-2 AR’s with??? DBAL, IR illuminator, etc?

I know it’s easy to drop a ton into this but I basically want to increase my night navigation and operational ability for both urban and rural environments. Watch the news to know why, lol. Stargazing and hikes are night would be fun side benefits.

Would I save money getting two 14’s at the same time from a vendor here? Are dedicated binos a better idea if I might want thermal down the road? I know I can’t touch Thermal and NV together for that budget, just trying to buy smart and think ahead if things stay “normal” a while longer and I can buy more stuff later.

 

[Jgunner]

Maybe that new halo helmet mounted on a bump. Slightly over your max, but if you can buy a cheaper helmet for now.

 

[verdugo60]

Maybe that new halo helmet mounted on a bump. Slightly over your max, but if you can buy a cheaper helmet for now.

Is that what we’re calling this one?

Night Vision - Nvision delivers again! New Helmet/weapon mountable therml

www.snipershide.com

 

[nn8734]

I also just got into NODs (money pit, haha!). I am starting with a White Phosphorus PVS-14 on a Ops Core bump helmet (Wilcox mounts), helmet mounted IR strobe and light. Will be acquiring a MAWL C1+ soon for aiming.

For shooting longer range, I recently purchased an OTSI PVS 27 to go from rifle to rifle. It will also see duty clipped onto a mount used in conjunction with my spotting scope. Total invested so far: ~$6800 (Not counting MAWL).

 

[MtnGhost]

I'll throw in my $0.02 so you can get an idea of my decision making process thus far, I just started putting together my first real NV setup this month with dual factory L3 PVS-14s (unfilmed WP, supreme tubes). I'm humble, but my setup won't be "complete" until I have (1) a solid thermal monocular like a Skeet or that new Nvision (2) a high-output Darth Vader-level IR light that makes me happy (Luna ELIR-3 will do it for now though).

Now I would say that I could definitely work with a single PVS-14 on a helmet (I had a single gen2 for a while and made due), but I'm a redundancy freak so I needed a minimum of 2. Plus, my wife or kid will be able to use one when we hunt.

That said, I'm in the market for the thermal that I can run along side my helmet mounted 14, and I feel that is mandatory equipment for a complete night time setup. I have a little Leupold LTO Tracker 2 HD that actually works pretty damned well (to a point), but it's not 640px @60hz, and it's not designed to be helmet mounted.

Everything else that I bought was straightforward. Chose the KVC bridge so I could run the PVS-14s and thermal. G24 is awesome. My only mistake has been the Crye Nightcap. My head circumference is probably 1/2" too big and it's extremely uncomfortable lol

 

[JWG]

My choice in a very similar boat:

Device(s): PVS14 Vyper C, carson glass, L3 UF WP tube, MAWL C1
Helmet: TW Exfil LTP
Mounting: Norotos Hyper INVG + Dual Dovetail

 

[JonLSU]

If you're wanting to save a little on the NVG side and don't need the best of the best, the XLS line from Night Goggles has been getting some really good spec'd units for the price out with a lot of good reviews. There's a couple threads over on ar15.com in the night vision section that shows what people are getting spec wise and a few photos and videos. They stopped taking orders for a bit so they can catch up on the back log.

 

[verdugo60]

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it. I’m thinking I’ll start with a bump helmet setup with something like 2 XLS WP 14’s and maybe a 9007 DBAL I-2 on 1-2 carbines.

Then as funds allow look at either a helmet mountable thermal for one eye or a thermal site on a “night gun”.

What say ye? Is the KAC bridge the best to connect two monoculars? Does it connect directly to an ops core bump helmet? Anyone know when they will open the XLS ones back up for ordering and is there a vendor that can offer a similar quality alternative?
Anyone offering LE/MIL discounts or package discounts?

I’m debating on waiting for a Black Friday sale somewhere but with 20+week wait times that kind of sucks.

 

[Victor-TNVC]

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it. I’m thinking I’ll start with a bump helmet setup with something like 2 XLS WP 14’s and maybe a 9007 DBAL I-2 on 1-2 carbines.

Then as funds allow look at either a helmet mountable thermal for one eye or a thermal site on a “night gun”.

What say ye? Is the KAC bridge the best to connect two monoculars? Does it connect directly to an ops core bump helmet? Anyone know when they will open the XLS ones back up for ordering and is there a vendor that can offer a similar quality alternative?
Anyone offering LE/MIL discounts or package discounts?

I’m debating on waiting for a Black Friday sale somewhere but with 20+week wait times that kind of sucks.

NIightGoggles hope to open up the XLSH line again in November. They were absolutely crushed by the demand for the $2350 sale and it never stopped after that. We have orders in with Elbit for hundreds of hundreds of tubes and that goes for L3 as well.

Was just in a meeting with L3 today taking about the lengthy lead times. It's only getting worse with lead times this year due to increased Mil requirements for Unfilmed white phos not only for SOCOM but for aviation needs. Couple this with the commercial needs, and a perfect lead time storm.

 

[NateSavannah]

I'll throw in my $0.02 so you can get an idea of my decision making process thus far, I just started putting together my first real NV setup this month with dual factory L3 PVS-14s (unfilmed WP, supreme tubes). I'm humble, but my setup won't be "complete" until I have (1) a solid thermal monocular like a Skeet or that new Nvision (2) a high-output Darth Vader-level IR light that makes me happy (Luna ELIR-3 will do it for now though).

Now I would say that I could definitely work with a single PVS-14 on a helmet (I had a single gen2 for a while and made due), but I'm a redundancy freak so I needed a minimum of 2. Plus, my wife or kid will be able to use one when we hunt.

That said, I'm in the market for the thermal that I can run along side my helmet mounted 14, and I feel that is mandatory equipment for a complete night time setup. I have a little Leupold LTO Tracker 2 HD that actually works pretty damned well (to a point), but it's not 640px @60hz, and it's not designed to be helmet mounted.

Everything else that I bought was straightforward. Chose the KVC bridge so I could run the PVS-14s and thermal. G24 is awesome. My only mistake has been the Crye Nightcap. My head circumference is probably 1/2" too big and it's extremely uncomfortable lol

only laughing because i got a big noggin as well.

 

[NateSavannah]

Theres a couple posts on here about people debating between dual 14s and binos. Id suggest reading a few of those. Deciding where you land on that argument will likely help guide the direction of your buying choices. both have their advantages and people on both sides of the argument feel very strongly about what they feel. lots of good information out there in that regard.
my 2 cents. Im tough on my shit. If it can be broken, ill break it. Id rather have 2 items to break than 1. dual 14s is the route i took.
as for thermal, im just a window shopper at this point and cant speak from experience.

 

[Victor-TNVC]

Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate it. I’m thinking I’ll start with a bump helmet setup with something like 2 XLS WP 14’s and maybe a 9007 DBAL I-2 on 1-2 carbines.

Then as funds allow look at either a helmet mountable thermal for one eye or a thermal site on a “night gun”.

What say ye? Is the KAC bridge the best to connect two monoculars? Does it connect directly to an ops core bump helmet? Anyone know when they will open the XLS ones back up for ordering and is there a vendor that can offer a similar quality alternative?
Anyone offering LE/MIL discounts or package discounts?

I’m debating on waiting for a Black Friday sale somewhere but with 20+week wait times that kind of sucks.

Yes we offer discounts to all Mil/LE and other first responders including medical professionals. Email sales at tnvc with your creds and we'll get you squared away. Thank you.

 

[MtnGhost]

What say ye? Is the KAC bridge the best to connect two monoculars? Does it connect directly to an ops core bump helmet?

I was split between the Wilcox 63100G16 and the KVC bridge. The OSS shoes needed for mounting the 14s to the KVC are a separate SKU than the bridge itself, but it still came out slightly under the MSRP of the Wilcox. There's a different shoe needed to support a thermal

In the end, I chose the KVC based on availability, but I don't think you can go wrong with either.

 

[Jgunner]

Is that what we’re calling this one?

Night Vision - Nvision delivers again! New Helmet/weapon mountable therml

www.snipershide.com

Yep!

 

[DoubleHaul]

I was split between the Wilcox 63100G16 and the KVC bridge. The OSS shoes needed for mounting the 14s to the KVC are a separate SKU than the bridge itself, but it still came out slightly under the MSRP of the Wilcox. There's a different shoe needed to support a thermal

In the end, I chose the KVC based on availability, but I don't think you can go wrong with either.
View attachment 7410081View attachment 7410082

That looks like you are running 2x right side OSS shoes (the ones that clamp to the infinite focus stop ring). Is there any reason for that? The OSS shoes should have come as a kit with one ring mount like that for your right eye and one mount that screws into the other side of the 14 and doesn't require a ring. Setup like that your battery compartment will be to your outside on both 14s.

 

[NateSavannah]

or if you get a hyper or vyper chassis you can put dovetails right on them with out the big ol oss shoes. thats my route. 2 hyper14s, with dep ether oculars, with a kac/rqe bridge
.

 

[TheHorta]

If you’re not hunting and clearing structures is something in your wheelhouse, then NV is a must. If you’re taking classes, thermal is not much use. If you can master a single PVS-14 over your non-dominant/non-shooting side, with an IR laser/illuminator on your rifle AND SF Vampire on your pistol, then you can work up to bigger and badder.

Keep it SIMPLE, LIGHT, UNCLUTTERED, and buy the absolute BEST of each particular item.

1) A high-spec L3 Filmless WP PVS-14. 2500 FOM, Low EBI, Small Halo.
2) MAWL C1+. You don’t need a DA, even if you can get one.
3) Surefire WML. I love the new 600DF’s.
4) Crye Nightcap or Quality Bump Helmet with Shroud (if you’re going to use it at work too, then get the bump).
5) Rhino II, Wilcox G11 to save a bit or G24 or INVG if you want to splurge a bit. INVG is The Shizzle for a single PVS-14.
6) Good counterweight, like TNVC Mohawk.
7) Hel-Star visible and IR strobe.
8) X300V or X400V pistol IR/Visible light. The X300V can be had brand new for $220. Highly recommended.
9) 4D Deluxe helmet pads

The MAWL C1+ is expensive. To save $2000, get a TNVC/Steiner TOR IR laser and go with a Surefire M600V “Vampire” Visible/IR WML and a Unity Hot Button. Unfortunately, the TOR does NOT support a remote switch, so you’re gonna have to train with two different buttons, but if I can do it, you definitely can.

Once you get your ensemble sorted, wear it around at night everywhere you go. Let it become transparent, to the point you forget you’re wearing it, and it becomes second nature to you, not just occasionally or at classes. This is the only way to “master” your kit.

Give me a bit to put this all together and take some photos.

This requires CAREFUL, well-thought-out planning, especially if you want to use this at work, too.

 

[verdugo60]

Thanks Horta for the in depth info. Going to research and price all that out.

 

[TheHorta]

Thanks Horta for the in depth info. Going to research and price all that out.

So, within your budget and “mission envelope” I’d recommend the following, or something largely similar — within the listed outline I posted above.

After the pics, I’ll define why I recommend that route, especially when it comes to the Norotos INVG and accompanying Dual Dovetail Arm.

Pics just for Verdugo (‘cuz yer momma always told ya you wuz “Special” )

So, you might be able to immediately see why I recommend the INVG/DDT combination with single monoculars.

Assuming you’re a good ol’ Righty and not one’a them devil-worshipping Lefties that uses his evil hand to do the Lord’s work, the PVS-14 would typically run over your Left Eye, keeping your Right Eye free and night-adapted or for use with White Light when you’re gettin’ your Night Thang on with the local misdemeanorin’ populace.

On the front of the rifle you’ll see the SF WML, Unity Hot Button, and TOR IR Laser. The TOR button is very close to the Hot Button, but it’s actually very difficult to activate the TOR accidentally (and it’s invisible and eye-safe even if you did). Assuming you’d go with a SF M600V White/IR WML, this gives you a very light, simple, compact, functional full-spectrum solution for about $700 total.

DO NOT CHEAP-OUT ON THIS PART!!!
On the melon, pick your bump helmet of choice ($300-500), Deluxe 4D Pad System ($100), INVG Mount ($400), Dual Dovetail Arm ($100), Mohawk Counterweight ($100), Hel-Star Strobe ($300), and whatever Ear Pro you want ($60-500) along with mounting system ($80). All-in, you’re talking around $1,500.

If you skimp on the headgear, it DRAMATICALLY affects your entire kit, hobbling its effectiveness. Pairing sucky headgear/padding/mounting with even the best NODs the world has ever seen is like cutting the two front legs off a Cheetah and wondering why he don’t run so fast no more.

Lastly is the PVS-14 (or Vyper or whatever the cool kids are using these days). Just get a high-spec L3 Filmless WP unit. Anything over 2300 FOM is just fine. Don’t get hung-up on specification bragging rights, after 2000 FOM it’s a diminishing point of returns, to all practical extent. A killer 14/Vyper should run you about $4K, give or take.

Now, onto why the INVG/DDT is the Absolute. Best. Ever. mounting combo for a night vision monocular in the history of the universe:

First, it uses “Force-to-Overcome” (FTO) on multiple axiis instead of the locking button method. Some prefer FTO, some prefer the button. Personally, I’m equally at home with either. What separates the INVG from all others is that the “Horn” also rotates 360* in both directions and it stows a PVS against your helmet very quickly like no other mount — ever. Sometimes you just want to rotate the NOD quicky out of your way, but not fully stow it, and the INVG rocks at this. However, the biggest advantage is the ability to instantly switch eyes in 2 seconds flat! “Why would you want to do that?” you ask. Well, when you want or need to go from active IR laser aiming, which is generally a “blunt” aiming method for close-range shots, to finer, longer-range aiming using your optic, being able to instantly snap the PVS over to your right / shooting eye to view through your Aimpoint/EOTech is Da Nutz. NO other mounting solution offers that capability.

So, all totaled, you’re looking at about $6-6500 for the full kit. A quality thermal monocular will come next, BUT you can get a very solid, very useful 388px AGM handheld thermal spotter for a ridonkulously low price of about $1200. Outside, you’ll be able to DETECT a LOT more with thermal than with top-shelf NV. Even cheap thermal can be a huge advantage.

 

[MtnGhost]

That looks like you are running 2x right side OSS shoes (the ones that clamp to the infinite focus stop ring). Is there any reason for that? The OSS shoes should have come as a kit with one ring mount like that for your right eye and one mount that screws into the other side of the 14 and doesn't require a ring. Setup like that your battery compartment will be to your outside on both 14s.

Yeah, I had to mount it like that intentionally due to an interference issue with a mount that I setup on one of my rifles (Waiting for some parts to show up to resolve).

 

[verdugo60]

@TheHorta, you’re the man brother! Thanks for the pics, my mama DID tell me I was special, lol. Once my demon child is in bed I will delve more into your pics and explanations, again thank you.

For now my question would be weather that mount would be good once I added another 14 or the NOX thermal for dual use?

 

[verdugo60]

And yes I’m right handed, right eye dominant. The setup I would probably run at first would be a 12.5 556 “pistol” that already has a stream light rifle WL with tape switch.
So I would possibly run a Surefire 600V for IR only and maybe a dual switch for whatever laser I end up with.

Does a standard Aimpoint PRO mount sit the optic high enough to use for passive aiming with a 14 on helmet?

 

[TheHorta]

For now my question would be weather that mount would be good once I added another 14 or the NOX thermal for dual use?

You can use it for duals, but it’s not quite as good for binos/dual-band because the “horn” is thick and doesn’t go back quite as far. However, most modern bridges have sufficient rotation in each arm so it works fine.

That said, if you think you will QUICKLY add a second PVS or head mounted thermal, then a G24 is probably the way to go. When I say quickly, I mean within 90 days from your original purchase. Otherwise, the advantages of running a single with the INVG outweigh being without it for any longer period. Good mounts hold most of their value, so you should only lose $100 on the mount. Less if you find a used one. INVG’s have fallen out of vogue because people are opting for dual tubes out of the gate in much higher numbers today, because there are a plethora of options that didn’t exist just a few years ago.

 

[TheHorta]

@TheHorta, you’re the man brother! Thanks for the pics, my mama DID tell me I was special, lol. Once my demon child is in bed I will delve more into your pics and explanations, again thank you.

For now my question would be weather that mount would be good once I added another 14 or the NOX thermal for dual use?

And yes I’m right handed, right eye dominant. The setup I would probably run at first would be a 12.5 556 “pistol” that already has a stream light rifle WL with tape switch.
So I would possibly run a Surefire 600V for IR only and maybe a dual switch for whatever laser I end up with.

Does a standard Aimpoint PRO mount sit the optic high enough to use for passive aiming with a 14 on helmet?

Ok, so I can talk to you then. Granny always told me people who used their left hands weren’t to be trusted and they were destined for hell. Glad to see you won’t be roasting for all eternity.

Regarding the PRO, the standard mount is a bit on the low side, but not horribly so. As you can see in my photos, I opted for the Unity FAST mount, which is designed to be used in conjunction with NV and works MUCH better with the T2 than my old LaRue mount.

Larger tube RDS, like the PRO and Comp, and especially the EOTech EXPS3, work better with NV than the smaller tube stuff, like the T2. I can definitely spot and align the reticle in my EO with my NODs quicker than I can with my T2/Unity.

 

[verdugo60]

Thanks guys for all the input, especially @TheHorta.

I bought a bump helmet, G11 mount and a single 14 (Photonis 4G echo WP setup) from the PX, will arrive this week. Just got 2 Steiner TOR’s on order that should ship this week too.

I’m about to order my Surefire m600V and wondering what tailcap to get to run the Unity tactical hot button?

I’m pumped to start having super powers at night!

 

[TheHorta]

Thanks guys for all the input, especially @TheHorta.

I bought a bump helmet, G11 mount and a single 14 (Photonis 4G echo WP setup) from the PX, will arrive this week. Just got 2 Steiner TOR’s on order that should ship this week too.

I’m about to order my Surefire m600V and wondering what tailcap to get to run the Unity tactical hot button?

I’m pumped to start having super powers at night!

This tailcap:

 

[verdugo60]

Haha, yep that’s what I want Sir, does it have a name?

I’m going to set up my carbine exactly how you have it there (I’m a copying SOB if it works).

How easy do you find it to use the SF for both white light and IR illumition? I’ve heard of guys running two lights, one for IR and one for WL.

 

[Twistid]

A little irrelevant since you've already placed your order but Team Wendy and Galvion both offer killer military discounts for head gear. Don't forget Steiner does as well, I picked up my DBAL D2 for $960ish shipped. No one can touch those prices.

Also before you order your PVS14 shoot an email to all the NV retailers and sone can give you a pretty sweet deal. Some will give you free shipping (Night goggles) while some will work with you to set up what you want (Kosher Surplus/UNV)

 

[verdugo60]

A little irrelevant since you've already placed your order but Team Wendy and Galvion both offer killer military discounts for head gear. Don't forget Steiner does as well, I picked up my DBAL D2 for $$$ shipped. No one can touch those prices.

Also before you order your PVS14 shoot an email to all the NV retailers and sone can give you a pretty sweet deal. Some will give you free shipping (Night goggles) while some will work with you to set up what you want (Kosher Surplus/UNV)

Thanks for the heads up man, I appreciate it! I’ll look at the DBAL D2, I know that’s a go-to for many, how do you like it?

Not to be a dick but you might want to take the LE price down since it’s an open forum, most companies don’t like their LE/MIL prices posted and I try to honor that since they’re helping us out.

Take care and be safe.

 

[TheHorta]

Haha, yep that’s what I want Sir, does it have a name?

I’m going to set up my carbine exactly how you have it there (I’m a copying SOB if it works).

How easy do you find it to use the SF for both white light and IR illumition? I’ve heard of guys running two lights, one for IR and one for WL.

Here ya be, matey:

As far as running two separate lights, you only need it if you need to switch between white/visible and IR illumination instantly. If you have 3 seconds to spare to turn the Vampire head from one to the other, no need for dual lights. Saves space and weight and no risk of accidentally hitting one when you meant to hit the other.

 

[WhereNow&How]

Sometimes you just want to rotate the NOD quicky out of your way, but not fully stow it, and the INVG rocks at this. However, the biggest advantage is the ability to instantly switch eyes in 2 seconds flat! “Why would you want to do that?” you ask. Well, when you want or need to go from active IR laser aiming, which is generally a “blunt” aiming method for close-range shots, to finer, longer-range aiming using your optic, being able to instantly snap the PVS over to your right / shooting eye to view through your Aimpoint/EOTech is Da Nutz. NO other mounting solution offers that capability.

Horta, this Mod Armory J arm is just as fast going right to left eye and does the instant eye switch in actually 1.639 seconds flat as well, so I beg to differ that no other mounting solution offers that capability.

Slap it on a Rhino 2 with Dovetail and it is also folds back and lays right against your Crye Nightcap or helmet more compact than most anything out there.

ANPVS-14 J Arm Adapter with NVG Dovetail Shoe or Bayonet Interface - MOD Armory

ANPVS-14 J Arm Adapter with NVG Dovetail Shoe or Bayonet Interface provides a durable connection for mounting an AN/PVS14 goggle to a Helmet Mount.

www.modarmory.com

 

[WhereNow&How]

What say ye? Is the KAC bridge the best to connect two monoculars?

The Mod Armory Light Weight Bridge is stronger, simpler, more durable and lower cost. Best mount out there for pairing two PVS 14's and also works well pairing a PVS 14 and a Breach Thermal. Mod says on its website it is not compatible with the Breach but I know how to flip the Breach arm around and make it compatible with the Light Weight Mount. I'm a good redneck engineer. You can also properly mount a COTI system when using this bridge. Other bridges, not so much.

The KAC is overengineered, many wear points that will get sloppy with extended use, heavier and way more expensive. YMMV.

Night Vision Helmet Mount Dual PVS-14 Light Weight Mounting System

Night Vision Helmet Mount Dual PVS-14 Light Weight Mounting System offers an adaptable system to be configured for dual tube technology.

www.modarmory.com

 

[TheHorta]

Horta, this Mod Armory J arm is just as fast going right to left eye and does the instant eye switch in actually 1.639 seconds flat as well, so I beg to differ that no other mounting solution offers that capability.

Slap it on a Rhino 2 with Dovetail and it is also folds back and lays right against your Crye Nightcap or helmet more compact than most anything out there.

ANPVS-14 J Arm Adapter with NVG Dovetail Shoe or Bayonet Interface - MOD Armory

ANPVS-14 J Arm Adapter with NVG Dovetail Shoe or Bayonet Interface provides a durable connection for mounting an AN/PVS14 goggle to a Helmet Mount.

www.modarmory.com

Looks a lot like the Wilcox J-Arm. Loves me some WJA

Yours looks good, but OP ain’t gay, and INVG is manly phallic testosterone Night Operator.

Need I say more?

 

[WhereNow&How]

Looks a lot like the Wilcox J-Arm. Loves me some WJA

Yours looks good, but OP ain’t gay, and INVG is manly phallic testosterone Night Operator.

Need I say more?

Simmer down. You gonna get Elite all worked up.

 

[TheHorta]

The Mod Armory Light Weight Bridge is stronger, simpler, more durable and lower cost. Best mount out there for pairing two PVS 14's and also works well pairing a PVS 14 and a Breach Thermal. You can also properly mount a COTI system when using this bridge. Other bridges, not so much.

The KAC is overengineered, many wear points that will get sloppy with extended use, heavier and way more expensive. YMMV.

Night Vision Helmet Mount Dual PVS-14 Light Weight Mounting System

Night Vision Helmet Mount Dual PVS-14 Light Weight Mounting System offers an adaptable system to be configured for dual tube technology.

www.modarmory.com

I love the KAC/RQE, and it’s definitely the choice for dual Skeets, but I’ve had the MA Dual PVS-14 bridge for 5-6 years now, and it’s super simple and works perfectly for that application. Mine won’t lockup with any genuine Wilcox shoe, so I could never use it with anything else, sadly. It must be one of those “out of spec” early units. It was about $500. Back in the day. Not sure what they’re selling for now.

 

[WhereNow&How]

I love the KAC/RQE, and it’s definitely the choice for dual Skeets, but I’ve had the MA Dual PVS-14 bridge for 5-6 years now, and it’s super simple and works perfectly for that application. Mine won’t lockup with any genuine Wilcox shoe, so I could never use it with anything else, sadly. It must be one of those “out of spec” early units. It was about $500. Back in the day. Not sure what they’re selling for now.

All of mine lock up with Wilcox shoes and I have a total of about 9 Mod Armory Bridges. FYI, it is simple to change out the dovetail on the Mod Bridges. Undo the screw and it comes off. Call Nicole and get her to send you another shoe for it.

You must have the Quick Detach Version. They run about $575. I have 2 of those and 7 of the Light Weight Versions. I prefer the Light Weight Version. That bridge is tiny and super strong with Zero wiggle which makes for a hell of a nice bridging of 2 PVS 14's or a 14 and Breach and they are only $350.

 

[TheHorta]

All of mine lock up with Wilcox shoes and I have a total of about 9 Mod Armory Bridges. FYI, it is simple to change out the dovetail on the Mod Bridges. Undo the screw and it comes off. Call Nicole and get her to send you another shoe for it.

You must have the Quick Detach Version. They run about $575. I have 2 of those and 7 of the Light Weight Versions. I prefer the Light Weight Version. That bridge is tiny and super strong with Zero wiggle which makes for a hell of a nice bridging of 2 PVS 14's or a 14 and Breach and they are only $350.

I should specify, this is the two shoe recepticles on the bridge for the PVS arms. They won’t accept any Wilcox shoes. I tried to put Skeets, UTMs, etc in there and nothing locks-up.

 

[Twistid]

Isn't this the one necessary to use the beach?

Night Vision Helmet Mount IC D-14 Dual PVS-14 - MOD Armory

Integrated Components Night Vision Helmet Mount D-14 Dual PVS-14 Mounting System™ offers an adaptable system that can be configured as single or dual.

www.modarmory.com

 

[WhereNow&How]

I should specify, this is the two shoe recepticles on the bridge for the PVS arms. They won’t accept any Wilcox shoes. I tried to put Skeets, UTMs, etc in there and nothing locks-up.

Ah, I understand now. Yeah I think the newer receptacles have an adjustment in them if I remember correctly. Never had to mess with mine. They are there for if you ever get any wobble in the system you can tighten it up IIRC. Both of my Quick Detach's are on loan out to some of my buds. I run just the light weights now. I am the loan shop around my buds.

 

[WhereNow&How]

Isn't this the one necessary to use the beach?

Night Vision Helmet Mount IC D-14 Dual PVS-14 - MOD Armory

Integrated Components Night Vision Helmet Mount D-14 Dual PVS-14 Mounting System™ offers an adaptable system that can be configured as single or dual.

www.modarmory.com

Correct. It is a plug and play. I can make the Breach work on the Light Weight also, but most people probably can not so they one you linked is the one you would need to buy.

 

[verdugo60]

I have only a vague idea of what you guys are talking about, I will have the Wilcox G11 that will come as part of the setup I bought so hopefully it will make sense once I get that in and mess with it.

Good news is mod armory is just down the road from me 45 minutes in CO Springs so maybe I can go to their show room and get sorted out once everything’s in.

Still wondering what would be better, a DBAL D2 or the Steiner TOR combined with a Surefire m600V like @TheHorta’s setup as far as frickin’ lasers?

anyways, carry on, I just want to be a not-gay manly night operator.

 

[jeffl838]

If you're just training shooting, you won't need a thermal - but a thermal is a game changer for fighting. The first part of a small arms kill chain is detection and nothing beats thermal for detection, even in cqb scenarios. Something to consider.

If you don't see yourself doing athletic things at nigh a pvs14 is fine honestly. You wouldn't even miss binos if you're just doing slow overland navigation and flat range shooting.

I like the TOR a lot in principal but am personally married to 12 o clock tape switches for my laser. I like the Holosun LE221R a lot, and they have a military discount that's killer.

I see that you're considering a dual switch. Up for debate on importance, but I'm not a fan of them because you can't hit both switches at once (easily). I would recommend your laser at the 12 and all the way forward, and a switch for it at the 12 o clock and your light switch at the 4:30 (if you're right handed). If you have a super short rail, mount your laser at the 12 and all the way forward and use the button on the laser as your switch, but your day time grip will have to be a little different because your thumb will obstruct your optic when shooting like that. I think being able to hit both is important because access to more illumination is sometimes important to be able to see and seeing is important.

I would consider getting the surefire tailcap that also has a button. Otherwise, you won't have a method for constant on unless you get the click switch thing (which is an option).

I'm glad to hear that aviators are getting better night vision. I've done missions where I had better NVG's than the crew and I could see them making poor decisions but they couldn't see and didn't know any better.

 

[WhereNow&How]

I will have the Wilcox G11 that will come as part of the setup I bought so hopefully it will make sense once I get that in and mess with it.

I would ditch the Wilcox G11. It is a bayonet interface. You would be much better off going Dovetail. Go on Ebay and buy a Norotos Rhino 2 for about $65 to $85 and then put a Norotos PVS 15/18 Dovetail socket on it. All in cost is less than $150 bucks and you have a rock solid mount then that will properly lock up the most favored systems out there.

Norotos PVS-15/ PVS-18 Socket

PVS-15/ PVS-18 Socket for Norotos AKA2 Mount

tnvc.com

 

[WhereNow&How]

If you're just training shooting, you won't need a thermal - but a thermal is a game changer for fighting. The first part of a small arms kill chain is detection and nothing beats thermal for detection, even in cqb scenarios. Something to consider.

That is the clearest to the point way I have ever seen it stated.

 

[cruiserweight]

If you're just training shooting, you won't need a thermal - but a thermal is a game changer for fighting. The first part of a small arms kill chain is detection and nothing beats thermal for detection, even in cqb scenarios. Something to consider.

And here I was about to go with filmless DTNVG's...now I'm considering a PVS-14/chinaskeet combo instead, or two PVS-14's and a COTI. Too many options, too much money.

The only time I every used thermals was for scanning for threats while in a patrol base or something, and the old one's had terrible battery life. But if this is the way of the future, no reason to get DTNVG's for a shitload of money just for flat range theatrics when the dual-band setup appears to be the real world winner. Plan would be thermal on non-dominant eye, PVS-14 on dominant eye for passive aiming through eotech etc.

 

[GBMaryland]

Have been lurking for years, about ready to spend 4-6K on my first NV/Thermal.

I have long been considering starting with a gen 3 PVS-14 and helmet setup and possibly adding a second 14 or thermal like the one coming in November that’s a clip on site or can be bridged.

I am LE but this is mostly for personal use. If you had 4-6K to start with what would you get?

My uses are primarily for training/shooting carbines at night, might try to hunt some yotes or pigs down the road eventually. I have a carbine with an aimpoint pro and white light for home defense, would like to set up 1-2 AR’s with??? DBAL, IR illuminator, etc?

I know it’s easy to drop a ton into this but I basically want to increase my night navigation and operational ability for both urban and rural environments. Watch the news to know why, lol. Stargazing and hikes are night would be fun side benefits.

Would I save money getting two 14’s at the same time from a vendor here? Are dedicated binos a better idea if I might want thermal down the road? I know I can’t touch Thermal and NV together for that budget, just trying to buy smart and think ahead if things stay “normal” a while longer and I can buy more stuff later.

Wait another 6 months... there appear to be alot of things coming out, and you will have some pretty great options.

 

[TheHorta]

.
I would consider getting the surefire tailcap that also has a button. Otherwise, you won't have a method for constant on unless you get the click switch thing (which is an option).

Hot Button (what he’s looking at) has momentary and constant-on click.

 

[Twistid]

Correct. It is a plug and play. I can make the Breach work on the Light Weight also, but most people probably can not so they one you linked is the one you would need to buy.

Well what is the process if you don't mind sharing? I'm confused why you would deliberately link the "wrong" one and say it can work but then go on to say most people can't and should just buy the correct one.

 

[verdugo60]

I’ll be playing with this setup and looking at thermal next, I can see the value of it as far as detection for sure.

I’ll look into various other mounting platforms too, spent my wad for now but there is always tomorrow, lol.

This setup will get me started and get me capabilities 95% of populace doesn’t have. Thanks again for all the input guys.

 

[WhereNow&How]

Well what is the process if you don't mind sharing? I'm confused why you would deliberately link the "wrong" one and say it can work but then go on to say most people can't and should just buy the correct one.

I have a narrow IPD. A big headed person with wide IPD might not be able to make it work like I can. Plus some people whine about all kind of stuff like Collimation etc that at the end of the day is making a mountain out of a mole hill.

So the Quick Disconnect has a wider range of adjustment vs the Light Weight Bridge when talking about mounting a Breach. So for most play it safe and go with the Quick Disconnect Bridge or you can do like me and learn to surf on 5 toes instead of 10.