Keymod compatible pic rail recs for Atlas

atepointer

Old Salt
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Minuteman
  • Nov 20, 2018
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    I've been using keymod for years and while I don't hang a lot of stuff off rails I'm about to mount up an Atlas....this will be the first time I've used a rail section for something that will take some pressure on it. Is there a big dif in the keymod nuts b/t manufacturers? Spacing of nut and round raised section? Thanks for any insight
     
    I've been using keymod for years and while I don't hang a lot of stuff off rails I'm about to mount up an Atlas....this will be the first time I've used a rail section for something that will take some pressure on it. Is there a big dif in the keymod nuts b/t manufacturers? Spacing of nut and round raised section? Thanks for any insight
    This is a great question; hopefully someone will chime in with the answer/recommendation.
     
    So I ran headlong into an issue related to the above question a couple of years ago with an original KMR rail and a polymer rail section to attach a bipod. For awhile I thought I was good but it turns out that wasn't the case, eventually the keymod foot was able to rotate as I was tightening it onto the rail and was facing backwards. When I went to torque the screw, this caused the foot to pull through and completely fail. Turns out BCM warns against using a polymer rail for any sort of load bearing application but they did me a solid and replaced my KMR's with KMR-A's and I picked up some aluminum keymod rail sections. Since using aluminum rail sections I've had no issues with damage or failure when using it with a bipod. I did file down one of the screws so that it provided additional clearance at the gas block but that more or less because of a confluence of a 5 slot rail, 13" KMR-A, and rifle length gas system.

    The long and short of it is if you're going to use a rail section for mounting a bipod, make sure it's aluminum. BCM is good but there are plenty of other reputable companies out there too. I hope this helps.
     
    That's fantastic info exactly what I was hoping to learn. I *think* mine is alum.....never had a polymer part that I know of....the pic rail definitely sounds metallic when I tap it. Would a polymer sound softer or different? Thank
     
    So after letting the LocTite cure for 24 hours this time same problem. Bipod pressure loosens it up. The nuts are totally locked down, but the rail section begins to separate from the bottom of the handguard. When I just took it off the nuts were not budging so that's not what appears to be coming loose. Cornfusing. Not sure of the brand here. Maybe try a BCM? Have read a few googles showing people who were having loosening issues finding success with them. Thanks for your thoughts.

    I'm thinking I will try the best consensus keymod/pic rail suggestion and if that's no bueno go to a hand guard that is pic rail on the bottom for a direct fit. Open to suggestions thanks all....hoping it's operator error or keymod/rail equipment related so it can be resolved w/o a new hand guard

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    I use a BCM aluminum 5-slot section under the KM forend on my Mega Maten MKM uppers and had the same KMR under my now-sold GAP10 G2, Armalite AR10 and my RPR with Seekins handguard. I even tried it on my AI AXSA, but their Keyslots are just a little different on slot width and how they lock up, even if the holes are the same spacing.
    On every rifle they function great and haven't come loose at all. I don't use Loctite on them. I use the BCM because of the sloped front & back, but have a Seekins rail under the T4A on my 300wm and a BT AFAR in the rail under my R700. Use a quality, good-reputation brand aluminum rail and you will do fine.
     
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    Ruger makes a great rifle and I love my 1st Gen Ruger Precision, but the hand gaurd is weak, mine failed when using the supplied rail to attach an Atlas. Again, it is a first gen so maybe they changed the hand gaurd.

    My solution, A bit ghetto but took a 3" piece of steel 3/16 x 1/2 flat strap, drilled and tapped two holes, using the rail as a hole guide. Then slipped strap between barrel and hand gaurd and lined up the rail, then screwed the two together using red loktite. Been like that since then with zero issues.
     
    You are making sure the recoil lugs on the pic rail are seated in the big end of the keymod slot? I've never had a short Noveske aluminum keymod pic rail come out of the original magnesium alloy KMR, even when used for an Atlas.

    Can you show a picture of your rail and the pic rail installed?
     
    I use a BCM aluminum 5-slot section under the KM forend on my Mega Maten MKM uppers and had the same KMR under my now-sold GAP10 G2, Armalite AR10 and my RPR with Seekins handguard. I even tried it on my AI AXSA, but their Keyslots are just a little different on slot width and how they lock up, even if the holes are the same spacing.
    On every rifle they function great and haven't come loose at all. I don't use Loctite on them. I use the BCM because of the sloped front & back, but have a Seekins rail under the T4A on my 300wm and a BT AFAR in the rail under my R700. Use a quality, good-reputation brand aluminum rail and you will do fine.
    Thanks man the BCM 5 slot locked up on the hand guard like a drum....the Atlas is snugged in like a champ!
     
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