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Material for weight insert inside a KRG Bravo chassis

BoulderE89

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Jul 26, 2019
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St. George, UT
So quick disclaimer I'm no engineer or machinist and am trying to become more handy. I thought it would be a fun project to make myself a weighted insert to put into my krg bravo chassis. I can either go with 1018 steel or 360 brass. Anyone with machining or any other relative experience have an opinion on which is more preferable? From what I can tell brass is slightly denser and easier to cut into and thread, but I could be reading it wrong for all I know. Any advice would be appreciated!
 
Brass will be a little more dense, and more expensive. Steel is cheap. 1018 will be extremely easy to machine as far as steel goes.

I want to say that brass and aluminum don't like to be next to one another in corrosive environments. Galvanic corrosion I think is the term. Anyway, if you paint/coat one or the other it's a non-issue. Just comes down to cost mostly IMO, and whichever you prefer.
 
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Until I can replace mine, I use 9mm Bullets in a bag with tape around to prevent rattling.
Cheap as I have thousands of those little fellas hanging around.
Actually just picked up what I’ve dropped over the years and use those.
 
I buy #4 buckshot, epoxy, and a plastic bag. Put the bag into the well, and add shot until it's full. Then pour out the shot into a foam cup, add just enough epoxy to get all the shot wet, and pour it back into the bag. Close the bag with a tie, put everything back together immediately (to verify clearance), and let it cure.

If the shot is going to be in the forearm, guarantee barrel clearance by laying up a bunch of tape, 4-6 layers, lengthwise, centered along the bottom of the barrel, and coat it with release agent.

Then proceed as above.

By enclosing the shot in the plastic bag, it should be removable (unless there's a mechanical lockup); preserving options.

Minds change with time.

Greg
 
Brass is easy to machine .

lead shot can be poured anywhere and will conform to whatever shape the pocket is .

I use carbide blanks epoxied in place on my stock
 
7 1/2 shot and elmers glue. Put foil or Saran Wrap in the cavity you want to fill. A layer of glue, then lead shot and topped with glue. Let it dry over night. Won’t rattle around and can be removed for hunting season.
 
Can you cut the shape you want in wood? Melting lead into a wood pocket would be heavier than Pb shot/epoxy. Stick-on wheel weights are nearly pure lead. Pure lead will contract ~1% from the molten state and fall out of the mould once cool.

Examples:

In the front.
weight2.jpg

weight1.jpg


In the back:
castingmould-jpg.7452643

castingweight-jpg.7452644
 
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