Live Round Stuck in Chamber - Please Help

[Toast]

I know I'm retarded, so I'm open to criticism, especially if it educates others so the same doesn't happen to them.

I bought a new Accuracy Systems Inc. rifle chambered in 6.5 creedmoor based upon a DPMS style upper receiver. Receipt says, Upper Receiver - UMSS 6.5 Creed more. 22"x.936, 1x8.5 twist, . . ." (emphasis added). I took it out today for the first time to sight in. (Vortex PST optic.) I have a DPMS 6.5 creedmoor 5 round steel magazine. I was using new, Hornady 6.5 creedmoor 140 gr amax bullets. Stock number from Hornady was 81494.

Round #1: It would not feed. I inspected the bullet and case, and nothing appeared damaged. So I dropped it in the chamber and let the bolt go home. Everything felt fine, but when I pulled the trigger, nothing. Then I realized the bolt wasn't closed. I pulled the charging handle back, and it felt froze. It didn't take much effort, but the case pulled out without the bullet. The bullet was wedged in the chamber. I cleared it out, along with the spilt powder. I inspected with a bore light and everything was clear. (The bullet and case in the photograph is bullet #1. Its messed up because I tried to see if the case would chamber without the bullet. It did, but it was incredibly tight and it wouldn't eject it. The case just came back and dropped onto the magazine. The bullet tip is marred because I was using the bullet to release the magazine.)

Round #2: Again, it wouldn't feed, this time from a 10 round 308 pmag. This time, when the bolt went home, I noticed it wasn't all the way closed. I didn't try to fire it and instead tried to pull the round out. This time, nothing. Its stuck in there. Now, I got a live round stuck in the chamber. Its in a safe, but I still hate the idea of it being in there.

Any advice is appreciated. I live in San Diego, so if you know a good smith in SD, please let me know. Thanks, Toast

 

[jasonnorcal]

Did you try mortaring the rifle? Not something you want to be doing all the time but......

 

[Thumper580]

This may sound ugly but it will work. Large flat blade screwdriver, use a rag or similar item to protect the front of the ejection port. Use the screwdriver to catch the front of the bolt carrier and work it back and forth until the bolt carrier pops open (backward). Cushion the blade with the rag so as not to mar the front of the ejection port. I had the same problem with I accidentally tried to use brass shot in my 223 bolt gun in my AR15. The problem is the shoulder. Go slow and you can do it.

 

[WildBill3/75]

I'd take that upper back. Sounds like your jamming deep into the lands...like what was said I'd mortar it to get it out. The prs can take it.

 

[303_enfield]

Easy, mortar it. Take the optics off the upper. Take rifle someplace safe. If you have a collapsable stock, collapse it. Keeping the muzzle pointed safe, away from your face. While pulling the charging handle to the rear drive the buttstock into the ground, wood with cardboard over it or something hard. If that doesn't work take the upper off, yes you may have to remove the receiver extension. But I bet mortaring will work. Yes, it's not in the new TM. But it is in the old ones.

Edit, I type slow

 

[rideHPD]

Mortar that bitch. It sounds like you have a headspace issue if the brass is getting stuck on its own, I would try finding a set of 6.5CM gauges. I know Randy at RD Precision should have some, not sure if anyone in SD would, but I'll ask around for you.

 

[LRRPF52]

 

[sakobob]

when you get the live round out try another, this time use a 20 round mag
3rd times a charm.

 

[tipper]

Receipt says, Upper Receiver - UMSS 6.5 Creed more. 22"x.936, 1x8.5 twist" just maybe the receipt dose not match what the barrel is or the chamber, does the barrel have the size on it.

 

[elfster1234]

This.... What he said below.


Most likely headspace issue of the ammo or the rifle.

Easy, mortar it. Take the optics off the upper. Take rifle someplace safe. If you have a collapsable stock, collapse it. Keeping the muzzle pointed safe, away from your face. While pulling the charging handle to the rear drive the buttstock into the ground, wood with cardboard over it or something hard. If that doesn't work take the upper off, yes you may have to remove the receiver extension. But I bet mortaring will work. Yes, it's not in the new TM. But it is in the old ones.

Edit, I type slow

 

[Oryx]

when you get the live round out try another, this time use a 20 round mag
3rd times a charm.

You can try loading another if you want, but I would not do anything without having the chamber thoroughly cleaned and inspected. If you are unsure, just have a competent gunsmith check it out or contact the manufacturer for questions or return and inspection..

Trying the same thing over and over nd expecting a different result .....

 

[Copper75]

What do the markings on the barrel read ?

 

[303_enfield]

Fix her yet? Now, the big problem. You need to know if it's the barrel or ammo that is out of spec. The ammo is easy to check. The chamber would need a chamber cast. As the upper is new, call the manufacture and get a return label. They will do it on their dime. As a return is cheaper then a lawsuit and bad PR. Be nice and factual when you contact them. Do not send the upper on your dime!

My 2¢

 

[Strykervet]

I have a Grendel that will stick on the lands using light 100gr. Hornady AMAX bullets if loaded to their published COL (2012?). Due to lawsuits, component manufacturers seldom go back on what they publish, right or wrong.

Turns out this particular bullet has to be seated differently, deeper, despite the data due to the ogive. Note all other rounds work fine, they seat properly. It has to do with the ogive and leade and how close the COL will land you to the rifling. If it sticks in the rifling, it can be a bitch to remove since the bolt won't close and extractor won't engage. It can also pound it in tighter, so I try to refrain from forcing anything. It doesn't help.

To remove the round, I either used a plastic rod or a wooden rod, something that wouldn't damage the barrel, is slightly hard and fits tight, and I pounded it out gently using a rubber mallet from the muzzle. They generally aren't stuck that bad and that works well. It'll usually damage the bullet, but the case is usually fine. If it's stuck bad, you'll have to resort to other means.

Note some barrel makers make barrels with shorter leade for more accuracy, especially custom rifles using specific handloads. But this can cause problems if the COL is too long for that particular chamber. My milspec chambers don't have this problem, they work with anything. My Grendel is quite short though; the bullet, regardless of make, is generally close to the rifling. I get great accuracy, but I have to watch leade closely.

But if it does this with more than one type of ammo, especially factory ammo, or if this is a common ammo that should work, then I'd send it back. If it's a handload, try calling the bullet mfg. It's worth a try. An anomaly due to short leade is one thing, consistent stuck rounds regardless of COL is another.

Never send faulty stuff back on your dime. Even if they try to make you. Good luck.

 

[Toast]

Handguard is over the barrel, so I can't see markings. Its a Lilja barrel.

Update, I very gently mortared it and the case came right out. It only took the slightest "mortar" and it pulled the case right out. Bullet is stuck in there. I've already contacted Accuracy Systems. I'm sure they'll handle it. Thanks for the help guys. Love the post by Sakobob. Do they make 30 round pmags for a fourth try?

 

[samnev]

Easy, mortar it. Take the optics off the upper. Take rifle someplace safe. If you have a collapsable stock, collapse it. Keeping the muzzle pointed safe, away from your face. While pulling the charging handle to the rear drive the buttstock into the ground, wood with cardboard over it or something hard. If that doesn't work take the upper off, yes you may have to remove the receiver extension. But I bet mortaring will work. Yes, it's not in the new TM. But it is in the old ones.

Edit, I type slow

I have used this technique a number of times over the years and it works. Sometimes it requires more then one stroke. Just make sure you do it out doors in a safe place.