Keeping Suppressors Cool

D

Deepwoods

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Minuteman
Mar 14, 2013
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#1
I went to the range to try do a comparison between a recently received PTR Vent 2 and DA Mojave, but instead, I got caught up figuring out which host I liked more: a DIY CMMG radial delayed upper and a MEAN Arms upper. (Turns out, at least this trip, the CMMG...)

Anyway, I'm curious if anyone else has a small fan in their range bag? Ive found this one does a great job of cooling off a hot, just-used suppressor and so I don't have to wait as long to pack up.



tempImageMrnB59.jpg
 
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#3
Deepwoods said:
I went to the range to try do a comparison between a recently received PTR Vent 2 and DA Mojave, but instead, I got caught up figuring out which host I liked more: a DIY CMMG radial delayed upper and a MEAN Arms upper. (Turns out, at least this trip, the CMMG...)

Anyway, I'm curious if anyone else has a small fan in their range bag? Ive found this one does a great job of cooling off a hot, just-used suppressor and so I don't have to wait as long to pack up.



View attachment 8486325
Click to expand...
A proper suppressor cover works wonders as well
 
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#8
Yeah a cover is a nice insulating blanket for your can. It traps the heat.

For range trips, I find that the walk down to retrieve my targets is sufficient that afterwards I can pack up my rifle without melting my range bag. I pack the rifle last.
 
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#12
Moving air through the suppressor should help a lot too, esp on a flow through like that Hux

Magnetospeed etc have weak low-volume fans, not worth the time IMO. I attached some 1/2” vinyl tubing to One of these. Works great to cool barrels, but I haven’t tried it with a suppressor mounted

Pretty simple setup, but I’ll have mine out today if you want a pic
 
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#13
See if your dealer has any of the Silencer Shop mitts, they usually send them out to them. They work great for removal and to wrap around for transport, fit into the pockets intended for your hand.
 
#14
Bugholes, an RO at an indoor range "lent" me their fan, which was very effective, but too large and is what got the wondering about a pocket fan.

I have a few different heat resistant wraps, mitts, cover, etc, and do use them. But seem to end a range session shooting suppressed and then having to wait for it to cool down enough. This isn't bad per se, but... I prefer to put away cool, or be able to remove and store separately.

R.A.W, I did have one of those little fan/ inflators, but couldn't find it when this idea hit. And then got sidetracked as I Amazon-ed... The one I got pushes a good amount of air on the higher settings, and when placed close, is quite effective.
 
#15
Unfortunately that's the deal with suppressors. They heat up quickly, and take a while to cool.

There's no real way around it. You can try to move cool air over it with a fan, and removing suppressor wraps after strings of fire always helps. But it's still a matter of time to let it cool down.

I use a silencershop mitt thing to remove a suppressor when it's hot and transport it either in the mitt or in a TacOps dragbag suppressor pouch and it's been fine. Rifles Only makes suppressor pouches as well that will handle some heat too. Use a mitt to remove from rifle and place in pouch, just don't get too stupid with the heat and you should be fine.
 
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#16
R_A_W said:
Moving air through the suppressor should help a lot too, esp on a flow through like that Hux

Magnetospeed etc have weak low-volume fans, not worth the time IMO. I attached some 1/2” vinyl tubing to One of these. Works great to cool barrels, but I haven’t tried it with a suppressor mounted

Pretty simple setup, but I’ll have mine out today if you want a pic
Click to expand...
I use a similar little pump, but I'd definitely recommend using silicone tubing. Much higher temp resistance (~200 vs 450+ F). Melted plastic in the chamber is a bad day.

Bonus is that the pump can act as a battery pack for the LabRadar.
 

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#18
I shoot suppressors a lot.
The best way I have found to cool off hot suppressors is to spray them with water.
I just grab a bottle of water, drill a small hole in the top with the tip of my pocket knife, and spray a thin stream onto the outside of the suppressor. Evenly apply over the entire external surface.
The energy lost to steam conversion is orders of magnitude above moving air over the surface.
A thin stream from about 6-12" in a waving motion is better than a thick stream or just pouring the water on.

I have used high-power fans, and they're ok, but removal from the rifle so air flow can go through the core is needed if you want to drop temperature quickly. Laying them on a metal plate helps a little as well, but not something I usually have on a "non-work" range trip.
Do not shove them into standing cold water, you can risk structural integrity of the suppressor if the cooling rate is too fast, and you will likely wind up with boiling water and steam coming back up through the bore if attached to a firearm.
 
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#20
As far as having to wait for it to cool down prior to packing it up, I just pop them into this heat proof pouch from Rifle Only, chuck it into my range bag, and don't give it a second thought.

riflesonly.com

The Fatty Suppressor Pouch

riflesonly.com riflesonly.com

1724684412343.png


As far as just keeping stuff cool...I do use a chamber fan and I use this one because its quiet and doesn't "eeeeeee" in your ear the whole time. I hook it up to a small USB power bank and it works quite well to cool barrel and suppressor.

Chamber Chiller - Bolt Action .308-.338 SA/LA/MA

www.chamberchiller.com www.chamberchiller.com
 
#21
Eric_F said:
Much higher temp resistance (~200 vs 450+ F)
Click to expand...
That's a good point if you're cooling suppressors directly, but heating the rear of the chamber on a bolt gun so it's still 200F by the time you can get the tube inserted takes enough firing that you're probably already causing damage your barrel. Might as well go w/ the silicon though, it's more flexible & probably fits into chamber more easily

My set up is about the same
 

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#22
Good thoughts. The heat mirage from a hot can is annoying. I simply have two water bottles at the range--one for me, one for the suppressor. Take an old hand towel, fold it in quarters, and soak it with water. Slip your Nomex suppressor cover back and wrap the can with the wet towel. It will sizzle at first. Leave this on while you police brass, reset your chrono string, and the like. Remove the towel and slip the cover back over the can. Repeat as needed. The wet towel wrapped on the can will cool things down MUCH quicker than a fan or just spraying the suppressor with water. I sometimes do use a fan to help the barrel, although wiping the barrel down with the wet towel will also speed cooling.
 
#24
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#25
RTH1800 said:
I use a can of cool water in hot weather.
Click to expand...

Jack_L said:
I shoot suppressors a lot.
The best way I have found to cool off hot suppressors is to spray them with water.
I just grab a bottle of water, drill a small hole in the top with the tip of my pocket knife, and spray a thin stream onto the outside of the suppressor. Evenly apply over the entire external surface.
The energy lost to steam conversion is orders of magnitude above moving air over the surface.
A thin stream from about 6-12" in a waving motion is better than a thick stream or just pouring the water on.

I have used high-power fans, and they're ok, but removal from the rifle so air flow can go through the core is needed if you want to drop temperature quickly. Laying them on a metal plate helps a little as well, but not something I usually have on a "non-work" range trip.
Do not shove them into standing cold water, you can risk structural integrity of the suppressor if the cooling rate is too fast, and you will likely wind up with boiling water and steam coming back up through the bore if attached to a firearm.
Click to expand...

England said:
Good thoughts. The heat mirage from a hot can is annoying. I simply have two water bottles at the range--one for me, one for the suppressor. Take an old hand towel, fold it in quarters, and soak it with water. Slip your Nomex suppressor cover back and wrap the can with the wet towel. It will sizzle at first. Leave this on while you police brass, reset your chrono string, and the like. Remove the towel and slip the cover back over the can. Repeat as needed. The wet towel wrapped on the can will cool things down MUCH quicker than a fan or just spraying the suppressor with water. I sometimes do use a fan to help the barrel, although wiping the barrel down with the wet towel will also speed cooling.
Click to expand...

That works, but just realize you’re quenching the metal every time you do that; if it was hot enough, and you cool it fast enough (i.e. dipping it in a bucket of water) you’ll change the metallurgical composition of the can and almost certainly make it more brittle.

Probably not too big of a deal on bolt guns, but could be catastrophic for sustained courses of fire with ARs, etc. This is also why titanium cans are better for use on platforms with slower rates of fire, like bolt guns or when hunting. They’re very strong, but get brittle very easily.

Do whatever works best for you, but please…please be careful.
 
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#31
I use a “cover” from Modtac. Not really a traditional can cover, but is a carbon fiber cylinder that uses metal standoffs to allow space between the can and the cover.

My version has been discontinued. It wasn’t attached to the barrel, just clamped to the can. A bit of a pain as I need a small allen key to install/remove. Was ~$210 for the high-temp version. Seemed to limit mirage longer than the can covers I had.

The new version clamps to the barrel (no standoffs) and you twist it to install/remove. Like a camera lens. Not sure what I think about clamping…I know even screwing on muzzle attachments too tight with a wrench can slightly change the bore size, especially if there isn’t much meat (bore size vs threaded portion).

I guess it’s about how tight does this cover attachment thing need to clamp? It’s probably ok as it clamps to the full diameter of the barrel. Pencil barrels…well…

They come in two diameters. Here is the fat version:

1724701073139.jpeg

1724701121323.jpeg

Fat version is $500!
Reg version is $410-420
https://modtac.us/product/prss-xl/
https://modtac.us/product/prss/
 
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#34
carbonbased said:
I use a “cover” from Modtac. Not really a traditional can cover, but is a carbon fiber cylinder that uses metal standoffs to allow space between the can and the cover.

My version has been discontinued. It wasn’t attached to the barrel, just clamped to the can. A bit of a pain as I need a small allen key to install/remove. Was ~$300-350. Seemed to limit mirage longer than the can covers I had.

The new version clamps to the barrel (no standoffs) and you twist it to install/remove. Like a camera lens. Not sure what I think about clamping…I know even screwing on muzzle attachments too tight with a wrench can slightly change the bore size, especially if there isn’t much meat (bore size vs threaded portion).

I guess it’s about how tight does this cover attachment thing need to clamp? It’s probably ok as it clamps to the full diameter of the barrel. Pencil barrels…well…

They come in two diameters. Here is the fat version:

View attachment 8488249
View attachment 8488250
Fat version is $500!
Reg version is $410-420
https://modtac.us/product/prss-xl/
https://modtac.us/product/prss/
Click to expand...
Interesting. That's pretty slick!
 
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#37
91Eunozs said:
That works, but just realize you’re quenching the metal every time you do that; if it was hot enough, and you cool it fast enough (i.e. dipping it in a bucket of water) you’ll change the metallurgical composition of the can and almost certainly make it more brittle.

Probably not too big of a deal on bolt guns, but could be catastrophic for sustained courses of fire with ARs, etc. This is also why titanium cans are better for use on platforms with slower rates of fire, like bolt guns or when hunting. They’re very strong, but get brittle very easily.

Do whatever works best for you, but please…please be careful.
Click to expand...
I specifically said a "thin stream" evenly applied to external surfaces, and not to submerge a hot suppressor.
 
#41
91Eunozs said:
That works, but just realize you’re quenching the metal every time you do that; if it was hot enough, and you cool it fast enough (i.e. dipping it in a bucket of water) you’ll change the metallurgical composition of the can and almost certainly make it more brittle.

Probably not too big of a deal on bolt guns, but could be catastrophic for sustained courses of fire with ARs, etc. This is also why titanium cans are better for use on platforms with slower rates of fire, like bolt guns or when hunting. They’re very strong, but get brittle very easily.

Do whatever works best for you, but please…please be careful.
Click to expand...
I'm skeptical of this, but would appreciate a solid reference that supports this contention. I use titanium suppressors for several reason. Titanium will readily handle temperatures of 800-900 F, and the quenching process typically involve temps of 1200-1500 F.

Are you really suggesting that someone is going to run a titanium suppressor on a belt fed weapon, get the suppressor up to 1200 F, then pull it with steel tongs and drop it in a barrel of water? I'll continue to use my cans on my rifles and wrap a wet towel on them in between strings of fire with no fear of altering its metallurgical composition (or other properties!). By the time one has a titanium suppressor up to a temperature where quenching would be possible, the barrel and rifling would be toast and I doubt that removing the can would be high on your list of priorities!
 
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#42
Strength and brittleness aren’t the same thing. No one suggested dropping anything into a barrel of water…well, one poster did above (mentioned a bucket, but think it was a tongue-in-cheek reference), but no, not suggesting that at all.

I have three titanium suppressors myself and love them, but only use them for my bolt guns and/or when hunting, where I’m not shooting long strings of fire. I use my steel/inconel cans for training with my semi auto rifles (primarily ARs)

Regardless, I’m tapping out of this one. Y’all do whatever you’re comfortable doing, and I truly wish you the best of luck.
 
#43
If you are getting a can hot enough to quench harden it, you are also getting it hot enough to anneal it as well . So, the metallurgy is already f’d.
 
#44
I wrap a cotton mechanics towel or other small towel around them and just douse it with water. You can even shoot with it on if you strap it on. There is a reason Belt machine guns used to be water cooled.

In fact, I think there might be a market for a wettable suppressor cover
 
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#45
www.snipershide.com

Badass DIY barrel cooler(s)

If you’ve tried one of the commercial offerings, you were probably disappointed with airflow, battery life, or the whole shebang. That inspired me first to buy a rechargeable mattress inflator on Amazon for about $25 and rig a plastic pipe elbow so that it will generally fit in the bolt raceway...
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com

I use the Ryobi blower with a piece of tubing. It can be placed in the action of the rifle and cool both the barrel and suppressor or just place it in the suppressor once removed the new whisper series blower is much quite than my older version. I will probably upgrade it later this year.
 
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#46
secondofangle2 said:
I wrap a cotton mechanics towel or other small towel around them and just douse it with water. You can even shoot with it on if you strap it on. There is a reason Belt machine guns used to be water cooled.

In fact, I think there might be a market for a wettable suppressor cover
Click to expand...
Now....just combine the 2 major thoughts. A Suppressor Swamp Cooler. ASSC. An improved version could be the ASSCi.

If you made it adjustable length...tuner.

I think TBAC is missing out here. They could just thread the exterior of the can so this ASSC could thread on over the can, adjust up and down for tuning, adjust how much water (8.33 lb/gal) or oil (7.5 lb/gal) and make the fan variable speed. I mean, you could really get that sucker tuned in. Just imagine that time suck...

And have something else to blame the misses on.
 
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