I thought that I would make a post/short list for people that might want some tips with bedding. <span style="font-weight: bold">I am not a gunsmith. </span> I feel that people might benefit from a list of materials and a few lessons that I have learned, instead of asking the same questions, day in and day out. So here it goes:
<span style="font-weight: bold">This is NOT rocket science. I repeat this is NOT rocket science </span>
First things first things first, materials needed:
Stock
Barreled Action
Pillars
Masking Tape
Rubber Gloves
Dremel (small grinding/engraving attachments)
Plumbers Putty or Modeling Clay
Electrical Tape
Wide Popsicle Sticks, and Small Popsicle sticks
Q-tips
Paper Plates or Plastic Shallow Mixing Bowl
Exacto Knife, Utility Blade
Isopropyl Alcohol, or Acetone
Devcon Plastic Steel Putty or Marine Tex Gray
Stock prep is crucial. Mask off the areas around the action, and where the bottom metal goes. Mask off <span style="font-weight: bold">everything that you do not want the bedding to stick to on your stock </span>. Take the exacto blade, and make sure that you have nice clean lines around the area of the barrel channel, and action area.
Take the dremel with the small engraving attachment, and create some "mechanical locks" in the action area that is to be bedded. Deep holes, and engraved lines will work. Leave an area around the tang so the action has a reference point to sit on. If you have a heavy contour barrel, hog out an area of about 2" infront of the lug area for a support. Sporter contours don't need a barrel pad. Don't worry about looks because this is all going to get filled with bedding compound anyways. Rough it up so the bedding can "stick".
Now, dam up the areas in the mag well, and trigger area that you do not want the bedding to flow into. This will save you a mess, and make it easier to clean out the areas with the dremel later.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Metal Prep </span>
This in my opinion is the most crucial step of the whole process. Remove the bolt, and the trigger from your action. Take a picture first, if you can't remember how the trigger goes back in.
Now, take your plumbers putty, or modeling clay, and fill the areas where the tigger was. Take your popsicle stick (now refered to as "stick") and make sure the excess clay underneath the action is flush. Fill in all the holes that you don't want bedding to get into.
Next, put <span style="font-weight: bold"> two</span> layers of masking tape on the underside of the recoil lug, and on the muzzle side (front) of the lug. Cut these nice an even with the exacto or utility blade. Make sure the tape goes up the side of the action, the width of the recoil lug. This will allow the lug to have some clearance, and aid in seperating the action from the stock.
Take a papertowel, and put some alcohol on it and degrease your action and barrel, wear gloves because you don't want your greasy hands to defeat the purpose. Make sure you degrease well.
Now take the kiwi wax, and a q-tip. Wipe a thin layer over <span style="font-weight: bold"> EVERYTHING</span> on the action, and first 5 inches of the barrel. When I say everything I mean it. Inside the action, outside, and inside the lug recess area everywhere. If you want you can put some clay in that area, but be warned it is a pain in the ass to clean out later. But better safe than sorry. All you need is a thin film. I have never had an action stick while using this. Wipe it in your pillars, on your action screws, and in the holes where the screws tighten into. Put it on the bottom metal as well.
Now for the electrical tape. Take it and wrap it around the barrel about 4 inches from the forend of the stock. This will center your barrel in the barrel channel. Do many dry fits until the action fits perfectly level in the stock. Add or subtract the ring of tape, by wrapping it around the barrel or taking it off. Make sure it is exactly where you want it for a stress free job. I usually wrap it so that it is snug in the channel. When the screws are tightened down, it will give a little and fit perfectly. Hope that makes sense.
<span style="font-weight: bold"> Make sure that you do many dry runs to assure that the action is not tilted and is level in the stock. After this is accomplished it it time to mix up the bedding compound</span>
The main mistakes that I have made is not using enough bedding compound in the stock.
Mix bedding per manufacturers instructions. With Devcon, you have about 45 min. of work time. Mix it up good, with the large sticks, and your paper plates, or mixing bowl.
Now, slather that stuff into your stock, and use a shitload, the excess will squeeze out. Use the small sticks for this part. Be careful not it get it inside of your pillars. If you do, the release agent in there should keep it from bonding permanently. You can later knock it out. If you think you don't have enough in, you probably dont.
Ok, now put the barreled action into the stock. You should be practiced up by now. Set it in there, and then take the bottom metal, and action screws and tighten it down. Some guys wrap tape around the screws, or use long guide screws, but I find it easier with the plain action screws. It doesn't need to be HE-MAN tight, just snug.
By now the bedding will be oozing out everywhere. Take your q-tips and start cleaning up the edges around the stock. Use some Acetone or alcohol to get a smooth edge. There, your done for now.
Wipe the sweat off your brow, and check your shorts. Grab a beer or 3, and relax. Nothing but a waiting game now. With Devcon I wait until I can barely see my depressed fingernail in the putty on the plate. If it is firm, and can barely see nail mark, then you can take the action out of the stock. Loosen the screws, dont worry, if you did everything right and used enough wax, they'll come out. I usually take a rubber mallet and tap on top of the action to break it free. Be patient, and DONT Take a Cinder Block to your Rifle. Once the action comes out, clean up the areas that the bedding over flowed into with your exacto and dremel. Take your time, and watch your stock. Re-assemble the weapon, let it cure overnight and bingo, your done!
Hope this helps, anyone please feel free to interject.
<span style="font-weight: bold">This is NOT rocket science. I repeat this is NOT rocket science </span>
First things first things first, materials needed:
Stock
Barreled Action
Pillars
Masking Tape
Rubber Gloves
Dremel (small grinding/engraving attachments)
Plumbers Putty or Modeling Clay
Electrical Tape
Wide Popsicle Sticks, and Small Popsicle sticks
Q-tips
Paper Plates or Plastic Shallow Mixing Bowl
Exacto Knife, Utility Blade
Isopropyl Alcohol, or Acetone
Devcon Plastic Steel Putty or Marine Tex Gray
Stock prep is crucial. Mask off the areas around the action, and where the bottom metal goes. Mask off <span style="font-weight: bold">everything that you do not want the bedding to stick to on your stock </span>. Take the exacto blade, and make sure that you have nice clean lines around the area of the barrel channel, and action area.
Take the dremel with the small engraving attachment, and create some "mechanical locks" in the action area that is to be bedded. Deep holes, and engraved lines will work. Leave an area around the tang so the action has a reference point to sit on. If you have a heavy contour barrel, hog out an area of about 2" infront of the lug area for a support. Sporter contours don't need a barrel pad. Don't worry about looks because this is all going to get filled with bedding compound anyways. Rough it up so the bedding can "stick".
Now, dam up the areas in the mag well, and trigger area that you do not want the bedding to flow into. This will save you a mess, and make it easier to clean out the areas with the dremel later.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Metal Prep </span>
This in my opinion is the most crucial step of the whole process. Remove the bolt, and the trigger from your action. Take a picture first, if you can't remember how the trigger goes back in.
Now, take your plumbers putty, or modeling clay, and fill the areas where the tigger was. Take your popsicle stick (now refered to as "stick") and make sure the excess clay underneath the action is flush. Fill in all the holes that you don't want bedding to get into.
Next, put <span style="font-weight: bold"> two</span> layers of masking tape on the underside of the recoil lug, and on the muzzle side (front) of the lug. Cut these nice an even with the exacto or utility blade. Make sure the tape goes up the side of the action, the width of the recoil lug. This will allow the lug to have some clearance, and aid in seperating the action from the stock.
Take a papertowel, and put some alcohol on it and degrease your action and barrel, wear gloves because you don't want your greasy hands to defeat the purpose. Make sure you degrease well.
Now take the kiwi wax, and a q-tip. Wipe a thin layer over <span style="font-weight: bold"> EVERYTHING</span> on the action, and first 5 inches of the barrel. When I say everything I mean it. Inside the action, outside, and inside the lug recess area everywhere. If you want you can put some clay in that area, but be warned it is a pain in the ass to clean out later. But better safe than sorry. All you need is a thin film. I have never had an action stick while using this. Wipe it in your pillars, on your action screws, and in the holes where the screws tighten into. Put it on the bottom metal as well.
Now for the electrical tape. Take it and wrap it around the barrel about 4 inches from the forend of the stock. This will center your barrel in the barrel channel. Do many dry fits until the action fits perfectly level in the stock. Add or subtract the ring of tape, by wrapping it around the barrel or taking it off. Make sure it is exactly where you want it for a stress free job. I usually wrap it so that it is snug in the channel. When the screws are tightened down, it will give a little and fit perfectly. Hope that makes sense.
<span style="font-weight: bold"> Make sure that you do many dry runs to assure that the action is not tilted and is level in the stock. After this is accomplished it it time to mix up the bedding compound</span>
The main mistakes that I have made is not using enough bedding compound in the stock.
Mix bedding per manufacturers instructions. With Devcon, you have about 45 min. of work time. Mix it up good, with the large sticks, and your paper plates, or mixing bowl.
Now, slather that stuff into your stock, and use a shitload, the excess will squeeze out. Use the small sticks for this part. Be careful not it get it inside of your pillars. If you do, the release agent in there should keep it from bonding permanently. You can later knock it out. If you think you don't have enough in, you probably dont.
Ok, now put the barreled action into the stock. You should be practiced up by now. Set it in there, and then take the bottom metal, and action screws and tighten it down. Some guys wrap tape around the screws, or use long guide screws, but I find it easier with the plain action screws. It doesn't need to be HE-MAN tight, just snug.
By now the bedding will be oozing out everywhere. Take your q-tips and start cleaning up the edges around the stock. Use some Acetone or alcohol to get a smooth edge. There, your done for now.
Wipe the sweat off your brow, and check your shorts. Grab a beer or 3, and relax. Nothing but a waiting game now. With Devcon I wait until I can barely see my depressed fingernail in the putty on the plate. If it is firm, and can barely see nail mark, then you can take the action out of the stock. Loosen the screws, dont worry, if you did everything right and used enough wax, they'll come out. I usually take a rubber mallet and tap on top of the action to break it free. Be patient, and DONT Take a Cinder Block to your Rifle. Once the action comes out, clean up the areas that the bedding over flowed into with your exacto and dremel. Take your time, and watch your stock. Re-assemble the weapon, let it cure overnight and bingo, your done!
Hope this helps, anyone please feel free to interject.
