LMT MRP-L

they just take too damn long! I've got one barrel there a month! I'd go Adco to be honest, turnaround is faster and they have a stellar reputation to boot

so does Dwilson for the record

20 days from the time it left my house to the day it came back on my last barrel just a few months ago, not sure how that’s too long?
 
Well, beside me and my barrel not doing well today, there was obvious shifting from different positions at 100y.

Top left: probe with bipod and rear bag
Top right: tripod standing off bag
Bottom left: tripod kneeling off bag
Bottom right: prone sling support

IMG_2544.jpeg


And yeah, I need more tripod/standing work I know. This BRT barrel today was 1.5-2 moa, which was not very good. On a good day it’ll do 1.2-1.5. Perhaps I’m asking to much from a hammer forged, chrome lined barrel. Perhaps I just want a Mk12modH.

Is the above typical for y’all though as far as zero shift. Seemed that the non-bipod positions were fairly consistent.
 
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Well, beside me and my barrel not doing well today, there was obvious shifting from different positions at 100y.

Top left: probe with bipod and rear bag
Top right: tripod standing off bag
Bottom left: tripod kneeling off bag
Bottom right: prone sling support

View attachment 8391824

And yeah, I need more tripod/standing work I know. This BRT barrel today was 1.5-2 moa, which was not very good. On a good day it’ll do 1.2-1.5. Perhaps I’m asking to much from a hammer forged, chrome lined barrel. Perhaps I just want a Mk12modH.

Is the above typical for y’all though as far as zero shift. Seemed that the non-bipod positions were fairly consistent.

You may just need to do a little experimenting with different ammunition or loadings to see what that barrel may perform with. Not having any information on what ammo was shot out of a CL barrel, the groups looks normal. for a practical accuracy stand point of hitting steel, i would consider it acceptable.

FWIW, if you, or really anyone is going after something SPR'ish in terms of performance, I am not sure that a CHF CL barrel is the right tool for the job. I would of probably went with something like a bartlien from cradock precsion. You are going to spend twice as much on the Bartlien, and you rifles going to be noticeably heavier than a general purpose CL barrel, but its accuracy is going to be noticeably better.

I think alot of times we as a group get caught up on trying to jam as much capability into a rifle as possible. 10 inch carbines with 8X optics. SPR's with flashlights, vertical grips, and 1.97 mounts. Most "battle" rifles being configured as DMR's.

In regards to the shifting, not sure I've noticed a shift like that in the past. Are you getting a consisting cheekweld/position? what optic/mount are you running. years ago, I was getting groups like that out of an 1-8 accupower, and it wasnt until I got home that I notice that like an asshole, my mount/rings were not torqued down.
 
You may just need to do a little experimenting with different ammunition or loadings to see what that barrel may perform with. Not having any information on what ammo was shot out of a CL barrel, the groups looks normal. for a practical accuracy stand point of hitting steel, i would consider it acceptable.

FWIW, if you, or really anyone is going after something SPR'ish in terms of performance, I am not sure that a CHF CL barrel is the right tool for the job. I would of probably went with something like a bartlien from cradock precsion. You are going to spend twice as much on the Bartlien, and you rifles going to be noticeably heavier than a general purpose CL barrel, but its accuracy is going to be noticeably better.

I think alot of times we as a group get caught up on trying to jam as much capability into a rifle as possible. 10 inch carbines with 8X optics. SPR's with flashlights, vertical grips, and 1.97 mounts. Most "battle" rifles being configured as DMR's.

In regards to the shifting, not sure I've noticed a shift like that in the past. Are you getting a consisting cheekweld/position? what optic/mount are you running. years ago, I was getting groups like that out of an 1-8 accupower, and it wasnt until I got home that I notice that like an asshole, my mount/rings were not torqued down.
Ammo: AAC 77 OTM, 2630 FPD, 24-26 SD. This ammo is so far the more accurate out of this barrel.

Barrel: Black River Tactical 16” “Optimum” CHF CL barrel

Optic: Trijicon VCOG SCO 1-8 set at 8x

Yeah the norm for this barrel is 1.5 MOA. And yeah I chase the Mk12 concept while keeping it as “general purpose as possible”. Its not the best idea I am seeing. I want the precision but also the barrel life.
 
Ammo: AAC 77 OTM, 2630 FPD, 24-26 SD. This ammo is so far the more accurate out of this barrel.

Barrel: Black River Tactical 16” “Optimum” CHF CL barrel

Optic: Trijicon VCOG SCO 1-8 set at 8x

Yeah the norm for this barrel is 1.5 MOA. And yeah I chase the Mk12 concept while keeping it as “general purpose as possible”. Its not the best idea I am seeing. I want the precision but also the barrel life.

How many rounds are you firing a year. Barrel life may be irrelevant if it's going to take 5 or 10 years to burn out a barrel.

It might be worth it to just run a second accuracy barrel when you want to do accuracy stuff.
 
@GUNNER10 True. Realistically I’m doing 2k rounds per year, and that is a stretch. More like 1k. I think I’ve had this barrel since late 2023 and I’m at 565 rounds, most of that slow fire, and about 150 of that during one competition in January. At this rate, this barrel would last 10-13 years if not longer. A SS barrel maybe 5-6 years.

I’m also retarded and think every barrel has to last the apocalypse. Emphasis on the retarded portion of that statement.
 
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@GUNNER10 True. Realistically I’m doing 2k rounds per year, and that is a stretch. More like 1k. I think I’ve had this barrel since late 2023 and I’m at 565 rounds, most of that slow fire, and about 150 of that during one competition in January. At this rate, this barrel would last 10-13 years if not longer. A SS barrel maybe 5-6 years.

I’m also retarded and think every barre has to last the apocalypse. Emphasis on the retarded portion of that statement.

Yeah, I too am retarded in some areas, notably redundant setups. I also have two MWS's as well as an SR25 set up for longer range stuff but for some reason I only have on bipod so doing stuff that makes no sense is right up my alley.

I am just saying that it might be ok, for just one barrel being more geared to accuracy than barrel life, lol.
 
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I have a quad rail MRP upper, a mlok MRP upper and a mlok mws upper.

I think the quad rail upper is slim for what it is. That said, I'd still skip it, as the mlok is more comfortable for offhand shooting. And the mlok is 6oz lighter than the quad rail version, which is quite a bit a out front. Sounds like you'll have a heavier barrel, and an optic, weight adds up fast...

I filed down the mlok fasteners a bit, and now I can change barrels without having to remove accessories.

My factory 20" 6.5 stainless barrel is quite accurate (IMO). 5x5 group with 140 grain American Gunner printed .8 MOA. I'm sure there is a more accurate load out there for the barrel, but it's literally the first and only ammo I've bother to shoot out of it.
 
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Appreciate the caution on pic rail, but I kinda hate Mlok. If I don’t end up using the MRPL upper, my handguard will at least change to a BCM QRF 12. Though I can definitely see a MRPL in my future. The absolute ease of mounting to a rail is so nice.
 
I'm an admitted LMT fan boy. The quad rail upper is from a LEO trade-in I got from Colonial Armory. Anyone else remember Steve? Lol. That upper came with the lower on the bottom rifle. Over the last few years I've picked up both SLK uppers, a 224 Valk conversion, 10.5" 5.56 barrel, MARS lower on the pistol, and had @unclemoak do a 450 Bushmaster conversion which is in the old quadrail. I know I don't use them to their potential, but I also know they will 100% function when I call on them. Now I just need to decide if I want to build another pistol or rifle with my lonely defender lower.
 

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I’ve been thinning the herd of some items that have just been taking up safe space and got my first LMT in trade. MARS-L that was originally 16”, barrel cut to 13.9” and P/W both done by Wilson.
Planning for some range time in a week or two.View attachment 8395099
Jealous of the piston setup!
 
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More testing today with POI shift. I can definitely see a d.wilson modded MRP in my future. Today saw an average deviation of -.3 mil elevation and .2 mil right compared to the control prone/bipod/bag string.

IMG_2580.jpeg


Kinda feel like the MRP would clean up the deviation. For now, I’ll add .3 to my DOPE and hold left .2 when shooting in other positions. Hopefully it’ll pay off for a DMR match on Sunday.
 
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Lol,

Honestly, LMT does need to touch up their QC, but, for the most part, they have been putting out decent mrp barrels for the last 20 years, and even out side of dave, LMT's patent is expiring soon so I would expect more options to come online.

My factory 6.5cm barrel is phenomenal, and shoots on par with a previous krieger I ran.

LMT's monolithic patents are expired permanently as of May 2023... unless there are others that you're thinking about...
 
I'm seeing very similar flex and POI changes with a 22 ARC right now. I'm using a DD MIR handguard. I'm somewhere between a Radian builders kit, blowing a shit ton of money on the RD LPR just so I can pull it's barrel off, and an MRP upper and sending D Wilson my 22 ARC barrel to convert. The MRP would be cheaper if the 3 options but a 13" handguard is goofy on a 20" barrel. The Radian re-biild option is no guarantee of eliminating flex. The RD LPR is unicorn dust and a pretty expensive fix for a $300 handguard problem.
 
Would the 12” LaRue quad rail be period correct ?
No. Not for a kosher mk12 clone. You've two choices. For a mod1, you want the KAC FF RAS (rifle length). For the mod0 you'll want the PRI carbon handguard.

I wanted a mk12 mod 0, it's more iconic more unique and more aesthetic than the mod 1 (IMO). But I was a poor college student and the mod 1 was significantly less expensive to build. Many mod 0 parts were out of production and very expensive when found. So I built a mod 1 as a compromise... And now things have flipped. The mod 1s are expensive due to the FF RAS. If you really want a mk12, I'd go with the mod 0 for cool factor and cost. Or a mod h (it's the most practical). I'd only do a mod1 if it were a grail gun or I were a serious collector emphasizing historical accuracy.

Or you can just do a generic SPR or recce, which will end up less expensive and more capable. But you won't get to impress/flex on people with your RARE parts if you do that... so it's kind of up to you to figure out what is most important to you.
 
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