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Labradar and suppressor
- Thread starter Rangemaster
- Start date
Positioning is the key. Several times someone has told me their unit doesn't work with their suppressor. I position it for them and it works just fine.
The muzzle of the can should be 4 - 6 inches behind the labradar and 2-3 inches off to the side. Muzzle Height should be at the middle of the Labradar. Never had a labradar not trigger with it in that position with a can.
Will also say that Greg Piet's trigger works great.
The muzzle of the can should be 4 - 6 inches behind the labradar and 2-3 inches off to the side. Muzzle Height should be at the middle of the Labradar. Never had a labradar not trigger with it in that position with a can.
Will also say that Greg Piet's trigger works great.
I figured sooner or later someone would come up with the same design... good on them and I wish them well. Hopefully they didn't just buy one of mine and reverse engineer it... karma is a bitch.
Isn't it funny how it never existed until your design came out and a bunch of people bought one? Yeah I hope they did their own R&D and started from scratch.
Yeah guess I know how B+T, Switchview, and Short Action Precision feels about the "extremely similar products". Oh well. I did it to help the community and getting a few bucks was an added benefit. Free market is a wonderful thing regardless.
Thanks @wildmanpiet, I just purchased one of your devices.
I have struggled trying to get my rifle to trigger with my Thunder beast Ultra 7. I appreciate you bringing a fix to this product.
Scott
Looks like I sold a unit to someone in the same town that company posts from on Jan 2 and they were working on their new project late January. Curious timing for sure. Bless their hearts.
Looks like the same thing happened with a couple items from Blamm Enterprises as well.
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So I feel compelled to jump in here. I live local to Greg (wildmanpiet) and have never met him outside of electronic conversation.
He has broke thru the barrier associated with the labradar and its not registering shots, suppressed or otherwise. I am well over 300 shots “since” his device is in use without one missed shot, correctly written, without one missed shot.
Last weekend we set it up using a 204 ruger, suppressed, with an SiCo Omega and a flat cap, again no problem grabbing every single shot out of the 204.
Due to being local to me, he took upon himself to not charge me shipping, not a big deal, except when its speaks to ones character. It is everything he makes it out to be, plus some!
Imitation is biggest form of flattery, except when it costs you business.
Spreading the word I’m sure will help keep things in “perspective”
He has broke thru the barrier associated with the labradar and its not registering shots, suppressed or otherwise. I am well over 300 shots “since” his device is in use without one missed shot, correctly written, without one missed shot.
Last weekend we set it up using a 204 ruger, suppressed, with an SiCo Omega and a flat cap, again no problem grabbing every single shot out of the 204.
Due to being local to me, he took upon himself to not charge me shipping, not a big deal, except when its speaks to ones character. It is everything he makes it out to be, plus some!
Imitation is biggest form of flattery, except when it costs you business.
Spreading the word I’m sure will help keep things in “perspective”
Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad the community is finding benefit in the concept and execution.
You can find me over at Desert Sportsmans quite often and if you have any issues please don't be afraid to reach out...
I have finally made a page to allow online ordering:
Just went live
pietrecoiltrigger.com
Just went live
THE ORIGINAL Piet Recoil Trigger for LabRadar
Labradar triggers now come in Orange or Black unless a special order Is made. Connect with me at [email protected]
pietrecoiltrigger.com
Curious, how does the Labradar determine velocity at the muzzle if you have to use different muzzle placements and offsets for shooting suppressed and non-suppressed?
Or is the difference in velocity so minor it doesn’t matter?
Or is the difference in velocity so minor it doesn’t matter?
It’s so minor but it tracks it out at a little distance and then does a calculation to back into what it started as at the muzzle based on the offset you told it you were at.
So it sounds like the best policy is to keep the muzzle even with the unit and adjust the offset based on what you’re shooting(if it allows a trigger). I know my big bore rifle will need a decent offset or the Labradar is going to do a few cartwheels lol.
Depends, with a can I have to be a few inches back, there is so much less blast I need the radar in front to catch what little blast there is. Still have the offset at 0-6” and it matches up about 4fps off from the magneatospeed before I sold it.
With the bare muzzle deer rifles I can put the muzzle 4” in front of the radar because they have so much more blast. I don’t shoot brakes so I can’t really speak to that but I imagine it would be much the same as a bare muzzle.
With the bare muzzle deer rifles I can put the muzzle 4” in front of the radar because they have so much more blast. I don’t shoot brakes so I can’t really speak to that but I imagine it would be much the same as a bare muzzle.
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Beware of the sideways blast from a muzzle break and a Labradar. They advise in the instructions (and instructional videos) to keep the blast from directly impacting the radar unit.
I keep the rifles I shoot with muzzle breaks out in front of the unit, same with rifles with no muzzle device....rifles with a suppressor makes the poition setup different. Pistols have always been "no sweat" FWIW.
I'll be adding one of the recoil triggers soon, should take much of the "fiddling-ness" out of positioning different rifles (specifically suppressed) to trigger on each and every shot.
I keep the rifles I shoot with muzzle breaks out in front of the unit, same with rifles with no muzzle device....rifles with a suppressor makes the poition setup different. Pistols have always been "no sweat" FWIW.
I'll be adding one of the recoil triggers soon, should take much of the "fiddling-ness" out of positioning different rifles (specifically suppressed) to trigger on each and every shot.
I use the mic now and it works no matter where I position the unit. Wish I would have ordered it sooner. Downside is when other people are shooting, it picks up their shots and you have to delete them. Still well worth it.
What are everyone's thoughts now a couple years down the road. I want to get a one and done chrony. I really want one of these but how much money am I going to invest to hit the range? $560 for the unit......how much for an external battery pack.....and what mics or triggers are needed? I see wildmanpiet triggers are $50. So ball park guesstimate $700-800 all set up to catch all the shots? I do not like the magneto at all. I shoot suppressed now for the most part and am constantly moving and switching guns. Also, don't like the thought of something hanging off my barrel. Yes, I know they are accurate, work, and are cheaper.
are you shooting by yourself or on a line with a bunch of folks. i have both. ive found when i am shooting suppressed in places with others i know with the magneto i wont miss stuff or have others get picked up versus mine. i'm not tech inclined to begin with though. if i have the time and its me and just a friend or two out in a field the i prefer the labradar as i dont have 'stuff' on my gun.
ranges with any sort of baffling give my magneto troubles.
when i moved out of light cronos i got a labradar first. got the peit trigger after a while to help with the suppressor issue. but with the baffles on the range where i tend to zero and do load development in town always giving me fits, i picked up a magneto.
Thanks for the necro post! LOL (I am kidding!!!)
I just got a labradar for Christmas and with the unit, carrying case, tripod, battery pack, and trigger it wasn't cheap. That said it is the best thing I have ever used but my experience is limited to a 1980s Caldwell optical unit.
Someone here told me about the inertia triggers and it's by far the best add on I could get. I can chrono subsonic 22LR with that trigger. It works with everything I am using it for and more. Lately it's even given me the capabilities to do stuff far beyond what I could have done before in the way of testing and so on and so forth.
yes. ive tried just about wverything. they have tin and beams creating baffles above line of flight, below line of flight, and tin on exterior walls if you are close to the edge of the range. if your in the middle of the lanes there are railroad tie supports. ive also had troubles indoors at a range i tried. so i relented and bought the magneto. yes its a little more trouble to mount up, but once it is its a breeze to use on ranges that give the labradar trouble. if i'm shooting out on open land then i go to the labradar.
I think I will roll with the labradar once I save up and after I donate a kidney lol jk. I dont ever shoot at a range much any more because the desert is so close. And the only range I do go to is usually dead early as long as it is not super sunny and warm. I usually just shoot out of the bed of the truck on a front and rear rest. Hopefully build a bench here soon so I can get out of the bed
All the research I have done seems to be promising. But until then i will have to go swoop my dads old school CED millennium chrono hahaa. Id like to also gather data out past 100 and it seems the labradar can help there as well. Id really like to see how much my loads drop further out. Might just have to bite the bullet and not tell the wife...Thank you everyone for responding and sorry for bringing up the old thread.Not sure if he is a member here, but just made a video about an unusual aiming technique for a heavily baffled range such as yours.
Get this https://pietrecoiltrigger.com/shop/ols/products/black-recoil-trigger-2021 I use one even when I am not shooting suppressed. Never miss a shot.
This is, IMHO ... the "only" and "best" way to trigger your Labradar.
Labradar Trigger Gen 2
This is the gen two trigger for the LabRadar chronograph. It will work on anything from a 22LR to a big bore rifles. The trigger works great with suppressors and crowded ranges. The new, removable …
jklprecision.com
I haven't had a missed shot yet with mine. The only difficult part is deleting the "false shots" where it triggered when I closed or opened the bolt.This is, IMHO ... the "only" and "best" way to trigger your Labradar.
Labradar Trigger Gen 2
This is the gen two trigger for the LabRadar chronograph. It will work on anything from a 22LR to a big bore rifles. The trigger works great with suppressors and crowded ranges. The new, removable …jklprecision.com
Try using a less sensitive trigger level setting on the LabRadar. An alternative to test is position the trigger further away from the action.
FWIW I use shock cord to attach it to the scope bell, a double sided velcro strap works as well.
You can make your own recoil trigger for about $5. Works every time.
You need four parts;
Socket is the same size as a AA battery so it stows in the battery compartment..
Solder the two switch leads to the socket terminals but leave the ground alone. Use the cable clamp on the ground to hold the switch. Screw it together and you're good-to-go.
On sensing a shot the radar has a built-in 2 second delay before it will permit the next trigger. You can see this when the orange light goes off and comes back on again. This means you don't have to worry about aftershocks triggering the radar as the gun and switch settles.
Note. There's another DIY design floating around on the web which includes a resistor and capacitor. It works, but you don't need these parts and complexity because of the inbuilt 2-second delay. Just use the switch by itself.
Give it a go, it'll save you $45 and it fits in the radar.
You need four parts;
- A short male-to-male 3.5mm stereo cable.
- A DIY female 3.5mm stereo socket.
- A vibration switch, SW-18010P (in packs of 20 for $1 on Fleabay).
- An elastic band.
Socket is the same size as a AA battery so it stows in the battery compartment..
Solder the two switch leads to the socket terminals but leave the ground alone. Use the cable clamp on the ground to hold the switch. Screw it together and you're good-to-go.
On sensing a shot the radar has a built-in 2 second delay before it will permit the next trigger. You can see this when the orange light goes off and comes back on again. This means you don't have to worry about aftershocks triggering the radar as the gun and switch settles.
Note. There's another DIY design floating around on the web which includes a resistor and capacitor. It works, but you don't need these parts and complexity because of the inbuilt 2-second delay. Just use the switch by itself.
Give it a go, it'll save you $45 and it fits in the radar.
Just get the recoil trigger. Literally no issues since I started using that. I don't use it any other way. It's super simple and makes the labradar really really great
