Can you do it? Will the spray paint adhere to the cerakote? Also can you remove the krylon without damaging the cerakote? Thanks!
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Krylon over Cerakote?
- Thread starter Terryw123
- Start date
Krylon over Cerakote?
Acetone is pretty hardcore isn't it? Will it harm a Mcmillan stock or bedding job?
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Acetone is pretty hardcore isn't it? Will it harm a Mcmillan stock or bedding job?
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Some years back, perhaps before KG and Cerakote become popular here, I suggested a two stage camo method, where an overall contrast pattern (white/grey/black) could be used as a basecoat, and transparent tints would be used as a cover coat to allow dominant environmental colors to be matched and rematched after removing the former top coat. Over time, I've added some thoughts, like keeping the overall basecoat contrast colors on the lighter side (shadows darken the appearance of any camo pattern).
This kind of thinking may have some relevance to this topic.
Greg
This kind of thinking may have some relevance to this topic.
Greg
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That's actually not a bad idea, and yeah, you wanna keep the base grays lighter than you want them to be when finished (I use this undercoat method when oil painting and I generally go 2-3 shades lighter on the Munsell scale). I suggest taking pictures of different grays on the Munsell scale after being tinted and work it out that way. The transparent tints will darken grays, but where to get the transparent paints besides art stores, which generally aren't the type of paints you want to use on a rifle? Oils, acrylics and such? Oils could make an awesome camo job, but would take forever to dry and would would smell to high heaven for decades. Acrylics could/would peel off if they adhere at all.
I know you can get the pigments raw, it's modern ones you want, along with a knowledge of how much tinting strength and toning value it has, and mix 'em yourself with whatever binder you want to use and I guess airbrush that on...
Or do you know of some place that sells transparent camo colors? In a spray can? I knew I shouldn't have sold my airbrush! Short of this or a similar tool and a working knowledge of color and paint, it's kinda out of reach for most folks. But I like the idea, I do. You could get all color digital patterns from one master gray pattern, for instance.
Can someone give me some tips on the removal of the paint? Is there anything I have to worry about?
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The last time that I had to remove Krylon, I used some 3M "environmentally safe" paint stripper from the local hardware store. It quickly dissolved the paint without touching the OEM Manners finish (which I believe is Polane).
I've also used Castrol GTX degreaser to remove paint from delicate surfaces. It does a good job without affecting materials such as plastic.
I've also used Castrol GTX degreaser to remove paint from delicate surfaces. It does a good job without affecting materials such as plastic.
I have tried using fabric dyes dissolved in odorless paint thinner, mixed with a clear polyurethane varnish, sprayed on with an airbrush. Some initial testing would be in order, as I did have a strange chemical reaction where the dye caused the thinner/polyurethane mixture to congeal and harden quickly. I was doing a permanent application over unprimed wood and have never attempted to remove it.
Another version might be to mix the dye with acetone, and add it to Minwax Clear Brushing Lacquer for airbrushing. The Minwax comes in Satin and Gloss finishes, and also comes in rattle cans (for a clear topcoat). For brushing, use the minimum acetone needed to liquefy the dye granules.
I do a lot of this as a means of staining balsa, pine, and basswood for scale boat and aircraft models. Might also work for coloring wood stocks, etc. I no longer use model airplane dope for models, the Minwax Lacquer does just as good.
Acrylics also work, I would suggest alcohol for thinner, and floor stripper for removal.
This is what I use for stripping Krylon.
Greg
Another version might be to mix the dye with acetone, and add it to Minwax Clear Brushing Lacquer for airbrushing. The Minwax comes in Satin and Gloss finishes, and also comes in rattle cans (for a clear topcoat). For brushing, use the minimum acetone needed to liquefy the dye granules.
I do a lot of this as a means of staining balsa, pine, and basswood for scale boat and aircraft models. Might also work for coloring wood stocks, etc. I no longer use model airplane dope for models, the Minwax Lacquer does just as good.
Acrylics also work, I would suggest alcohol for thinner, and floor stripper for removal.
This is what I use for stripping Krylon.
Greg
Last edited:
Yep I just refinished a fully rattle canned .308 savage last weekend. Everything was painted...scope, caps and even harris bipod. Put all the parts in a tupperware bowl and coated with stripease. Keep recoating as it dries as it works. Keep it wet until it starts to slough off then hit it with a tooth brush and some scotchbright pad. Definatley use nitrile gloves as the stuff is caustic to skin. Doest not bother the parts though at all and it's not a thin liquid like acetone so it's harmless to scopes. Rinse off with water when done.
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