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Looking to get into a 308 ar

Firemn260

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 14, 2017
38
4
I've been itching to step up to a 308 in the ar platform and I've narrowed down my search to two rifles. The PWS mk216 and the seekins sp10. Both these rifles are in my price range and my purpose is for deer hunting and target shooting out to around 500 yards.
Im leaning more towards the sp10 because the trigger seems to be a little better from what I have read and I'm not completely sold on the whole piston gun concept. I havent found to much info on either rifle so I'm just looking for a little input from people who own them. I would rather have the 16" barrel but I would like to hear the pros and cons for both the 16" and 18".

As as far as glass I am leaning towards the NF shv 4-14x50 f1. Is this a decent set up or is there better for the money? I'm also looking for input on which mounts to go with.

Thanks for any info y'all got.
 
Christensen Arm CA-10 DMR 18" 20" 24" ( if I like have AR-10 for hunting use )Weight and comfortable for carrying
if 20" barrel then : 30 and 50fps per inch increase in velocity for the 308.
20" -16" so can have 120-200 fps more and accurate
 
There are much better for the money, the best of all being a build by you or an LGS. A 16in barrel is fine. We can give you a parts list if you want it.
 
I dont know what kind of shooting you wanting to do but for some medium distance steel and hunting, the NF SHV you mention is a decent scope. I have one on my wifes 6.5 grendel. It tracks well and good glass. We use JP scope mounts but there are a lot of quality mounts. Larue for instance.
 
Sure thing, since your uses will be hunting and targets to around 500y, and your budget is right around $2200 for the rifle, this is what I would recommend:

Upper

- Barrel: Falkor DRACOS: https://www.dracosbarrels.com/produc...arrel-18-inch/ 18in $850. Comes with adjustable gas block and tube. If you want a different caliber (more on that below the build) they make them. The 18in is a good compromise length for your uses. If you'd rather go with a more traditional barrel have CLE spin you up a bartlein blank for ~$450, pair that with a Superlative Arms or SLR Rifleworks gas block.

- Upper & Handgaurd: Aero M5E1 kit: http://www.schuylerarmsco.com/produc...d-black-96-993 $350.

- Bolt Carrier Group: Aero Phosphate $190 http://www.badgerstateordnance.com/p...errations.html

- Charging Handle: Griffin Armament AR10 SNACH: https://www.rainierarms.com/griffin-...arging-handle/) $81.

- Muzzle Device: A suppressor. Use a cheap $6 .30cal A2 while you wait on the paperwork. If you'd like suppressor recommendations, let me know.

Lower

- Lower Receiver: Comes with kit.

- Small Parts: Any triggerless ar15 (yes ar15) LPK $25 (redbarnarmory has free shipping).

- Trigger: ELF AR10 trigger: https://www.redbarnarmory.com/Elftma...t-p/elf308.htm $250.

- Buffer Tube/Weight/Spring/Stock: M5 Carbine Kit http://www.schuylerarmsco.com/produc...stock-57-993 + Luth-AR Carbine stock ~ $220. Feel free to swap the spring to a Tubbs AR10 and/or remove the weights from the buffer.

- Grip: Tactical Link PDW or BCM or Magpul or B5, ~$21.

Accessories/Misc

- Bipod: Bipod & Attachment: Impact Weapon Components Mount-N-Slot V2 $26 + Harris 9-13in swivel $100.

- Sling: BFG Vicker's $59.

- Magazines: Lancers for factory ammo, Larue/KAC if you are going to reload.

- Lube: Slip 2000 EWL.

If you want to change it up, raise/lower the budget, discuss parts, need guides, or just have general questions let me know.


Ok, now onto calibers. A .308 is great but I just wanted to let you know there are other good options.

1.) .308/7.62x51 will have the cheapest plinking ammo out there if you don't reload. It will also be the most locally available (if that matters to you, I order everything in bulk). However the cheap ammo will not be accurate, so it is really only good for speed drills and blasting away at steel, precision work will require match ammo, which is just as expensive as 6.5 Creedmoor or 6mm Creedmoor match ammo.

2.) No matter which caliber you decide on, you should probably reload if you don't already, at least down the road. Better accuracy can be attained than with factory ammo, and at considerably less $/r. It also opens up calibers with better ballistics.

3.) Any caliber from an AR10 will kill deer (highly recommended) and kill paper at 600y+. The 6.5 Creedmoor, 6mm Creedmoor, 7mm Creedmoor, and others will just do it easier, with less drop and drift, and more energy on target, and it is much easier to track your shots due to lower recoil. Whether that is worth the increased cost per round for plinking ammo and/or having to reload sooner rather than later is up to you. For me I'd say go 7mm or 6mm Creedmoor. Here are some resources that should help: All pros use 6mm or 6.5mm for PRS http://precisionrifleblog.com/2017/0...-the-pros-use/, and going to 6.5 Creedmoor increases probability to hit 700y targets by ~25% http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/0...tridge-matter/ due to less drift (which is insane).
 
Sure thing, since your uses will be hunting and targets to around 500y, and your budget is right around $2200 for the rifle, this is what I would recommend:

Upper

- Barrel: Falkor DRACOS: https://www.dracosbarrels.com/produc...arrel-18-inch/ 18in $850. Comes with adjustable gas block and tube. If you want a different caliber (more on that below the build) they make them. The 18in is a good compromise length for your uses. If you'd rather go with a more traditional barrel have CLE spin you up a bartlein blank for ~$450, pair that with a Superlative Arms or SLR Rifleworks gas block.

- Upper & Handgaurd: Aero M5E1 kit: http://www.schuylerarmsco.com/produc...d-black-96-993 $350.

- Bolt Carrier Group: Aero Phosphate $190 http://www.badgerstateordnance.com/p...errations.html

- Charging Handle: Griffin Armament AR10 SNACH: https://www.rainierarms.com/griffin-...arging-handle/) $81.

- Muzzle Device: A suppressor. Use a cheap $6 .30cal A2 while you wait on the paperwork. If you'd like suppressor recommendations, let me know.

Lower

- Lower Receiver: Comes with kit.

- Small Parts: Any triggerless ar15 (yes ar15) LPK $25 (redbarnarmory has free shipping).

- Trigger: ELF AR10 trigger: https://www.redbarnarmory.com/Elftma...t-p/elf308.htm $250.

- Buffer Tube/Weight/Spring/Stock: M5 Carbine Kit http://www.schuylerarmsco.com/produc...stock-57-993 + Luth-AR Carbine stock ~ $220. Feel free to swap the spring to a Tubbs AR10 and/or remove the weights from the buffer.

- Grip: Tactical Link PDW or BCM or Magpul or B5, ~$21.

Accessories/Misc

- Bipod: Bipod & Attachment: Impact Weapon Components Mount-N-Slot V2 $26 + Harris 9-13in swivel $100.

- Sling: BFG Vicker's $59.

- Magazines: Lancers for factory ammo, Larue/KAC if you are going to reload.

- Lube: Slip 2000 EWL.

If you want to change it up, raise/lower the budget, discuss parts, need guides, or just have general questions let me know.


Ok, now onto calibers. A .308 is great but I just wanted to let you know there are other good options.

1.) .308/7.62x51 will have the cheapest plinking ammo out there if you don't reload. It will also be the most locally available (if that matters to you, I order everything in bulk). However the cheap ammo will not be accurate, so it is really only good for speed drills and blasting away at steel, precision work will require match ammo, which is just as expensive as 6.5 Creedmoor or 6mm Creedmoor match ammo.

2.) No matter which caliber you decide on, you should probably reload if you don't already, at least down the road. Better accuracy can be attained than with factory ammo, and at considerably less $/r. It also opens up calibers with better ballistics.

3.) Any caliber from an AR10 will kill deer (highly recommended) and kill paper at 600y+. The 6.5 Creedmoor, 6mm Creedmoor, 7mm Creedmoor, and others will just do it easier, with less drop and drift, and more energy on target, and it is much easier to track your shots due to lower recoil. Whether that is worth the increased cost per round for plinking ammo and/or having to reload sooner rather than later is up to you. For me I'd say go 7mm or 6mm Creedmoor. Here are some resources that should help: All pros use 6mm or 6.5mm for PRS http://precisionrifleblog.com/2017/0...-the-pros-use/, and going to 6.5 Creedmoor increases probability to hit 700y targets by ~25% http://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/0...tridge-matter/ due to less drift (which is insane).

thank you so much for taking the time to lay that out for me. I have built several ar15s so I have the basic skill set to accomplish this build.
Im going to go with the 308 because most of my shooting will probably be blasting steel and for the most part, minute of deer will be plenty accurate for me. I guess I let laziness get the best of me in wanting to buy a complete gun.
I do have reloading components minus a few small items so I will be diving into that shortly.
I would love to suppress this rifle but it's not really a priority right now. Maybe if this hearing protection act passes I will revisit that option.
Again I really appreciate the info.

 
I wasnt going to try to sway you from 308 but since it has been brought up, go 6 or 6.5 creed. The Seekins SP10 6.5 creed offering is a far superior rifle ballisticly than the 308.
The SHV is a decent scope and thats it. I would suggest looking at a NXS or ATACR from NF if considering a rifle such as a Seekins.
 
I'm swaying more now towards building my own and the 6 creedmore is not out of the question. I just like the availability of surplus ammo in 7.62x51. One of the things I'm not sure of is in the state of Maryland it's legal to get a complete built ar10 but I'm not sure about stripped receivers. I know that dosnt make sense but neither do the stupid laws in this stupid liberal state. The wording in the laws are very vague and you get a different answer depending on who you ask.

I would love love to have a nf nxs but I just don't think I'll have the coin after getting the rifle squared away.

I really appreciate the input so far gentleman. im glad I joined a forum that people are willing to guide me in the right direction instead of blast me for asking noob questions.
 
If you decide to build a .308, i would suggest you go with an 18" to get the rifle length gas system. 16 mid lengths definitely require tuning the gas down.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

 
I would go with either an 18" or 20" barrel personally. I've had multiple AR10s and i tend to lean towards the longer ones for their better gas systems, gain in fps, and gain in accuracy. Only problem is that they tend to get heavy fairly quickly. I would recommend looking at a GAP10. I like the POF style ones personally. I have a 20" POF308 with a Bushnell elite tactical and it is a great rifle. I might sell soon because i F***ed up my left shoulder and cannot shoot it well standing anymore. Are you going to shoot with bipods/ rest of some kind or standing unsupported? Don't forget to think about your shooting style when looking at rifles
 
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I would go with either an 18" or 20" barrel personally. I've had multiple AR10s and i tend to lean towards the longer ones for their better gas systems, gain in fps, and gain in accuracy. Only problem is that they tend to get heavy fairly quickly. I would recommend looking at a GAP10. I like the POF style ones personally. I have a 20" POF308 with a Bushnell elite tactical and it is a great rifle. I might sell soon because i F***ed up my left shoulder and cannot shoot it well standing anymore. Are you going to shoot with bipods/ rest of some kind or standing unsupported? Don't forget to think about your shooting style when looking at rifles

thats a good point. I will be shooting off a bipod most of the time.
Im pretty set on a 18 inch barrel. Besides the good points you bring up I like the look of a 15" rail with a 18" barrel.

 
thats a good point. I will be shooting off a bipod most of the time.
Im pretty set on a 18 inch barrel. Besides the good points you bring up I like the look of a 15" rail with a 18" barrel.

I completely agree. A 15" rail with ab 18" barrel looks perfectly balanced to me. I would suggest getting a decent stock fit the rifle. I like bigger fixed DMR style stocks (prs) and not an adjustable (ctr) style for the fixed shooting position on a bipod. It gives me an easier time replicating longer shots and you are not usually worried about mobility shooting prone or from a bench/ rest.