LMT 6.5 Creedmoor Expectations

[GUNNER10]

got ya.

Ok, in regards to the full auto thing, off the top of my head there are two possibility's

Mechanical or fundamentals. There is a chance that there is an issues with the disconetctor/sear that comes into play with the increase bolt velocity when suppressed. There is also the chance the poor technique and the SSA's reset, combined with the higher recoil may be causing you to essentially bump fire.

I've been shooting large frame AR's for a while and, I can see how poor technique/position and a moderate back pressure can on an MWS could cause doubling/bump fire.

Snipershide has some good online training to help you tecnique if that seems to be the issue at play here

 

[Voyager1]

If I were a bettin man he has a timney in that lower that hasn’t been properly tensioned. Am I right!?

If not man you need to call lmt.

Geissele SSA-E

 

[Voyager1]

got ya.

Ok, in regards to the full auto thing, off the top of my head there are two possibility's

Mechanical or fundamentals. There is a chance that there is an issues with the disconetctor/sear that comes into play with the increase bolt velocity when suppressed. There is also the chance the poor technique and the SSA's reset, combined with the higher recoil may be causing you to essentially bump fire.

I've been shooting large frame AR's for a while and, I can see how poor technique/position and a moderate back pressure can on an MWS could cause doubling/bump fire.

Snipershide has some good online training to help you tecnique if that seems to be the issue at play here

What is happening is that when USING A MONOPOD on the rear pic rail, combined with an atlas bipod on the front, enabled me the gently hold the rifle with very little force.....SUBSEQUENTLY WITH MY FOCUS COMPLETELY ON GENTLY SQUEEZING THE TRIGGER....BRRRRRRRP OMG ? I just scared the crap out of myself!
thank you all for your Suggestions!

 

[Voyager1]

got ya.

Ok, in regards to the full auto thing, off the top of my head there are two possibility's

Mechanical or fundamentals. There is a chance that there is an issues with the disconetctor/sear that comes into play with the increase bolt velocity when suppressed. There is also the chance the poor technique and the SSA's reset, combined with the higher recoil may be causing you to essentially bump fire.

I've been shooting large frame AR's for a while and, I can see how poor technique/position and a moderate back pressure can on an MWS could cause doubling/bump fire.

Snipershide has some good online training to help you tecnique if that seems to be the issue at play here

I think GUNNER10 you may have nailed it....It’s probably bump firing by using the monopod on the pic rail at the base of the LMT match stock; I suspect that given my propensity to gently hold and pull the trigger with a monopod stabilizing the rifle in the rear, thAt it my be causing full auto bursts of fire....I can handle it if I’m expecting it. With the rifle having a full length can with probably max back pressure (rugged surge) , I can understand how that might cause it to bounce off of my shoulder...I wouldn’t care if it was federal M 80 ball but when you’re shooting 175 grain Federal gold medal match it gets kind of expensive LOL. Thank you all for your incredible insight I appreciate it so graciously.

 

[GUNNER10]

No worries. Maybe pick up a nice shooting wedge for the rear and work on building up a good shooting position so that you can just settle down behind ride the recoil impulse.

 

[Voyager1]

No worries. Maybe pick up a nice shooting wedge for the rear and work on building up a good shooting position so that you can just settle down behind ride the recoil impulse.

No worries. Maybe pick up a nice shooting wedge for the rear and work on building up a good shooting position so that you can just settle down behind ride the recoil impulse.

Great! Any preference on use of a bipod (anteriorly ) versus a shooting bench versus a just built up shooting table....

 

[GUNNER10]

honestly it really whats comfortable to you, and where you are shooting from. There are way more qualified people on this site to go into the weeds of running a large frame gas gun efficiently.

I know that I am pretty comfortable with large frame AR's and if All things being equal, and I wanted to get the most accuracy or consistency out of one of my gas guns, I would prefer to get into the prone, with rear bag and shoot off a bipod.

if i am shooting steel or maybe some weird positions, a good tripod can go a long way

I would check out the training section here, or maybe see if there are some local classes that you could sign up. There are alot of good resources out there

 

[Voyager1]

honestly it really whats comfortable to you, and where you are shooting from. There are way more qualified people on this site to go into the weeds of running a large frame gas gun efficiently.

I know that I am pretty comfortable with large frame AR's and if All things being equal, and I wanted to get the most accuracy or consistency out of one of my gas guns, I would prefer to get into the prone, with rear bag and shoot off a bipod.

if i am shooting steel or maybe some weird positions, a good tripod can go a long way

I would check out the training section here, or maybe see if there are some local classes that you could sign up. There are alot of good resources out there

Thank you for the valuable insights

 

[larryh128]

Use rubber bumpers like the ones for glass that fixes the dents and bent case mouths from the deflector.

If you want to adjust the gas use an adjustable gas key as I have done on mine.

https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2015/01/28/sun-devil-mfg-adjustable-gas-key/

https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/lmt-mws-suppressed-over-gassed-fix-part-2.6254224/

Thanks for posting the Sun Devil!! Really looks like an easier fix than the adj blocks I use and sometimes have a hard time accessing.