Lagging a gun safe and firearms insurance

[Quickdraw Outlaw]

Having my gun safe lagged to bare concrete slab tomorrow. Should I put some kind of pad between the safe bottom and concrete?

Working on getting firearms insurance. I see that the NRA offers this thru an outside insurance provider. Any thoughts on companies to use or is the NRA's provider a good option?

Thanks,

 

[Huckleberry75]

I have never put a pad between mine and the slab. To me, the pad is nothing more than a moisture magnet. Also, be sure that your bolts do not go all the way through the slab, this prevents moisture from rising up into the safe from under the slab.

Most home owners policies will add additional firearm insureance for a reasonable fee. Just check with your agent and shop around a little. Be sure to get replacement value, not cash value, especially of you have custom builds.

 

[Gosu]

I used a 1/2" thick solid phenolic off fall from a job I did. Phenolic like ABS does not absorb moisture. I suppose you could also solid surface or other things along the same lines. It needs to rigid off course. Personally, concrete takes years to cure, so I wouldn't put metal in any fashion to it without a vapor barrier of some sorts, but that is just me.

 

[bullseye13]

I am also interested in the OP's question about NRA firearms insurance. I'm not comfortable with anyone local having a list of my firearms and their value.

 

[Kooch]

I definitely have to agree with using something non absorbent and it definitely wouldn't hurt to raise them about a 1/2" or so. Though I'm going to contradict myself a bit, I have two safes, one that was bolted directly to a tile floor and one, that weighs 3400 lbs, that had to be elevated on two 1/2" x 4" strips of hardwood because of the jacks used for moving.

Back in 2008 the building where I kept the safes was flooded with about an inch of water. After several days I "thought" I had everything dried out. I even moved the smaller safe and removed water that was underneath. Moving the larger safe wasn't going to happen without professional help so it just stayed in place. Recently, I moved to another house and had the safes moved. When the larger safe was moved, I was able to peek under finding no rust despite having the hardwood strips. The smaller safe, though I originally moved it and dried underneath did have light rust. Its evident that the small strips of hardwood didn't retain mosture.

Both my safes in the new location are now elevated 1/2" just in case.

 

[Joe Curnarski]

You may wish to consider placing the safe atop four hockey pucks. They elevate the safe up from the floor, promote air circulation beneath, and don't attract moisture.

Just sayin'.

Joe

 

[Cobracutter]

Check out USAA for insurance.

Around $20K worth of insurance, worldwide coverage is less than $300 a year.

 

[Akiata]

I just got a quote from state farm for 18 k worth of firearms, $255 a year with no deductible BUT, you need to give them a list of the make and serial #. I'm not sure if I should do it.

 

[Glacier 10x]

I just got a quote from state farm for 18 k worth of firearms, $255 a year with no deductible BUT, you need to give them a list of the make and serial #. I'm not sure if I should do it.

My State Farm office wanted a professional appraisal and a home security system installed.

 

[Bunnypunter]

I'm associated with a company that shops roughly 30+ top rated insurers with 1 phone call. When I began using the company, my criteria was to find a insurance company that would not require serial #'s or appraisals. Based on my info they found me 3 companies that competed for my business. On top of what they already offered ($2500), I added an additional $7000 for about $12/month. If you want more info on having this company shop for insurers for you, PM me. I have been really impressed with the service they offered.

 

[NICETRY]

Also check the policy and see if they cover gun accessories too. Company I use will cover optics, gun cases, and suppressors. My coverage also extends beyond the home and will cover theft if it happens while I'm traveling. Some places will want serial numbers. Mine did and honestly I'm not to concerned them knowing it. You are asking them to insure your guns so they are going to know you have firearms in your home. Besides having a list of your guns with serial numbers is good to have should they be stolen even if you do not give it to your insurance provider.

 

[thrusty]

I used a horse stall mat from Tractor Supply to put between the concrete floor and the safe. It's does not absorb moisture, it does not compress (much) and it's tough stuff....well, it's designed for horses standing on it so it takes a beating.
I think the one I got was 3/8" thick and it was 4'x4'....about $25. Worked perfectly...
Here's a link to the larger one.... Rubber Horse Stall Mat, 4 ft. x 6 ft. - Tractor Supply Co.

 

[VTSEAL]

Safe installer I worked with recommended a ply of plastic sheeting under the safe as a moisture barrier, and nothing else underneath.

Elevate on Hockey Pucks? You may want to reconsider that plan. The point of bolting the safe to the floor is so that potential thieves cannot tip it over, which makes it much easier for them to crack. I just measured an NHL puck at 1", which is just about perfect for getting a couple heavy duty pry bars under the corner of your expensive new safe to pop those lag bolts.

 

[EL34]

Mine are elevated about 1.5" off the floor with strips of treated lumber, they are also lagged through the floor, and wall behind it.

 

[Quickdraw Outlaw]

Thanks for the responses. My house is 27 years old so concrete is cured out. Had the safe company lag it directly to the slab.

Below is a photo of the bolt and installed.