Funny you mention that, I have noticed the same thing in some of the logs. I'll need to pull the memory card and look through it properly, but I have been thinking I may even calculate SD and ES based off a downrange velocity measurement rather than V0 if I start to see the occasional erroneous MV becoming a trend.
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Labradar Lite - No Bluetooth
- Thread starter EzGoingKev
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Funny you mention that, I have noticed the same thing in some of the logs. I'll need to pull the memory card and look through it properly, but I have been thinking I may even calculate SD and ES based off a downrange velocity measurement rather than V0 if I start to see the occasional erroneous MV becoming a trend.
Little titbit - (Data based on 6.5 CM 120 grain bullet BC = 0.414). Velocity should DECREACE uniformly going from 0 -> 100 Yards (minus 2 ft/sec per 1 yard). Velocity should never increase as distance/time increases. Not the case when viewing individual track data. Bear in mind that the velocity accuracy of LR is ± 0.1% (or 2.7 ft/sec @ 2700ft/sec).
Data from one of my tracks. Note @ 0.065021 sec vel = 2629.65 ft/sec and at 0.077021 sec it is 2642.88 ft/sec. Velocity indicates an INCREASE of 13 ft/sec – Hell-of-a Tail wind
| Time | Velocity - Ft/Sec | Distance - Yards | Velocity Delta |
0.050021 | 2640.38 | 44.88 | (6.39) |
0.051021 | 2648.11 | 45.76 | 7.73 |
0.060021 | 2632.12 | 53.68 | (15.99) |
0.065021 | 2629.65 | 58.06 | (2.47) |
0.077021 | 2642.88 | 68.61 | 13.23 |
0.079021 | 2655.89 | 70.38 | 13.01 |
0.093021 | 2649.04 | 82.75 | (6.85) |
0.100021 | 2656.27 | 88.94 | 7.23 |
Side comment – They should drop the decimal part of vel as outside of 0.1% accuracy. Also Limit time to the milliseconds as the 0.000021 is meaningless. Maybe the newer firmware corrects/Improves the LR. Just downloaded the latest firmware, but will not be able to check it until 1 Sep. when my range opens - lol
You might take a look at the signal to noise ratio for the readings that seem out of line. The Labrabaco tool I linked has built in filtering with three settings to deal with this.
The short bus has been heard from again.labradar has bluetooth?
probably you like to play with your phones more than you like to shoot?
SNR Typically mid-twenties for 0->25 Yards. 50 -> 100 Yards drops off, Lowest around 7. Added to chart I posted:
| Time | Velocity | Distance | Vel Delta | SNR |
0.050021 | 2640.38 | 44.88 | (6.39) | 10.32 |
0.051021 | 2648.11 | 45.76 | 7.73 | 7.73 |
0.060021 | 2632.12 | 53.68 | (15.99) | 11.56 |
0.065021 | 2629.65 | 58.06 | (2.47) | 7.07 |
0.077021 | 2642.88 | 68.61 | 13.23 | 7.58 |
0.079021 | 2655.89 | 70.38 | 13.01 | 7.07 |
0.093021 | 2649.04 | 82.75 | (6.85) | 7.24 |
0.100021 | 2656.27 | 88.94 | 7.23 | 9.06 |
It indicates poor alignment and/or a noisy range. With a larger diameter the SNR should be better than that.
With .22LR SNR at 45 yards is in the 17.x range, @60yds 13.x, @70yds 11.x, @85yds 10.x from some of my sessions as a comparison.
What math or filtering LabRadar applies internally to sort that I've not seen mentioned anywhere.
Since it was able to track a .264 boattail bullet to 99 Yards, Typical max for 264 dia FLAT base bullet is about 70 Yards. I feel the alignment was pretty good, with poor alignment only tracks to about 50 Yards. Environment May not have been the best. As to Typical max range found this:
- 4,5mm/.177 pellets or BB — 27,4 metres (30 yards)
- .22 Long Rifle / .223 Remington — 54,8 meters (60 yards)
- .270 — 64 meters (70 yards)
- .308 — 73 to 91 meters (80 to 100 yards)
- 9 mm, .40 Smith & Wesson, .45 ACP, .500 Smith & Wesson — 118,8 meters (130 yards)
- 12 gauge, Slug loads — 82,29 meters (90 yards)
- Arrows or Paintball — 45,7 meters (50 yards)
What firmware were you using?
For that session 1.2.7, was 100 rounds while adjusting a tuner after install (ironically also learned there WAS a 100 shot series limit then).
I currently have 1.3.2 but not done something that extensive since I loaded it.
I will be switching to a new lot of SK soon so will need to revisit it. Yes the conditions on that range were ideal for tracking.
My data was with FW 1.2.4. Have recently updated 1.3.3, But cannot check until the range I use opens (1 Sept)
The output Voltage for NiMH batteries (3 in series) is 3.6 Volts. Optimum Voltage is 4.6 Volts. Not sure if the lower voltage would reduce the radar power output (I would think it would). I current use an external source – Li-ION jump start w/USB output- Eout is typically 5.1 V @ 30,000+ mWHrs.
I’m thinking of Using NiZn rechargeable AA batteries, Eout voltage is 1.65 V (x3 = 4.95 V). Only drawback is that their open circuit voltage (Freshly charged) is 1.8 Volts, or x3 = 5.4 Volts. But then this is comparable to the Energizer Ultimate AA LI Non-rechargeable and I see NO warning NOT to use them.
Specs for USB 1 is Eout 4.75V -> 5.25 Eout and for USB2 it is 4.75V -> 5.4 V
Personally, I never use NiMH for electronics (Note Caution -May Not Work in all electronic devices)
While I prefer my Jump start w/USB output, For Internal I would use rechargeable Li 1.5 Volt Batteries.
Note: Battery is 3.7 V Li-ion w/built in regulator so Eout is 1.5 V. Also charger is built into the battery so Just plug USB cable directly into battery to recharge it.
Or
Alternate, But probably better than NiMH is Li. 3400 mWh (2266 mAHrs)/ 1.5 Volts. $21 x 2
Amazon.com: Deleepow Rechargeable AA Batteries Lithium USB 1.5V 3400mWh Lithium AA Batteries with USB-C Cable 1500 Cycles 4-Pack : Health & Household
Or 1700 mAHR - $16 x 2
Amazon.com: AA Rechargeable Batteries 1.5V / 2600mAh, USB-C AA Battery Lithium-ion Battery, 1.5h Fast-Charge,Not Need Extra Batteries Charger, The Battery can be Recycled 1200 Times-4 Pack : Health & Household
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Guys,
I recommend not introducing more than 5V to the USB socket which is the international USB voltage standard.
As for the internal Labradar battery compartment, it is wired into two parallel circuits of 4.5V. So, in electrical speak it is not 6S but 3S2P (3 series,in 2 parallel). You can see this in photos of the radar when it is opened up. That means there is no more than 5V from either the USB port or the compartment. Any more and you will cook it.
You can certainly build whatever external battery you want as long as it is then regulated to 5V going in. This can be done with a voltage regulator in between a higher voltage battery and the radar. Something like this on EBay for $5.
Then you can then use whatever batteries you have on hand. In this case it is 6x18650 Li-ion laptop batteries soldered in 2S3P with a capacity of about 7.5Ahr. The pack is 8.2V when fully charged down to 6V when the protection circuit kicks in for 'empty'. That range is too much voltage for the radar so note the voltage regulator in the yellow and green heat-shrink between the battery and radar. A battery like that will last the whole day or several shooting sessions.
I recommend not introducing more than 5V to the USB socket which is the international USB voltage standard.
As for the internal Labradar battery compartment, it is wired into two parallel circuits of 4.5V. So, in electrical speak it is not 6S but 3S2P (3 series,in 2 parallel). You can see this in photos of the radar when it is opened up. That means there is no more than 5V from either the USB port or the compartment. Any more and you will cook it.
You can certainly build whatever external battery you want as long as it is then regulated to 5V going in. This can be done with a voltage regulator in between a higher voltage battery and the radar. Something like this on EBay for $5.
Then you can then use whatever batteries you have on hand. In this case it is 6x18650 Li-ion laptop batteries soldered in 2S3P with a capacity of about 7.5Ahr. The pack is 8.2V when fully charged down to 6V when the protection circuit kicks in for 'empty'. That range is too much voltage for the radar so note the voltage regulator in the yellow and green heat-shrink between the battery and radar. A battery like that will last the whole day or several shooting sessions.
THANKS!! I edited my Post.
two thoughts - 1) I stuck my foot in my mouth and 2) definition of Assume - to make a AS_ of me
I should have looked inside the battery compartment - I would have seen 6x slots!! I've never used internal batteries, only external battery pack.
You Show your external battery pack ->regulator -> a plug in located above the SD slot. Mine does not have that as an input
Added: Max Voltage is either 5.25V (Spec for USB1 Up to 0.5A)) or more probably 5.4 V (Spec for USB2 up to 1.5 Amps some provide up to 2.5A)
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Sorry I should have mentioned - I installed a dedicated power socket above the SD card after the Micro-USB socket started to get sloppy. I've had this radar for a few years and that USB socket is not meant for constant brutal use. Power was cutting out if the plug was loose.
To install the power socket you have to open up the radar, and that's how I know the way the battery compartment is wired. There are 8 screws - one is hidden under the 'VOID WARRANTY' sticker (the warranty is only valid for a year and mine had expired). Plenty of internal space above the SD Card slot. I soldered the power socket leads to the battery compartment leads so it is a pretty easy fix if you are game. I've stopped using the Micro-USB port.
This is the power socket. Price in Australia dollars but will be cheaper over your way.
I use the battery compartment to store a kinetic trigger and cable.
The radar draws 800mA when emitting/glowing orange. Much less when on Standby/blue. As long as your battery packs can handle 800mA which is not a lot then all good.
To install the power socket you have to open up the radar, and that's how I know the way the battery compartment is wired. There are 8 screws - one is hidden under the 'VOID WARRANTY' sticker (the warranty is only valid for a year and mine had expired). Plenty of internal space above the SD Card slot. I soldered the power socket leads to the battery compartment leads so it is a pretty easy fix if you are game. I've stopped using the Micro-USB port.
This is the power socket. Price in Australia dollars but will be cheaper over your way.
I use the battery compartment to store a kinetic trigger and cable.
The radar draws 800mA when emitting/glowing orange. Much less when on Standby/blue. As long as your battery packs can handle 800mA which is not a lot then all good.
