Magneto Speed Sporter

[pmclaine]

Not having a chrono for my reloads has been the big hole in my reloading process.

Saw a Sporter version Magneto Speed in the PX and as it was at a good price I decided to jump on it without having done any real research.

Thinking Perfect is the enemy of the good I decided why continue to dick around loading blind while I save for that LabRadar when I can have a basic tool now to get some data.

Most of my barrels are MTU/M40 contour Im hoping the bayonet strap will accomodate those diameters.

Assuming I can attach the thing will the slimmed down features provide me with strings, ES and etc for loading simple stuff like .308 bolt guns, an AR15/10, maybe a Springfield 03 or Garand even?

 

[KZP]

It will work fine. Just keep in mind that your POI will shift and potentially degrade the accuracy because it is hanging off your barrel. Make sure to load enough for accuracy and velocity tests.

 

[mdmp5]

I shot my first record 300 yd 5 rd group with a magnetospeed attached. It’s not guaranteed to wreck accuracy

 

[KZP]

I shot my first record 300 yd 5 rd group with a magnetospeed attached. It’s not guaranteed to wreck accuracy

Yep. Some days I seem to have only a POI shift, others my accuracy is ruined. I gave up and just take it off when doing accuracy tests now.

 

[pmclaine]

Im hoping to just get some assurance in velocities in that Im not "overloading".

I primarily shoot paper at short distances through fact of location not by choice.

I dont require maximum velocities and would rather have an accurate mild load to save wear and tear on my guns.

Hoping to get an idea of accuracy while using it but intend to make determination of where I want to proceed based on SD.

Like most everyone else if I could produce FGMM Id be all set.

Right now I load under the well researched FGMM loads in 168/175 and I get indications of pressure with my reloads that I dont get with FGMM.

Checking my Dillon balance with RCBS check weights indicates the scale is in spec.

Sizing my brass I use Hornady and RCBS headspace gauges to check quality of my sizing.

I pull and measure to trickle each rifle load in .308 and 30-06 (AR gets to load progressive as the powders are Dillon friendly).

Like I said just filling a hole in my process and hoping this will do some math for me and display the important vitals on screen for a 5 or 10 shot string.

 

[KZP]

One more note, make sure you get it level with your barrel. I had a few readings of 4300 FPS when it was slightly canted away from the muzzle due to overlapping my muzzle brake. I shimmed it with folded paper and it was good to go. You may also need to mess with the sensitivity settings to get a consistent reading.

 

[spife7980]

If an mtu is your biggest it should work just fine.

My rem varmint contours shift about 1.5” at 100, a pencil sporter barrel might shift enough to miss a pie plate. No telling until you do it. But when Im shooting the magneatospeed speed I recognize that beyond the muzzle any impacts are compromised, it’s purely to record velocity.

 

[Deleted member 113831]

I have been using the sporter version for a couple of years now. The only complaint I have, is the quality of the plastic housing on the display unit. It broke the first time out to the range. It is now held together with rubber bands.

The bayonet and electronics have proven to be very accurate and durable. I probably have 4,000 rounds through mine and it has only failed to pick up a handful of shots. I mostly use the HIGH 1 setting. The HIGH 2 is needed for 22LR.

If the bayonet is too loose, or not reasonably level you can get some weird readings, but it has not been a real issue. I have used it on barrels from #2 sporter to 1.35" straight tube. For the 1.35" straight, I had to take the rubber insert out and just snug it up to the plastic cradle underneath.

The strap is a little cheesy, but it hasn't broken yet. I keep a few zip ties in the case should it ever break. The design is such that you can use just about anything to secure it to the end of the barrel if the need should arise.

It affects POI and group size very inconsistently, some rifles are worse than others, and some loads worse than others. I just use it to find my working pressure range, then find my load within that range without it on. When I settle on a load, I use it again to get a solid velocity.

 

[Random_Scrub]

Same as above. Use it to get the velocity and then take it off for accuracy tests. Having s chrono has definitely helped me with developing loads.

 

[LG65CM]

Skookum, I had the same thing happen to me. A month later, I picked it up to use it and heard a rattle. Took the rubber bands off, and opened it up, removed the battery and found a very tiny screw that had come undone. Found the screw's home and that fixed it. No more need for the rubber bands. Check and see if you have two screws , I think there are only two, on the inside and both in place. lg

 

[MtnCreek]

The manufacturer will fix/replace the little computer part. I think it was $35 to replace my old original computer. It was several years old.

 

[Deleted member 113831]

Skookum, I had the same thing happen to me. A month later, I picked it up to use it and heard a rattle. Took the rubber bands off, and opened it up, removed the battery and found a very tiny screw that had come undone. Found the screw's home and that fixed it. No more need for the rubber bands. Check and see if you have two screws , I think there are only two, on the inside and both in place. lg

That is exactly what happened to me, but it happened at the range. I never found the screw.

 

[LG65CM]

Ouch! Mine happened upon first opening it to put in a battery. I could not see what actually happened , only that when I got the battery in it would not close like it should have. So used the 'ole rubber band trick'. I bought my MS last fall, and only discovered the missing screw a week or two ago. I do not know where a person could find that sized screw. The company, I'm sure. Maybe a Radio Shack or electronics store would have one. Some computer hardware I've worked with had pretty small screws like these. Good luck to you in finding one. Great little chrono.

 

[Old Dude]

Is there any reason I would need one of these to replace my old Chrony. It just gives velocity
but it works every time.

 

[MtnCreek]

I suppose that depends on what you're currently using and how well it works. After getting a magnetospeed, I only use my old CED Millennium for pistols. The magneto is a lot easier to set up, reads much, much better, doesn't require a tripod and doesn't get blown around in the wind. It was a solid upgrade for me.

 

[b6graham]

light/shadows dont matter either. don't need to go down range to set it up

 

[KZP]

... don't need to go down range to set it up

And as is the case at part of my local rifle range, you are shooting off a raised deck with an always hot firing line.

 

[Dave62677]

my speeder just die after the warranty period. i use it under 700 rounds. Bought it brand new at Midwayusa 2 years ago. it was never abused except my 338lm load development

 

[pmclaine]

My Sporter arrives tomorrow.

I load for 4 .308 rifles and it's kind of a pain having individual ammo cans for each.

All are with in a grain or so of each other.

I intend to get a baseline for FGMM in 168 and 175 fired through one of my rifles than try a load to that specific velocity and try it in all my rifles as FGMM fires well in all my guns.

This is blame ammo. When I take a class or want assurance I use factory FGMM.

What do you think I should choose regards the rifle based on barrel length?

My most accurate gun is a 21" MTU Krueger. I have a 25" M40 Schneider. A 26 inch Remington Varmint and lastly a 16 inch chrome lined LMT.

I fully realize I'm better loading for each individually but if I want to try for vanilla which barrel would be best to get baseline on?

Does it really matter?

If my 21 inch gun gives me 2550 for FGMM and I make a round for 2550 than whatever differences based on barrel length would be equal across the board?

 

[pmclaine]

PS.....

I know what I'm saying I want to do is like looking for El Dorado's gold.

It won't happen each barrel will shoot better with its own load. Possibly even better than FGMM.

Still I can hope.

 

[MtnCreek]

I’d load a rd ea for each bolt rifle from mild to what you know is around max. Exclude the auto loader. Look for flatish velocities among the same charges and work on refining the load for the best shooter from there. If the others shoot well vs your base line of fgmm, you’ve got you’re load. All this assumes similar head clearance and similar jump or jumps that somehow work well between the rifles. I’d want to know how that shot in the lmt, but would probably load something different in different brass for that.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

I use the other rubber piece on top of the barrel to get enough grip to keep it anchored in place. A problem with smooth barrels for me.

 

[LG65CM]

Great idea Culpeper. When I use my MSS I have to stop every 10 rds or so to make sure my bayonet is still snugged up tight. Thanx, lg

 

[pmclaine]

Super easy to run, even I could do it....

I did get some forward movement even using the second rubber to sandwich the barrel. How much will that effect readings if at all?

I probably pushed it back once per string when it got to within a .25 inch or so of the barrel end.

POI was pretty good with the 168 FGMM and my 100 yard zero

175 FGMMs I decided to actually aim at some other than the same hole...

Data

Kind of surprised by the SD numbers not being the single digits I thought good ammo had to be.

Tomorrow Im shooting a similar rifle to compare a clone 168 FGMM load I made with the real thing.

Ive never measured the SD/ES on any of my rounds in some 6 or so years of reloading. I dont think it will be stellar but we will see.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

Looks good for FGMM. As for mounting on the barrel, make sure the bottom bolt is sufficiently loose before clinching down with the strap then hand tighten the bottom real good. I still check the blade every shot too.

 

[pmclaine]

First time testing my reloads with QC that went beyond just measuring...

Rifle....

168 FGMM at 200 yards...

My IMR 4064 at 42.6 grains, Nosler 168 CC, WLRP, 2X Fired WCC 13 cases....

Data....

Have to work on that SD 20/ES 62 numbers.

I trim/size using a Dillon Rapid Trim on an S1050 and I think my necks are real tight. I bought a 21st Century Turning Mandel and will try to uniform the necks to see if that will help some.

Checking my bullet seat compared to the FGMM 168s there is a big difference in jump with the ogive on the FGMM being some thousandths shorter than my ammo.

Liking the Magnetospeed. I had to take a lengthy break in the middle of the ammo string shooting my reloads as another club member had a bunch of questions and wanted to show me his girlfriends new Anaconda - nice pistol, nice people, maybe I talked them into a Magnetospeed.

 

[CUBUFF89]

I see from your photos that you're positioning the clamp very close to the muzzle. In the instructions they actually have a spec for how far back it should be set. If I recall, it's somewhere around 2". Anyway, being so close you're setting yourself up for some forward slippage and possible damage to the bayonet.
I should know it nearly happened to me today. I now make a quick visual check before each shot.

 

[wilsoncs3980]

Seems it would be easy to make an adapter to mount that to your stock pretty easily.

 

[Srikaleak]

This may be a little off track but can a magnetospeed be used with a pistol?

 

[DrewC]

Yes but you need to have the V3 bayonet and the rail adapter.

 

[pmclaine]

I see from your photos that you're positioning the clamp very close to the muzzle. In the instructions they actually have a spec for how far back it should be set. If I recall, it's somewhere around 2". Anyway, being so close you're setting yourself up for some forward slippage and possible damage to the bayonet.
I should know it nearly happened to me today. I now make a quick visual check before each shot.

Ill check it out but instructions seem to show the muzzle having clearance into the "bow" but not off in the middle of the "bow".

I probably get 3/4 to 1 inch of barrel into the "bow" or past any plastic on the back end of the bayonet.

Ill be shooting this afternoon and will double check the set up.

 

[pmclaine]

This may be a little off track but can a magnetospeed be used with a pistol?

Saw a V3 in the PX yesterday.

 

[squib]

Is there any reason I would need one of these to replace my old Chrony. It just gives velocity
but it works every time.

You can't beat the convenience of the unit in the field. I have a CED millenium that I use for load development. What a pita to set up with the IR screens. I will be using both tomorow to compare MV readings and fill in my mv/temp table since its going to 100 degrees.

 

[CUBUFF89]

MS is so much more convenient. I have used my Oehler for years but the MS is so small it's easy to travel with. I would have liked to be able to check velocity on a prairie dog trip and would certainly take it to a match. Not so much with the Oehler.

Even after only a few uses I consider it a win.

 

[pmclaine]

MS is so much more convenient. I have used my Oehler for years but the MS is so small it's easy to travel with. I would have liked to be able to check velocity on a prairie dog trip and would certainly take it to a match. Not so much with the Oehler.

Even after only a few uses I consider it a win.

Im in your camp.

I shoot ranges that often have other shooters.

The prospect of setting up gear ten yards down range had no appeal to me.

I lusted for a LabRadar and have put off buying one as other things came along and sucked up the big expense.

Seeing the Sporter at an affordable price has been worth every penny. Currently does everything I could ask of it and in smaller footprint than the V3.

 

[pmclaine]

Still having fun.

Shot some more of my reloads today and I was pleased to see the numbers were not that bad.

Hits on target sucked and I know the factor for that was the shooter but heat (91 plus), hot rounds, a "thinner" profile barrel and the magnetospeed may have had an effect.

I zeroed the scope on this rifle with these 42.1 reloads and it was about MOA. Today the 168s were going 2 inches high and the 175s were just about dead zero. The reticle is a mil dot and I held about .6 on my reloads. The 175 I held the bottom of the 1 inch circle.

Rifle...

Bayonet attachment, just noticed I should have threaded the strap back over the barrel into the keeper....

Data.....

168 FGMM

42.1 4064 under 168 Nosler CC

175 FGMM

 

[Bailey692006]

I use mine after I find a load I’m happy with to gather mv data. I found through trial and a lot of error that even with a heavy 18.5 in .308, the bayonet still affects harmonics. Poi and grouping charnge randomly.

 

[pmclaine]

I thought I was going to be prepping a shit ton of brass tonight in hopes of changing over to the loading tool head and carrying on with production but an overtime is likely to interfere.

OT is what pays for reloading though so that sword cuts both ways.

Unsure how to proceed and integrate the Magnetospeed in the best possible way.

I already have "pet" loads that I arrived at through group size.

I have tweaked my reloading process slightly sizing my brass a little bit less to SAAMI spec or -.001 from SAAMI spec. I note that FGMM is usually -.001-.002 from SAAMI using an RCBS Headspace Mic. My brass was just tighter than FGMM at -.003--.005 from SAAMI.

I also added a 21st Century neck Mandrel to produce a constant -.002 tension on the seated round. I think this will have a dramatic effect as the Dillon trim die I suspect of creating too much neck tension.

Im not going to prep size brass to an individual rifle but I will drop powder specific to each of my four rifles.

I guess with as much stuff as I have changed I will start my reload process from the beginning and disregard what was my pet load.

Ill probably start low at 39 grains than proceed up to 43 grains which is .4 above my current high load. Each load will be .3 grains higher than before.

Powder is IMR 4064 and projos are 168/175 SMK. Primers WLRP.

Best groups go on the Magnetospeed to check SD.

I wonder if I should run the Magnetospeed on the first round of firings and base further investigation of my loads on which provides the best SD, i.e. disregard the group size and any possible Magnetospeed POI shift just base future testing on best SD and dont use the Magnetospeed when doing that?

So which comes first the chicken or the egg?

Is it better to first determine best SD than check group size or determine best group size and check the SD to see if the load is worth further testing?