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M2008 Barrel Swap Videos/Instructions?
- Thread starter Onemoretime
- Start date
No one? Here's a new Google Search Engine designed to search THIS site. Still no help as it seems the old threads no longer exist, in this site at least.
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=001874066227474777122:myqcyemnqwa&hl=en
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=001874066227474777122:myqcyemnqwa&hl=en
The only thing I have found you need is...
1. An action wrench
2. Torque wrench
3. Barrel clamp
4. Headspace gauges
The big variable here is, if you already have a multitude of barrels, is what torque was headspace verified at?
If you have a .308 Win barrel & .260 Rem barrel, they will indicate off of the same gauge, BUT if gunsmith A torques his barrels to 50 ft-lbs to verify headspace on your .308Win and gunsmith B torques his barrels to 50 ft-lbs to verify headspace on your .260Rem, you may have trouble in the field trying to run one torque setting on ALL your barrels with factory ammo.
Solution - 1. Handload everything & keep your headspace in correlation to a constant torque on all of your barrels.
2. Contact your gunsmiths & mark all your barrels with the torque they were verified at.
As far as how you swap barrels/calibers on the fly?
(You can take the action out of the stock if you would like...)
1. Clamp barrel into barrel clamp
2. Insert action wrench and break action lose from barrel
3. Take rifle out of clamp & put buttstock on deck with muzzle straight up
4. Remove barrel
5. Apply Neverseize (or similar) to the shank of barrel to be installed
6. With rifle straight up, start and get new barrel hand tight
7. Clamp in barrel clamp
8. Apply X torque
9. Check headspace
10. Swab barrel/change bolts/magazines if needed
11. Go shoot
PM me if you have questions on anything specific.
1. An action wrench
2. Torque wrench
3. Barrel clamp
4. Headspace gauges
The big variable here is, if you already have a multitude of barrels, is what torque was headspace verified at?
If you have a .308 Win barrel & .260 Rem barrel, they will indicate off of the same gauge, BUT if gunsmith A torques his barrels to 50 ft-lbs to verify headspace on your .308Win and gunsmith B torques his barrels to 50 ft-lbs to verify headspace on your .260Rem, you may have trouble in the field trying to run one torque setting on ALL your barrels with factory ammo.
Solution - 1. Handload everything & keep your headspace in correlation to a constant torque on all of your barrels.
2. Contact your gunsmiths & mark all your barrels with the torque they were verified at.
As far as how you swap barrels/calibers on the fly?
(You can take the action out of the stock if you would like...)
1. Clamp barrel into barrel clamp
2. Insert action wrench and break action lose from barrel
3. Take rifle out of clamp & put buttstock on deck with muzzle straight up
4. Remove barrel
5. Apply Neverseize (or similar) to the shank of barrel to be installed
6. With rifle straight up, start and get new barrel hand tight
7. Clamp in barrel clamp
8. Apply X torque
9. Check headspace
10. Swab barrel/change bolts/magazines if needed
11. Go shoot
PM me if you have questions on anything specific.
Thanks dude... disregard my last PM where I essentially asked you the same question.
I have Go/NoGo's from PTG for .308/.260 and 6.5x47/6x47 Lapua.
Can I just tighten to 50ft-lbs and check headspace if it's too loose tighten more and too tight loosen more?
I need to get a barrel vise.
I have Go/NoGo's from PTG for .308/.260 and 6.5x47/6x47 Lapua.
Can I just tighten to 50ft-lbs and check headspace if it's too loose tighten more and too tight loosen more?
I need to get a barrel vise.
Bingo. On a properly-machined barrel and receiver, there is just very little angular change within any reasonable range of torque. Even a difference of 5 degrees is only ~0.0009", and I seriously doubt that a good squarely-shouldered barrel is going to move anywhere near that much after it "snaps" into place. I'll have to mark one and measure it the next time I torque a barrel.
We're not torquing head bolts or rod bolts on a highly-stressed engine, folks - this ain't anything complicated.
If you guys insist, I wont argue.
Any chamber you are shooting fire formed, neck sized brass in though... You try to cram an extra thou of cartridge body into and your asking for ass-pain.
Err on the side of caution, especially when it's so easy.
Any chamber you are shooting fire formed, neck sized brass in though... You try to cram an extra thou of cartridge body into and your asking for ass-pain.
Err on the side of caution, especially when it's so easy.
