just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

[snobound]

first off I am new to this forum so bear with me.

I am going to start reloading 338 LM but after hours of research I get more confused on the tools and dies I need to get.
I have done some reloading with a buddy of mine but nothing that will be this exact.

I want to get the Redding Series A Deluxe Rifle Three-Die Set, that includes the FL die, bullet seating die, and the neck sizing die..
My questions are why do I need the neck sizing die? I thought the FL die took care of working the full case back to shape.

And I see getting neck sizing bushings, I don't really know what all of that means.

I have the knowledge of cutting the case to 2.714, setting the bullet just off the lands, but the bumping the shoulder back and stuff I thought was done buy the regular die?

And advice would be great, I understand most of it but need help in a few areas

 

[ChrisGarrett]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: snobound</div><div class="ubbcode-body">first off I am new to this forum so bear with me.

I am going to start reloading 338 LM but after hours of research I get more confused on the tools and dies I need to get.
I have done some reloading with a buddy of mine but nothing that will be this exact.

I want to get the Redding Series A Deluxe Rifle Three-Die Set, that includes the FL die, bullet seating die, and the neck sizing die..
My questions are why do I need the neck sizing die? I thought the FL die took care of working the full case back to shape.

And I see getting neck sizing bushings, I don't really know what all of that means.

I have the knowledge of cutting the case to 2.714, setting the bullet just off the lands, but the bumping the shoulder back and stuff I thought was done buy the regular die?

And advice would be great, I understand most of it but need help in a few areas </div></div>

First of all, welcome aboard. The 338LM loads just like any other cartridge, except that there's upwards of 100grs of powder not more than five inches away from your face when things go boom, so don't screw up.

Secondly, if you read the first ten pages of this board, you'll probably find 20-30 threads on loading the 338LM.

Get a Redding body die and get the Redding S neck bushing sizing die and their .365" TiNi coated bushing. The body die will allow you to bump your shoulders back, when needed.

If you have some money, invest in their Competition micro seating die and call it a day.

2.714" is the 'trim to' length, but depending on your chamber, you might be able to let them 'grow' a bit, but that's a discussion for another day.

I think that max case length is 2.724".

Chris

 

[snobound]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

I was under the impression that the neck sizing die came in that kit I mentioned earlier?

as far as there comp seating die goes, is this a must or just an easier way to set the bullet to the same depth every time?

And lastly I have been reading that ppl are pushing the 100gr mark with there loads, and from my reloading book that is well above the max powder charge they recommend. am I missing something..
And lastly head spacing... AKA bumping the shoulder back. once a round is fired and form fit to the chamber, bumping it back .002 seems like an almost impossible job? or am I over thinking things?

 

[ChrisGarrett]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: snobound</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was under the impression that the neck sizing die came in that kit I mentioned earlier?

<span style="color: #3333FF">There are standard neck sizers that don't use interchangeable bushings and then there are the S bushing dies, both neck and FL, that do.</span>

as far as there comp seating die goes, is this a must or just an easier way to set the bullet to the same depth every time?

<span style="color: #3333FF">You can seat bullets with standard seaters, but the Comp seater is worth the money, unless you don't have the extra cash to blow on one.</span>

And lastly I have been reading that ppl are pushing the 100gr mark with there loads, and from my reloading book that is well above the max powder charge they recommend. am I missing something..
And lastly head spacing... AKA bumping the shoulder back. once a round is fired and form fit to the chamber, bumping it back .002 seems like an almost impossible job? or am I over thinking things?

<span style="color: #3333FF">Remember, different manuals arrive at different numbers.

You're new to reloading and while the 338LM isn't all that different, you're playing with a lot of powder.

For setting headspace for your sizing dies, do yourself a favor and buy the Hornady headspace gage set. This will allow you to set proper headspace for all of your bottleneck rifle cartridges.

It's worth the $45, trust me.</span></div></div>

Chris

 

[snobound]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

Thanks chris, you helped me figure a few things out. I have found it tuff on this site to get new member questions answered.

so thank you again, still nervous about going that high in powder grains, I will have to try find where ppl are getting these numbers

 

[ksthomas]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

snobound,

I'll echo most of what Chris has already advised here, but might expand on just a few things. I'd suggest saving a few $ and skipping the neck sizing die altogether. Not a fan, it invites some added problems that there's no point in experiencing, and brings nothing else to the party. He's absolutely right about getting (and using) a headspace gage of some sort to set your dies and ensure that you're setting the shoulders back correctly. Personally, I really like the Redding Type S bushing dies (Full Length), but would suggest getting the bushings at least .001" above and below the size you determine to be correct, just to give yourself some wiggle room to experiment with neck tension a bit. Never bad to have on hand if you change lots of brass, either.

The 338 LM is actually a very easy cartridge to work with. It's big, but it's a very tractable cartridge. Easy to come up with good, accurate loads, not too touchy and fairly predictable. If you need data, that's not a problem at all. You can find our loading data listed on our website, www.lapua.com to get you started. Welcome aboard, and don't hesitate to ask questions if you encounter something you're not sure of. Never a problem!

 

[Sniper Uncle]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

Snobound, both Chris and Kevin have given you first-rate advice. I reload and shoot 338LM also. I have 4 reloading manuals, and use Quick-Load, a computer program, for powder charge numbers. I also check on manufacturer websites. Numbers can vary widely, as there are many powders and bullets available, as well as many guns and barrels which like different things.
I highly recommend that you read carefully, even a couple times, the Reloading series of posts by TresMon. He does a fantastic job of explaining procedures. He also tells how to do a "ladder test" to find "accuracy nodes" and max pressure for a given powder type and bullet combo for your rifle. Follow his instruction, and you wont be sorry. Don't ever just use a "max" rated load in your rifle. It may be too high for your rifle. Start low and work up.
Lots of people on here are very willing to contribute ideas and info. Read it carefully, and weed out the "non-applicable" stuff.
Happy Reloading!

 

[ChrisGarrett]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: snobound</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Thanks chris, you helped me figure a few things out. I have found it tuff on this site to get new member questions answered.

so thank you again, still nervous about going that high in powder grains, I will have to try find where ppl are getting these numbers
</div></div>


Don't worry about what 'other' people are doing, worry about what you'll be doing going forward.

It's your face, your fingers and your weapon.

Kevin brings up a good point about just going with a FL bushing sizing die, as it's a bit more 'idiot-proof' and it would be faster on a single stage press.

I have a FL bushing die, but using a Dillon 550b, it's easy for me to drop in my body die and bump what I need bumped, without upsetting the entire apple cart.

I mostly neck size anyhow and have a good 10, 12 and 13 cycles on most of my Lapua brand brass after 7 years, so I must be doing something right?

Anyhow, read the threads.

You don't mention any particulars about your weapon, or reloading components, so it's tough to nail things down.

Noobs need to be specific when posting here, without writing a novella.

Chris

 

[snobound]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

sorry, very basic description of what I have to shoot is a..

Savage 110BA .338LM

The first box of ammo I got is factory Lapua 250gr FMJBT's

Only box my dealer had and I got them just because of the lapua brass.

I will have a single stage press and will be going with the redding bushing FL die after your guys advice. And maybe comp seating die

Question... The FL bushing die does/doesn't come with the bushings?

And what are your thoughts on reddings comp shell holders?

 

[ksthomas]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

Snobound,
no, none of them do, due to the fact that they don't know what size you'll need. Vary's from make to make, so you'll need to determine the correct one for yourself. Normally, that means measuring the neck diameter of a loaded rouind, and selecting a bushing that's .001" to .002" below that figure. As I mentioned, you might want to get some extras to bracket that a bit, to allow for some experimentation.

 

[Sniper Uncle]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: snobound</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> sorry, very basic description of what I have to shoot is a..

Savage 110BA .338LM

The first box of ammo I got is factory Lapua 250gr FMJBT's

Only box my dealer had and I got them just because of the lapua brass.

I will have a single stage press and will be going with the redding bushing FL die after your guys advice. And maybe comp seating die

Question... The FL bushing die does/doesn't come with the bushings?

And what are your thoughts on reddings comp shell holders?</div></div>
Yeah, get the competition seating die, as long as it has the micrometer. (Not familiar with redding dies.)
Bushing dies don't come with bushings, as the ones you need will be your choice, based on application, desired neck tension, and possibly brass choice. I got the .365, .366, and the .364 bushings for mine, as this is plenty. Chris suggests the .365 bushing above, so that is probably all you really need. Lapua, Nosler, and Hornady brass for the 338LM all have 14.5 thousandths nominal case neck thickness, so the .365 will probably do for you for starters.

Wish I could remember the thread, but I read something about the Savage 110BA and its chamber size---seems that it was a little different than many others---might want to check into that, so you can modify now you set up your dies to minimize brass work and extend life. Maybe you could chime in here, Chris?

 

[ChrisGarrett]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: snobound</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> sorry, very basic description of what I have to shoot is a..

Savage 110BA .338LM

<span style="color: #3333FF">Keep an eye out on fired cases sticking in the chamber and being hard to extract</span>.

The first box of ammo I got is factory Lapua 250gr FMJBT's

Only box my dealer had and I got them just because of the lapua brass.


<span style="color: #3333FF">The 250gr FMJ/BTs shoot pretty well. I load some up from time to time. At least you'll have 1x Lapua brand brass to work with.</span>

I will have a single stage press and will be going with the redding bushing FL die after your guys advice. And maybe comp seating die

<span style="color: #3333FF">This is probably a better idea for somebody new to reloading, although the body die/neck die option isn't all that difficult.</span>

Question... The FL bushing die does/doesn't come with the bushings?

<span style="color: #3333FF">No, they don't and I found out the hard way, years ago.

The two appropriate Redding bushings for Lapua brand brass, that I know of, are their .364" TiNi and .365" TiNi. I think that they make a .366" Steel bushing, but I'm not sure. I rarely use my .364" TiNi bushing for my Lapua/Norma brass, but I have one.</span>

And what are your thoughts on reddings comp shell holders?

<span style="color: #3333FF">Since I use a Dillon 550b, I'm not buying SS shellholders, but I know about the competition Redding versions and they seem like a good idea on paper, but if you're getting the Hornady Headspace gage set, you probably don't need to buy the comp. holders because you'll be locking that die ring down, once you find the proper headspace for your BA-110.

You're probably not going to need to bump headspace through the shellholder, all that much. Put the money saved on the SHs, into the Competition seater.</span> </div></div>

Chris

 

[snobound]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

quick question on the bushings that I will need, I need to measure the neck before or after I fire the bullet to check what size I need?

I just fired it for the fist time today, just to start breaking in the barrel. so I do have a once fired shell

 

[snobound]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

and I would assume after I find my neck size the bushings I need would be .001-.002 smaller?

 

[arbogb06]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

I do not mean to tread on the OP's thread, but I am also starting to reload for a .338 LM and was wondering if anyone weighs there brass and sorts them. I read somewhere where people do this. I get the idea behind it somewhat because I am assuming a heavier brass that is the same specs has less voulme in the case which would create more pressure but is this really necessary? I can see weighing the bullets and measureing the diameter, length etc, but cannot see why the weight of the brass would affect the accuracy. Any insight?

Thanks and once again sorry to intrude.

 

[Sniper Uncle]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: arbogb06</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I do not mean to tread on the OP's thread, but I am also starting to reload for a .338 LM and was wondering if anyone weighs there brass and sorts them. I read somewhere where people do this. I get the idea behind it somewhat because I am assuming a heavier brass that is the same specs has less voulme in the case which would create more pressure but is this really necessary? I can see weighing the bullets and measureing the diameter, length etc, but cannot see why the weight of the brass would affect the accuracy. Any insight?

Thanks and once again sorry to intrude. </div></div>

The theory is that sorting cases by weight can help with sorting volume, like you thought. However, many posters on this forum say that if you use good brass, ie. Lapua or Norma, the differences in volume are negligible. Then there are those purists who insist that perfection needs attention to even this detail. I, for one, am concentrating on my personal shooting skills long before I try for this little detail. I doubt that I can shoot well enough to see the difference here.

 

[Sniper Uncle]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: snobound</div><div class="ubbcode-body">quick question on the bushings that I will need, I need to measure the neck before or after I fire the bullet to check what size I need?

I just fired it for the fist time today, just to start breaking in the barrel. so I do have a once fired shell</div></div>

Did you measure any before you shot them? They say to measure the diameter with a loaded round, and subtract .001 or.002---generally .002. Another way to go is to say .338 + .0145 +.0145 = .367 -.002 =.365 for bushing size. That is bullet diameter plus twice the brass case neck thickness, minus two thousandths, equals your bushing size. Then, you might want to have one either side for changing tension, or for different case thickness. Lapua, Hornady, and Nosler brass are .0145" case neck thickness (x2 for two sides).

 

[varmint slayer]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

If you are going to be using Lapua brass get .365 TiNi bushing. It will give you the .002 you are looking for.

 

[snobound]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

The factory Lapua ammo when measured was .366 and after I shot expanded to .369

 

[ChrisGarrett]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: snobound</div><div class="ubbcode-body">quick question on the bushings that I will need, I need to measure the neck before or after I fire the bullet to check what size I need?

I just fired it for the fist time today, just to start breaking in the barrel. so I do have a once fired shell </div></div>

I'm giving you the answer.

Neck walls on Lapua brass aren't perfect and unless you have a precise way to measure neck wall thickness, you're going to be imprecise with any derived number.

If you turned your necks, you could measure a loaded round and be fairly comfortable with your measurement being valid.

If you can only buy one bushing for the 338LM and you're going to be shooting Lapua brand brass, it's the .365" bushing, or if you want a bit more grip on the bullet, their .364" bushing.

.365" works nicely on my Norma brass, as well.

Let's move onto the next challenge.

Chris

 

[oneshot.onehit]

Re: just getting into 338LM reloading, advice needed

You are always more then welcome to drive a few hours south and spend an afternoon working with some equipment, procedures/ practices to get yourself familiar with some on hands experience prepping and loading the 338 LM

North Central WI.

Barrett 338LM capable ¼ moa rifle
Somewhere around 1200 plus rounds through it
Running
Lapua Brass
300 grain Scenars
H1000
Federal Primers

Some of the equipment used
Redding T7 press, RCBS gold medal dies, RCBS power trimmer, Lyman Dispenser and prep station, Bench Source annealer


And a nice range out to 823

If anything at all from all the advice passed on the equipment options are good, but whatever powder variety you pick that is recommended for the 338LM, start out 10% lower from what is the max is listed in that particular powder and bullet weight in the reloading manuals and work your way up in one grain increments with the 338LM. Watch for your pressure signs to start and accuracy nodes don’t focus on high speed FPS reading and what someone else was using. Every gun is different to a certain point find what yours likes that’s accurate but within a safe range for powder and pressure. Also keep in mind your in a frigid region now, so what’s on the edge of being hot today yet very accurate could work against you come this summer if your shooting a day long event and it 80 degrees or hotter out.


oneshot.onehit