You get only once to machine the receiver correctly for the rail . If you fuck it up there is no way to fix it. I am able to shoot it but it is now an abortion of a rifle that i would not give to my worst enemy.
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Join the contest SubscribeDo yourself a favor and send your rifle to someone like GAP if you want it done right. I learned the hard way and had my Receiver , 30 MOA double lugged USMC rail, Schneider barrel totally butchered by a Gunsmith who claimed he worked at PWS and assured me he had done this work before and had all the correct USMC specs programmed into his CNC machine.
PM me if you want the name of this butcher since i don't want to mention him here on this site for the risk of being banned.
I love the rifles and seeing the soldiers legs/boots in the picture...
Pusher, we call that creature a Marine
As far as your bolt question...
PTG Bolts are the norm. Per the build standard, the bolt gets chucked up in a fixture and the lugs get faced (if they have enough meat on them, there's a minimum dimension) as well as the bolt face.
Lugs get lapped. The cocking cam gets some massaging and the firing pin assy gets worked over as well.
Is that barrel channel straight or does it follow the bbl contour?
I must say it is most interesting, informative and educational how-to topic on M40x build. Accompanied with right specs, inc contour, chamber etc it's deserve sticky. I dreamed about such info when I built mine, did research for veeery long time.
E-mail Ross at [email protected] and ask for an M40 Accessory Rail, P/N A-004/M40. About a year ago, you could buy them for $250 including shipping.
Just curious, how does one go about getting these guys to build you/me a rifle? "The rifle will be built at PWS in Quantico and since it will be built by the dedicated marines that build these fine weapons for the USMC..."
Pusher, we call that creature a Marine
As far as your bolt question...
PTG Bolts are the norm. Per the build standard, the bolt gets chucked up in a fixture and the lugs get faced (if they have enough meat on them, there's a minimum dimension) as well as the bolt face.
Lugs get lapped. The cocking cam gets some massaging and the firing pin assy gets worked over as well.
Interesting that they bed a couple of inches in front of the lug. A lot of guys stop right at the lug these days for a full float from the lug forward.
Do yourself a favor and send your rifle to someone like GAP if you want it done right. I learned the hard way and had my Receiver , 30 MOA double lugged USMC rail, Schneider barrel totally butchered by a Gunsmith who claimed he worked at PWS and assured me he had done this work before and had all the correct USMC specs programmed into his CNC machine.
PM me if you want the name of this butcher since i don't want to mention him here on this site for the risk of being banned.
Seriously, was it not blatantly obvious to you that the builder of the rifle is posting in this thread and actually it right or did you just swoop in and post without reading?
Seriously, was it not blatantly obvious to you that the builder of the rifle is posting in this thread and actually it right or did you just swoop in and post without reading?
That post was actually in response to another member that stated they were doing to have a friend build them a rifle and was not meant for me or the builder of my rifle, so it's all good.
Gee, Looks like we figured out who fucked up Maguas build...
Interesting that they bed a couple of inches in front of the lug. A lot of guys stop right at the lug these days for a full float from the lug forward.
The barrel pad is to harden the rifle for true field use. There's a lot of mass hanging off the end of an action with a fully free floated barrel, and some say the receiver can actually flex under the strain of a heavy barrel.
As for accuracy, conventional wisdom says no pad is better, but I've seen barrels with pads that shoot better than half minute of angle.
No .. HE actually swooped in and posted without reading. LOL