Ive got a very picky customer that insists on having Loctite used on his new rebarrel assembly. This is not something Ive ever done before but as they say, the customer is always right. Anyway what would you guys recomend I use, he says this rifle will see him out so I dont have to worry about ever having to take it off again.
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Gunsmithing Loctite for reciever/barrel
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Re: Loctite for reciever/barrel
I use "green sleeve locker" (for installing sleeves in diesel engines) when I do press fit barrels (Old Remmy .22's). You will have to figure out the whole compressibility of fluids thing unless you chamber in the receiver. FWIW I'd coat the 2 threads closest to the shoulder and be able to sleep at night after telling him you used Loc-Tite as per his instructions.
Cheers,
Doc
I use "green sleeve locker" (for installing sleeves in diesel engines) when I do press fit barrels (Old Remmy .22's). You will have to figure out the whole compressibility of fluids thing unless you chamber in the receiver. FWIW I'd coat the 2 threads closest to the shoulder and be able to sleep at night after telling him you used Loc-Tite as per his instructions.
Cheers,
Doc
Re: Loctite for reciever/barrel
For his sake (and for any fellow gunsmith)...please don't locktite the whole thread length. Put some "neversneeze" on the early threads and some low strength blue on the last threads as doc76251 suggested. Some poor soul will have to break that down in the future. Don't use Stud and Bearing Seal. Your Karma will be toad frogs. JMHO
For his sake (and for any fellow gunsmith)...please don't locktite the whole thread length. Put some "neversneeze" on the early threads and some low strength blue on the last threads as doc76251 suggested. Some poor soul will have to break that down in the future. Don't use Stud and Bearing Seal. Your Karma will be toad frogs. JMHO
Re: Loctite for reciever/barrel
As mentoned above heat will break it down. I rebarreled an m1 that the previous smith had overtimed he locktited it to help hold it secure. That thing was scary tight till I warmed it up a bit and it came right off. As a rule I will apply a little heat if they seem too tight in case locktite was applied. I ran into it on an XP 100 as well.
As mentoned above heat will break it down. I rebarreled an m1 that the previous smith had overtimed he locktited it to help hold it secure. That thing was scary tight till I warmed it up a bit and it came right off. As a rule I will apply a little heat if they seem too tight in case locktite was applied. I ran into it on an XP 100 as well.
Re: Loctite for reciever/barrel
As mentoned above heat will break it down. I rebarreled an m1 that the previous smith had overtimed he locktited it to help hold it secure. That thing was scary tight till I warmed it up a bit and it came right off. As a rule I will apply a little heat if they seem too tight in case locktite was applied. I ran into it on an XP 100 as well.
As mentoned above heat will break it down. I rebarreled an m1 that the previous smith had overtimed he locktited it to help hold it secure. That thing was scary tight till I warmed it up a bit and it came right off. As a rule I will apply a little heat if they seem too tight in case locktite was applied. I ran into it on an XP 100 as well.
Re: Loctite for reciever/barrel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For his sake (and for any fellow gunsmith)...please don't locktite the whole thread length. Put some "neversneeze" on the early threads and some low strength blue on the last threads as doc76251 suggested. Some poor soul will have to break that down in the future. Don't use Stud and Bearing Seal. Your Karma will be toad frogs. JMHO </div></div>
Dead on with the antisieze. I never use Loctite. Had a Mauser that the builder had Loctited down and when another smith tried to pull the barrel, he let out a string of obscenities that would make a formal naval person blush. I don't even put a great deal of torque when screwing in the barrel. I let the action wrench fall 90deg or so and gently snug it with light pressure.
As a note, I am no gunsmith. I have pulled and put on some prethreaded barrels on a few actons.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For his sake (and for any fellow gunsmith)...please don't locktite the whole thread length. Put some "neversneeze" on the early threads and some low strength blue on the last threads as doc76251 suggested. Some poor soul will have to break that down in the future. Don't use Stud and Bearing Seal. Your Karma will be toad frogs. JMHO </div></div>
Dead on with the antisieze. I never use Loctite. Had a Mauser that the builder had Loctited down and when another smith tried to pull the barrel, he let out a string of obscenities that would make a formal naval person blush. I don't even put a great deal of torque when screwing in the barrel. I let the action wrench fall 90deg or so and gently snug it with light pressure.
As a note, I am no gunsmith. I have pulled and put on some prethreaded barrels on a few actons.
Re: Loctite for reciever/barrel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 19Scout77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd use the INVISIBLE kind! </div></div>
Good answer
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 19Scout77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'd use the INVISIBLE kind! </div></div>
Good answer
Re: Loctite for reciever/barrel
i guess i would not be happy if i was the customer and came across this thread. this should be his call. not ours.
and as a machinist, i'd suggest plain 'ol medium strength blue Loc-tite for the guy that wants his barrel installed with Loc-tite.
and seriously, if you throw out the "compressibility of fluids thing " as an issue with loc-tite, just remember that anti-seize will cause the same "issue"
i guess i would not be happy if i was the customer and came across this thread. this should be his call. not ours.
and as a machinist, i'd suggest plain 'ol medium strength blue Loc-tite for the guy that wants his barrel installed with Loc-tite.
and seriously, if you throw out the "compressibility of fluids thing " as an issue with loc-tite, just remember that anti-seize will cause the same "issue"
Re: Loctite for reciever/barrel
Just curious-WHY does this guy want you to use Loc-tite? Let him come to your shop and have him TRY to unscrew a factory Remington 700 barrel. Has he had a barrel loosen up?
Just curious-WHY does this guy want you to use Loc-tite? Let him come to your shop and have him TRY to unscrew a factory Remington 700 barrel. Has he had a barrel loosen up?
Re: Loctite for reciever/barrel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lt. Arclight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just curious-WHY does this guy want you to use Loc-tite? Let him come to your shop and have him TRY to unscrew a factory Remington 700 barrel. Has he had a barrel loosen up? </div></div>
Yes he did and it scared the shit out of him so to give him peace of mind Im going to give him what he wants. I think the blue Loctite sounds about right. If my customer wants a swimming pool built into his custom barrel, Ill try and give him just that.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lt. Arclight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just curious-WHY does this guy want you to use Loc-tite? Let him come to your shop and have him TRY to unscrew a factory Remington 700 barrel. Has he had a barrel loosen up? </div></div>
Yes he did and it scared the shit out of him so to give him peace of mind Im going to give him what he wants. I think the blue Loctite sounds about right. If my customer wants a swimming pool built into his custom barrel, Ill try and give him just that.
Re: Loctite for reciever/barrel
Wow. I know this isn't what you're asking, and perhaps I am "asking for a blasting" here, but.... when I choose who I am going to have do *any* sort of work [custom or otherwise] for me, I try to go with someone whom I consider to be an expert - or at least knows more than I do. From there, I figure I am paying a premium price for that expertise I don't possess myself or find in someone else. Then I make it a practice to LISTEN to what that expert tells me.
On the other hand, I do consultant work and sometimes it costs me business, but I don't subscribe to the adage that the customer is *always* right. Especially where technical details are concerned. There are times when I advise folks on what I think is best, and if they simply MUST do it differently, I gently ask if they know more than I do, why come to me in the first place? I then refer them to someone who will do things their way.
Give him the benefit of your expertise. Offer your professional advice, and be sure to take the time to explain to him WHY you have this opinion. Then, if he insists he knows more than you, either:
A) let him specify exactly what he wants, with the understanding that you don't recommend/take responsibility for it or;
B) send him down the road.
That said, I bought a rifle (from a member here) with a brake locktited on with red locktite. A little heat from a propane torch and it came right off. No damage to the finish or anything.
Wow. I know this isn't what you're asking, and perhaps I am "asking for a blasting" here, but.... when I choose who I am going to have do *any* sort of work [custom or otherwise] for me, I try to go with someone whom I consider to be an expert - or at least knows more than I do. From there, I figure I am paying a premium price for that expertise I don't possess myself or find in someone else. Then I make it a practice to LISTEN to what that expert tells me.
On the other hand, I do consultant work and sometimes it costs me business, but I don't subscribe to the adage that the customer is *always* right. Especially where technical details are concerned. There are times when I advise folks on what I think is best, and if they simply MUST do it differently, I gently ask if they know more than I do, why come to me in the first place? I then refer them to someone who will do things their way.
Give him the benefit of your expertise. Offer your professional advice, and be sure to take the time to explain to him WHY you have this opinion. Then, if he insists he knows more than you, either:
A) let him specify exactly what he wants, with the understanding that you don't recommend/take responsibility for it or;
B) send him down the road.
That said, I bought a rifle (from a member here) with a brake locktited on with red locktite. A little heat from a propane torch and it came right off. No damage to the finish or anything.
Re: Loctite for reciever/barrel
Blue loctite is un-necessary but definitely not going to hurt you either. I would use it sparingly and both of you are happy. It will be no less difficult than removing a factory remington barrel. Although they are a pain in the ass, they will come off without damage if done properly.
Blue loctite is un-necessary but definitely not going to hurt you either. I would use it sparingly and both of you are happy. It will be no less difficult than removing a factory remington barrel. Although they are a pain in the ass, they will come off without damage if done properly.
Re: Loctite for reciever/barrel
Loctite # 222. It will look pretty and not do a darn thing. LOL!
Loctite # 222. It will look pretty and not do a darn thing. LOL!
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