Gave my GAP .300 win Mag to a buddy to sight in for me with a new scope. He brought it back with a live round stuck in the tube and had tried to get it out but broke a cleaning rod trying. Took the rifle to a machinist friend who is a shooter and he tried a steel rod to tap the round out, was successful in pushing the bullet into the case but could not get it out. He did fill the case with oil to ruin the powder. I have sent the gun to a smith but my question is what do you guys think caused the round to get stuck in the first place? The rounds were custom loaded at a reputable custom round making company.
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Gunsmithing Live Round Stuck
- Thread starter augnmike
- Start date
Probably has to do with improper sizing as stated above. I had some rounds that someone loaded for my 260 converted from a 308. The shoulder and neck were not set back properly and it proceeded to wedge the round into the chamber. I luckily was able to get it out by my friend tapping it down with a wooden rod while I hammered on the charging handle. Needless to say, I only use 260 Rem brass in that gun now.
If the necks were not turned, then that was probably the issue The necks got wedged into the chamber.
For the OP, like everyone said, it was probably a case that was not re-sized correctly. Out of curiosity, why were you having someone else zero your rifle?
Do you know if he recalls if it was easy to close the bolt on that one round? To prevent what you had happen, I run all factory loaded ammo and all reloads through my wilson case gauge to make sure the rounds will fit. It only takes a couple of seconds to check every round
Last edited:
There are documented cases of the round discharging and killing someone because the bullet was driven back into the case with a cleaning rod. Don't do it.
The only safe way is to remove the barrel and get multiple screwdrivers under the rim and pry it out.
I even took a jewelers saw and cut the head off once to remove the powder.
The only safe way is to remove the barrel and get multiple screwdrivers under the rim and pry it out.
I even took a jewelers saw and cut the head off once to remove the powder.
Questions answered:
1. new gun (40 rounds prior to problem)
2. Had some one who was going to the range who wanted to shoot it and I could not go (hunting rifle)
3. Bolt would not close although it was hard to put the round home he didn't think it was that tight.
1. new gun (40 rounds prior to problem)
2. Had some one who was going to the range who wanted to shoot it and I could not go (hunting rifle)
3. Bolt would not close although it was hard to put the round home he didn't think it was that tight.
If the bolt has been opened (tearing off the rim), and the round discharges, the dangerous end is the BREECH end. The case head will shoot out the back versus the bullet flying out the muzzle.
This occurred at a local range. As I heard it, a guy could not close the bolt on the round, so he took a piece of wood and hammered the bolt closed. But not fully in battery, so round did no fire. Used piece of wood to hammer the bolt open, tearing the rim off the round. So got some help, they kept the muzzle downrange, and put a cleaning rod down the barrel and started hammering on it with the piece of wood. Round discharge, driving the case head into the shoulder of the person holding the rifle.
This occurred at a local range. As I heard it, a guy could not close the bolt on the round, so he took a piece of wood and hammered the bolt closed. But not fully in battery, so round did no fire. Used piece of wood to hammer the bolt open, tearing the rim off the round. So got some help, they kept the muzzle downrange, and put a cleaning rod down the barrel and started hammering on it with the piece of wood. Round discharge, driving the case head into the shoulder of the person holding the rifle.
Ouch. So if this happens what would be the recommended way to extract it? I know on our machine guns we just remove the barrel and carefully pry the round out without shoving the projectile in. Though I actually had an M249 that was shoving the projectiles back into the case. The extracted just fine so I chambered them in a stock rifle and shot them off. The bad ones are when the bolt extracts half of a case. Then we have a second round with two shoulders that won't go fully interest battery and a 20 minute cussing fest with an extractor tool. Kind of hard to compare a bolt action with an automatic rifle, but it's the same principle I'd think.
Well it all depends on many factors:
Badly sized bullet
Incorrectly headspace
Incorrectly reamed
Some sort of large debris is between the case and chamber wall
or a combination of all these plus a few other factors.
In this case if the round is fully stuck in the barrel removing the barrel is the best way to render it safe. Then on the muzzle end spray in a liberal amount of WD-40 or PB Blaster into the barrel with muzzle end supported up and let it sit for a few hours. You then heat up the area with a hair dryer on hot to help wick extra oil through until it is hot to the touch. Then with a pair of needle nose pliers pull it out and twist it back and forth then it should come out with some effort.
The professional way of doing it is doing the first step then using a special attachment for the muzzle end that seals it air tight with a hole for compressed air or hydraulic fluid. Then they are pumped in under pressure until the round pops out into a box with some sort of cushioning material.
Badly sized bullet
Incorrectly headspace
Incorrectly reamed
Some sort of large debris is between the case and chamber wall
or a combination of all these plus a few other factors.
In this case if the round is fully stuck in the barrel removing the barrel is the best way to render it safe. Then on the muzzle end spray in a liberal amount of WD-40 or PB Blaster into the barrel with muzzle end supported up and let it sit for a few hours. You then heat up the area with a hair dryer on hot to help wick extra oil through until it is hot to the touch. Then with a pair of needle nose pliers pull it out and twist it back and forth then it should come out with some effort.
The professional way of doing it is doing the first step then using a special attachment for the muzzle end that seals it air tight with a hole for compressed air or hydraulic fluid. Then they are pumped in under pressure until the round pops out into a box with some sort of cushioning material.
I have to say the pneumatic/hydraulic method is my favorite. It seems a tad redneck, bit that's probably why I like it. So otherwise you're trying to neutralize the powder before pulling ( not forcing) the round out, correct?
Not sure why letting a friend take my rifle out is a problem. I own over twenty nice rifles and wanted to have him get this one somewhat sighted in for me that doesn't mean I wouldn't be shooting it before I hunted it. I didn't go into detail on him taking the rifle out for me since the point of the post was to see if there were some ideas on what might have gone wrong. If I had been on a second shot on an elk this season and got that round that is stuck I'm sure I would have put it home with significant force and been in the same boat.
Needless to say I will be checking the sizing on all the other rounds I have before using them.
Needless to say I will be checking the sizing on all the other rounds I have before using them.
Last edited:
I watched a guy I used to work with pop one. 22-250 on a Sako. Not sure if the bullet got pushed clear of the neck because the WD-40 flood didn't kill the powder. Put an interesting crease in the cheekpiece;-)
The high pressure method is what most professional gunsmiths use (including myself) for a safe way as well as a way to prevent damaging the chamber or rifling ( it is ALWAYS done with the barrel removed). The chance of igniting a round while pushing it out under pressure is next to zero ...... as opposed to banging on it with a metal rod while the barrel is still in the rifle. 
Remember it could not be a round or barrel problem....... I have seen MANY times when a brass shaving or a large enough grit of sand gets between the case and chamber wall and getting a case extremely stuck.
Remember it could not be a round or barrel problem....... I have seen MANY times when a brass shaving or a large enough grit of sand gets between the case and chamber wall and getting a case extremely stuck.
Last edited:
this may sound like a stupid question...but how does having someone else sight in your weapon for you work. after 50 years of doing it myself I might've been wasting my time
Ok I had shot it with a different scope on it for about two or three boxes of ammo. I swapped scopes thinking I might try something different but was unable to get to the range for some time so when a friend was going to go shooting he said he would like to shoot the rifle and I sent it with him figuring the new scope (new to this rifle) would at least be on paper when I could get out before hunting season to shoot it myself. Obviously I didn't know this would be a sniper's hide felony and I have learned my lesson to never, ever, ever do that again. I do not shoot at ranges for fun I only shoot to hunt or sight in each season.
When your smith gets the round removed, the case will tell you all you need to know.
Please post pics and such when this is resolved.
My vote: Rounds did not use new brass. A good 300WM chamber has all the SAAMI slop removed but will still chamber and shoot anything from WalMart. ALL .300WM ammo is way, way, like way undersize compared to the factory SAAMI chambers. My experience looking at dimensional prints is that the .300WM is the worst offender in this aspect. Standard .300WM dies will not size the case head immediately above the belt back to factory brass spec. Any brass shot even once in a factory chamber will be oversize in that area.
No clue what chamber is in your GAP, but if it is similar to 300WM chambers I cut, it will require new brass or brass sized in a SB die. So....... I'm betting you will see a very shiny rub mark just above the belt and extending the full circumference of the case.
Let us know.
PS: I would be really upset having a rod, especially a steel one bowing and slapping my rifling every time it was hammered trying to get the round out. Ditto for your crown. After that, I would be a suspicious bastard if any issues with fouling or accuracy pop up.
^ ^ ^ ^
This.
I even made a couple of shoe horn looking scoops with radiused claw for this crap.
Read Dave's posts.
Take Dave's advise.
also,
Don't run with scissors
Drink your milk and don't fart in church.
Ok thanks guys I will let you know what the smith says. One guy told me that the smith might just run a .300 wm reamer through it to get the round out but that info is way above my pay grade to know if that is a legit solution. I would assume that if that was done it would ruin any evidence on the brass.
Good, relevant reading.
Several endorsements of the freeze/heat method.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/sniper-hide-gunsmithing/106518-how-remove-stuck-round.html
Several endorsements of the freeze/heat method.
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/sniper-hide-gunsmithing/106518-how-remove-stuck-round.html
Was this brass fired from this chamber originally?
IF brass was not fired from this chamber originally, did you let custom ammunition manufacturer know this?
Was all 300 WM brass sent to custom ammunition manufacturer from one rifle or mix of chambers?
IF brass was from a mix of chambers, was brass segregated by rifle fired from so brass could be measured and properly processed to ensure proper fit to respective chambers?
Did you supply brass to custom ammo manufacturer or was brass supplied by the custom ammo manufacturer?
Best guesstimate is that just above belt, the case was too large in diameter and sizer die used was unable to size down enough to fit chamber. Small base die may have helped or might require a Willis collet die to squeeze down enough to fit chamber.
Case gauge might help but might not, rifles chamber has "final" say on fit. Really going to depend on how tight gauge is cut vs how tight chamber is cut. If brass used for ammo was not fired from this rifle originally, then I'd pull firing pin assy and chamber check ammo in rifle chamber. Any round that offered any appreciable resistance before bolt going fully into battery, pull and set aside to be pulled apart or used in different chamber.
I never said i would not let anyone shoot my firearm. You can shoot my firearms while i am present but i would never let anyone take my firearms to a range or hunting or whatever with out me being there. You're friend should have called you and said that he got a round stuck in the chamber and he should have returned it to you before he " broke his cleaning rod in you're barrel ".
It was new brass is what I was told by the custom guy, he recommended that I gently check each of the remaining rounds in the chamber to make sure but he believes that the stuck round was not sized which could have accounted for the problem. He has offered to pay for the repair.
A customer brought a 308 in few weeks ago with a stuck live round. Pulled the barrel, and tried prying on the rim with a screwdriver. No joy. Tried some other things that didn't work either. Stuck the barrel in the freezer for 5 hours. Pulled it out, held it in a vise, pryed on the rim and it popped right out with literally no effort.
I believe that the word of reputable professionals is worth taking.
How things got to be the way they are is irrelevant; concentrate on the solution.
Greg
Last edited:
OP, when you speak again with your smith, ask him to chamber a short stub of barrel for you with the same reamer, face off the ends. Makes a great gauge for checking rounds, before sticking them in. Cheap, and effective.
Similar threads
Gunsmithing
Cleaning rod stuck !
