Marking your brass???

Twisted

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 12, 2009
508
1
46
NW Oregon
www.twistedfirearms.com
Anyone have any tips or tricks to marking your brass to identify it among others? I usually use a fine tip sharpie and write the number of load on the primer. (when I load brand new brass I write a "1" on it, the next time a "2", etc. etc.) This tends to work better for just keeping track of the number of fire but it rubs off easy and unless I write it in the right spot the crater hides the actual number after firing.

At one time I used finger nail polish across the primer and surrounding surface. It worked as a primer sealer and helped me identify my brass but was told this could be bad also for several reasons.

Anyone have any good ideas or methods they can share?
 
if ladder testing i usually write the powder and everything in the book and label the brass 1,2,3 ext. When I find a load ill usually put W (winter) or S (summer), that way i can look in the book under W and know exactly what happened. Typicaly a black sharpy works good, and come off in an hour of tumbling with polish and dryer sheets.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Aftermath
I put one line on the rim for once fired brass, 2 for twice fired, etc. The only problem with this is after it comes out of the tumbler the line may be faded or completely gone. I try to only put brass in my tumbler that has been fired the same amount of times and when I take them out I remark them and add 1 mark b/c it has been fired again. I wish there was an easier way to do it but it's the best I have come up with so far. I would love to be able to just throw it all in the tumbler and keep on trucking. Maybe a small engraving tool to put lines on the rim would work, just haven't tried it yet.
When it comes to working up a load for an OCW, ladder or grouping test I prefer to color part of the bullet tip with a marker. I then match that in my book with a mark of that color also beside the load. Or you could put your color on your primer if you so choose.
 
Last edited:
When I do ladder test I just write with sharpie on the case, comes off easy afterwards.

I want a more permanent method. The finger nail polish worked great, never came off, but I was warned that it may effect how the case seats against the bolt.

I'm also starting to wonder about cerakoting the bottom face only. Shouldn't be a problem heating them to cure.
 
Pretty much same as above, but I have a collection of sharpie colors and color the entire base during ladder testing and batch reload with my cases being stored in MTM case holders. Their stick on labels for these cases have numbers so that each time that batch is reloaded you just check-off or cross out the number appropriate to the reload count on that batch. Works pretty good.
 
Spring punch:

entry-sp.jpg


Anyone have any tips or tricks to marking your brass to identify it among others? I usually use a fine tip sharpie and write the number of load on the primer. (when I load brand new brass I write a "1" on it, the next time a "2", etc. etc.) This tends to work better for just keeping track of the number of fire but it rubs off easy and unless I write it in the right spot the crater hides the actual number after firing.

At one time I used finger nail polish across the primer and surrounding surface. It worked as a primer sealer and helped me identify my brass but was told this could be bad also for several reasons.

Anyone have any good ideas or methods they can share?
 
Anyone have any tips or tricks to marking your brass to identify it among others? I usually use a fine tip sharpie and write the number of load on the primer. (when I load brand new brass I write a "1" on it, the next time a "2", etc. etc.) This tends to work better for just keeping track of the number of fire but it rubs off easy and unless I write it in the right spot the crater hides the actual number after firing.

At one time I used finger nail polish across the primer and surrounding surface. It worked as a primer sealer and helped me identify my brass but was told this could be bad also for several reasons.

Anyone have any good ideas or methods they can share?

I keep a reloading journal and in my journal, I mark a '0' next to the brand of brass, when I'm using new, unfired cases. This means that the brass has been fired zero times. After that cart gets fired, the number becomes a '1' and so on.

If I have a box of carts where I'm using different charge weights, I just take a Sharpie and mark a 1, 2, 3 or 4 on the side of the case, to distinguish what cart is what charge. All other pertinent info gets written down on the label that affixes to the box.

My journal has all this info as well. Now...the tricky part is cleaning the brass in a tumbler and keeping track of which is which, should one batch have two firings on it and another box has four firings. I'll look for something else to clean with just one box, unless they happen to be of different headstamps, then things are easier.

I can go back 18 years and tell you what's what and how it shot group wise and how most of it clocked on my chrono.

Chris
 
While I appreciate all the input, and much of it good stuff, I think my original question has been misunderstood or maybe I asked it wrong.

I'm more concerned about marking the brass somewhat permanently that will identify it as mine. If I shoot a stage at a match and then pick up all the brass right near me I want to be able to quickly pick out mine. Or more importantly if someone else picks it up it is easy for them to quickly realize its mine and get it back to me. I've seen some guys use what appears to be a sharpie, or possibly finger nail polish, across the back in a bright color to quickly identify their brass in a pile.

I'm strongly considering cerakoting the base (part where the writing is) in pink or something unless someone tells me its a bad idea....
 
While I appreciate all the input, and much of it good stuff, I think my original question has been misunderstood or maybe I asked it wrong.

I'm more concerned about marking the brass somewhat permanently that will identify it as mine. If I shoot a stage at a match and then pick up all the brass right near me I want to be able to quickly pick out mine. Or more importantly if someone else picks it up it is easy for them to quickly realize its mine and get it back to me. I've seen some guys use what appears to be a sharpie, or possibly finger nail polish, across the back in a bright color to quickly identify their brass in a pile.

I'm strongly considering cerakoting the base (part where the writing is) in pink or something unless someone tells me its a bad idea....

You're overthinking the problem.

Just mark your carts with any type of Sharpie mark and you're golden.

It's not that hard of a problem to overcome.

Chris
 
You're overthinking the problem.

Just mark your carts with any type of Sharpie mark and you're golden.

It's not that hard of a problem to overcome.

Chris

Sharpie comes off too easy with basic handling. At least that is my experience. Works decent enough but looking/hoping for a better option. But it may come down to the good ol sharpie.
 
Sharpie comes off too easy with basic handling. At least that is my experience. Works decent enough but looking/hoping for a better option. But it may come down to the good ol sharpie.

I've been using Sharpies on my brass for 18 years and it stays put...that's why they're called permament markers.

Now, if you're prone to rubbing your brass between your fingers, over and over again, like a nervous tic, sure, it might eventually rub off.

You can always try lady's nail polish, but that might end up flaking off, so who knows?


Chris
 
Sharpie comes off too easy with basic handling. At least that is my experience. Works decent enough but looking/hoping for a better option. But it may come down to the good ol sharpie.

I've not had any trouble with this, personally. However, Sharpie has an "Industrial" version of the good old sharpie that is extra tough to get off, and handles higher temperature.

I recently shot the Mammoth match, and most everybody had marked up their brass for easier policing. At mammoth, you police your brass *after* everybody has shot the stage.

There were red rings, blue rings, black rings, heavy black color all over the casehead, stripes running lenthwise etc etc etc.

The one that BY FAR stood out the best amongst all the other was the brass with multiple blue rings around the casehead. The shooter had put the marks on the case with a Wilson casetrimmer, so the rings were perfectly straight, which made them stand out MUCH better than the hand-drawn ones. Perfectly straight stuff doesn't exist in nature.
 
Ha, I hated losing any of my cheap Winchester 308 brass.

I'm going to make you one of those AR15 brass catchers that you can just velcro on to your receiver. Problem solved!
;)

What about coating the base up to and into the extrator groove so you can id it from the side, too? I've been using some markers that Chris gave me that work great. Better than a sharpie and they stand out very well. If I still have one I'll send you a picture.
 
I'm going to make you one of those AR15 brass catchers that you can just velcro on to your receiver. Problem solved!
;)

What about coating the base up to and into the extrator groove so you can id it from the side, too? I've been using some markers that Chris gave me that work great. Better than a sharpie and they stand out very well. If I still have one I'll send you a picture.

I've been tossing around the idea of coating the brass just like you describe. I have some bright colors of Cerakote that would work nice (Prison Pink, Zombie Green). My gut says there would be no adverse effects but don't know. I might coat a hand full of the brass just to see. It may seem like overkill but if it works great like I think it will it will be worth the effort.

And I got the pic you sent. Those markers appear to be readily available nearly everywhere locally, come in a 4 pack for $6 or $7. Might swing by a couple places today on my ventures around town and see if I can find some. Might be worth a shot. If anything I can color code the primers, like someone above mentioned, to keep track of the firings.
 
Let us know how the coating goes. Would love to do my hunting brass in a bright color, I have lost plenty of brass from quickly jacking in another round for a follow up shot and then I can't find the spent case afterwards
 
I'm thinking something like this might work out good for me although I felt a little odd buying the finger nail polish the other day by myself. Both my daughters were too busy to come help me out.

I also have a thought about trying sight dot paint to fill in the lettering on the bottom.

285225_3900358286422_1528285187_n.jpg
 
I have been using a spring punch. It's quick, permanent, and I've kind of toyed with the idea of also using it to try and crimp prematurely overexpanded primer pockets.....

I think you've misunderstood what I'm looking for. I don't have a problem keeping track of the brass/loads, I want a way to quickly identify it as mine in a small pile of brass such as when several pieces are picked up together after a stage at a match.
 
While I appreciate all the input, and much of it good stuff, I think my original question has been misunderstood or maybe I asked it wrong.

I'm more concerned about marking the brass somewhat permanently that will identify it as mine. If I shoot a stage at a match and then pick up all the brass right near me I want to be able to quickly pick out mine. Or more importantly if someone else picks it up it is easy for them to quickly realize its mine and get it back to me. I've seen some guys use what appears to be a sharpie, or possibly finger nail polish, across the back in a bright color to quickly identify their brass in a pile.

I'm strongly considering cerakoting the base (part where the writing is) in pink or something unless someone tells me its a bad idea....

I tried to get my smith to engrave my bolt face with a backwards C and P on either side of the firing pin hole so the primer cup would flow into the letters when fired. He said he doesn't have time for that gay-ass shit. I think it would work, though.
 
I'm thinking something like this might work out good for me although I felt a little odd buying the finger nail polish the other day by myself. Both my daughters were too busy to come help me out.

I also have a thought about trying sight dot paint to fill in the lettering on the bottom.

285225_3900358286422_1528285187_n.jpg

Have you had a chance to tumble those, and if so, how did the coloring fare, did it stay on?
 
Here is what I'm starting with to see how it works. Fast, simple, cheap, and hopefully effective. Plus it makes them all look like poker chips which amuses me.

901790_4019261458927_1408701577_o.jpg

Is that sharpie or something else? Have you shot it yet? I'm curious whether it mucks up your bolt face.

Anybody looked into 'anodizing' their brass?

I'd be leery of any chemical change you make to brass. It's important that it not change its hardness or make it brittle. It would take a lot of not having to re-mark your brass after every tumbling to make up for a ruptured case :)
 
Is that sharpie or something else? Have you shot it yet? I'm curious whether it mucks up your bolt face.



I'd be leery of any chemical change you make to brass. It's important that it not change its hardness or make it brittle. It would take a lot of not having to re-mark your brass after every tumbling to make up for a ruptured case :)



Machinists Blue, layout dye, also known as Dykem

You can buy it in a bottle with a foam tip, would work great for an application like this.
 
I have not tumbled the one brass I tested the green nail polish on but will probably do the same treatment to a few more and then throw them in the tumbler with the next batch just to see. I suspect it will hold up decent but we'll see.

The blue color I ended up going with was actually a permanent poster marker from the drug store. A friend gave me the tip on them as they worked good for him. I'm sure it will come off in the tumbler, or at least come off enough to need doing again, but it really didn't take much time at all.

I'm still tossing around the idea of making a jig to hold 20 or so shells just right so I can Cerakote the heads pink or something but we'll see. This marker method is so simple, fast, easy, and cheap which are all great reasons to stick with it assuming it works out decent.
 
I tried to get my smith to engrave my bolt face with a backwards C and P on either side of the firing pin hole so the primer cup would flow into the letters when fired. He said he doesn't have time for that gay-ass shit. I think it would work, though.


find someone with a laser engraver and take the bolt to them. Some trophy shops have them.

I used a dremel tool with the smallest carbide burr I could find to just put a hash mark on the case head. Kind of a "scratch" from just short of the primer pocket to the edge. Added a mark at each firing.

Quit doing that when I ran out of room for the marks. Since I anneal my cases regularly and only bump the shoulders .0015" to .002" they just don't fail all that much.
 
Sharpie, On each casing I list bullet, powder grains and COAL

Twisted, your chick is tame. She needs to be in leathers, tied up over a barrel. That, or standing there in garter, fishnets, stilettos and a cat o' nine tails. ;)
 
Still waiting for someone to suggest marking the primers of loaded rounds with an electric engraving pencil..something that only an idiot would do because he would end up blowing his ass up!




I thought that's what the guys who mentioned the spring loaded center punch were doing...............No? LOL
 
Well, as one Master Ass-wiper taught me, if we want to be friends, Charmin works well. Otherwise, a stick, and a bit of probing while you're at it.

Speaking of probing, how did the other night go with Sniper Aunt? She sounded a little friskey.
I showed my wife that one, she laughed her butt off!