Looking at a .300 PRC build to shoot 2000 Yards

[HemiPowrd]

I'm looking to build a .300 PRC precision rifle to shoot 2000 yards. I'm not fully decided on .300 PRC yet, but preliminary research is leading me in that direction. I'm wanting a caliber that will reach out, but not leave dents in my shoulder. I've never built my own rifle and I've never owned a long action so I'm going to need some help with this. I'll probably want to shoot 225 or 230 gr High BC bullets. I want to get the barrel ordered soon since I'll have to wait awhile to get my hands on it. I reload and will most likely hand load for this rifle as well. I don't have an unlimited budget, but can spend what is needed.

That said this what I'm looking at building:

Coup De Grace Action in .300 PRC
Bartlein 400 BB heavy Palma 30" barrel - not sure on barrel length or profile
MDT ACC Premier Remington LA CIP 3.85 chassis (not sure if this will work with the CDG action)
Atlas 5H Bipod
ARC Mbrace 30 MOA scope mount
I already have a ZCO 5-27 and a 8-40, but will probably need to purchase a scope for one of my rifles so this is somewhat open.
I have a Thunderbeast Ultra 7 suppressor which is rated for this caliber so I'll probably use it.

I've shot 6.5 CM out to 1000 yds, but I don't know what I don't know so any suggestions are appreciated!

 

[The D]

Looks good.

One more option to consider, because you are considering the CDG(great choice as well), is 300 Norma. There is great factory ammo available but handloads will be even better. You can definitely stick with 300 PRC because, honestly, there are dozens of cartridges that are capable of your goal

With the progress of bolt actions and their ability of being firearm Legos, there are also dozens of ways to build the hardware to get you to your goal. The biggest factor will be you. But this looks like a great plan so far and sounds like a fun journey

 

[kyzim311]

I have a similar rifle in 300 PRC, and I have a couple of thoughts.
If your goal is 2000 yards, bc is more important than anything. 230-250 grain bullets is what you will want.
You will also want the 30" barrel. Barrel length is free velocity, and this is not going to be a short rifle so 30" makes sense (that is as long as a standard blank will finish at).
You will want a break over a can. I shot mine a total of 2 shots before I put the break back on, and my rifle is about 17-18 lbs. Weight helps, but it is a lot of rifle to tame with weight alone.
You will need CIP length mags, like you have specd. CDG should accommodate but you can call ARC to confirm.

 

[Schw15]

I shoot 30 nosler suppressed all the time In 30 inch barrel and yes the brake takes more recoil away the supressor is a light push and calm and no crazy muzzle blast. I shoot the ultra 9 and rather shoot supressed. Judy gotta make sure you get a hold of the rifle better.

 

[amymorgan20]

Build list looks pretty solid to me. 300 PRC is a solid option.

 

[ForgeValley]

Nothing to really improve on in that build. Jealous of the 8-40 ZCO. I too would recommend a brake over the suppressor, check out the APA Fat Bastard. If you haven't ordered the ModBB blank yet, it will probably take awhile.

 

[Overwatch.30]

APA Fat B@st@rd is the way to go. My .300 Norma is a kitten weighing in right at 18lbs. You can put 40-60rounds through it in an afternoon no problem. The only limiting factors for a day at the range are barrel heat & time.

 

[NearSighted25]

APA Fat B@st@rd is the way to go. My .300 Norma is a kitten weighing in right at 18lbs. You can put 40-60rounds through it in an afternoon no problem. The only limiting factors for a day at the range are barrel heat & time.

I posted elsewhere about having a bad shoulder and the .300 PRC. Does this brake really make an 18lb .300 Norma that good? What caliber rifle/weight without a brake could you compare it to? Do you think the APA FB would be superior to the factory brake on a Ruger RPR in .300 PRC? Appreciate it.

 

[jmw]

My 20 pound 300 Norma is a pussy cat with area 419 sidewinder brake. And yes a fat bastard would be superior the stock brake. Fat bastards are very good at recoil reduction

 

[Overwatch.30]

I posted elsewhere about having a bad shoulder and the .300 PRC. Does this brake really make an 18lb .300 Norma that good? What caliber rifle/weight without a brake could you compare it to? Do you think the APA FB would be superior to the factory brake on a Ruger RPR in .300 PRC? Appreciate it.

It's right between my .223 AR & my .308 AR. Both have factory brakes & are obviously gas guns. So, .270ish? Never shot the RPR brake so I can't speak to that. I can say my norma is infinitely more pleasant to shoot than my old .30-06 hunting rifle.

 

[NearSighted25]

My 20 pound 300 Norma is a pussy cat with area 419 hellfire brak

It's right between my .223 AR & my .308 AR. Both have factory brakes & are obviously gas guns. So, .270ish? Never shot the RPR brake so I can't speak to that. I can say my norma is infinitely more pleasant to shoot than my old .30-06 hunting rifle.

Thank you. This is really helpful. That recoil I believe I can handle.

 

[Newbie2020]

I’d still vote suppressed over brake. Double ear pro isn’t enough to cut the noise. Recoil is manageable w my Dead Air Nomad-L plus e-brake, and noise level w double ear pro is a joy.

You’ll thank me later.

 

[HemiPowrd]

Got lucky and my local gunsmith has a 30" 1:9 Bartlein barrel in some sort of F class profile just lying around. Diameter starts at 1.350" and tapers down to .930.

I plan on using the suppressor I already have and if I don't like it I'll put a muzzle brake on it.

 

[Pete Cefalu]

Got lucky and my local gunsmith has a 30" 1:9 Bartlein barrel in some sort of F class profile just lying around. Diameter starts at 1.350" and tapers down to .930.

I plan on using the suppressor I already have and if I don't like it I'll put a muzzle brake on it.

are you sure the high BC bullets you wish to shoot into transonic flight will exit stabilized? I'm no expert, but my experience tells me 1:9 is marginal at best. Berger's website has a stability anylizer calculater that can help you find the magic pill for that twist rate.

 

[Obi-WanKannoli]

are you sure the high BC bullets you wish to shoot into transonic flight will exit stabilized? I'm no expert, but my experience tells me 1:9 is marginal at best. Berger's website has a stability anylizer calculater that can help you find the magic pill for that twist rate.

1:9 will be good to go with these. Take a look at the JBM stability calculator, and lots of people in the big 300 PRC thread have settled on 1:9 as the go-to as well. I know people have had issues with bullets going poof with the 1:8. Even on the 245's, Berger says 1:9 or faster.

 

[BurtG]

Accessories - Bartlein 400MODBB last one

2 blanks 30 cal, 1-8 twist, 29", MTU, $1300 $1250 shipped for both. one blank left, .30 cal 400MODBB, 29", 1-8 tw, MTU (1.250" - .930"), $680 shipped

www.snipershide.com

Here’s a modbb

 

[Sentinel89]

I too am building a 300 PRC on the ARC CDG action. Having trouble deciding on a barrel profile, I'd like to have some weight to it for stability but not a truck axle either. Had basically settled on a 26" 9 twist steel barrel with an aggressive brake, but should I go to 28" or beyond? Likely won't shoot anything over 230gr.

Still tire kicking on what to use for a stock/chassis, thinking a Cadex Lite Competition but there are a few other options. Also eyeing up Manners EH1A stocks but not sure if the weight savings would be an advantage or not.

 

[xphunter]

Got lucky and my local gunsmith has a 30" 1:9 Bartlein barrel in some sort of F class profile just lying around. Diameter starts at 1.350" and tapers down to .930.

I plan on using the suppressor I already have and if I don't like it I'll put a muzzle brake on it.

This will work...Using the suppressor you already have is wise.
If it works for you, great!
If not, you can put a brake on it-Good thinking on your part!
This is extremely doable with this set-up
Myself and others have done it with less-Enjoy!

 

[HemiPowrd]

I too am building a 300 PRC on the ARC CDG action. Having trouble deciding on a barrel profile, I'd like to have some weight to it for stability but not a truck axle either. Had basically settled on a 26" 9 twist steel barrel with an aggressive brake, but should I go to 28" or beyond? Likely won't shoot anything over 230gr.

Still tire kicking on what to use for a stock/chassis, thinking a Cadex Lite Competition but there are a few other options. Also eyeing up Manners EH1A stocks but not sure if the weight savings would be an advantage or not.

For barrel length I guess it depends on how far you plan to shoot. Longer barrel = free fps = flatter trajectory = longer distance before going transonic.

 

[Frank Green]

If your going to run up to 250gr bullets at least a 8.5 twist. Depending on the bullet maybe a 8 twist.

Up to 230's a 9 twist is plenty and that's what I'm running on my gun. My barrel is 32" finish but the next one will most likely be a 30". I don't feel the extra 2" is giving me any extra velocity. Shoots really good though! The 230's both SMK and the ATIPs are coming out at an honest 2900fps. That's with H1000 powder. At that velocity and depending on elevation, conditions etc...that will keep your bullet just above the speed of sound at 2000 to 2100 yards.

Barrel contour is only going to affect weight and balance. So you have to figure in your other components.

My barrel contour on my Barnard action is 1.350" x 5" str. tapers to 1.050" @ 32". Weighs just over 10#. Think 10.6# before threading and chamber and cutting and crowning the muzzle.

5R rifling.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

 

[HemiPowrd]

If your going to run up to 250gr bullets at least a 8.5 twist. Depending on the bullet maybe a 8 twist.

Up to 230's a 9 twist is plenty and that's what I'm running on my gun. My barrel is 32" finish but the next one will most likely be a 30". I don't feel the extra 2" is giving me any extra velocity. Shoots really good though! The 230's both SMK and the ATIPs are coming out at an honest 2900fps. That's with H1000 powder. At that velocity and depending on elevation, conditions etc...that will keep your bullet just above the speed of sound at 2000 to 2100 yards.

Barrel contour is only going to affect weight and balance. So you have to figure in your other components.

My barrel contour on my Barnard action is 1.350" x 5" str. tapers to 1.050" @ 32". Weighs just over 10#. Think 10.6# before threading and chamber and cutting and crowning the muzzle.

5R rifling.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

Thanks Frank! I'm stocked up on 230gr ATIPs and just received 8lbs of H1000. Care to share the load you're using?

 

[Sentinel89]

For barrel length I guess it depends on how far you plan to shoot. Longer barrel = free fps = flatter trajectory = longer distance before going transonic.

I'm going for a mile, as that's about the limit of my available firing space. By the time a mile is no longer fun the barrel is probably shot out and can reevaluate twist and finished length at that point.

 

[Frank Green]

Thanks Frank! I'm stocked up on 230gr ATIPs and just received 8lbs of H1000. Care to share the load you're using?

CCI #200 primers. Gave me smaller SD's than Federal match.

76gr of H1000. That's about a max load. Work up to it. Every gun is different.

I'm about .010" to .020" off the lands depending on the bullet.

Let me know how it shoots for ya!

 

[HemiPowrd]

CCI #200 primers. Gave me smaller SD's than Federal match.

76gr of H1000. That's about a max load. Work up to it. Every gun is different.

I'm about .010" to .020" off the lands depending on the bullet.

Let me know how it shoots for ya!

Thanks! What is your cartridge over all length and what brass are you using? I'm tentatively planning on loading the ATIPs long and single feeding. I have ADG brass and just got ahold of some CCI 200 primers. Definitely planning on starting with lower charges and working my way up.

 

[Frank Green]

Thanks! What is your cartridge over all length and what brass are you using? I'm tentatively planning on loading the ATIPs long and single feeding. I have ADG brass and just got ahold of some CCI 200 primers. Definitely planning on starting with lower charges and working my way up.

My chamber is the Saami min spec. If your using a different spec. reamer and or depending how your saami spec reamer cuts your numbers can be different.

Your bullets will vary from lot to lot but here is where my bullets touch the rifling.

225 ELDM's = 3.717" o.a.l. or base to ogive is 3.950" (I don't zero the 1" off of my ogive comparator)

230SMK's = 3.825" o.a.l. or base to ogive is 3.960"

230 ATIPs = 3.826" o.a.l. or base to ogive is 3.967".

The bullet I took my initial reading on a brand new barrel with...I keep it in a box. Anytime I want to check throat/barrel wear use the same bullet because the lot's differ you can get different readings if you follow me? Same with that original bullet I can use it to compare to new lots of bullets and compare them that way as well.

Later, Frank

 

[HemiPowrd]

My chamber is the Saami min spec. If your using a different spec. reamer and or depending how your saami spec reamer cuts your numbers can be different.

Your bullets will vary from lot to lot but here is where my bullets touch the rifling.

225 ELDM's = 3.717" o.a.l. or base to ogive is 3.950" (I don't zero the 1" off of my ogive comparator)

230SMK's = 3.825" o.a.l. or base to ogive is 3.960"

230 ATIPs = 3.826" o.a.l. or base to ogive is 3.967".

The bullet I took my initial reading on a brand new barrel with...I keep it in a box. Anytime I want to check throat/barrel wear use the same bullet because the lot's differ you can get different readings if you follow me? Same with that original bullet I can use it to compare to new lots of bullets and compare them that way as well.

Later, Frank

Perfect! Thank you!!

 

[Frank Green]

Like I said...I start .010" to .020" off the lands. If it shoots like a million bucks...don't waste your time trying to jam the bullet etc..

Jamming the bullet doesn't guarantee you better accuracy. Also makes pressures spike/go up.

 

[Pete Cefalu]

CCI #200 primers. Gave me smaller SD's than Federal match.

76gr of H1000. That's about a max load. Work up to it. Every gun is different.

I'm about .010" to .020" off the lands depending on the bullet.

Let me know how it shoots for ya!

Hi Frank, that is the same charge i run with 250 A-Tips. Single digit SD at 2865 hold 1 MOA on 2nd-3rd shot impact at a mile. This also works at 2K, albeit less repeatability(Novice). Running a 30" MOD400BB 7.5(.5 gain) and enjoy minimal throat erosion and cracking.
My friends are charging to 77+
Knowing you have a 32" bbl, I'm curious if you tested the 250's, and if not, what would be your target MV. and conversely your max target MV.
I've followed a lot of B2LEE posts here that has helped a lot. He is running 245's to 2900 if i recall
GPG

 

[Frank Green]

Hi Frank, that is the same charge i run with 250 A-Tips. Single digit SD at 2865 hold 1 MOA on 2nd-3rd shot impact at a mile. This also works at 2K, albeit less repeatability(Novice). Running a 30" MOD400BB 7.5(.5 gain) and enjoy minimal throat erosion and cracking.
My friends are charging to 77+
Knowing you have a 32" bbl, I'm curious if you tested the 250's, and if not, what would be your target MV. and conversely your max target MV.
I've followed a lot of B2LEE posts here that has helped a lot. He is running 245's to 2900 if i recall
GPG

I haven't shot any of the 250's. My barrel twist is a 1-9. You would need in my opinion at least a 1-8.5 twist for the 250's.

2900fps with a 245/250gr bullet. I'm going to comfortably venture to say you over max working pressure.

My load was run thru an actual saami spec pressure test barrel and I was at max to 5k psi over the max working pressure.

 

[45-90]

I'm looking to build a .300 PRC precision rifle to shoot 2000 yards. I'm not fully decided on .300 PRC yet, but preliminary research is leading me in that direction. I'm wanting a caliber that will reach out, but not leave dents in my shoulder. I've never built my own rifle and I've never owned a long action so I'm going to need some help with this. I'll probably want to shoot 225 or 230 gr High BC bullets. I want to get the barrel ordered soon since I'll have to wait awhile to get my hands on it. I reload and will most likely hand load for this rifle as well. I don't have an unlimited budget, but can spend what is needed.

That said this what I'm looking at building:

Coup De Grace Action in .300 PRC
Bartlein 400 BB heavy Palma 30" barrel - not sure on barrel length or profile
MDT ACC Premier Remington LA CIP 3.85 chassis (not sure if this will work with the CDG action)
Atlas 5H Bipod
ARC Mbrace 30 MOA scope mount
I already have a ZCO 5-27 and a 8-40, but will probably need to purchase a scope for one of my rifles so this is somewhat open.
I have a Thunderbeast Ultra 7 suppressor which is rated for this caliber so I'll probably use it.

I've shot 6.5 CM out to 1000 yds, but I don't know what I don't know so any suggestions are appreciated!

The Australian LR shooting couple took a stock factory 308 Win, Rem 700 Police barreled action and put it in an aluminum chassis...fired it at 3000 yds hit the steel 2 out of 10 tries twice in a row.
They used a Berger 200.2 gr 20X bullet ....it's on video. Not difficult for an experienced shooter. So if your good and not into serious competition, where every edge is desired to win an event, you can use most any modern caliber...bullet splash is harder to spot with lighter calibers but the 6.5 CM can do it, for fun non competition shooting ...but it's not a king of two mile competition caliber by any stretch, but neither is the 300 PRC for that type of serious competition. So it's up to how far, and if it's for competition or fun.

 

[Newbie2020]

I’d recommend the 30” barrel, heavier profile the better. I have a 300 PRC shooting factory Hornady 225 eldm w 26” straight taper barrel and a dead air nomad L with the e-brake and it has no significant recoil to speak of.