Lightweight Pills for .308 1/10twist

demolitionman

Send’r Bud
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 26, 2013
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Midwest
Hi guys, I don't have alot of love for the recoil of my bull barrelled .308. I'm currently shooting 175 SMK's out of it and frankly, I just find myself not wanting to shoot it whatsoever compared to my 6mm, and 6.5. Maybe I'm just a big pussy, but that leads me to my question; I am interested in shooting lighter projectiles like the 110 Sierra Varminter or the 125 SMK. It's kind of hard to find much information on these bullets in bolt guns, as most everything I'm finding with lighter .308 projectiles is for the 300 Blackout. Really I'm interested in any light weight bullet that you all have experience with.

Are any of you specifically shooting these lighter pills successfully? I feel 600 yards would be as far as I would reasonably expect these lighter lower bc bullets to perform at. My main goal is lessening recoil without going to reduced loads with slow velocities. I'd still like to see some pep out of these 110 to 130 grainers. Any thoughts? Thanks!!
 
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have you thought about just adding weight to the rifle?.....or a muzzle break?

my current 308 is right around 12 lbs.....hardly any recoil......
 
have you thought about just adding weight to the rifle?.....or a muzzle break?

my current 308 is right around 12 lbs.....hardly any recoil......

Yes, I thought of getting a McRees G7 chassis, as I think it is one of the heavier ones available. Far as running a brake, I didn't really want to go that route for sound reasons as it is to my understanding brake's make an awful lot more noise to surrounding shooters as well as to the shooter himself, and I have never delt with a gunsmith that didn't have a 6 month wait, although I do know a machinist who I would think could thread my barrell for a brake if I gave him the proper TPI ......the lighter pills aren't such a good move eh?
 
The best bet for you in recoil reduction would be to add a muzzle brake.

LRI (longrifles inc) for example has some extremely fast turn arounds.

If you go lighter pills it'll help but again not by much. You're also going to maybe make up in velocity (based of you not wanting to shoot reduced loads) and that'll just add to recoil.

Here's a quick pros and cons list:

-pro brake:
-best in recoil reduction period
-allows you to shoot better BC bullets at higher velocities
-no need to compromise
-you can get specifically designed brakes to meet your criterias (i.e. Muzzle blast direction, addition of suppressor, etc).

-con brake:
-cost of threading a muzzle
-not allowed in FT-R shoots
-can be bad for nearby shooters *id take this with a grain of salt. Unless it's a sanctioned match why does it matter
-cost of brake

-pro reduced bullet weight
-cheapest alternative than adding a brake for recoil reduction
-if you're shooting 600 yards and under, a lighter faster bullet in the right conditions give you the same results as a heavier bullet in the same distance

-con reduced bullet weight
-not a true "muzzle reduction" just a mere by product
-I don't believe there's been methodical testing but the recoil reduction would be very negligible in my opinion.

really depends how you want to go about this. Personally I run brakes and the only time I don't is when I shoot FT-R matches.
the wait the for a threaded muzzle is not really a concern. Plenty of reputable single smiths and shops here vetted on the hide can handle it in a day or so. Prices vary smith to smith so due diligence is on you.

If you didn't know you don't have to send the whole rifle in. Barrel would suffice. It'll help if you knew what brake you wanted and better yet if they have it ok hand so it can match your profile and be timed (if timing is needed).
 
I tried some 125 nosler ballistics tips a long time ago in my light 3006 for this same reason. I only got a load half developed but it didn't kick noticeably less than a 150 did but I could tell that the wind enjoyed its field day with them. Blew them all over the board comparatively. I didn't bother buying a second box.
 
A long time ago (1993-ish) I tried using 155gr SMKs (when they first came out) in my NM M1A with a 1:10 barrel. They were a dismal failure for that application.

Most Palma shooters are using longer twist (13-14") to tweak the needed accuracy out of their rifles at long range.

I think you'll find that as you reduce weight, you need a longer twist to stabilize bullets for any real distance (>200yds). I do remember my dad talking about making short range practice loads for his 1903/1917 rifles with 125gr bullets and carbine powders, though.
 
If the stock is hollow and you don't mind the weight, lead weights and bedding compound can be added to the butt.

I'd try backing off on the 175 load a little or something like whatever hornady is offering now in place of the 155 amax. That and a somewhat faster for cartridge powder (maybe something like Benchmark) loaded to lower pressure should be accurate & less recoil.
 
I had good luck on targets and game with 150gr Hornady Interbonds/GMX (I believe it was-been a while.) and 150gr Barnes TTSX... Lightest rounds I've shot in my 308's. Go with a muzzle brake. Who cares if it's a little loud! Double up on hearing protection.
 
i use the sierra manual "accuracy load" for my four (4) .308s. i find recoil to be very manageable. start with a 168 g sierra matchking. then use various powders, because there are several ways to get there. i like 42 g of H4895 (reduce by .5 to 1.0 if using federal or lapua brass). 39.5-40 g imr 3031 also works. 4064 works. at the end of the day youll be between 2500-2600 fps at the muzzle, depending on barrel length, brass, etc. recoil is noticeably less than a full-house varget + 175 smk load.

whether it will get to 600 yds, i dunno, but it whomps out to 300 with no issues.
 
FWIW, my last load with the 168 SMK in my match M1A was 44.5 gr of surplus IMR 4895 that was a slow lot -- closer to 4064. Recoil wasn't bad and it worked to 600 yards.

I think I'd try a recoil pad before a muzzle brake. Much less expensive and won't bother adjacent shooters. There are slip-on varieties is you don't want to modify your stock.

Richard