Just wondering if anyone has experimented with both and which one worked better.
Thanks for any info!
Thanks for any info!
Krylon or Rustoleum for gun paint job?
- Thread starter BeEzLeBoSs
- Start date
Re: Krylon or Rustoleum for gun paint job?
I don't paint rifles anymore. When I did, I tried both.
I preferred the Krylon by a big margin, mostly because of drying issues with the Rustoleum. You need to use lighter coats and leave more time for drying between coats when using the Rustoleum. Otherwise it takes too long to truly harden up, (sometimes fordangedever).
For removal of either; overnight soak in 'Super Dlean' Degreaser (purple gallon jug, Wal-Mart automotive dept., about $8/gal, use a longer plastic window planter box for a soaking trough.). This stuff can etch bare aluminum, leaving it looking 'fuzzy
Greg'.
I don't paint rifles anymore. When I did, I tried both.
I preferred the Krylon by a big margin, mostly because of drying issues with the Rustoleum. You need to use lighter coats and leave more time for drying between coats when using the Rustoleum. Otherwise it takes too long to truly harden up, (sometimes fordangedever).
For removal of either; overnight soak in 'Super Dlean' Degreaser (purple gallon jug, Wal-Mart automotive dept., about $8/gal, use a longer plastic window planter box for a soaking trough.). This stuff can etch bare aluminum, leaving it looking 'fuzzy
Greg'.
Re: Krylon or Rustoleum for gun paint job?
I agree, with the rustoleum part of it... I painted 2 things one with each... Rustoleum took longer to cure especially this time of year...
I agree, with the rustoleum part of it... I painted 2 things one with each... Rustoleum took longer to cure especially this time of year...
Re: Krylon or Rustoleum for gun paint job?
I use Krylon Camo paint. Use a non reflective flat paint - avoid shine
I use Krylon Camo paint. Use a non reflective flat paint - avoid shine
Re: Krylon or Rustoleum for gun paint job?
Do I need to plug the barrel or anything on it, it's a chrome lined bore and chamber And just soak the entire gun? I've got my eotech and flash light on there too. I just don't wanna damage anything and still want the original black finish to stay on the gun.
Do I need to plug the barrel or anything on it, it's a chrome lined bore and chamber And just soak the entire gun? I've got my eotech and flash light on there too. I just don't wanna damage anything and still want the original black finish to stay on the gun.
Re: Krylon or Rustoleum for gun paint job?
I can't speak for Krylon, but the Matte/Flat Rustoleum has been great on my gun. I used the khaki, od green, and black flat colors and it's held up well. I know I cant expect it to stand like a Cerakote/Duracote finish, but for $6/can, I'm all for DIY rattle-can jobs.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3381325#Post3381325
I can't speak for Krylon, but the Matte/Flat Rustoleum has been great on my gun. I used the khaki, od green, and black flat colors and it's held up well. I know I cant expect it to stand like a Cerakote/Duracote finish, but for $6/can, I'm all for DIY rattle-can jobs.
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3381325#Post3381325
Re: Krylon or Rustoleum for gun paint job?
Soak the entire gun? Of course not. But trying to decide what you'll be comfortable painting in advance, in csse you may want to soak it later, is why I no longer paint guns.
However, I did soak the entire barreled action on my Mosin-Nagant 91/30 to get rid of the cosmolene. Worked really well.
Greg
Soak the entire gun? Of course not. But trying to decide what you'll be comfortable painting in advance, in csse you may want to soak it later, is why I no longer paint guns.
However, I did soak the entire barreled action on my Mosin-Nagant 91/30 to get rid of the cosmolene. Worked really well.
Greg
Re: Krylon or Rustoleum for gun paint job?
I've done numerous rifles in Krylon and just did my first two in Rustoleum. I'm a huge fan of the Rust's Sand color, it's darker then the Krylon counterpart. Both stand up about the same, but for $4.50 you can easily afford touch up cans for a few colors. Both were equally flat, about as reflective as dirt!
I've done numerous rifles in Krylon and just did my first two in Rustoleum. I'm a huge fan of the Rust's Sand color, it's darker then the Krylon counterpart. Both stand up about the same, but for $4.50 you can easily afford touch up cans for a few colors. Both were equally flat, about as reflective as dirt!
Re: Krylon or Rustoleum for gun paint job?
what about these? http://dsgarms.com/Category/44_1/Spray_Paint.aspx
what about these? http://dsgarms.com/Category/44_1/Spray_Paint.aspx
Re: Krylon or Rustoleum for gun paint job?
I've never used Rustoleum, but have used Krylon. The flat camo paints work great, dry fast, and are very flat. The only downside is that just about any gun cleaner, solvent, ect will take it off pretty easily, plus the tan colors show finger prints and smudges pretty bad.
I use Brownell's Alumahyde alot now as it does really well and holds up great. It takes a good soaking of Acetone before it will come off. The best bet with the Alumahyde is to pre-heat the parts in the oven at 250 degrees or so for 10-15 minutes and spray one complete coat immediately, then put back in the oven for an hour or two at 200 degrees or so. Let it cool and you're pretty much good to go. If you don't pre-heat the parts the alumahyde will take forever to cure and never turn out right.
As far as any general prep no matter what paint you use is to spray the parts down with brake parts cleaner, tape off whatever you need to, then lightly wipe down with solvent or more brake parts and a microfiber cloth to remove any lint or additional debris. Heat, paint, cure, back in action.
I've never used Rustoleum, but have used Krylon. The flat camo paints work great, dry fast, and are very flat. The only downside is that just about any gun cleaner, solvent, ect will take it off pretty easily, plus the tan colors show finger prints and smudges pretty bad.
I use Brownell's Alumahyde alot now as it does really well and holds up great. It takes a good soaking of Acetone before it will come off. The best bet with the Alumahyde is to pre-heat the parts in the oven at 250 degrees or so for 10-15 minutes and spray one complete coat immediately, then put back in the oven for an hour or two at 200 degrees or so. Let it cool and you're pretty much good to go. If you don't pre-heat the parts the alumahyde will take forever to cure and never turn out right.
As far as any general prep no matter what paint you use is to spray the parts down with brake parts cleaner, tape off whatever you need to, then lightly wipe down with solvent or more brake parts and a microfiber cloth to remove any lint or additional debris. Heat, paint, cure, back in action.
