Or take the cheap way out like I did and paint them with some Krylon. As for weight my Savage versions weigh 69.4oz...they ain't light, but seem pretty strong.
MDT Oryx Chassis
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Or take the cheap way out like I did and paint them with some Krylon. As for weight my Savage versions weigh 69.4oz...they ain't light, but seem pretty strong.
Wrong. They come with od green and you can buy the other color panels separately.
Probably because it’s a ton of extra skew #s to keep in stock which costs more $ and makes logistics harder. Hard to justify on a budget chassis.
I'm trying to figure out which Kick-eez stock pad will fit my oryx chassis. What did you use?
Maybe this?
MDT ORYX Forend Arca-Swiss Rail System
MDT ORYX Forend Arca-Swiss Rail System, M-lok Rails, ORYX full length forend Arca Swiss Rail System
www.coretacsolutions.com
You can request it by hitting the support button on the Oryx Chassis website and letting us know!
This is 100% the reasoning. For us to stock one colour means X amount of sku's, every time we add another colour that list doubles, then triples and so on. Seeing as we already have 23 inlets available, this could get out of hand quick!
Josh
I checked both Oryx and MDT web site and no listing yet. I have a feeling it won't be long till we see them.
I have several MDT Arca rails and they all work great in my RRS tripod and bipod adapters.
All MDT RRS dovetails are checked with a gauge from RRS that is manufactured and controlled to their standard. @MPHReallyRightStuff made sure we made them right!
Josh
Awesome to know. Not invested in any system right now, but just bought the ND Atlas bipod and need a clamp. So was going back and forth between RSS and Area 419. Think I'll just go RRS for it.
I don't own the Area 419 clamp but do have other items from them, they make nice parts! I do have 2 of the RRS clamps and like them, I don't think you can go wrong with either.
Hi Josh
I want to drop my Savage 10 PC (Precision Carbine), in .308 into your Chassis. As I understand it, you access the bottom bolt release with a tool through a slot in the chassis? What mags are offered for this set up?
Yes, your Savage M10-FCP will drop right into our chassis and you are correct, there is a small slot on the side of the trigger guard that allows you to access the "bottom" bolt release. We typically recommend using a small screwdriver, allen key, car key or something else to trigger the bolt release, whilst holding the main trigger back and removing the bolt.
As for magazines, most AICS pattern magazines will work! Examples include our MDT Metal AICS Pattern Magazines or our MDT Polymer AICS Pattern Magazines!
Josh
My Black Friday special showed up today for my CZ 455. It looks great, fit is perfect, etc. I put my TLC grip on it and it's almost ready to go, I'm just waiting for the RRS rail to come out.
Edit: I'll need to buy the LOP extender pack for shooting prone, I should have thought of that because of my orangutan arms. I just put 100 rounds through it to start getting the tuner dialed in, but it's very comfortable. The thumb shelf is a welcome feature.
Edit: I'll need to buy the LOP extender pack for shooting prone, I should have thought of that because of my orangutan arms. I just put 100 rounds through it to start getting the tuner dialed in, but it's very comfortable. The thumb shelf is a welcome feature.
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@MDT_Josh, can you please comment on the MDT Howa Mini magazine depicted here? They appear longer (higher capacity) than the Legacy Sports Mini magazines. Are these 10-round Grendel flavor? Can you provide the max internal OAL length, please?
It's been a year, any chance there's been progress on a 10-round magazine system for the Howa Mini in 6.5 Grendel? I'd buy two.
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They should fit without issue. If you need assistance please contact Oryx support through their website!
It's been a year, any chance there's been progress on a 10-round magazine system for the Howa Mini in 6.5 Grendel? I'd buy two.
Sorry guys, but that project has been put on an indefinite hold as far as I am aware. There were some complications during development that caused the project to fall through.
Josh
I got the sling mounts installed and I'm satisfied with them. The top of the mount is flush with the top of the skins, just the socket and cap screws stand a little proud of the surface. It'll work for now.
The mounts themselves are some inexpensive M-LOK mounts from Amazon, they were $13 for the pair and sufficed to flesh this out. At first I was going to drill and tap the side of the chassis and re-use some of the hardware but that turned into a no go when I realized that the side of the chassis is thinner than I anticipated. It's threaded to accept the screws for the skins but I played it safe and decided to thru-bolt it with lock nuts on the back since the mount will be under tension. My plan was to pick up some black oxide 8-32 flat head screws so they'd be flush with the mount but that didn't work out, so I used 8-32 button head cap screws. It still works since it keeps the same appearance as the screws that hold the skins on.
Routing out the skins was easy enough with a couple of Dremel bits, the leading edge of the mount is 3" from the front of the chassis and fairly centered on the flat of the skins. The Arca/Swiss plate that I'm going to use should be in tomorrow so I'll get that mounted up too, a little more redneck engineering on the way!
The mounts themselves are some inexpensive M-LOK mounts from Amazon, they were $13 for the pair and sufficed to flesh this out. At first I was going to drill and tap the side of the chassis and re-use some of the hardware but that turned into a no go when I realized that the side of the chassis is thinner than I anticipated. It's threaded to accept the screws for the skins but I played it safe and decided to thru-bolt it with lock nuts on the back since the mount will be under tension. My plan was to pick up some black oxide 8-32 flat head screws so they'd be flush with the mount but that didn't work out, so I used 8-32 button head cap screws. It still works since it keeps the same appearance as the screws that hold the skins on.
Routing out the skins was easy enough with a couple of Dremel bits, the leading edge of the mount is 3" from the front of the chassis and fairly centered on the flat of the skins. The Arca/Swiss plate that I'm going to use should be in tomorrow so I'll get that mounted up too, a little more redneck engineering on the way!
You can buy cheap ARCA rails for cameras from 30mm to 100mm long and either epoxy (bubba) them on the bottom or get some washers and screw them into the slots on the bottom.
My bet would be to get a tap and drill a small hole in the ali chassis to thread then screw them directly onto the bottom of the forend for strength.
Howa actions are very good for the money IMO, I have built a couple of custom rifles on them and they always go half MOA or better groups. They are a copy of the Sako A1 action = Japanese Sako. The Fins really know how to build a rifle and produce good shooters like Simo Haya.
Here is a Howa long action used to build a 264 Win Mag.
My bet would be to get a tap and drill a small hole in the ali chassis to thread then screw them directly onto the bottom of the forend for strength.
Howa actions are very good for the money IMO, I have built a couple of custom rifles on them and they always go half MOA or better groups. They are a copy of the Sako A1 action = Japanese Sako. The Fins really know how to build a rifle and produce good shooters like Simo Haya.
Here is a Howa long action used to build a 264 Win Mag.
Yes, most of our LA chassis will work with any 3.715" metal or polymer, AICS pattern magazines! That means you should have no problems running AI, MagPul, Accurate or our magazine which you can find here:
https://mdttac.com/ca_en/mdt-metal-magazines-long-action.html
Josh
$70 *feels* a little steep for something meant to go on a more affordable chassis option. I have no doubt it’ll be impeccably made but it feels like it was a lost opportunity to not machine a rail into the base chassis itself.
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Order placed, as well as some side panels.
Just need my barrel from Shilen now, then everything off to cerakote.
Just need my barrel from Shilen now, then everything off to cerakote.
I like how they took care of the angled forend. Now to add flush cups to it from the factory!
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Thank you for your feedback. We feel its a reasonable price for the option if you would like a full-length ARCA rail.
Thank you for your feedback!
So help me understand.... I bought a Oryx chassis for $299 incl shipping around black friday. Now with the 70 for the rail and 20-30 ( don't remember exactly) for the spacer kit, I've a precision rifle chassis for about $ 400.00 . if you don't agree that this is a screaming deal, nobody can help you or make you happy in this business.
I agree that's a screaming deal. I bought mine at full price, $400, and bought spacers and I still think it's a good deal. That said, I *feel* like I do.
I love MDT, I have multiple things from them and I think they're a principled company. I don't think they're trying to gouge people or overcharging for the product. I'm looking at it as a situation where you're bolting a machined part onto something else that was machined, so my first instinct was to wonder if the rail could have been machined into the base chassis. Hindsight is 20/20 though.
I don't know what decisions went into the original design. I not saying they *should* have done something a certain way. I'm expressing what I felt about this. I like the execution of this with them making it a full length flat rail but it does feel like it was an afterthought. That itself could be good and bad. The good being that it may indicate how MDT listens to it's customers and puts out products they ask for. In the end I'll likely buy it.
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Yes, we need to update the Magazine Compatibility Chart on the website. The Tikka T3 long action uses our 3.560" magazine which is the longest magazine that will go into a Tikka without modifications to the action or trigger group.
Fun Fact: 1/4-20 square nuts fit the M-LOK slots in the Oryx chassis like they were made for each other. Just attached a Henderson Precision 3" Arca rail with 1/4-20 X 1/2" button head cap screws and the square nuts, it's like they were made for each other.
I've been a long time lurker and finally registered a few weeks ago. Hate for my first post to be a question but.................. I bought(ordered) a Oryx chassis in December for a Savage SA from Optics Planet. I've called OP, emailed Oryx, and called Legacy(Distributor) in Nevada. No one has any idea when they're going to ship. I have a slight OCD problem(I'm a engineer) and I have to plan everything, complicated by travel about 60% of the time.
My Question: Has anyone received a Savage SA. If so, how do you like it? Or does anyone have a ETA for Savage SA's?
Thanks,
Joe
My Question: Has anyone received a Savage SA. If so, how do you like it? Or does anyone have a ETA for Savage SA's?
Thanks,
Joe
Start buying more direct from manufacture and dump optics planet. I found its better in the long run for communication support and RMA purposes. As far as the Savage S/A goes, I love mine. Don't have to many rounds with it before I pulled it apart for Cerakote though. Waiting on my barrel to send it off for fluting and a complete Cerakote job.
I added a QD cup to the front of my Oryx by using an extra mlok QD(ground the back smooth). The plastic side panel has really good framing behind it so I just used a longer #8-32 bolt and attached the QD outside the plastic. Then just drilled and tapped a 2nd 8-32 hole. It’s rock solid and looks a little nicer than using a dremel on the side panel. I liked how it turned out and figured I would share.
Also my rear QD cup wouldn’t accept my Armageddon Sling because it was hitting the plastic LOP spacer. I had to grind a little off the spacer and now it fits. I thought it was the depth of the hole at first but no it’s the spacer.
Has anybody found a way to add additional weight to the rear end of the Oryx chassis? I have one in a savage axis inlet with a bull criterion barrel and need just maybe an extra pound somewhere close to my shoulder. I’ve thought about substituting one of the spacers and some how adding a lb in one somehow but am not all that mechanically inclined.
For $400 ($450 for me w vertical grip) it really is a solid value... I’m shooting 284 Win and it’s my only rifle w that cartridge but it shoots solid .35-.55 MOA on 75% of groups @ 100 yards but I can feel it would be better with more weight. Any thoughts?
For $400 ($450 for me w vertical grip) it really is a solid value... I’m shooting 284 Win and it’s my only rifle w that cartridge but it shoots solid .35-.55 MOA on 75% of groups @ 100 yards but I can feel it would be better with more weight. Any thoughts?
Hey josh I have a ruger American predator in 6.5 cm. How easy would the install be for the oryx considering where the action screw is? Also would the short action 308 mags offered on the website work directly with my gun? I have the standard predator not the version that is AI mag compatible from the factory. Thanks in advance.
