So just picked upa Bergara B-14 HMR in 6.5 Creedmoor. For the optic I picked up a Vortex Viper HS-T 4-16x44mm. Hoping this will be a great rifle to get me into some precision shooting. Any advice tips or need to know information for this setup as I start down this reoad?
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Just Picked up a Bergara B-14 HMR
- Thread starter SnyperX
- Start date
Just realize that you'll make plenty of poor choices that will serve as great learning tools along your journey, and don't get down on yourself when it happens.
The most common issues are loose optic rails and loose action screws - even if it came with an optic rail from the factory, pull it, degrease the threads, and torque back down to spec. When you've got the torque wrench out, pull the stock off and lightly sand off any oversprayed paint from the bedding area, especially up front. Lots of threads on that paint, I'm still halfway convinced folks just had loose action screws, but others swear it was removing the oversprayed paint that solved their issues.
Well that’s a bit of a puch in the gut. $600 was my upper limit for an optic and I have a number of Vortex optics i have been happy with. What makes this a “throw away” optic at $600??
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I sold the brand new in box one that I was sent after it broke.
Mine always had crappy turrets that would spin from a stiff breeze.
SFP will be ok when you're learning, but just remember the reticle is useless at anything except the specific power it's set up for. (16x in your case).
I tried running it in NRL when I first wanted to try it out. Had a ton of misses with sfp and had to dial everything. Might as well not even had a reticle.
I only paid $400 for my hs-t and I still thought I overpaid. I can't believe they're still selling them.
You live and you learn. Browse the optics section for all the guys arguing about the best $5-600 scopes. Sell and upgrade when you can.
Bin the scope.
600 bucks doesn't get you far so save up a bit.
Look out for a used Bushnell elite tactical like a dmr or xrs, they often go up for sale for great prices as Bushnell is seen as a crappy budget brand. The elite tac models are made in Japan and are excellent for the money and I'd recommend them over any vortex save the razor line. I bet you could find a gently used dmr2 or xrs2 for under a grand and it would be 10x the optic the hst is. You also won't lose much money on resale as it's gonna be fully depreciated by now now or less. Their warranty is good too but you likely won't need it with the elite tac line as they are durable well built units. Any of the newer bushnell elite tactical ffp mil mil scopes will be a great choice.
If you can't do that then get an swfa 10x and ammo. The swfa is a perfectly usable scope at distance, tracks great and retains zero. Lot of people started with one. It's not fashionable but function often isn't. The cheaper feature laden scopes give up a lot in terms of durability to hit their price points.
Invest in a quality mounting system. MDT, Nightforce, Badger ordnance, seekins, ARC.. to name a few brands. And a torque screwdriver to ensure its mounted correctly in that system. You'll use this on all your firearms and maybe some other stuff too so it's good to have.
Torque everything more than once as hardware stretches and will loosen over time. Keep an eye on it and retorque as needed, action screws especially. Blue Loctite I can recommend too. On all scope mounting hardware. You want zero movement in your system. Every last variable you can get rid of will help.. You aren't just bolting parts together you are building a system so it all has to work together.
Taking the time to set the rifle up thoroughly will save you a lot of money and time at the range chasing wandering zeros, loose bolts and such. Recheck before each range session for peace of mind.
If your entire shooting system is torqued to the same figure every time, the optic is a quality piece that holds its zero and adjusts accurately and the rifle is fed quality ammunition that is known to be consistent and contain a proven projectile... then the only other real variable is your skill as a shooter.
600 bucks doesn't get you far so save up a bit.
Look out for a used Bushnell elite tactical like a dmr or xrs, they often go up for sale for great prices as Bushnell is seen as a crappy budget brand. The elite tac models are made in Japan and are excellent for the money and I'd recommend them over any vortex save the razor line. I bet you could find a gently used dmr2 or xrs2 for under a grand and it would be 10x the optic the hst is. You also won't lose much money on resale as it's gonna be fully depreciated by now now or less. Their warranty is good too but you likely won't need it with the elite tac line as they are durable well built units. Any of the newer bushnell elite tactical ffp mil mil scopes will be a great choice.
If you can't do that then get an swfa 10x and ammo. The swfa is a perfectly usable scope at distance, tracks great and retains zero. Lot of people started with one. It's not fashionable but function often isn't. The cheaper feature laden scopes give up a lot in terms of durability to hit their price points.
Invest in a quality mounting system. MDT, Nightforce, Badger ordnance, seekins, ARC.. to name a few brands. And a torque screwdriver to ensure its mounted correctly in that system. You'll use this on all your firearms and maybe some other stuff too so it's good to have.
Torque everything more than once as hardware stretches and will loosen over time. Keep an eye on it and retorque as needed, action screws especially. Blue Loctite I can recommend too. On all scope mounting hardware. You want zero movement in your system. Every last variable you can get rid of will help.. You aren't just bolting parts together you are building a system so it all has to work together.
Taking the time to set the rifle up thoroughly will save you a lot of money and time at the range chasing wandering zeros, loose bolts and such. Recheck before each range session for peace of mind.
If your entire shooting system is torqued to the same figure every time, the optic is a quality piece that holds its zero and adjusts accurately and the rifle is fed quality ammunition that is known to be consistent and contain a proven projectile... then the only other real variable is your skill as a shooter.
I've had one of those scopes before and sold it off. While it worked ok for me at the time, I needed something FFP and having that at max zoom wasn't working all the time for what I wanted. Check out the Strike Eagle 5-25x56 FFP. While not razor quality (I have both Gen 2 and Gen 3), it's a better optic than the HS-T.
$600 has to work as that's my budget. I looked a Burris and a Leopold and the Vortex had the better glass for me. I wish I could spend $3k on an optic, but that's just not practical being this will be for target shooting and some hunting. It should also be mentioned that I am in the Midwest and have only a single range past 1,000 yards and I won't even be able to shoot at because of dues and waiting list. Most of my shooting "might" be out to 500 yards.
You can shoot the hst just fine for what you describe, we all started like that. The main issue imo is it’s been overpriced ed at $400 for years now yet you spent 600 on it. If it’s unmounted and you can return it I would for something a bit more feature rich from this decade.
But I’d you just want to go bang then by all means use it. The elevation dial works, it’s just the reticle is second focal plain so the reticle measurements won’t always equal what you need to dial on the turret depending on magnification, just a consideration and not an obstacle.
But I’d you just want to go bang then by all means use it. The elevation dial works, it’s just the reticle is second focal plain so the reticle measurements won’t always equal what you need to dial on the turret depending on magnification, just a consideration and not an obstacle.
Torquing everything more than once is how fasteners end up to tight and broken with a torque wrench. I. E going around clicking your torque wrench on all your already tight bolts is going to lead to problems when done over and over. Fastener stretch is considered when making torque values for bolts. Tightening them beyond this point is called "torque to yield." Fasteners tightened in this fashion are replaced after 1 use because they have been stretched beyond there plastic state and have become permanently elongated. If the fasteners with loctite tight move then the loctite bond has been broken.
Interesting. I know the HS is around $400 and the HS-T around $600. I have the HS-T version. I did get 10% off so I paid like $540 for it. Maybe I just suck is up and get a PST GEN II for like $1000. Makes my stomach hurt.....LOL.
Pst gen2 is a sub 600 scope too. Visit the hide vendors and shop around for deals. Cameralandny and liberty optics are my two gotos for bargains.
And watch the parts exchange at the bottom of the main forum page for used stuff.
So it seems camaralandny no longer carries Vortex and Liberty Optics is no cheaper than Cabela's at $999 for the model I want. I guess I keep looking.
Used/second hand is your ticket when it comes to optics.
For example:
www.snipershide.com
For example:
Optics - Bushnell 6-24x50 G2 FFP
Bushnell 6-24x50 G2 FFP BT6245FG- LN mount never shoot. Box, caps, paper work - $650 shipped
www.snipershide.com
Ok so the Gen I PST is around $400-$500. The Gen II PST is still $999 almost everywhere. From my understanding the Viper PST Gen I and my current Viper HS-T are essentially the same glass.
Used/second hand is your ticket when it comes to optics.
For example:
Optics - Bushnell 6-24x50 G2 FFP
Bushnell 6-24x50 G2 FFP BT6245FG- LN mount never shoot. Box, caps, paper work - $650 shipped
Gotta say man, buying used optics gives me the willies. Was it dropped? Banged around in a truck? Turrets titty twisted around? I get the saving potential though.
The price on the Liberty page is not the actual price. When you order they will send you an invoice with the real price.
I'd skip the PST Gen 1. Are you MIL or LEO or first responder? If so, give Sport Optics a call. They can get you a really good discount off the MSRP. The Strike Eagle 5-25x56 FFP (and 3-18x44 FFP) has good glass (better than PST Gen 1 and HS series) and a really nice feature set for the money. I have the 5-25x56 FFP and it's hard to tell a difference to the PST Gen 2. I'd be concerned about buying a used optic, unless it was a Vortex. Their VIP warranty doesn't consider if you bought it used or new.
I am a big Vortex fan and their warranty. Not to mention their HQ is only like 45 minutes away from me.
I am a big Vortex fan and their warranty. Not to mention their HQ is only like 45 minutes away from me.
Nice!
PST G2 > SWFA
I've owned multiple versions of both, maybe 5 of the PST G2, 3 SWFAs
The SWFAs track well, but the glass is terrible.
The PST G2s are not as durable, but they track decently and the glass is much easier on the eyes in terms of strain.
I've owned multiple versions of both, maybe 5 of the PST G2, 3 SWFAs
The SWFAs track well, but the glass is terrible.
The PST G2s are not as durable, but they track decently and the glass is much easier on the eyes in terms of strain.
FYI, Optics Planet has a sale going on a number of Burris scopes, including the XTR II 4-20x50 for $620.00 with free shipping. For another $70.00 you can get it with an illuminated reticle.
I am a big Vortex fan and their warranty. Not to mention their HQ is only like 45 minutes away from me.
That will be handy when you're using the warranty. And you most likely will be using the warranty (this is why I avoid them, only optics I've broken personally so far).
Anything below the razor level isn't worth it. There's better scopes out there, with similar warranty.
I just sent in some SIG binos I bought used and the dick threw them in a huge box with nothing, so the focus knob was bent into the case from bouncing all over. Called SIG and sent them in expecting a bill, got new upgraded binos back with no bill.
Makes a lot of sense? Why would you prefer to use a scope that has the worst glass in its class? Swfa was a god choice back when the year started with a 1.
huh you're not glassing through your scope for game or targets. That's what binos and spotters are for. Swfa glass is certainly adequate. just be sure to save the box on your vortex for when you need to send it in.
OP, if you haven't already made a purchase, Natchez is now showing the Burris XTR II I mentioned above for $499.00 non-illuminated and $549.00 with the illuminated reticle. Hard to beat this deal on a new scope in your price range. The glass on these is mediocre, but the scope has a reputation for being very solid mechanically. Here's a link to the offer: Burris 4-20x50 on sale Heck, at this price I might pick up one of these just as a back-up.
Easily the best scope you could pick up for that price right now. Not a single optic I can think of for $500 thats a better optic.
He's not being snooty, typically you'll spend 3x on your glass. Definitely go Mil/Mil. I'd recommend a Tract 5x25x50 with the 47 mils of elevation. TYD for about $1600. for me at least its not the 'best' but the most 'intuitive' or easy handling scope Ive seen.
And Diggler is right on, the mistakes will sting but youll learn from them,
To the top.
I just ordered the HMR n 7 PRC, hot a 30 MOA rail ad a decent scope (Tract 5x25x50 ELR with the 56 ML's or elevation.) I ordered 3 boxes each of 175 and 18o grains, Hornady wondering what y'all gave found is better.
I was looking at the Christensen Arms but have heard from several sources about issues and poor customer service. Heard nothing but good about Bergara.
I'm seeing that mile hit.
I just ordered the HMR n 7 PRC, hot a 30 MOA rail ad a decent scope (Tract 5x25x50 ELR with the 56 ML's or elevation.) I ordered 3 boxes each of 175 and 18o grains, Hornady wondering what y'all gave found is better.
I was looking at the Christensen Arms but have heard from several sources about issues and poor customer service. Heard nothing but good about Bergara.
I'm seeing that mile hit.
Which blue loctite there’s about 6 or more blue formulations?
242 works well with scope ring screws and action screws because those screwsaren’t overly large and 242 generally is good with screws with a diameter up to .2500”. 243 is similar but doesn’t require as much degreasing prior to use. Both are a medium hold strength so not terribly difficult to take things apart should it be necessary.
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