Is there any rule of thumb to suggest what magnification setting to use, example shooting on a 300 meter range using a 4-14x50. Use the setting that is most optimal for limiting movemenr but still have a good view of the target, or just go maximium magnification and hold steady? Or do it he right way?
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Magnification vs distance
- Thread starter greg1147
- Start date
I don't know how one could come up with such rule of thumb. The particulars of every situation are different and they all play in what magnification would work best.
Right off the top of my head things like visual acuity, amount of sunlight, angle of illumination, target size, amount of mirage, and steadiness of your hold all come into play. I'm sure I've missed some others.
Right off the top of my head things like visual acuity, amount of sunlight, angle of illumination, target size, amount of mirage, and steadiness of your hold all come into play. I'm sure I've missed some others.
I agree. 10x up to 1000 yards. I don't understand the need for anything over 20x. Are you regularly shooting 2000yards?
A few variables to consider:
-Target size
-Color of target/background
-target moving?
-Type of position you are in
-shooting for groups or just an impact?
Shooting a big chunk of steel (20x40) at 1100-1200 meters is fairly simple at 10x when there is good contrast between the target and background. The more my position is "wobbly," the less magnification I normally run.
If the target is hard to see, or back in the shade, I run more magnification. White painted steel on snow is really tough to see in mediocre light.
If I am shooting for groups, I try to pick a small, precise aiming point, and stay in the upper end of magnifications to ensure I am as consistent as possible.
Sometimes at 400 you might need 8x, or even more. Sometimes at 1 mile you might only want 17x. I like using 15+ for checking zero, and find the higher magnification is useful when you are attempting to range targets with a reticle.
-Target size
-Color of target/background
-target moving?
-Type of position you are in
-shooting for groups or just an impact?
Shooting a big chunk of steel (20x40) at 1100-1200 meters is fairly simple at 10x when there is good contrast between the target and background. The more my position is "wobbly," the less magnification I normally run.
If the target is hard to see, or back in the shade, I run more magnification. White painted steel on snow is really tough to see in mediocre light.
If I am shooting for groups, I try to pick a small, precise aiming point, and stay in the upper end of magnifications to ensure I am as consistent as possible.
Sometimes at 400 you might need 8x, or even more. Sometimes at 1 mile you might only want 17x. I like using 15+ for checking zero, and find the higher magnification is useful when you are attempting to range targets with a reticle.
It depends too much on the shooter and his rifle.. Some are more steady than others, some rifles are easier to keep steady depending on weight or design. Drop the mag down until you can't see your movement or until you can't see the target, and find the balance point.
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That depends on the target. Seeing center mass on a human sized target is easier than 1moa gongs at 1k. I can see a human at 1k with my naked eye, but will run my scope up to 25x when shooting my 8" popper at 700 yards. I like 2x per 100 yards, but I am a mag whore in recovery.
I like enough magnification to see a defined aiming point on target.
At 100, I'll use all that is available. At longer distances my magnification tends to go down and the aiming point changes.
I really like 3 or 9 O'clock on circular or even square targets. To my tired old eyes, it is easier to work with a hard defined edge than trying to hold center of something. When shooting with open sights or a red dot, I go back to the pistol sighting system and go for a 6 O'clock hold.
At 100, I'll use all that is available. At longer distances my magnification tends to go down and the aiming point changes.
I really like 3 or 9 O'clock on circular or even square targets. To my tired old eyes, it is easier to work with a hard defined edge than trying to hold center of something. When shooting with open sights or a red dot, I go back to the pistol sighting system and go for a 6 O'clock hold.
Most of the top of the line FFP scopes used in PRS type shooting from close in to long distances are variables that max at 25x to 30x. In F class shooters typically shoot SFP scopes that run up to 55x or so. Most second tier scopes and hunting scopes are variables at that run max at about 14x to 18x. You can always turn one down, you can't crank it past the max stop.
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