Low Cost Annealers

MMH

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Minuteman
Mar 17, 2013
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I have not annealed brass before and want to start. What are some decent low cost annealers?

Alternatively, I got all of the parts for a DIY annealer (Elfster's) following this youtube:


Anybody use this DIY annealer?
 
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There is no need outside of being an F-class or benchers shooter with a very high firing schedule. (because proper annealing can increase brass life)

There is no consistency in using a torch on a case - what do you even believe you are doing? If it’s grain restructuring that’s been proven to only achieve at a very specific temperature and you can likely over-anneal your brass and damage it. So the question isn't why not anneal. It is why should you anneal? you need to prove things are beneficial to add them to your reloading routine not vice versa. Spending a bunch of time playing with a torch that may help or hurt your reloads isn't necessary at all and usually distracts from why they aren't reloading at a high level to begin with.


Some people falsely believe annealing will somehow magically improve their reloads. it will not. here's 6x fired lapua brass that has never been annealed.

1713440752479.png
 
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I got bitten with the annealing craze with all the posts here about a year or so ago. I got the ''Ugly" mainly because I could load about 75+ 308 cases into it's hopper and tend to a case trimming project next to the "Ugly . I'm tending to think the "don't bother" crowd above are correct at least when it comes to 308 cases. I wasted about 25 308 cases trying to get the necks to even slightly show any signs of being heated which was well past the time it took for the 750* paste to turn.
Unless you just want another reloading project , get a 1# bottle , a pencil tip and a socket ** and some "Tempilaq" and do 15 (+-) cases and compare the accuracy from these cases against just resized cases
** should be plenty of U-Tube video's on using a socket and a drill to anneal cases.
If you're in the NW part of Fla. you could try mine.
 
I recently purchased an AGS annealer. Setup and use was pretty simple. Time will tell if annealing provides any benefit to my shooting and brass life.
I have the AGS as well. There is a coupon code floating around somewhere and shipping was very fast.

For me, I’m just trying to extend my brass life as much as possible
 
For what it's worth I advised a few changes be made on the Annealeez unit and did so years back **.
Makes NO difference to Me what You call your process or method used ,just condition your cases . I've found for myself after #3 firings ductility needs to be restored or one takes a chance on neck splits . That's not gospel because sometimes they go 10 but NOT in MY weapons .

**It seems Now many of those additional changes have in fact been made . See MY unit and clamp rerouting from original hose hole . It's hard to visually see the angle MY flame hits the case shoulder towards neck juncture but it's not at 90 Deg. ,it actually points towards the neck away from the wheels .
Yes Mine are covered with aluminum foil ,so as NOT to cook the wheels . Doing 100's of cases at a time will HEAT wheels .
Those would NOT have been my choice of material for wheels and I now see they have switched too Aluminum ,as well as making a gate latch .
Which eliminates the bottom wheel well in the older timing design .

Ductility restoration not annealing in the true sense of the meaning , Helps restore neck and shoulder ductility too your brass and will
" DEFINITELY " enable several additional reloadings of brass cartridge cases . Brass as Copper " Work Hardens " upon firing and resizing and eventually becomes brittle . Losing neck tension capability and pressure containment ( Split necks shoulders ) .

Not putting enough heat is a waste of time period !. One needs to see faint orange color or measure Temp around 1K Deg. F. at neck or you're NOT doing it correctly . Idiots will say 400-500 ,700 deg. is all you need ,REALLY ??. So ask AMP why their induction process is around 1200 Deg. F. !.
Higher and QUICKER the temperature the ductility is restored is BETTER and not transferred down the case body . Look at cone flame temp from propane torch . You will see approximately 0.125" in front of the fine cone is the HOTTEST portion of the flame ,so that's where you want the case neck shoulder junction .

I shoot a LOT and have been reloading #58 years and NO I Don't know everything but am smart enough to consult expert metallurgist to confirm FACTS or be ridiculed unmercifully . I'm now on MY 34 Th. reloading of 1942-43 and 1968 M2 Ball .30 Cal. cases and have yet to lose a single case . Eventually as ALL brass cartridge cases stretch and thus will become thin near the rebated rim or rim and thus cause a case separation . When is what I'm attempting too find out ???.
Anyone who knows anything knows that's SIGNIFICANT ,especially seeing as they're fired out of 80+ year old Garands . I'm also up to #26 firings on 7.62X51mm 1953-68 cases out of Both M14's and AR 10 platform weapons and not a single case lost . Fyi ; ALL those reloads are within 1.0 gr. Max loads .

Please don't tell ME what brass can or can't do . MY cases started UGLY original once fired and left on Military range for #50 years outside and when I received them in buckets which again had been left outside for another #30 Years !. Photo 2 shows what they typically looked like and after 3.5Min. in the Ultrasonic bath .
Before making snide remarks how many of you received a Huge check from the letter reloading company for their ultrasonic cleaning solution patent ??? ;)
https://annealeez.com/about/faqs/
 

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Ep annealer here. fast shipping Easy set up and no problems so far. Would definitely buy again. And absolutely no issues single feeding brass. I'm not annealing 100's at a time. small batch shooting here.
I also believe that we live in a time where all of them are good quality just different upgrades. Kinda like scopes
 
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Whether one is inducing ductility too #20 cases or #2K cases the process remains the same regardless of unit used in processing .
I can reliably set up a couple hundred cases fire up the torch and let the annealeez run unattended ,while I do other mundane tasks .

I as others have specific different criteria in loading . Gas guns are Fun and quickly repeatable shooting which unfortunately requires MORE cartridges . As I've acquired knowledge as well as AGE over the decades MY goal has become simple . Prep as quickly as possible = MORE Range time .
When you're a younger man you really don't think about time but entering the second half of 7 decades MAKES you PAINFULLY aware of it .

Besides who really enjoys popping spent primers ,doing laundry on cases , restoring ductility annealing , sizing and trimming ?. NOT I !.

Now loading isn't so bad as I've dialed that as about as automated as possible given the equipment I have. So for Prep work I decided ultrasonic cleaning ,quick drying ,ductility restoration , resizing and trimming when necessary should be done as quickly as possible .

I like most other shooters have far too many safe queens and I didn't set out 60 years ago to collect safe queens and am now attempting to rectifying that mistake . In other words I'm exercising MY weapons regularly and that requires AMMO & TIME . It is what it is .

I replaced that junk torch head with a Bluefire pencil Propane/MAPP gas head and it not only heated just the cases quicker but didn't throw residual flame heat onto the wheels . A happy torch is a quiet tuned torch . A regulator off the bottle makes adjusting quick efficient and steady flame ,while conserving fuel .

IF I were to do several K at a time ,I'd switch to MY plumbing Micro Turbo Acetylene torch with it's smallest A2 tip and speed up cycling time .
 
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Have an ep2 inbound. Looking forward to it as I batch process over the course of the week. I’m not burning up several barrels a year so it’s output is about what a process at a time
You'll love it,you can change cartridge set up in about a minute.I made a mod to mine for holding the torch using a cheap dial indicator head.
 

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Read the other threads but the long and short is, if you arent using an AMP, you are wasting time and money. No need to argue with people who don't understand the process or the science behind annealing but that's the truth. Absolute temp/time control in conjunction with a repeatable proven method (Aztec) and then tested on the back end to proof it. Anything else is a waste.
 
Read the other threads but the long and short is, if you arent using an AMP, you are wasting time and money. No need to argue with people who don't understand the process or the science behind annealing but that's the truth. Absolute temp/time control in conjunction with a repeatable proven method (Aztec) and then tested on the back end to proof it. Anything else is a waste.

Sorry FALSE info flag !. That's like saying if one isn't shooting a 6mm PPC ,one isn't shooting . Total NONSENSE !.

Get a clue and quit trying to bullshit everyone with your ignorance !

All reloaders are simply restoring ductility too their brass cases and Flame or Induction method WORKS EQUALLY WELL !.



Annealing meaning different things too different metals .

Geroge Vander Voort defined annealing on cartridge brass long before AMP came along . With George's credentials ,I'd safely say it's DEFINITIVE !.
https://vacaero.com/information-res...rmation-and-annealing-of-cartridge-brass.html

Last two photos shows fully annealed cartridge brass and NO one is DOING that ,because of TEMP & TIME !
Figures 8c and d: Microstructure of wrought cartridge brass, Cu – 30% Zn, cold reduced 50% and annealed at 704°C (1300°F) – 30 min. producing a fully recrystallized, and grown, equiaxed FCC grain structure with annealing twins. Polarized light and sensitive tint.
OK so who among us is holding their cases in heat for 8 minutes or 30 minutes ??????????????

Figures 6 and b: Microstructure of wrought cartridge brass, Cu – 30% Zn, cold reduced 50%, annealed at 427°C (800°F): 4 minutes did not visibly affect the cold worked grain structure (note heavy slip lines); 8 minutes has produced the start of recrystallization. Tint etched with Klemm’s I (Originals at 100X, crossed polarized light (off crossed) plus sensitive tint).


Here's a quick easy way to get an education READ !.
https://vacaero.com/information-res...n-for-electron-backscattered-diffraction.html
 
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Sorry FALSE info flag !. That's like saying if one isn't shooting a 6mm PPC ,one isn't shooting . Total NONSENSE !.

Get a clue and quit trying to bullshit everyone with your ignorance !

All reloaders are simply restoring ductility too their brass cases and Flame or Induction method WORKS EQUALLY WELL !.



Annealing meaning different things too different metals .

Geroge Vander Voort defined annealing on cartridge brass long before AMP came along . With George's credentials ,I'd safely say it's DEFINITIVE !.
https://vacaero.com/information-res...rmation-and-annealing-of-cartridge-brass.html

Last two photos shows fully annealed cartridge brass and NO one is DOING that ,because of TEMP & TIME !
Figures 8c and d: Microstructure of wrought cartridge brass, Cu – 30% Zn, cold reduced 50% and annealed at 704°C (1300°F) – 30 min. producing a fully recrystallized, and grown, equiaxed FCC grain structure with annealing twins. Polarized light and sensitive tint.
Stop pretending like you are talking about shit you know.

The only way to ensure normalizing (annealing) to a standardized state is via testing. No other product on the market has already done that work for you, so you have the same consistency brass every time. It doesn't need exactly 100 Brinell, but as long as the brass is back close to its natural state and ALL of the batch is the same, you are getting the same effect (consistent neck tension while reducing work hardening that will result in split necks eventually).

Unless you can ensure the same amount of heat and time is applied to every piece ( Hint you cant with a torch and the short amount of time we anneal, since most annealing is done over minutes/hours) AND then you test the hardness to ensure they are all within the desired normalized range AND consistent case to case, you are pissing in the wind. ONE product has figured out how to do this, every time. It would cost more than an AMP for the tooling or cost of testing to ensure the same results/output.

Now you can lie to yourself and make you feel better about your shitty poor attempts at annealing. You can try to lie to others and spread your ignorance. But you aren't fooling anyone who understands how this all works.

I'm not getting into a long argument because honesty, you do not have the education or experience in the subject for it to matter.

Oh and I got an A in metallurgy, spent almost a year in a lab doing every type of test you can do with metal. What is your education on the subject?

Your ignorance is astounding. The reason no one is doing a full soak on brass cartridge is you do not want the whole case to be around 100 Brinell. You need the base to be hard. It also does not get work hardened the same way everytime you fire/size the same way the neck/shoulder does. eventually the primer pockets will loosen up but there is nothing you can do about. It would be a million times easier to put our brass in an oven and let it normalize over time, than to anneal each neck/shoulder. If it was that easy, we would be running electric ovens instead of an AMP.
 
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Stop pretending like you are talking about shit you know.

The only way to ensure normalizing (annealing) to a standardized state is via testing. No other product on the market has already done that work for you, so you have the same consistency brass every time. It doesn't need exactly 100 Brinell, but as long as the brass is back close to its natural state and ALL of the batch is the same, you are getting the same effect (consistent neck tension while reducing work hardening that will result in split necks eventually).

Unless you can ensure the same amount of heat and time is applied to every piece ( Hint you cant with a torch and the short amount of time we anneal, since most annealing is done over minutes/hours) AND then you test the hardness to ensure they are all within the desired normalized range AND consistent case to case, you are pissing in the wind. ONE product has figured out how to do this, every time. It would cost more than an AMP for the tooling or cost of testing to ensure the same results/output.

Now you can lie to yourself and make you feel better about your shitty poor attempts at annealing. You can try to lie to others and spread your ignorance. But you aren't fooling anyone who understands how this all works.

I'm not getting into a long argument because honesty, you do not have the education or experience in the subject for it to matter.

Oh and I got an A in metallurgy, spent almost a year in a lab doing every type of test you can do with metal. What is your education on the subject?

Your ignorance is astounding.

As predicted YOU are illiterate , Aka hopelessly lost within your world of BULLSHIT . You're on ignore :)
 
For Everyone's Knowledge the Metallurgical field isn't MY specialty or vocational field , however Chemistry is so a fundamental working knowledge I do have and have had for nearly 50 years . Being in the Aerospace industry for a number of decades as an R&D PhD. Chemist specializing in Organic polymer's ,has allowed Me some pretty specialized acquaintances as well as many Friends . Those persons specialize in various design , materials and verified documented tests of said . So this Isn't Me telling anybody anything ,one can Read for themselves and draw your own conclusions .

IF you wish to know something about the Man himself ,click this link : I believe you will find his credentials impeccable .
https://vacaero.com/information-res...er-voort/biography-george-f-vander-voort.html


From the experiments of Metallurgical expert ; George Vander Voorst . Simply click the link and anyone can see visually exactly what is happening . Also Note his pioneering experiments have been verified by Numerous PhD. Students around the world .

https://vacaero.com/information-res...rmation-and-annealing-of-cartridge-brass.html

Abstract


Copper and its alloys are among the most malleable metals and alloys in existence. Cartridge brass, Cu – 30% Zn, has been used for many years to produce cartridge cases for ammunition due to its superior cold forming characteristics. This article shows the microstructure and hardness of cartridge brass from the fully annealed to the heavily cold worked condition. Then, it illustrates the influence of annealing temperature and time on removing the effect of the cold work and returning the alloy to a very low hardness annealed structure.


Introduction


Cartridge brass, Cu – 30% Zn, is a single-phase Cu-based alloy where the addition of zinc increases the strength of copper by solid solution strengthening.
The maximum solubility of zinc in copper at ambient temperature is slightly above 30% Zn. Higher levels of Zn, for example, 40% Zn, produce two phased α-β brass which is less malleable than the single phase, α-Cu cartridge brass. Cartridge brass, as the name states, has been used for many years to make cartridges for bullets due to its excellent formability and good cold formed mechanical properties. As an example, Figure 1 shows the microstructure of the starting cup with an annealed α-Cu grain structure, exhibiting annealing twins, used to cold form cartridge cases. Figure 2 shows the firing pin end of a formed 338 caliber cartridge case revealing a heavily cold worked microstructure. Color etching is far more effective than black & white etching to reveal the complete grain structure and deformation. Comparisons of color vs. B&W etching will be presented later.


Experiment


Specimens of hot extruded and fully annealed cartridge brass were cold reduced 15, 30, 40, 50, 60 and 70% in thickness. Specimens were mounted and polished and etched using the commonly used B&W etchant of equal parts of ammonium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide (3% conc.) mixed fresh and used by swabbing. Figures 3 a and b, 3 e and f, and 3 i and j show B&W images of longitudinal planes from the annealed (Fig. 3 a) and the cold worked cartridge brass specimens (30, 40, 50, 60 and 70% cold reductions). Figures 3 c and d, 3 g and h, and 3 k and l show color images using Klemm’s III tint etch and polarized light for the cold worked specimens (15, 30, 40, 50, 60 and 70% cold reductions). These images reveal that the grains are becoming elongated with cold reduction, with increasing length/width ratio with increasing cold reduction, plus greater amounts of slip deformation. Figure 4 shows the increase in Vickers hardness (100 gf load) from 57.9 ± 4.8 HV in the starting fully annealed condition to 231.9 ± 7.9 HV after a 70% cold reduction in thickness, a fourfold increase in hardness.


Annealing experiments were conducted on a number of the cold worked specimens. Figures 5a and b show color etched images of the specimens cold reduced 50% and then annealed 30 minutes at 500 and 700°F. No difference in the microstructure is seen in the specimen held 30 minutes at 500°F while a very small amount of recrystallization is observed in the specimen held 30 minutes at 700°F.

Figures 6a and b show color images of 50% cold reduced specimens held for 4 and 8 minutes at 800°F while Figures 6c and d show 50% cold reduced specimens held 15 and 30 minutes at 800°F. No change is observed after 4 minutes at 800°F, while a minor amount of recrystallization has occurred after 8 minutes.

Holding specimens for 15 and 30 minutes at 800°F revealed partial recrystallization after 15 minutes and full recrystallization after 30 minutes.
The grain structure is relatively fine but is not uniform in its distribution.


Figures 7a and b illustrate the grain structure in color after 15 and 30 minutes at 900°F. The 15 minute hold produced a non-uniform grain structure while the 60 minute hold produced better results although the grain size distribution appears to be duplex.

Figures 8a and b show a B&W and a color image (Klemm’s I reagent) after annealing 30 minutes at 1300°F which produced a fully recrystallized, uniform grain size distribution but coarse grained (as in Figs. 1 and 3a). Figures 8c and d show the same specimen but color tint etched using Klemm’s III and Beraha’s PbS tint etchants. Both are excellent for use with cartridge brass. Tint etchants also reveal details about the presence, or absence, of crystallographic texture. We note that as the cartridge brass is cold reduced greater amounts the grain coloring becomes more monotone, while when the annealing temperature is increased resulting in fully recrystallized grains with increasing size, the coloring becomes more variable with a random distribution of the colors. A random dispersion of a broad range of colors indicates that we have a random crystallographic texture while a narrow color range suggests that we have a preferred texture.


Vickers indents, 100 at a 100 gf load, were made on the original hot extruded and fully mill-annealed starting material and on the hot extruded, annealed and 50% cold reduced specimen and for similar 50% CR specimens that were annealed for 30 minutes at 500, 700, 800, 900 and 1300°F. Note that the distribution curves for the 50% CR specimen and the 50% CR specimen held at 500°F for 30 minutes are essentially identical, which is not surprising based on the image in Figure 5a which shows no influence of annealing at 500°F on the microstructure. As the annealing temperature increased from 700 to 1300°F, the HV distribution curves become more peaked and the hardness decreases. The distribution curve for the starting fully annealed specimen is the lowest in hardness as 30 minutes at 1300°F yielded slightly greater hardness. Figure 10 plots the mean Vickers hardness for each of the 50% CR specimens from the initial non-annealed condition (plotted at ambient temperature) versus the 30 minute hold at each annealing temperature from 500 to 1300°F.


Conclusions


The experiment illustrates the extreme malleability of cartridge brass, Cu – 30% Zn, which has been used for many years to build cartridge cases for bullets. Cold working increases the hardness of the alloy dramatically; a 400% increase was obtained going from the fully annealed condition to a 70% reduction in thickness. The grains become thinner and more elongated with increased cold reduction – anisotropic in grain shape. Along with the increased strength, the cartridge brass remains ductile enough to provide good service performance.
The re-annealing experiments showed how recrystallization begins slowly, and with duplex appearing grain size distributions until the recrystallization temperature becomes quite high resulting in a coarse grained twinned structure with a uniform grain size distribution. The results also demonstrate the value of color tint etchants for revealing the microstructure fully and for revealing preferred versus random crystallographic textures.
 
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This guys gona blow a gasket when he learns every custom brass maker specs their own alloys and they are not the same. I was talking with owner of alpha at match last year about their trouble sourcing their custom alloy that they use.

Why is lapua brass harder than hornady? Lapua is annealed as the last step and all things being equal, should be softer....but it's not. Cartridge brass is a term of ignorance. There is no standard, especially among custom brass manufactures

This is what happens when people just regurgitate some shit someone else said without even understanding the nuance and details.
 
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That confidence spike with no added compitance could also be labeled "beleived some marketing bullshit." I mean just really bought it hook line and sinker despite the fact they can't show or detect any diffrence themselves.
 
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That confidence spike with no added compitance could also be labeled "beleived some marketing bullshit." I mean just really bought it hook line and sinker despite the fact they can't show or detect any diffrence themselves.


Video proof it does work.

Difference is down range. Reduced SD/ES by controlling neck tension. Ive seen it, buddies who run AMP have seen it, people actually paying attention see it. If it didn't work, we would sell the fucker and not waste our time.
 


Video proof it does work.

Difference is down range. Reduced SD/ES by controlling neck tension. Ive seen it, buddies who run AMP have seen it, people actually paying attention see it. If it didn't work, we would sell the fucker and not waste our time.

So aggs have shrunk and records books have been rewritten in accuracey shooting with the introduction of the amp annealer. Correct? 🤣🤣🤣 No you say. 😏
 
Ha Ha Ha ; Spec their own ?? what a Joke ,perhaps for the uniformed they believe that !.
Factual ; CS26000 is a WELL KNOWN Cartridge grade Brass ,what one does with it after they receive theirs is another matter altogether . Again I simply provide You with established FACTS NO BS ,what You chose to do or believe is beyond MY control or concern . Too damn many people put out internet crap ,so I research 98% of what I post ,before shooting off my mouth .

Please Note look on any supplier and ASTM Spec C26000 is Ordnance Brass specs .

Copper/Zinc alloy aka Cartridge brass stock ; Unlike some uniformed believe it's NOT rocket science !.

https://www.concast.com/drawn-hardness-machinability.php

Note C26000 specs Ammunition brass composition

https://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=6341
https://www.farmerscopper.com/cartridge-brass-260-c260-c26000.html

https://www.concast.com/c26000.php

C26000​


Product description: Cartridge brass 70%
Tempers: H01 quarter hard, H02 half hard, H04 hard
Solids: 3/8" to 2 1/2" O.D.
Hex: 3/8" to 2" O.D.
Standard lengths: 144"
Ordnance ammunition, ammunition cartridge cases, mechanical housings for lighters, shells (mechanical housings for ammunition)



C26000 ASTM B927
B927M
SAEJ461
J463 ; specs
70/30 cartridge brass ; Other can contain traces of Silicon , Nickel and various element contaminants in low %'s .




Chemical Composition​

The chemical composition of UNS C26000 cartridge brass alloys is outlined in the following table.

Element Content (%)
Cu 68.5-71.5
Fe 0.050
Pb 0.070
Other 0.15
Zn 28.5
 
So you think every brass manufacture is using the same alloy? LAPUA and hornady using same raw brass?

R
O
F
L

Also, you post like an illiterate. Shitty copy amd paste in 14 different fonts that are unreadable. For a claimed PhD, you type like a fucking retard.
 
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Back in the 80's-90's Norma sourced CS26000 brass plates from Nordic Brass Gusum and it's parent company Skultuna brass foundry . Established in 1607 I believe . They now may very well import from Canada Austria Germany ? , I'm No longer privileged to the info , as My Friend retired 2.5 years ago as their head production executive . I last saw and spoke with him in person during an opening of Norma USA Pooler,Georgia and that's been awhile back . He was instrumental in bring that enterprise about .
 
I don’t know why this is so hard to figure out. Surely someone has done some unbiased testing on this and translated it to English so that a second grader can understand it?

I am far too dumb to understand all this science; I shoot a nail gun for a living.
I just want to know if flame annealing will make my brass last more firings without the necks cracking.

It seems like the only people saying you have to buy an AMP are

1) the people selling an AMP
2) the people who already bought an AMP

That’s a bit of a red flag to my uneducated little brain….but maybe they are right.

Ok you PHDs and people who took a college class about metal can go back to your internet fight now.
 
I just want to know if flame annealing will make my brass last more firings without the necks cracking.
If your necks are cracking often without annealing, then answer is yes. If your primer pockets get loose before the necks cracks, then answer is no.

Flame anneal works as long as you get it hot enough. Turn off the light, heat neck/shoulder until case mouth turns dull orange, done. No need for Tempilaq.

Simple.
 
I don’t know why this is so hard to figure out. Surely someone has done some unbiased testing on this and translated it to English so that a second grader can understand it?

I am far too dumb to understand all this science; I shoot a nail gun for a living.
I just want to know if flame annealing will make my brass last more firings without the necks cracking.

It seems like the only people saying you have to buy an AMP are

1) the people selling an AMP
2) the people who already bought an AMP

That’s a bit of a red flag to my uneducated little brain….but maybe they are right.

Ok you PHDs and people who took a college class about metal can go back to your internet fight now.
Because you dont see the benefits until you use one. Besides how easy/fast it is to use, my SD and ES tightened up considerably once I got neck tension under control. I think I am around firing 7 or 8 of my alpha GT brass and its just keeps going and going and shoots light out in every barrel.

These machines get sold very rarely. Most of the people I know selling theirs, moved to just buying custom loaded ammo (pro shooters) so they sold off their reloading setups. I don't know one person (and I know dozens with an AMP) who does not sing its praise. This is incredibly telling.

Everyone thought the autotrickler was a waste of money 5-6 years ago. Now EVERYONE is running some sort of high end trickler with a scientific scale down to .02. People though bushing dies were a waste of money, until they started seeing how they can control neck tension and not overwork their brass, making split case necks almost a thing of the past. Annealing is also a big help with this.

There is alot of ignorance and people living in the past. There is certainly bullshit products out there that claim the world and do nothing (structured barrels for example, or modbb steel) better than the legacy products, but the AMP is legit. The only question is, can you afford one or not? If so, its worth it.
 
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If your necks are cracking often without annealing, then answer is yes. If your primer pockets get loose before the necks cracks, then answer is no.

Flame anneal works as long as you get it hot enough. Turn off the light, heat neck/shoulder until case mouth turns dull orange, done. No need for Tempilaq.

Simple.
This is such bullshit its not even funny (flame annealing part). If you actually tested your brass you would see numbers all over the fucking place with zero consistency. Not to mention you have no idea if you are actually returning the brass to its rested state. Its posts like these that do nothing but muddy the waters and keep people from actually learning and advancing.
 
This is such bullshit its not even funny (flame annealing part). If you actually tested your brass you would see numbers all over the fucking place with zero consistency. Not to mention you have no idea if you are actually returning the brass to its rested state. Its posts like these that do nothing but muddy the waters and keep people from actually learning and advancing.

🙄 Look, I know you're an AMP fanboy, but dude just wants to know if annealing will help him/her with case neck cracking. If they wanted PhD level knowledge on metallurgy, they'd go take a college course. Don't make it more complicated than needed.

Below, straight up from AMP themselves (the makers of your god tier annealer), if you're looking for a low cost annealer, they recommend a gas flame based option.

https://www.ampannealing.com/articles/52/salt-bath-annealing--does-it-work-/
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