LabRadar Question?

[dustingaunder]

I have the recoil trigger for mine as I shoot almost exclusively suppressed. It works great. My only gripe is when you jiggle the rifle too much moving or closing the bolt it triggers and gives the shot not detected error press enter to continue.
My question is will it continue to record subsequent shots if I don’t crawl up to the line and press enter? I’ve always done it but dang if it’s not annoying to have to break position to go up and do it. I’ve been hesitant to keep shooting and miss the shots.
I wish they would make this message go away after a few seconds without any user input.

 

[99106]

Get the bluetooh app for your phone or use internal doppler trigger instead.

 

[dustingaunder]

I have the app. I didn’t see the ability to press enter on the app. The internal triggers won’t work well suppressed.

 

[sam4886]

The app has been able to clear everything I've encountered. I also use mine suppressed all the time without any additional triggers. Set up the radar about 4 inches in front of the end of the can and about 3 inches to the side, trigger sensitivity set to 1.

 

[sam4886]

The app has been able to clear everything I've encountered. I also use mine suppressed all the time without any additional triggers. Set up the radar about 4 inches in front of the end of the can and about 3 inches to the side, trigger sensitivity set to 1.

Also, I'm pretty sure that it picked up shots after errors before I was using the app without clearing them, but not 100% sure.

 

[dustingaunder]

I tried it for a long time without the recoil trigger and it misses too many shots to be useful to me.

 

[rustyinbend]

Set the sensitivity in the Labradar to a lesser sensing number. Do you have the JP version? Mine works perfectly.

 

[whatsupdoc]

Have you guys tried setting the trigger to Doppler and not using the external trigger.
I dont have a can but on my rimfires I set the trigger to Doppler and it works just fine.

 

[dustingaunder]

I have the sensitivity set to 1. The Doppler trigger is supposed to be used for slow stuff like handguns and whatnot.

 

[whatsupdoc]

Yea, never tried doppler trigger and rifle setting but now out of curiosity I will try it.

 

[rustyinbend]

If you trigger from "Doppler" ... the recoil-sensing trigger port isn't used. The Labradar will look for the bullet instead of sound/concussion or other means. Using the recoil sensor with the Labradar set to "Doppler" won't use the external sensor port at all. Try using the recoil trigger at a different sensitivity ... that's what worked for me. Oh ... and not slamming the bolt is a good idea too.

 

[vh20]

OP - the answer to your question is Yes. Just keep shooting. As long as the Armed light is lit Orange it will record. If you see the error message and the light is orange, your Shot # will be correct. If you get a weird velocity reading instead, you will have to delete that one to keep your Shot #s in order.

 

[dustingaunder]

If you trigger from "Doppler" ... the recoil-sensing trigger port isn't used. The Labradar will look for the bullet instead of sound/concussion or other means. Using the recoil sensor with the Labradar set to "Doppler" won't use the external sensor port at all. Try using the recoil trigger at a different sensitivity ... that's what worked for me. Oh ... and not slamming the bolt is a good idea too.

I’ll fiddle with it some more. My range is really picky about reaching over the red line when the line is hot. If I shoot prone with my longer rifles I have to push the unit forward and over the line so no touching. I use the app but I don’t think on iPhone there is an option to hit that enter button to get it to go back to the velocity screen. I can see it still triggering (flashing orange) while on that screen but I can’t tell if the shot number is incrementing because the screen doesn’t go away until you hit enter.
I tried a higher sensitivity but had it stop triggering with the recoil trigger at 2. I don’t slam the bolt I have to be very careful to run the bolt like it’s made of thin glass to keep the trigger from triggering on the bolt.
I love having this thing as a tool but it’s so damn fiddly I wish it just worked for me better. I would use it a lot more.

 

[dustingaunder]

I set it up in the house. It looks like setting 5 or 6 for sensitivity will solve my problem. 3 is what I was using. 5 is still easy to trigger with a flick of my finger. 6 I have to tap it on something hard. I can’t thump it hard enough.

I noticed it picking up some errant velocities just from me triggering it. If it picks up a new velocity it looks like it goes immediately to the velocity screen. Hopefully this helps it be less frustrating at the range.
There’s definitely no way to acknowledge the error from the iPhone app.

I’ve had good luck with it picking up my shots and giving me velocities all the way to 100 yards. I have it set from 20, 40, 60, 80, and 100. I don’t use them for anything but it lets me know my alignment is right. If it’s close but slightly off it’ll stop reading at 40 or 60. I try to adjust the aim until I get all of them. It’s tougher with smaller calibers too I’ve noticed.

 

[vh20]

Don’t know if you read my post, but if you just get the Error message, your shot sequence will remain correct. Just continue shooting and it will continue recording in the correct sequence. You don’t have to clear the message at all. Just keep shooting if the light is still orange. If it records an errant velocity, then you’ll need to delete it to keep your sequence correct.

 

[whatsupdoc]

I have the sensitivity set to 1. The Doppler trigger is supposed to be used for slow stuff like handguns and whatnot.

Yesterday I tested my Labradar with the speed set to Rifle and the trigger set to Doppler and it was clocking my 223 just fine.

 

[dustingaunder]

I tested it out today with the recoil trigger. Sensitivity set to 4 was money. No missed shots and no bolt issues.

 

[Jumper]

I've struggled with mine to get it to detect shots with the suppressor. I basically did the same thing previous poster said, position it 4in in front of the muzzle 3in off to the side. I was going to try and use it in the Doppler trigger mode. When using it in the Doppler trigger mode does it provide a muzzle velocity? Or, just the first velocity at the distance it's first detected?

 

[whatsupdoc]

I've struggled with mine to get it to detect shots with the suppressor. I basically did the same thing previous poster said, position it 4in in front of the muzzle 3in off to the side. I was going to try and use it in the Doppler trigger mode. When using it in the Doppler trigger mode does it provide a muzzle velocity? Or, just the first velocity at the distance it's first detected?

I tried both settings on a 223 bolt action, HOT day first five doppler trigger averaged 3080FPS second five on the acoustic trigger averaged 3091fps. No cooling time between strings. Slight difference in average velocity could be the trigger source the ammo or the barrel heating up.

 

[Cascade Hemi]

I tested it out today with the recoil trigger. Sensitivity set to 4 was money. No missed shots and no bolt issues.

My LR won't pick up suppressed 223 with the kinetic trigger on any sensitivity, I have to remove the can. Larger cartridges work fine.

 

[Woollymonster]

I have one of the early Lab Radars. It will not pick up a suppressed shot without this:

Air Gun Trigger Adapter

I can turn the trigger level down when using the microphone but it will still pick up some down line shots. And yes, I do have to press Enter before it will arm with the Orange Light and continue to record.

That is not usually a problem because the unit is within arms reach without moving. I have got into the habit of looking for the orange light before squeezing the trigger so as not to miss any shots.

According to the user's manual, the Doppler Trigger Mode is less accurate than the internal microphone so, I never use it.

 

[Biscuits]

Bumping this one. Planning to buy an Labradar and either the external microphone or the recoil trigger. I'd prefer the microphone so that nothing has to attach to the gun. Will be used for 308, 308 suppressed, 6.5CM, 6.5CM suppressed, 303, 22LR, 22LR suppressed, 38/357.

Sometimes with only me on the range, other times with other shooters. Sometimes windy. Will the external microphone trigger do it for me, especially for the 22lr subsonic suppressed? There could be someone a lane or two over shooting a .357 magnum while I'm on the 22 with the LR.

 

[Biscuits]

Another question: Have read reports of the LR breaking if it falls over, off the tripod. Eg gets blown over by wind. If I wrap a couple of strips of neoprene around it for a shock absorber if it goes over, will that interfere with operation?

 

[vh20]

Bumping this one. Planning to buy an Labradar and either the external microphone or the recoil trigger. I'd prefer the microphone so that nothing has to attach to the gun. Will be used for 308, 308 suppressed, 6.5CM, 6.5CM suppressed, 303, 22LR, 22LR suppressed, 38/357.

Sometimes with only me on the range, other times with other shooters. Sometimes windy. Will the external microphone trigger do it for me, especially for the 22lr subsonic suppressed? There could be someone a lane or two over shooting a .357 magnum while I'm on the 22 with the LR.

Having both, the recoil trigger is a better solution than the mic. What is the reluctance to attach it to the gun? A magnet on the back of the recoil trigger, or a velcro dot is all it takes. For that matter, you can just drape it around the scope mount and let it hang and it will still work.

I haven't used it on 22lr, but for suppressed centerfire it's awesome. If it works for unsuppressed 22lr it will work for suppressed. Wind will trigger the mic constantly, as well as nearby shooters.

As for strips of neoprene to protect it, I don't know if that would affect operation (likely) but I really doubt it would help protect it. The best way to protect it is to not let it fall over. A flat base/plate mount for use with prone position or on a bench is best, as you can't knock/blow it over. The only reason to use a tripod I can see would be standing.

 

[6.5SH]

About 8-10" or so of shock cord and a barrel lock makes for a very versatile recoil trigger attachment.

Edit:
For tripod use a tripod that has a hook on the center column would be advised. I've used one of the Caldwell sand bags with a 25 Lb bag of bird shot on the ground and an adjustable nylon strap to secure mine. Some stouter tripods can take that directly on the hook.

 

[rustyinbend]

Bumping this one. Planning to buy an Labradar and either the external microphone or the recoil trigger. I'd prefer the microphone so that nothing has to attach to the gun. Will be used for 308, 308 suppressed, 6.5CM, 6.5CM suppressed, 303, 22LR, 22LR suppressed, 38/357.

Sometimes with only me on the range, other times with other shooters. Sometimes windy. Will the external microphone trigger do it for me, especially for the 22lr subsonic suppressed? There could be someone a lane or two over shooting a .357 magnum while I'm on the 22 with the LR.

Agree 100% with others ... the Recoil Trigger is lightyears better than the Microphone option. Tried "Nothing" and "Microphone" and had issues with both, but "Zero" issues with the recoil trigger. Just be gentle on chambering a new round. If you're a "Bolt-Slammer", it won't work as well as it could. Bottom line ... buy the Recoil Trigger.

 

[Biscuits]

I've thought about my usage since the last post. I'd like to avoid the recoil trigger, if I can get the microphone to work. I want to keep the wires to a minimum and I will sometimes use it standing up. The reason I'm thinking of the Labradar is that I broke my Caldwell shoot through by tripping over the wire from the unit to my phone, so a bit wire shy. I'll go recoil trigger, only if the microphone either doesn't work or is a PITA.

I think almost 100% of the time I want to chrono a suppressed 22lr round, I will be on the range by myself. It's using the 6.5CM or 308 where I'll be sharing a range.

 

[goneballistic]

I’ll fiddle with it some more. My range is really picky about reaching over the red line when the line is hot. If I shoot prone with my longer rifles I have to push the unit forward and over the line so no touching. I use the app but I don’t think on iPhone there is an option to hit that enter button to get it to go back to the velocity screen. I can see it still triggering (flashing orange) while on that screen but I can’t tell if the shot number is incrementing because the screen doesn’t go away until you hit enter.
I tried a higher sensitivity but had it stop triggering with the recoil trigger at 2. I don’t slam the bolt I have to be very careful to run the bolt like it’s made of thin glass to keep the trigger from triggering on the bolt.
I love having this thing as a tool but it’s so damn fiddly I wish it just worked for me better. I would use it a lot more.

I set my LabRadar right next to me, about 6" in front of the action. I am lefty and set the LR on the right side, I can reach up with my support hand and work the controls without any problem. With the recoil trigger there's no real reason to push the Chrono out that far over the line. Move it back and a little to the side so the barrel isn't directly in front of it and it'll work great and you can reach up and manage it if you get erroneous trigger.

I also set my trigger sensitivity up 1 notch and I use the recoil trigger too, it's less sensitive but still gets all the shots.

 

[klemheist]

Playing around with the sensitivity scale on the radar is of no use with a kinetic trigger, the sensitivity is fixed in the switch.

Kinetic triggers are vibration switches, essentially a fixed post around a wobbly coil. When you shake them the coil wobbles and makes contact with the post, so it is ON/OFF only. There are only two active leads from the radar's 3.5mm socket so the radar cannot adjust the sensitivity of the external switch, that relates to the sensitivity of the microphone only.

I imagine sellers of these switches use the SW-180XX series switch, made in China. There are three sensitivities, 18010 light, 18020 medium, and 18030 stiff. They are more sensitive when jerked in one dimension than another. Changing the orientation of the switch on the gun is the only way you can change its sensitivity. It pays to know the orientation of the switch.

In this switch the fixed post is inline with the shape of the switch. Put the switch at right angles to the barrel and it's easier to trigger; attach it inline with the barrel (like in the photo) and it's harder. Not by much however as the gun jerks up as well as back. Attach it firmly to the gun, especially forward and its easier to trigger. Attach it closer to the shooter and not so firmly to the gun and it's harder to trigger.

With a kinetic switch you no longer have to have the radar forward or even level with the muzzle. You can have it right next to you so you can press the buttons without stretching, breaking your hold, or having to negotiate going forward of the firing line with the Range Safety Officer. No need to rely on the phone app which is almost a gimmick. The app drops out sometimes and you cannot transfer files to other smart devices so unless you are addicted to smart phones...

As vh20 has said, you don't have to press 'Reset' when the radar instructs you to - just keep shooting. I don't know why they programmed that message, a more accurate message would be DID NOT REGISTER A BULLET - KEEP SHOOTING.

.

 

[ThingsThatGoBang]

Playing around with the sensitivity scale on the radar is of no use with a kinetic trigger, the sensitivity is fixed in the switch.

Kinetic triggers are vibration switches, essentially a fixed post around a wobbly coil. When you shake them the coil wobbles and makes contact with the post, so it is ON/OFF only. There are only two active leads from the radar's 3.5mm socket so the radar cannot adjust the sensitivity of the external switch, that relates to the sensitivity of the microphone only.

I imagine sellers of these switches use the SW-180XX series switch, made in China. There are three sensitivities, 18010 light, 18020 medium, and 18030 stiff. They are more sensitive when jerked in one dimension than another. Changing the orientation of the switch on the gun is the only way you can change its sensitivity. It pays to know the orientation of the switch.
View attachment 7781602View attachment 7781606

In this switch the fixed post is inline with the shape of the switch. Put the switch at right angles to the barrel and it's easier to trigger; attach it inline with the barrel (like in the photo) and it's harder. Not by much however as the gun jerks up as well as back. Attach it firmly to the gun, especially forward and its easier to trigger. Attach it closer to the shooter and not so firmly to the gun and it's harder to trigger.

With a kinetic switch you no longer have to have the radar forward or even level with the muzzle. You can have it right next to you so you can press the buttons without stretching, breaking your hold, or having to negotiate going forward of the firing line with the Range Safety Officer. No need to rely on the phone app which is almost a gimmick. The app drops out sometimes and you cannot transfer files to other smart devices so unless you are addicted to smart phones...

As vh20 has said, you don't have to press 'Reset' when the radar instructs you to - just keep shooting. I don't know why they programmed that message, a more accurate message would be DID NOT REGISTER A BULLET - KEEP SHOOTING.

.

Thank you. Excellent info.
I 3D printed quick detach rail attachments for Picatinny and ARCA rail using 18020s and find it reliably triggers. No false readings from bolt slams.
I find it odd that Labradar reports a fair or poor signal though I’m using a switch based trigger, any thoughts why?

 

[6.5SH]

Thank you. Excellent info.
I 3D printed quick detach rail attachments for Picatinny and ARCA rail using 18020s and find it reliably triggers. No false readings from bolt slams.
I find it odd that Labradar reports a fair or poor signal though I’m using a switch based trigger, any thoughts why?
View attachment 7826673

The signal the "fair or poor" is referring to is the actual radar reflections it is reading.

You either have poor alignment to your target or possibly a "noisy" range that is producing a bunch of reflections (lots of metal or solids in the path of the radar).

If you look in the SD card you can examine the individual .TRK files for shots fired you can see how many yards out it was able to track and the signal to noise ratio as well.

 

[ThingsThatGoBang]

The signal the "fair or poor" is referring to is the actual radar reflections it is reading.

You either have poor alignment to your target or possibly a "noisy" range that is producing a bunch of reflections (lots of metal or solids in the path of the radar).

If you look in the SD card you can examine the individual .TRK files for shots fired you can see how many yards out it was able to track and the signal to noise ratio as well.

Thank you!
It was only me on a wide open 100 yard X 40 yard range, no significant noise nearby, no other activity on the range.
I thought I had it well aligned, using my 3D printed alignment viewer (photo). Will certainly pay greater attention. Four foot size cardboard target was at 100 yards if that matters.
As I’m interested only in muzzle velocity, it appears the signal warning has no bearing on the data I need. Right?
I will review the SD files later today. Thanks again.

 

[6.5SH]

Thank you!
It was only me on a wide open 100 yard X 40 yard range, no significant noise nearby, no other activity on the range.
I thought I had it well aligned, using my 3D printed alignment viewer (photo). Will certainly pay greater attention. Four foot size cardboard target was at 100 yards if that matters.
As I’m interested only in muzzle velocity, it appears the signal warning has no bearing on the data I need. Right?
I will review the SD files later today. Thanks again.
View attachment 7826722

If all you needed is MV and it is reliably recording that you are fine.

An additional source of a poor signal I forgot to mention is movement of the LabRadar. Muzzle blast, wobbly table, weak tripod or mount etc.

 

[klemheist]

TTGB,

That is an interesting 3D printed aiming aperture.

For aiming I hold a pen in the notch, and where it points is how I adjust the radar. I have also seen this setup with a tube or drinking straw with a couple of rubber bands.

For kinetic triggers and Picatinny rails here are a couple designs we trialed: a UTG rubber clip on rail cover, and a cheapy bubble level. Both work, but the simplest cheapest solution is always the best - an elastic band.

Yes, the bar on the LCD is unrelated to the trigger.

Klem