Rifle Scopes LPVO Mounting Question...

[Bounty]

Mounting a Vortex Razor Gen II-E 1-6x in a Badger Ordnance Condition One 1.70" mount onto an AR15. Are there any special considerations when determining eye relief versus the standard mounting process for a high magnification scope on a bolt gun? The rifle will be fired from a standing, unsupported position or kneeling/sitting/non-standard positions far more often than prone. My goal is to maximize the clarity, eye box forgiveness, and "1x-ness" at the lowest magnification to attain as close to red dot/holographic performance as possible.

Any advice or tips appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Capt_Right]

I ran this scope for a while on my 3 gun rifle and it is excellent. It has one of the longest eye reliefs of all the LPVOs at 101mm and I found the best position for it was as far forward as the mount would allow it. When I did this I never had issues with scope shadow in any position. This does however depend somewhat on body type and preference.

 

[Ironman8]

Where the mount sits on the gun and where the scope sits in the mount will depend on what position you run your stock, body type, height, etc. So just leave everything somewhat loose to start, and set your eye relief while shouldering the rifle with the scope evenly in the mount and move the mount forward/back before you push the scope around in the mount. I don’t like to clamp rings too close to the turrets if I can help it. Also consider that you may crane your neck forward a little when mounting the gun quick to shoot at speed like with a red dot. I believe Kyle Defoor recommends to set the scope up with a slight scope shadow when relaxed and standing so that when you really get on the gun (or when you go prone) your head will actually be a little forward and right in the sweet spot of eye relief. That said, the Razor eye relief is so generous, you may not need to worry about that, so play with it and see what works.

As far as “maximizing 1X-ness”, for a LPVO with 1x as the bottom end, the way I do it is set the diopter so that I get as “flat” or true 1x of an image as possible when looking at different objects at 10ish yards away, as opposed to setting the diopter for maximum reticle clarity at max power. I like to look at a fence line and get the top edge of it to line up going through the FOV or doing ready ups in the house while looking at different objects and seeing if they get magnified (or shrink) when the scope comes in field of view. With my NX8, that also gave me a pretty clear picture & reticle, but you can probably tweak it from there slightly if it looks a little blurry to you. You’ll likely have an easier time with this on the Razor compared to my NX8.

Also, like with a high power scope, not staring at the reticle is an important point. Once I get a true 1x, I’ll tweak it if need be and get a quick sight picture to gauge the reticle clarity. This is all done on 1x btw. You can also try going to the top end mag and double checking reticle clarity there, but IMO 1x sight picture is more important with these scopes if they’re being used as intended.

Hope that helps and makes sense, if not I can clarify if needed.

 

[308pirate]

Where the mount sits on the gun and where the scope sits in the mount will depend on what position you run your stock, body type, height, etc. So just leave everything somewhat loose to start, and set your eye relief while shouldering the rifle with the scope evenly in the mount and move the mount forward/back before you push the scope around in the mount. I don’t like to clamp rings too close to the turrets if I can help it. Also consider that you may crane your neck forward a little when mounting the gun quick to shoot at speed like with a red dot. I believe Kyle Defoor recommends to set the scope up with a slight scope shadow when relaxed and standing so that when you really get on the gun (or when you go prone) your head will actually be a little forward and right in the sweet spot of eye relief. That said, the Razor eye relief is so generous, you may not need to worry about that, so play with it and see what works.

As far as “maximizing 1X-ness”, for a LPVO with 1x as the bottom end, the way I do it is set the diopter so that I get as “flat” or true 1x of an image as possible when looking at different objects at 10ish yards away, as opposed to setting the diopter for maximum reticle clarity at max power. I like to look at a fence line and get the top edge of it to line up going through the FOV or doing ready ups in the house while looking at different objects and seeing if they get magnified (or shrink) when the scope comes in field of view. With my NX8, that also gave me a pretty clear picture & reticle, but you can probably tweak it from there slightly if it looks a little blurry to you. You’ll likely have an easier time with this on the Razor compared to my NX8.

Also, like with a high power scope, not staring at the reticle is an important point. Once I get a true 1x, I’ll tweak it if need be and get a quick sight picture to gauge the reticle clarity. This is all done on 1x btw. You can also try going to the top end mag and double checking reticle clarity there, but IMO 1x sight picture is more important with these scopes if they’re being used as intended.

Hope that helps and makes sense, if not I can clarify if needed.

Excellent advice. Can't be said any better.