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Lapping Scope rings - I see mostly No but some Yes

E_T_G

Private
Minuteman
Mar 29, 2012
26
8
71
Las Vegas, NV
Hi.
I am old school (an also old :-( ) I have always lapped rings and dusted with rosin before tightening. Never had anything move on the 50s. I am mounting a NF ACACR 7-35 FFP using NF Extreme Ultralight 6 screw rings on a Styer factory rail. I lapped the last set of Vortex 6 screw rings and it took quite a bit of lapping to get to 90% contact. This is on a suppressed Styer SSG 04 in 300 Win Mag so really not the same force as a fifty. This is the most expensive scope I have bought and do not want to leave ring marks on the scope but at the same time I do not want to wast my time lapping if it isn't going to be needed. I read on one post where it was not necessary with NF rings. The last set I used on a SSG 08 in 308 didn't have much at all to lap. That was for a NF NX8 so about half the price of this scope.
Thanks for any recommendations.
E_T_G
 
Hi.
I am old school (an also old :-( ) I have always lapped rings and dusted with rosin before tightening. Never had anything move on the 50s. I am mounting a NF ACACR 7-35 FFP using NF Extreme Ultralight 6 screw rings on a Styer factory rail. I lapped the last set of Vortex 6 screw rings and it took quite a bit of lapping to get to 90% contact. This is on a suppressed Styer SSG 04 in 300 Win Mag so really not the same force as a fifty. This is the most expensive scope I have bought and do not want to leave ring marks on the scope but at the same time I do not want to wast my time lapping if it isn't going to be needed. I read on one post where it was not necessary with NF rings. The last set I used on a SSG 08 in 308 didn't have much at all to lap. That was for a NF NX8 so about half the price of this scope.
Thanks for any recommendations.
E_T_G
It’s 2024… Buy a quality 1-piece base and rings, and you won’t need to lap anything. My recommendation is an EGW HD base, and the ARC M-Brace rings. 👍🏼
 
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Hi.
I am old school (an also old :-( ) I have always lapped rings and dusted with rosin before tightening. Never had anything move on the 50s. I am mounting a NF ACACR 7-35 FFP using NF Extreme Ultralight 6 screw rings on a Styer factory rail. I lapped the last set of Vortex 6 screw rings and it took quite a bit of lapping to get to 90% contact. This is on a suppressed Styer SSG 04 in 300 Win Mag so really not the same force as a fifty. This is the most expensive scope I have bought and do not want to leave ring marks on the scope but at the same time I do not want to wast my time lapping if it isn't going to be needed. I read on one post where it was not necessary with NF rings. The last set I used on a SSG 08 in 308 didn't have much at all to lap. That was for a NF NX8 so about half the price of this scope.
Thanks for any recommendations.
E_T_G
I’m shocked you felt you needed to lap the Vortex rings as their better rings are made by Seekins and they know how to do modern precision machining.

How did you determine they needed lapping and how did you determine 90% contact, please?
 
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Depends on the receiver. The last rifle I had to lap rings for was a 700P that the scope mount screw holes were so far off line a one piece mount could not be used. Going to a two piece mount system left the rings out of alignment horizontally and vertically. Tightening up a scope in such a situation could lead to binding of and potential failure of the erector assembly. Yes, it took a lot of lapping to align the rings and mount the scope. Not the first Remington that has had this problem which is one reason I started building rifles with aftermarket actions. Never had this problem with factory pre-64s or CZs or old Browning/Sako made High Powers.

The blanket statement that no modern quality rings would ever need lapping is false.
 
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I’m shocked you felt you needed to lap the Vortex rings as their better rings are made by Seekins and they know how to do modern precision machining.

How did you determine they needed lapping and how did you determine 90% contact, please?
It's called machinist blue. When not even half of the inside of the rings show any sign of contact and the parts that do are on opposite side edges of the rings (and yes I did try the tops on the other direction) I know it will leave ring marks on the scope. I was just mounting a Viper PST but I still didn't want to bugger up the tube. The rings were like $60 or so - I doubt they were precision rings.
 
Some rings need it and can be made better by it. I always check reguardless even on high end units. Theres always tolorence and shops use it. People are involved as well and they are flawed. If they need more contact I lap with custom ground carbide mandrels to get full contact. Not every customer has 400-600 bones for scope mounts and ill never shame a guy who doesnt. Work with what you have.
 
Lapping was the old solution to poor production/quality parts, and largely due to separate scope rings being mounted on separate surfaces. With modern manufacturing, single piece scope mounts, and single piece rail mounting options, there is really no longer a need for it.
If you need to lap a set to rings today, the mounting surface(s) on the rifle are out of spec, and/or they are cheap or old rings that are out of spec. You could lap them, or you could solve the root cause of problem, and there will be no need to lap them.
Also, scope tube design has changed and improved. You can take a 34mm Vortex Razor or Nightforce ATACR (and others) and drive a framing nail into a 2x4 with no damage to the internals. The tubes are both much more precise and stronger.
If you buy high quality components, just mount them properly!
 
I would not ever buy any rings that needed to be lapped.

But, lapping rings does insure they fit the lapping bar precisely.
But not necessarily the scope. As you mentioned, it now matches the lapping rod. There are still variations in scope diameters and a well made set of rings tightened to the correct number will accommodate and secure the scope.
 
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Then the correct remedy is to have the scope base screw holes re-centered and tapped to 8-32. Lapping rings is stupid.
As I mentioned the receiver was off both with the bore alignment of the mounting holes AND the receiver heights were incorrect. Install the screws in the front of the one piece mount and there was a large gap between the rear of the mount and the receiver. Install the screws in the rear of the mount and the front of the mount was not horizontal but cocked up at an angle against the front of the receiver. Going to 8-32s would not solve that issue and shimming is less than perfect and something I don't do. Not like the mounts and rings are ever coming of that rifle.

I suppose that I could have used Burris insert rings but when they didn't hold a scope against recoil on a lightweight .300 RUM elk rifle I never went that route again even though the 700 is a .308.

So basically the most solid solution was two piece mounts and lapping. And if it solved both problems how stupid is it?
 
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As I mentioned the receiver was off both with the bore alignment of the mounting holes AND the receiver heights were incorrect. Install the screws in the front of the one piece mount and there was a large gap between the rear of the mount and the receiver. Install the screws in the rear of the mount and the front of the mount was not horizontal but cocked up at an angle against the front of the receiver. Going to 8-32s would not solve that issue and shimming is less than perfect and something I don't do. Not like the mounts and rings are ever coming of that rifle.

I suppose that I could have used Burris insert rings but when they didn't hold a scope against recoil on a lightweight .300 RUM elk rifle I never went that route again even though the 700 is a .308.

So basically the most solid solution was two piece mounts and lapping. And if it solved both problems how stupid is it?

Sounds like the most screwed up receiver ever! Definitely the far exception to the rule and something that truing/opening the scope mount holes and bedding the base to the receiver would have fixed and then not having to worry about lapping ever again. But if it's a screw together and leave then do what you like but it's not the norm at all.
 
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In principle, I’m not against lapping scope rings (although I’ve never done it).

But the thing I’ve done in the case of a R700 and an old Browning that I was worried about is to use Burris Signature rings. In both cases the bases were separate and not one-piece.

Signature ring’s plastic insert adjusts the MOA and also deals with any misalignment. They make beefy XTR rings and lighter types too.

The Zee Signature are a pretty good and lighter pic rail ring but I don’t see them on their site anymore? I see them for sale elsewhere.

Word of warning
You have to be cautious when tightening. Once you hear the torque wrench click, don’t keep going back over and over and over to the screws to retighten. It seems that this ring style just keeps slowly tightening.

I click twice on each screw, pretty much just like I do it on regular rings. I just ignore the slight movement on Signature rings after the second go round.