Labradar problems

Boatninja

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  • Sep 3, 2018
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    Out there somewhere
    I've had it out three times now and not much success, last time it kept saying couldn't track projectile. no other shooters. I was wondering if wind could be triggering it? also curious what settings others are using. I'm usually pretty good with computers & electronic stuff, VERY FRUSTRATED, I must be missing something.
     
    How are you aiming it? Once I got that part set, it became an easy setup fro me.



    If you have the luxury of an empty range, I’d start with getting it aligned enough to have it track on Doppler mode. Then play around with the trigger settings.
     

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    The message indicating projectile could not be tracked means you're at least getting a trigger. If your sensitivity level and /or rifle-handgun setting is mismatched to the round you're shooting and doesn't trigger, the display just sits there unchanged.

    Most likely, you have an aiming problem. You might try cutting about 3-5" of the barrel of a thin ball-point pin and tape it securely into the aiming notch. Use this to sight your target - step back from it to obtain the smallest target image you can through the barrel. Once you start tracking rounds, pay attention to the return-signal "bar graph" for each round - the more bars you have, the stronger the return - hence an indication of proper aim. With a 6.5CM, I look for all or all but one of the bars to be solid.

    Here are the sensitivity settings that work for me. I use the plate Labradar sells as a mount.
    • 6.5CM, APA "Little B*rd" brake (major side blast): Unit is placed about even with and nearly touching the scope turret to avoid blast. Rifle setting, sensitivity level 3.
    • .223, no brake: unit placed even with muzzle, about 6" to the side. Rifle setting, sensitivity level 1.
    • 9mm pistol or PCC: same as .223 but handgun setting.
    • .22LR: Place the microphone sold as an accessory to the unit VERY close to muzzle - in front, to the side just enough to keep from shooting it. Handgun setting, sensitivity level 1.
    I haven't missed a reading in several hundred, if not into the thousands, of rounds now. With the .22, I did have initial difficulty and call LR tech support right from the range. Quick and helpful.

    There are other threads here describing sighting and triggering accessories that are available. These may be more convenient, but in my experience not truly necessary.

    EDIT: Let me reiterate that the unit must be placed clear of brake blast. As described, I place mine adjacent to and almost touching the scope turret. A friend of mine uses a large, heavy tripod to essentially suspend his LR above the brake-blast line.

    Good luck.
     
    Last edited:
    The message indicating projectile could not be tracked means you're at least getting a trigger. If your sensitivity level and /or rifle-handgun setting is mismatched to the round you're shooting and doesn't trigger, the display just sits there unchanged.

    Most likely, you have an aiming problem. You might try cutting about 3-5" of the barrel of a thin ball-point pin and tape it securely into the aiming notch. Use this to sight your target - step back from it to obtain the smallest target image you can through the barrel. Once you start tracking rounds, pay attention to the return-signal "bar graph" for each round - the more bars you have, the stronger the return - hence an indication of proper aim. With a 6.5CM, I look for all or all but one of the bars to be solid.

    Here are the sensitivity settings that work for me. I use the plate Labradar sells as a mount.
    • 6.5CM, APA "Little B*rd" brake (major side blast): Unit is placed about even with and nearly touching the scope turret to avoid blast. Rifle setting, sensitivity level 3.
    • .223, no brake: unit placed even with muzzle, about 6" to the side. Rifle setting, sensitivity level 1.
    • 9mm pistol or PCC: same as .223 but handgun setting.
    • .22LR: Place the microphone sold as an accessory to the unit VERY close to muzzle - in front, to the side just enough to keep from shooting it. Handgun setting, sensitivity level 1.
    I haven't missed a reading in several hundred, if not into the thousands, of rounds now. With the .22, I did have initial difficulty and call LR tech support right from the range. Quick and helpful.

    There are other threads here describing sighting and triggering accessories that are available. These may be more convenient, but in my experience not truly necessary.

    EDIT: Let me reiterate that the unit must be placed clear of brake blast. As described, I place mine adjacent to and almost touching the scope turret. A friend of mine uses a large, heavy tripod to essentially suspend his LR above the brake-blast line.

    Good luck.
    [/QUOTE
     
    I took someone along this last time to shoot so I could concentrate on LR, he was shooting a .243 suppressed. LR was triggering when there were no shots. I was previously shooting a 6mm Creed with a Silencerco Harvster (sideblast) I tried all over, in front , back, with mic, without etc. I have read the destructions over and over. I have rigged up a sighting device now, will try next opportunity. I must have something haywire in settings, also tried changes there.........
     
    Wind will definitely trigger the mic if you're using one, and you'll get that message. I've never had wind trigger without the mic before though. A nearby shooter could trigger the unit as well. Also the OFFSET function could be more clear in the instructions. It is the measurement of how far TO THE SIDE OF THE RIFLE you have the unit placed. I keep mine on the lowest setting (6 inches) and place the unit right beside the rifle action. I have seen people get that setting wrong and experience your issue - the shot will trigger the unit, but it is "looking" in the wrong place for the projectile (just like not having it aimed properly). Shooting suppressed, I have the best results using the mic placed right below the suppressor near the muzzle, Trigger Setting on the most sensitive setting (ie 1, which is counter-intuitive), Offset on 6inches, and the unit placed right next to the rifle action. Call the folks at LR if you're still having problems. They are very helpful and will get you going.
     
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    Wind will definitely trigger the mic if you're using one, and you'll get that message. I've never had wind trigger without the mic before though. A nearby shooter could trigger the unit as well.
    Interesting. I've never had wind cause a trigger with the mic, so this is a new knowledge bit for me. I have definitely had nearby shooters trigger the unit, especially with the mic, and I've actually gotten a few bizarre velocities reported with such triggers - that happened when my buddy was shooting a .308 with an ultra-obnoxious brake on the next bench and his target was close to mine downrange.

    LR support is definitely helpful. I found it easy and quick to get them on the phone and my issue was resolved in real time on the range.
     
    I that I am missing
    Wind will definitely trigger the mic if you're using one, and you'll get that message. I've never had wind trigger without the mic before though. A nearby shooter could trigger the unit as well. Also the OFFSET function could be more clear in the instructions. It is the measurement of how far TO THE SIDE OF THE RIFLE you have the unit placed. I keep mine on the lowest setting (6 inches) and place the unit right beside the rifle action. I have seen people get that setting wrong and experience your issue - the shot will trigger the unit, but it is "looking" in the wrong place for the projectile (just like not having it aimed properly). Shooting suppressed, I have the best results using the mic placed right below the suppressor near the muzzle, Trigger Setting on the most sensitive setting (ie 1, which is counter-intuitive), Offset on 6inches, and the unit placed right next to the rifle action. Call the folks at LR if you're still having problems. They are very helpful and will get you going.

    I think 15 minutes with an experienced operator would clear up everything. I feel like it is a "dummy" thing and will feel really stupid when I find what I am missing or doing wrong. There is never enough time at the range and having to deal with problems such as this is no fun and eats up valuable range time.
     
    What are you running as a power source? what brand of AA's or are you using a usb power pack? What firmware are you running?

    I run a usb power pack and have no issues suppressed or unsuppressed.
     
    There are 2 large pine trees left side and 15 yards forward of the firing line at a range I visit. If I set up to close, like within 10 yards to the right of them, my labradar will not track. Move further away, tracks perfect.
     
    Learned today, if you are running a muzzle brake, position the Labradar back from the muzzle a ways. Mine wouldn't trigger unless it was about even with the forend of my rifle.
    That’s why I use a recoil trigger device on my LabRadar now. Doesn’t matter where you position the rifle as long as the LabRadar is aimed properly at the target.
     
    That’s why I use a recoil trigger device on my LabRadar now. Doesn’t matter where you position the rifle as long as the LabRadar is aimed properly at the target.

    What is the recoil trigger device? I haven't seen that before. Seems like a good idea.
     
    Rigged sighting device, thank’s
    A really easy way to aim it is to take the lower part of a ball point pen (the BARREL?) and pack it along with your labradar stuff. Then, when you set it up just take the pen Barrel (actually a short chunk of a drinking straw will work, too) and lay it in the little aiming notch on top of the labradar---look through the tube (holding the tube down to/against the Labradar to keep it steady) as you position the labradar so you can point it EXACTLY at the target---and that should get it aimed about as good as you can get it. I can't remember who told me about this method, but t that guy told me the very best (most accurate/official??o_O) thing to use was either the lower part of a BERGER BULLETS advertising pen or even the same thing with LAPUA the logo on it. That works for me---or at least it impresses my shooting buddies, seeing as how they DON'T seem to be all impressed with my actual SHOOTING ABILITY!?!?!?!?
     
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    Zombie thread.
    I played with mine in earnest for the first time today. I've used it a few times, but we did 18 groups with it today. Different loads in different rifles, .308 and .223. Busy range so it wasn't flawless, but we got about 85% of the shots. They were all heavily braked 3-gun rifles. We had 6-8" offset, and had to get the muzzles within about 6-8" forward of the radar to trigger. Set to Trigger 1. The range is "no blue sky," so concrete baffles over the whole length of the 100yd range.
     
    Perhaps a zombie thread, but I have to tell you as someone who is well versed with technology items and works in technology.... this LabRadar chrono is seemingly unreliable at best and sometimes a downright piece of you know what.

    The folks at LabRadar ARE helpful, but they are not shooters. They are technologists.

    I spent another day recently getting frustrated with my LabRadar yesterday - doppler, trigger, settings, other experts at the range - at one point it almost got relegated to the garbage.

    The most frustrating aspect is when I am dong a ladder test and the unit fails to capture shots. Sometimes it captures all 5 of min in a ladder segment and then the next segment it captures none. The aiming of the device is an exercise in black magic! Some of the folks at my range have red dots mounted on theirs - the after market contraptions to make this usable are many and notable.

    Yes, venting here a little bit - but I can tell you from first hand experience at the range that LabRadar is a great sales agent for the new Garmin Chrono.

    Thanks for all your postings, good to know that I've experienced what others have.