LMT .308 MWS

Re: LMT .308 MWS

I was on the phone a while back with the LMT cust. rep. about another matter, and just asked why the change on the markings. His reply was that their overseas customers preferred the 7.62 denotation. He did not indicate that there had been any modification in the rifles.
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

And they want to keep that market happy I'm sure.

Just curious about something I never thought about.

I typically use Hoppes when cleaning my guns. Think I used it on my chromelined M16 during that part of my life. I know that Hoppes does not recommend its use on nickle and chrome plated guns.

Is barrel chrome lining a different animal? Anyone using Hoppes on a 16 inch CL and had ill effects? I usually soak my steel barrels for extended periods of time when I do clean with Hoppes - 3 overnights is typical to have the rifle cradled on the bench.
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

A barrel that is marked 7.62x52 nato can shoot both .308 commercial and 7.62x51 nato rounds. I've called LMT on this very issue and the guy I talked to said they would "prefer" that you stick with 7.62x51 nato, but it can & will shoot .308....... I even owned a DPMS oracle 7.62x51 at one time and called DPMS with the same question and they said it was totally fine to shoot .308 commercial out of it and actually perferred you shoot .308 commercial...... Many other companies like DPMS have switched over to this as it allows the headspace for both 7.62x51 and .308 commercial. The difference is CRAZY SMALL!! Someone can correct me if I'm wrong.

762vs308.jpg



The most recent LMT will be marked 7.62x51 on the side of the receiver and will have a more "rounded" brass deflector.

One thing I've noticed in my LMT is that reloading 7.62x51 nato brass shot out of my LMT sizes MUCH BETTER and will fit my wilson case guage once resized,,,, where some of my .308 commercial will not (even tho the .308 commercial sized brass will still fit my LMT's chamber and is totally fine to shoot). I'm sure this has something to do with the thicker brass, but you need to take this in account when dropping your powder loads.

I have a website where I will buy cheap 7.62x51 american eagle BTHP 168grn ammo for $16 bucks per 20rounds shipped to my front door (actually shoots nice for factory ammo),,,, just so I have some cheap ammo to burn AND to re-use the brass for reloading as it performs much much better in my LMT MWS.... I've reloaded and shot both .308 brass & 7.62x51 nato brass out of my LMT with no problems. I just think the "thicker brass" of the nato round really helps in a semi auto as the brass is being ejected under pressure and can take a better beating!!! Those semi auto's are tough on the brass!!!

There is nothing wrong with shooting .308 commercial out of a 7.62x51 barrel. The cartridge is the same, it is the chamber of your barrel that is different. That is it.....


Elfster1234
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Santo</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: elfster1234</div><div class="ubbcode-body">do you think it might have something to do with the fact you don't have a 1pc scope mount? was just wondering if that might make a difference? just and idea.


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Griffin Armament</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I took my LMT MWS out for the second trip (this time with M118LR ammo). The Chrono said 8FPS SD 22FPS ES 2465FPS AVG.

I still had problems grouping the gun, with first groups in the 1.75MOA range. Bench rested bipod and sandsock and shooting the rifle with minimal input like shooting a .22lr bolt gun. I got the gun down to around 1.2MOA when I gripped the rifle like a pistol, pulled it in like a shotgun and really worked at it, and I left the range feeling unimpressed and wanting to further trouble shoot it.

The 7/8" circle targets I plan to replace with squares so I can hold a corner rather than trying to di-sect a circle slightly larger than the reticle width.

I got back to the shop and realized the bi-pod had shot loose. I decided to move that 2" forward and also tighten it down hard.

I removed the flash suppressor which has a small aperture near the muzzle and tested the barrel thread for concentricity in relation to the bore. It was .002-.003" out. So I decided to swap it for a brake in hopes of mitigating as much as possible the potential effects of eccentric aperture and high pressure gas on bullet flight.

I switched the nice looking MIAD std rear grip plastic for the big honking anatomically correct rear plastic.

I experienced failure of the trigger to reset twice (requiring me to push the trigger forward) probably on account of the OEM hammer spring and disconnector spring, so I swapped in the JP disconnector spring which also reduces the load for the trigger spring and that solved that problem trigger reset was notably more positive.

I decided to drill and tap the receiver for an overtravel screw in an effort to save the $200 on an upgrade trigger group. That was a significant improvement in dry firing- the sights do not move when the trigger breaks.

I also tightened up some rotational play in the stock with clear tape on the buffer tube, and ordered a .093" thick sheet of adhesive backed, A-scale 30 durometer neoprene from McMaster Carr to help with stock weld. The charging handle has ~.12" of clearance space over the stock so this should be compatible in all positions.

I'm hoping to get back to the range Thursday and see the rifle shoot better. Under 1MOA all the time is acceptable accuracy IMO with M118LR. Anything over 1MOA doesn't make sense with a 16" relatively heavy barrel and match ammo.

533054_10151352615634569_1555837087_n.jpg


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</div></div> </div></div>

My LMT also had lousy groups, 3+" 5 shot groups @ 100 yards out of the box with 168 gr SMK's until I took the barrel out inspected and retorqued it. Still doesn't shoot groups as well as my DPMS SASS. I am not very impressed with LMT's QC. The rifle also had a half dozen nicks in the finish. I think LMT has gotten to complacent lately. My older LMT 5.56 QCB was pefect out of the box a very accurate. </div></div>

I have this exact gun and just had this exact issue. The 175's do not stabilize within the first 300m out of these 16" barrels. They are, however, moa or better at 400+. Have someone else shoot the 175s at range and observe the trace to confirm. Mine was 1.5+ with an active sf operator behind the trigger at 100, but I could ring 6" steel at 700+ consistently.
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

Today was supposed to be the day i picked up my LMT MWS from my FFL . I was soo excited, got there checked it was all ready to take her home and l got the dreaded Delayed =(. l was like but but why please call them back . looks like i get to wait a few more days for her !!
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

I take delivery of my MWS next week.... I have an OBR to compare it too and I'll give an honest overview of the two setups. I plan on getting a 6.5 creedmore barrel spun up for it down the road. just curious how they headspace/time the bcg to the new barrel? Or is it a straight drop in kit?

thanks for any advice rendered.

Kinnamon
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

The price is 559.00 you can go to Kentucky Gun Co and type in LMT and look down the page it shows it is in stock also. l'll tell you what LMT has other ones up now also .243 .338 7mm ect. looks like they are rolling them out now. l think they had a .260 also if i remember right
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

Got the barrel back from 300 below Cryo/heat treatment.

I shot the same style of target, the same ammunition the same muzzle device, at the same bench on the same range today. 23 rounds on left target in ~15 minutes, 20 rounds on the right target in ~10 minutes. The only swapped part were new Griffin Armament E-Tac High Scope rings. I think it's safe to say scope rings aren't the cause of improved accuracy. The gun shot a lot more like an M110. It's still not an M110, but it's probably really close if not on par. The last time I shot an M110 I put 5 rounds into 1.2MOA at 200 yards(picture at bottom).


216884_10151416672014569_805212316_n.jpg

Before 300 Below Cryo on left (LMT 16" CL .308 MWS) Accuracy improved 42.5-50% after cryo. I shot groups counter clockwise from center chest to head. On the first target there was a windage correction from the center chest so it's POA is indicated by a black dot on the target back figured from windage input. As you can see the right side of the second silouette is .8, .78, .76MOA. The head group was .425MOA with two and the range safety called a cease fire and I quit because it wouldn't make sense to throw a third round after 10 minutes of barrel cooling and call that a "group".
296806_10151416672159569_2144617495_n.jpg

Below shows the composite of group centers for before and after Cryo.
523252_10151416672279569_1858643490_n.jpg



The last M110 group I fired at 200 yards with M852Match ammo.
m110range006.jpg


<span style="font-weight: bold">It's safe to say shooting M118LR through this weapon is no longer akin to throwing it away or lighting it on fire.

Shooting this rifle was depressing prior to 300 below cryo treatment. I would recommend Cryo to anyone WITH accuracy problems such as unacceptable group dispersion, or wandering zero during heating, or both combined. </span>
 
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Re: LMT .308 MWS

Nice write up Griffin... I take ownership of my Lmt next week. It has some big shoes to fill (as I already own an OBR) but I really purchased this product for its flexibility (i.e 16" .308 for hunting and hopefully a 6.5 creedmore for banging steel). I'll be satisfied if I can ring out moa groups... otherwise I switch things up and put a T1 up top and turn her into a battle rifle. I'll post my comparison groups when I make it out to the range.
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: K_4c</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Nice write up Griffin... I take ownership of my Lmt next week. It has some big shoes to fill (as I already own an OBR) but I really purchased this product for its flexibility (i.e 16" .308 for hunting and hopefully a 6.5 creedmore for banging steel). I'll be satisfied if I can ring out moa groups... otherwise I switch things up and put a T1 up top and turn her into a battle rifle. I'll post my comparison groups when I make it out to the range. </div></div>

Man, I'm interested in what you think about the LMT. You've got a OBR and have plenty of time on it, you'll be a good judge comparing the two. They are both pretty heavy, I'm wondering which one is more accurate for you. I've got just a 16" CL MWS, shoots < 1". I know your OBR is pretty tight shooting.

Let us know what happens.
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Conrad101st</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's nice. Especially considering you can just pull and ship the barrel. How much was the cryogenic treatment. Mine shoots good already but may do it anyway. :) </div></div>

I paid the regular $109 regardless of the fact that I am an FFL/SOT dealer- I didn't want to risk asking for a discount and finding the work shortcutted (probably my own personal paranoia). The service is refundable if you aren't satisfied.

Sometimes stress in the barrel can actually improve the way it shoots for a small number of rounds before it warms up. In those cases the cryo stress relief could actually harm accuracy (but probably not consistency). A good example is an M14 I was issued in the military that would keyhole the first two rounds and then groups would open up to 1.5MOA and then after 10 rounds to 3MOA. (That stress could be good)<at least the first 2 rounds are going where I wanted them. I would reserve this for barrels that have problems that render them more or less useless.

If you are like me, and zero parallax and then shoot 7 groups in 10-15 minutes and find that your POI shifted several times by a considerable amount, or have a barrel that shoots poorly, or both, then you probably have a barrel that will respond favorably to cryo/heat treat. A lot of people cite the "metalurgists" who claim that only 6% of stress can be removed with cryo, but 300 below also goes to +300F, and whatever they do does work to relieve stress.

In my case the barrel was so bad it was already junk. So with nothing to lose, Cryo saved my butt big time.

This is my second cryoed barrel- the first was almost a decade ago- a M70 .300 win mag that grouped about 1.5MOA. After cryo, bedding and lapping that one shot 3/8MOA regularly.

 
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Re: LMT .308 MWS

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: K_4c</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Nice write up Griffin... I take ownership of my Lmt next week. It has some big shoes to fill (as I already own an OBR) but I really purchased this product for its flexibility (i.e 16" .308 for hunting and hopefully a 6.5 creedmore for banging steel). I'll be satisfied if I can ring out moa groups... otherwise I switch things up and put a T1 up top and turn her into a battle rifle. I'll post my comparison groups when I make it out to the range. </div></div>

If you want MOA groups I would reccommend a JP yellow trigger spring, a JP disconnector spring, and a DPMS hammer spring (these are slightly bent, but normal wire diameter). Like this :

2hd1kqb.jpg


Then an 8x32 screw for overtravel as pictured above. This is the cheapest trigger job that will get you a shootable gun.

Either that or an upgrade trigger. Wrestling the OEM would absolutely suck.

In either case, snug the gun up before firing. Because of the lack of complete trigger pedigree, these really shoot better when you lock them down good prior to breaking the shot.
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

This is some damn good info griffin.. Good job.


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Griffin Armament</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: K_4c</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Nice write up Griffin... I take ownership of my Lmt next week. It has some big shoes to fill (as I already own an OBR) but I really purchased this product for its flexibility (i.e 16" .308 for hunting and hopefully a 6.5 creedmore for banging steel). I'll be satisfied if I can ring out moa groups... otherwise I switch things up and put a T1 up top and turn her into a battle rifle. I'll post my comparison groups when I make it out to the range. </div></div>

If you want MOA groups I would reccommend a JP yellow trigger spring, a JP disconnector spring, and a DPMS hammer spring (these are slightly bent, but normal wire diameter). Like this :

2hd1kqb.jpg


Then an 8x32 screw for overtravel as pictured above. This is the cheapest trigger job that will get you a shootable gun.

Either that or an upgrade trigger. Wrestling the OEM would absolutely suck.

In either case, snug the gun up before firing. Because of the lack of complete trigger pedigree, these really shoot better when you lock them down good prior to breaking the shot. </div></div>
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

if you are talking about the slick receiver LMT 308, then about 2700 to 2900 for a chrome lined 16" barrel.... i see they have one on gunbroker right now for 2899.99 but I think that is a bit on the high side,,,,,, but damn it is one sexy friggen rifle: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=305305164


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LarryA</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey guys, whats the going rate on a LMT LM8 in 308, and has anyone picked one up yet?

Thanks
LarryA </div></div>
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: judgedelta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm looking at Griffin's picture above and don't see: "an 8X32 screw for overtravel as pictured above."? Would Griffin (or someone) please explain. Thanks... </div></div>

It was pictured earlier in the thread. A lot of people wouldn't want to drill and tap a hole, but I got my gun for $1800 and didn't want to put a $200 trigger group into it. I typically re-invest nearly all my money into my business.

I had the tap and drill at my shop so the overtravel stop cost me something like 20-40 cents and my time. I believe an 1/8" screw was the correct length. I used loctite of course, loosened it till the gun fired, and then another maybe 25 degrees of one revolution. You have to ensure there is adequate disconnector engagement (maybe .050") when you are done, so really there is no way to get all of the overtravel out safely, but you can get rid of most of it and that helps to reduce movement of the gun after the trigger breaks. It was a major improvement, because really, without dropping the trigger weight to ounces, you need an overtravel stop to shoot well.

I eyeballed it from above the lower (without removing the trigger guard) and placed a punch and had my brother hit it to create a dent to drill. Then I drilled it with a hand drill and hand tapped it. It was easier than setting it up in a mill. The 7075 aluminum drilled like butter. No problem.

Initially I kept the LMT disconnector spring but found I had a few issues with the trigger failing to reset. I went to the JP disconnector spring and that stopped- probably because it is lighter to account for the trigger spring with less strength to overcome its force. So again it's JP yellow trigger, JP disconnector spring, DPMS standard hammer spring, and 8x32 screw that constitutes the cheap bastard trigger job. My pull weight is about 2.8lbs. I can snap it in about .3MOA now with the gun snugged up tight, and I think if I got prone it might get marginally better.

533054_10151352615634569_1555837087_n.jpg
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

man, i really like the look of those slick receiver LMT's!! so nice looking! Nice stick!

Mind me asking how much you got the base rifle for?


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GOP1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
c7560896.jpg

LM8 MWS 16" CL
</div></div>
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: K_4c</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Anybody had any issues running the MWS suppressed?

supersonic (overgassed)or sub (I know subsonic prolly won't cycle). </div></div>

Accurate as hell w/175 SMK's subsonic. Doesn't even think about cycling. It is real quiet but not as much as a bolt or shut-offable gas blockeeatiato semiauto.

Blown primers supersonic. I tend to push my shit hard though. I've only got a 16" and I'm trying to pretend that it's a 26" bolt action .260 or some other laser gun. I have had (2) stuck cases to date but I don't like cleaning my gun(s). I attribute the stuck case to a dingy chamber.

I'm having a .260 barrel cut for my LMT. I will <span style="text-decoration: underline">never</span> suppress it however. It will be a comp gun.

I'm kind of getting away from suppressing my gas guns with the exception of my 300BLK. IMHO while cool in the immediate, it causes frustration down the line especially if you don't keep them clean. I do have a shooting partner, or two +, that claim blastfimy but oh well. + I'm not a SFC, or trying to be.

I can not say with absolute certainty but I do think brass life is decreased. I just have not taken the time to scientifically prove this theory.

Powder I have used w/ LMT 16" .308:
TrailBoss (Sub)
Varget-Only pressure tested
RamShot Tac-Too fast, Blown primers.
2000MR-1.25 MOA w/175 SMK, OK on brass, I want to do some more work with this powder. It may have potential.
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pete Sake</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: K_4c</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Anybody had any issues running the MWS suppressed?

supersonic (overgassed)or sub (I know subsonic prolly won't cycle). </div></div>

Accurate as hell w/175 SMK's subsonic. Doesn't even think about cycling. It is real quiet but not as much as a bolt or shut-offable gas blockeeatiato semiauto.

Blown primers supersonic. I tend to push my shit hard though. I've only got a 16" and I'm trying to pretend that it's a 26" bolt action .260 or some other laser gun. I have had (2) stuck cases to date but I don't like cleaning my gun(s). I attribute the stuck case to a dingy chamber.

I'm having a .260 barrel cut for my LMT. I will <span style="text-decoration: underline">never</span> suppress it however. It will be a comp gun.

I'm kind of getting away from suppressing my gas guns with the exception of my 300BLK. IMHO while cool in the immediate, it causes frustration down the line especially if you don't keep them clean. I do have a shooting partner, or two +, that claim blastfimy but oh well. + I'm not a SFC, or trying to be.

I can not say with absolute certainty but I do think brass life is decreased. I just have not taken the time to scientifically prove this theory.

Powder I have used w/ LMT 16" .308:
TrailBoss (Sub)
Varget-Only pressure tested
RamShot Tac-Too fast, Blown primers.
2000MR-1.25 MOA w/175 SMK, OK on brass, I want to do some more work with this powder. It may have potential. </div></div>

My OBR loves 10.5 of trailboss with 180 RN's... so I'll start with that load. As far as supersonic loads go...43.5 of varget, Lupua brass,cci 200 primer and 175 SMK's to top it off (standard load for my OBR as well). It'd be great if both guns shot the same load, but I have a feeling that won't be the case. I have plans of purchasing a 6.5 creedmore barrel after hunting season. I may give GAP or SAC a call about putting an adjustable gas block on the said barrel.... I prefer to tailor my rounds to my guns needs but they must be reliable (hence the flexibility of an adjustable gas block).

thanks for the feedback sir
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: K_4c</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Anybody had any issues running the MWS suppressed?

supersonic (overgassed)or sub (I know subsonic prolly won't cycle). </div></div>

I'm planning on running an RSTA on mine. The cans still need to be finished through machining, but my gun is running a 7.1 ounce MGI carbine buffer and that is running 100% so apparently it isn't too heavy because it cycles and the bolt locks normally.

The previous owner had an AAC can and the OEM 5.3ounce buffer, and the AAC 7.62 cans have a much smaller blast chamber so the overpressure is worse, and he said he would get pressure signs on brass and had to back off a grain and a half or two of powder for suppressed loads.
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

So I went to the range over the weekend to test out different ammo. I had American Eagle 150, FGMM 308 175 and 168 and the FGMM 7.62x51 175. They all shot incredible but what got me was I had my scope zeroed for the American Eagle 150g and all the other ammo had the same POA/ POI. No matter what kind of ammo I put in there it shot the same exact spot.

Ive never had this happen with any other gun. Usually it's off by an inch or two or maybe shoots to the left but defiantly different. Dont get me wrong this is awesome because I know that no matter what ammo I use it will be damn near zeroed.

What's your guys experience?
 
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Re: LMT .308 MWS

I GOT IT !!!!!! I was able to pick up my LMT MWS today . l procedded to go see my smith and have him install the Battlecomp BA on it and my Slash's heavy buffer and spring and UBR. looking to get some glass on it ASAP so i can have some fun. looks like it is iron sight training for a bit now.
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

That is awesome oldguardshooter. Bet you are itching to get a day off now. Better post some pics once you get some glass on that bad boy. Figure out which scope yet?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: OldGuardShooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I GOT IT !!!!!! I was able to pick up my LMT MWS today . l procedded to go see my smith and have him install the Battlecomp BA on it and my Slash's heavy buffer and spring and UBR. looking to get some glass on it ASAP so i can have some fun. looks like it is iron sight training for a bit now. </div></div>
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

I got it narrowed down to a Leopold Mark 6 3-18 with a Micro T-1 off set or just a Mark 6 1-6 , or the Vortex Razor HD 1-6 . either way they are going in a GDI mount . I want to get a Ges trigger also just not sure if i want a SSA-E or the flat blade version of it. I wish l liked the Razor's ret a little bit more. What i might end up doing is buying a temp scope to hold me over something in the 400 to 500 price range to use while i save up for the nicer scope so i can practice irons and a little bit with glass. That way when i go to sale the scope l might loose 50 bucks maybe 75.
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

Got the JP spring kit; watched video on U-tube; took off upper; removed hammer pin and hammer; removed trigger pin; effin' trigger won't come out; called LMT was advised as to how to remove grip and detent screws, springs and pins to get the safety selector out.

Just in case anyone else out there is as ignorant as I am...

The trigger slot on regular ARs must be longer than on MWS.
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

When I got the grip off, I noticed a small piece of rubber, about 3/8 x 3/8, with a small hole in it, lying on the bench. I had no idea where it came from, (couldn't find it in the diagram from LMT), but I stuck it between the grip and the trigger guard since there was space there and it fit. Rifle works all right, so I guess it isn't critical.
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

hell yeah oldguard,,, nice set up! looking good!


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: OldGuardShooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Here is my LMT MWS i have done a few upgrades so for. still need to do the Trigger and scope , Kac micro flip ups and mount.

http://i49.tinypic.com/28w2k3r.jpg[/img]]LMT </div></div>
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

+1

Congrats OldGuard! Lookin forward to seeing how she shoots!

Do you know what scope and trigger you're gonna put on it?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: elfster1234</div><div class="ubbcode-body">hell yeah oldguard,,, nice set up! looking good!


<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: OldGuardShooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Here is my LMT MWS i have done a few upgrades so for. still need to do the Trigger and scope , Kac micro flip ups and mount.

http://i49.tinypic.com/28w2k3r.jpg[/img]]LMT </div></div></div></div>
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

I've had my LMT for a little while now, here are a couple of thoughts.

Paid less than $2500 otd. Solid value, no shit.

Shoots 1". 16" CL barrel, barrel swap feature is a plus. Very easy to remove/install barrel, throw away the POS torque wrench that comes with it.

Factory irons are clunky meh. It's going to cost you $200 to fix that.

Factory trigger is o.k., I'm going to try a Giessele, that's almost $300.

SOPMOD is prom queen tight, if your optic isn't too tall, probably get away without a PRS or similar.

So for around $3000, tight shooting rifle, feels compact, barrel swap feature, I'm keeping mine.

Heavy rifle, no way around it. That's my only bitch.
 
Re: LMT .308 MWS

Let me know how you like the trigger. I can't decide if I want to get the SSA-E or SD-E.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: OldGuardShooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Thanks guys,

I am going to put a Leopold Mark 6 1-6 on it and a Geissele SSA-E trigger on it . </div></div>