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Thank you. I will use that.
What is procedure for removal when needed?
Sorry but your test is in no way relevant to the intended use of red loctite. It is used to keep threaded assemblies together. To seperate them they will need to be heated to 500+ degrees. Sleeve retainer is what the OP needs. Loctite make 3 grades with different gap filling abilities and heat ranges. You will also need heat to separate the barrel from the receiver.
I don’t want to offend anyone and understand using locktite to fill in the gaps but why locktite it makes it so much harder to replace your barrel I have built at least 40 AR10 and AR15 and they all had enough torque on the barrel nut to keep it in place. Your filling in gaps between the receiver and barrel nut also which have no real affect in a free floated barrel. Just my opinion from my limited experience. I want to be able to take my barrel nuts back off some times I change handguards.
If you think we are putting it on the threads you don't understand why we use it.I don’t want to offend anyone and understand using locktite to fill in the gaps but why locktite it makes it so much harder to replace your barrel I have built at least 40 AR10 and AR15 and they all had enough torque on the barrel nut to keep it in place. Your filling in gaps between the receiver and barrel nut also which have no real affect in a free floated barrel. Just my opinion from my limited experience. I want to be able to take my barrel nuts back off some times I change handguards.
My apologies I read it wrong I know understand its between the barrel and receiver the get tighter tolerances. I’ve had barrels I’ve literally had to beat into the receiver but they were usual billet receivers and high end barrels. Not sure if I could have got some of them back out very easily after shooting 1000 rounds or more. I have an older AR I might try this on.If you think we are putting it on the threads you don't understand why we use it.
My apologies I read it
My apologies I read it wrong I know understand its between the barrel and receiver the get tighter tolerances. I’ve had barrels I’ve literally had to beat into the receiver but they were usual billet receivers and high end barrels. Not sure if I could have got some of them back out very easily after shooting 1000 rounds or more. I have an older AR I might try this on.
If you have to tap the barrel extension into the receiver the connection is probably rigid enough and Loctite may not do anything at all. Squaring those receivers may not help either since the OD of the extension and ID of the receiver is what would align the barrel and receiver bore. Vltor Mur and what was Mega receievrs are known to be tight like that.My apologies I read it
My apologies I read it wrong I know understand its between the barrel and receiver the get tighter tolerances. I’ve had barrels I’ve literally had to beat into the receiver but they were usual billet receivers and high end barrels. Not sure if I could have got some of them back out very easily after shooting 1000 rounds or more. I have an older AR I might try this on.
I do on precision builds, duty/combat rifles with red dots probably wont make any noticeable difference . The deal is the scope attaches to the receiver and the barrel to the receiver. That connection we are talking about is the bridge between the scope and barrel.Have you guys seen a before and after increase in accuracy from this not sure how many ARs I own currently somewhere between 7-9 and anywhere from a AR-9 to 458- Socom. I think some of the 223’s and maybe 300 BO could benefit from this.
No just meaning the barrel extension to receiver connection is important to get good scope to barrel rigidity for accuracy.So are you talking about when the scope mount bridges across the rail into the barrel section. Sorry about all the questions I have a precision 224 Valkyrie I might mess around with.
No just meaning the barrel extension to receiver connection is important to get good scope to barrel rigidity for accuracy.