Gunsmithing Lathe chucks

[Twisted300Win MAG]

I picked up a South Bend 13" lathe with a 2 1/4" x 8TPI spindle. Once I get to the point where i feel that i'm good enough i plan to use this lathe for blueprinting actions and chambering barrels.The lathe is in good shape but didn't come with much accessories, and only one 6" bison 3 jaw chuck. I'm new to machine work so forgive my ignorance. My question is, what brand of chuck would be the most bang for the buck. I'm looking to add a 8-10" 4 jaw interdependent and a 8' 3 jaw self centering. Would I be better off buying a direct mount or a plain back and machine a back plate to fit my spindle. Like I said I'm on a limited budget and still have to buy other tooling so I'm trying to find what I can afford but not cheap out to the point of f'ing myself. I'v been looking on ebay and craigslist and its slim pickings.
any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks
Donald

 

[jonesturf]

Re: Lathe chucks

I'm in the same boat as you. Picked up 2 Heavy 10's. Right now I have 2-6" 3 jaws. One is a Cushman and the other a no name. And a 6" 4 jaw. Not sure about the shape they are in so I think I might just buy something better. Bison is a decent chuck. If you wanna get rid of your 6" I might be interested. If you get and 8" 3 jaw would you need the 6" too?

I think I will be using a 4 jaw more just so I can indicate things in. Everything I have read leans toward machining the plate to fit your machine. Check out tools4cheap. They have import stuff but it is supposed to be decent quality and good prices. What do you plan on machining with it? Sorry I couldn't be more help but I'm learning too.

 

[wtopace]

Re: Lathe chucks

That Bison is a fine chuck... in fact I just bought a brand new Bison for my 9" SouthBend. Starting out I would recommend a good 3 jaw and a good 4 jaw.

Most of your barrel work will be done in the 4 jaw and with fixtures.

I use my 3 jaw when accuracy is not a necessity (it will get you within a few thousandths, but don't count on it for chambering).

The 6" 3 jaw you have now is plenty big for most operations you will be doing that are gunsmithing related, I would save money for tooling.

Keep in mind that you can easily be in $1K just in rifle-specific tooling after your first build - and that isn't counting general machining tools (indicators, cutter bits, carbide [if you go this route, it can get expensive VERY quick], etc...). Don't spend money on new chucks right now if you aren't sure you need them.

Have fun and go make some chips, put that Bison to work!

 

[Twisted300Win MAG]

Re: Lathe chucks

Well right now I'm just practicing on aluminum(threading, boreing,faceing and turning to size) and some CM pipe that I plan on makeing my action jig out of and a spider for the outter spindle bore. I'v got a long way to go before I touch a barrel or action, but I'm trying to think ahead. I'll most likely keep the bison chuck because I know it works and may be a better choice for ops on smaller parts.

 

[rlr]

Re: Lathe chucks

When you look at the 3 or 6 jaw chucks, check the TIR of the chuck. Naturally teh least amount of runout is better. That could alleviate some headaches down the road.

I'd recommend a "Tru-Set" to give you a little more adjustment, and true your backplate to the machine.

 

[STR]

Re: Lathe chucks

Guys, the independant four jaw is great to have if you need to dial in odd shaped items for machining, or off setting an item. The three, and six jaw adjust true chucks are better, because they are easier to indicate with than a four jaw is. This might bring argument, but unless you have really tried it, don't. You will find pleanty of good used chucks on Ebay.

 

[sixtwoeightyfour]

Re: Lathe chucks

I have the same spindle mount on a taiwan lathe I have If you google fuerda chucks there is a company called tools 4 less that carries the chucks and backing plates. I have a 3-jaw set true Fuerda gator chuck on that lathe and it is a decent chuck especially for the price. On my sheldon I run a Buck 6-jaw set true and the fuerda is everybit as accurate although not as refined, if that makes sense. Backing plates are alot cheaper I think I payed a little less than 500 for the chuck and backing plate, which is less than I paid for the buck backing plate only.

I would go with a Set-tru design over a 4jaw, but that is just me. I dial in every barrel anyway.

 

[Mcoop8]

Re: Lathe chucks

I have a SB 14 that came with an off brand 3 jaw chuck and it is not so bad to indicate in. I wanted a 4 jaw and was looking all over for the correct D1-3 back. I found a few and was going to go with a buck + a backing plate. Then I ran across a gentleman that used to work for SB and purchased a bunch of NOS when they closed. He had a 4 jaw independent chuck made by SB still in the box. it took a little cleaning up but it is nice. If you want I will contact him to see if it is OK to post his contact info on this forum.

 

[Bill Larson]

Re: Lathe chucks

Most lathes are as good as the operator.
Get a 3 jaw chuck with soft jaws.... so you can bore them true..... .001"-.003" of repeateability.
Then when you`re ready for a 4 jaw or 6 jaw chuck....you`ll have enough expierience/money to get a good used chuck.
OMHO
bill larson

 

[MikeeBooshay]

Re: Lathe chucks

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: STR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Guys, the independant four jaw is great to have if you need to dial in odd shaped items for machining, or off setting an item. The three, and six jaw adjust true chucks are better, because they are easier to indicate with than a four jaw is. This might bring argument, but unless you have really tried it, don't. You will find pleanty of good used chucks on Ebay.
</div></div>

The right answer of course is BOTH! Just bought two set true chucks from Grizzly, one Pratt Burnett, one Buck, one for the big grizzly lathe , one for the hardinge. finished chambering the 338 Lapua this afternoon, after all, it;s 80 degrees, duck season is closed, too hot to deer hunt, might as well work on rifles. After finishing the chambering, moved the barrle over to the Hardinge to crown it. With the set-true on that, it took less than ten minutes to zero it, and cut the crown.

No way I was gonna zero it ten minutes, much less crown it too. Plus, that is a very solid work holding method. Can't wait to put the other one on the Grizzly. With that, and the DRO addition, should speed things up more!

 

[Mcoop8]

Re: Lathe chucks

The SB guy I mentioned earlier said it would be ok to post his contact info as he would be glad to help.

His name is Ted Pflugner and his email is [email protected]

He is a wealth of knowledge and he has access to all kinds of SB parts.

 

[STR]

Re: Lathe chucks

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mcoop8</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The SB guy I mentioned earlier said it would be ok to post his contact info as he would be glad to help.

His name is Ted Pflugner and his email is [email protected]

He is a wealth of knowledge and he has access to all kinds of SB parts. </div></div>

Thanks!

 

[hero's machine]

Re: Lathe chucks

one more benefit to the set true 6 jaw style vs a 4 jaw indy chuck is the ability to clamp the object tight in one sequence....no guessing if you can snug up one side more, no marring a finish because you moved the object in the chuck and it chewed on it.

 

[Twisted300Win MAG]

Re: Lathe chucks

Thank you all for the feedback. This site is a wealth of knowledge for someone just starting out. Thanks mcoop8 for the info on SB parts. My reason for wanting a 4 jaw independent is for odd shaped parts and that's how I was taught to dial something in that extra little bit that you need. I'm not really familiar with the set true method but I'm not ruling that out either. I'd like to see one in action dialing something in so I could make a more informed decision.I was just going with what I'v used before. I see a lot of smiths use 4 jaws and or spider set ups to dial in a bore(STR being one of them). My reasoning for wanting a larger 3 jaw is I'm not limiting myself to gun work(two addictions firearms and race cars/bikes) so I want that capability to chuck up larger items.

 

[E. Bryant]

Re: Lathe chucks

If I were starting off again, I'd go with both a set-tru style 3-jaw, and a 4-jaw. The set-tru chucks are quick and easy to use, and will suffice for most work. The 4-jaw, of course, can grasp things that aren't round, and if you do enough work, eventually you'll run into a problem that requires independent jaws.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">My reasoning for wanting a larger 3 jaw is I'm not limiting myself to gun work(two addictions firearms and race cars/bikes) so I want that capability to chuck up larger items. </div></div>

That is some smart thinking (especially if you have friends with similar addictions). Not every project is constrained to the diameter of an action or barrel.

 

[Mcoop8]

Re: Lathe chucks

one more thing, If you are just getting started and you want to get a crash course with out crashing your lathe. You may want to look into a DVD series called "Lathe Learnin" by precision measurement supply. It is a poorly produced video (dogs barking and phone ringing kind of thing) with a lot of good basic info for turning. It is not a gunsmith course it is a lathe course. He even focuses a portion of the course on tool grinding. He also shows proper set up of tool posts, 3 jaw chucks, 4 jaw chucks and plates. Its not as good as being there and watching but not everybody has access to a shop with a knowledgeable machinist. It can be found on Ebay for +/- 100.00 or you could call them at 210-681-2405.