I come across some AR500 scrap metal which I plan to turn into metal targets. Unfortunately, they have no pre-drilled holes for which you can mount the target. Can anyone tell me what is the easiest way to dril a couple holes in each scrap piece ? Any particular drill-bit one can use? Thank you in advance.
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Re: metal target AR500-need help
I tried to make holes in an AR500 target once. I used up 5 colbalt drill bits to make the holes. The best way to make the holes is with a Water jet. It makes nice clean holes.
I tried to make holes in an AR500 target once. I used up 5 colbalt drill bits to make the holes. The best way to make the holes is with a Water jet. It makes nice clean holes.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RussW1911</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Weld mild steel to the hard steel
</div></div>
A friend of mine welded his target. He found that the vibration from the bullet impacting the target cause it to break up at the welded spot. Is this true?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RussW1911</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Weld mild steel to the hard steel
</div></div>
A friend of mine welded his target. He found that the vibration from the bullet impacting the target cause it to break up at the welded spot. Is this true?
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Use a torch to get the steel really hot and then drill it on a drill press if you have one or even a hand drill will work. Heat-drill-heat-drill-heat-drill.................
Use a torch to get the steel really hot and then drill it on a drill press if you have one or even a hand drill will work. Heat-drill-heat-drill-heat-drill.................
Re: metal target AR500-need help
depending on how thick it is you can put nice clean holes in it with a bullet over 4100fps
depending on how thick it is you can put nice clean holes in it with a bullet over 4100fps
Re: metal target AR500-need help
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ranger70</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use 50cal Amax for making holes works great. </div></div>
.50 Amax won't make a mark on AR 500 steel.
I haven't tried it but from what I hear if you heat the steel to a red glow you can the drill through it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ranger70</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I use 50cal Amax for making holes works great. </div></div>
.50 Amax won't make a mark on AR 500 steel.
I haven't tried it but from what I hear if you heat the steel to a red glow you can the drill through it.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Plasma cutter or water jet.
Plasma cutters are easier to find as most metal/fabrication shops have at least one. Another good place to look is a collision repair place for big trucks. The holes arent neat but they are holes.
Cheers,
Doc
Plasma cutter or water jet.
Plasma cutters are easier to find as most metal/fabrication shops have at least one. Another good place to look is a collision repair place for big trucks. The holes arent neat but they are holes.
Cheers,
Doc
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Easiest route would be to weld a threaded stud (or two) to the back then suspend the target with chain. You put the stud thrugh the link and secure with a washer and nut. This will also allow for the target to swing and IMO makes it easier to break down the targets and stand. I have tried welding pipe to the top and running a section of bar stock through that to act as a swing but as mentioned previously the welds will fail. Had good luck with the chain method so far which is not surprising as I copied it from LaRue.
Easiest route would be to weld a threaded stud (or two) to the back then suspend the target with chain. You put the stud thrugh the link and secure with a washer and nut. This will also allow for the target to swing and IMO makes it easier to break down the targets and stand. I have tried welding pipe to the top and running a section of bar stock through that to act as a swing but as mentioned previously the welds will fail. Had good luck with the chain method so far which is not surprising as I copied it from LaRue.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Been shooting my LV Steel target with a host of calibers for I dunno how many rounds and the weld has not broken
It has held up nicely to 338 and 300's
Been shooting my LV Steel target with a host of calibers for I dunno how many rounds and the weld has not broken
It has held up nicely to 338 and 300's
Re: metal target AR500-need help
A good weld isn't going to be vibrated apart by bullet impacts, so that'd be the preferable way to go. Or if a torch is nearby just blow the holes in it.
If you absolutely have to drill holes, use a cobalt bit, lots of cutting fluid, and a press that makes it easy to keep a constant pressure. The cheap way to go would be to build a cup around the hole with clay or the like, and keep it full of fluid. Since it is scrap it is probably tempered so go slow or it will work harden.
A good weld isn't going to be vibrated apart by bullet impacts, so that'd be the preferable way to go. Or if a torch is nearby just blow the holes in it.
If you absolutely have to drill holes, use a cobalt bit, lots of cutting fluid, and a press that makes it easy to keep a constant pressure. The cheap way to go would be to build a cup around the hole with clay or the like, and keep it full of fluid. Since it is scrap it is probably tempered so go slow or it will work harden.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Go to a welding shop and have them cut the holes with a plasma cutter.
Go to a welding shop and have them cut the holes with a plasma cutter.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Thank you for your inputs. I was affraid of either plasma cut, or water jet cut, just because it is hard to find a place to do that where they don't charge you an arm an a leg. I forget to say, the metal are 1/2 inch in thickness. At least from the input, welding is still an option. It would definitely my first choice. Once again, thank you for all the inputs.
Thank you for your inputs. I was affraid of either plasma cut, or water jet cut, just because it is hard to find a place to do that where they don't charge you an arm an a leg. I forget to say, the metal are 1/2 inch in thickness. At least from the input, welding is still an option. It would definitely my first choice. Once again, thank you for all the inputs.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
I just had some tubing welded on the back of some plates I bought.
I just had some tubing welded on the back of some plates I bought.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
If you're looking for relatively cheap and easy holes, find someone with a plasma torch. Otherwise, you're looking at pricey bits for drilling.
Any coated bit, such as TiN, cobalt, or carbide won't last but for about 1/16" into it. When you sharpen those bits, you take away the hardened coating and are left with a mild steel bit which won't even scratch. Realize if you heat it until it glows in order to drill, you have effectively turned it into mild steel and negated the purpose of AR500.
If you get something welded to it, make sure the guy running the welder knows what he's doing. Putting too much heat into the steel will ruin the temper just as fast as taking a torch to it. Low amp TIG is the way to go to do it right.
If you're looking for relatively cheap and easy holes, find someone with a plasma torch. Otherwise, you're looking at pricey bits for drilling.
Any coated bit, such as TiN, cobalt, or carbide won't last but for about 1/16" into it. When you sharpen those bits, you take away the hardened coating and are left with a mild steel bit which won't even scratch. Realize if you heat it until it glows in order to drill, you have effectively turned it into mild steel and negated the purpose of AR500.
If you get something welded to it, make sure the guy running the welder knows what he's doing. Putting too much heat into the steel will ruin the temper just as fast as taking a torch to it. Low amp TIG is the way to go to do it right.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Yah I'd watch out for red hot heating the plate to drill a hole. Could just wled the bit into the plate. Playing the bumb some help from an industrial site that might have a super press for making holes might work but who knows where you are. Forging shops might have exactly what you want but mostly they do contracts and bill by each step ie basicly doing it then pay by hole. Could be a place that works leaf springs for cars would have a heavy press for making holes. I forget how thick your plate is but big heavy truck springs aren't a easy job. Not everyone goes the route of drilling. I used to work in a metal fab shop where I'd do even drilling and resharpening drill bits till they are smoked to the stub was the norm. Could be even a heavy iron gate and fence making company has the press you need. The trick of making welds easy is just punching a hole through the thick horizontal flat bar so that vertical pieces just slide through then all that is needed is two tack welds. Soooooo try some big iron gate makers if you ave one near by. Even a galvanizer might have the quick fix for guys that don't prep pieces so acids and galvanizing will pour out when hung up to dry. I'm not sure if you have seen the regular cheap route of just torching a hole through to bolt and washer a piece to something or if the metal is even prone to vaporizing with an acetaline torch on it. What ever have fun.
Yah I'd watch out for red hot heating the plate to drill a hole. Could just wled the bit into the plate. Playing the bumb some help from an industrial site that might have a super press for making holes might work but who knows where you are. Forging shops might have exactly what you want but mostly they do contracts and bill by each step ie basicly doing it then pay by hole. Could be a place that works leaf springs for cars would have a heavy press for making holes. I forget how thick your plate is but big heavy truck springs aren't a easy job. Not everyone goes the route of drilling. I used to work in a metal fab shop where I'd do even drilling and resharpening drill bits till they are smoked to the stub was the norm. Could be even a heavy iron gate and fence making company has the press you need. The trick of making welds easy is just punching a hole through the thick horizontal flat bar so that vertical pieces just slide through then all that is needed is two tack welds. Soooooo try some big iron gate makers if you ave one near by. Even a galvanizer might have the quick fix for guys that don't prep pieces so acids and galvanizing will pour out when hung up to dry. I'm not sure if you have seen the regular cheap route of just torching a hole through to bolt and washer a piece to something or if the metal is even prone to vaporizing with an acetaline torch on it. What ever have fun.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
I'd imagine a carbide drill and good cutting oil would go through it. There's not much that carbide wont cut through.
I'd imagine a carbide drill and good cutting oil would go through it. There's not much that carbide wont cut through.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Plasma. Most shops that weld have one. Check the yellow pages. It never hurts to ask. I'm guessing they'll di it for free if you just show up asking for a couple holes cut. Probably easier to just cut them than run the paper work to bill ya. Make sure you tell them it is AR500.
Plasma. Most shops that weld have one. Check the yellow pages. It never hurts to ask. I'm guessing they'll di it for free if you just show up asking for a couple holes cut. Probably easier to just cut them than run the paper work to bill ya. Make sure you tell them it is AR500.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Plasma cutter or water jet.
</div></div>
My AR-500 LV Target is showing signs of bullet strike deformation along the outer edges only. I think its because the shape was cut using a plasma torch, but not sure. Plasma will ruin the temper of the steel close to where it cuts, where a water jet wont heat it beyond spec.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: doc76251</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Plasma cutter or water jet.
</div></div>
My AR-500 LV Target is showing signs of bullet strike deformation along the outer edges only. I think its because the shape was cut using a plasma torch, but not sure. Plasma will ruin the temper of the steel close to where it cuts, where a water jet wont heat it beyond spec.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Use a coated drill bit and go slow on the rpms. Use plenty of cutting oil. It will drill through no problem.
High speed smokes drill bits.
Use a coated drill bit and go slow on the rpms. Use plenty of cutting oil. It will drill through no problem.
High speed smokes drill bits.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
I shot a few rounds this evening with a 308 Win and a 338 Lapua. I made a couple of spinners recently, one is AR plate and the other mild steel.
At 400 yds I was suprised the 338 put a nice clean 5/8" hole through the regular 1/2 inch plate while the AR of the same thickness was barely marked,it's really tough stuff. I have a pic of them but for some reason photobucket isnt working for me tonight. The 338 LM was loaded with 250 SMK's.
I shot a few rounds this evening with a 308 Win and a 338 Lapua. I made a couple of spinners recently, one is AR plate and the other mild steel.
At 400 yds I was suprised the 338 put a nice clean 5/8" hole through the regular 1/2 inch plate while the AR of the same thickness was barely marked,it's really tough stuff. I have a pic of them but for some reason photobucket isnt working for me tonight. The 338 LM was loaded with 250 SMK's.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Finally was able to upload a pic, the 6 inch round is 1/2" AR and was hit several times with splashes only, the right target is 1/2 inch A36 and was center punched by the SMK. The target with shot at 400 yards.s
Finally was able to upload a pic, the 6 inch round is 1/2" AR and was hit several times with splashes only, the right target is 1/2 inch A36 and was center punched by the SMK. The target with shot at 400 yards.s
Re: metal target AR500-need help
My targets have small square holes cut to accept a carriage bolt. The original bolts have held up fine after thousands of rounds. My point is that if the plasma torch weakens the edge of the hole, it isn't going to be a big deal.
My targets have small square holes cut to accept a carriage bolt. The original bolts have held up fine after thousands of rounds. My point is that if the plasma torch weakens the edge of the hole, it isn't going to be a big deal.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
AR-500 is tough,that said, I have 2 holes in my 3/8 steel from an idiot with a .460 weatherby. Most training facilitys dont allow rifle fire on the steel closer than 100 yds because it develops hot spots. The last ar-500 we bought was 850.00 for a 3/8x4x8 sheet(Globe Iorn Norfolk VA.) and the cost on having 4 large targets and 8 popers cut out was 100.00. I would avoid shooting it with super high velosity rounds such as 22-250 with varment bullets as these will divet the steel...
Buck
AR-500 is tough,that said, I have 2 holes in my 3/8 steel from an idiot with a .460 weatherby. Most training facilitys dont allow rifle fire on the steel closer than 100 yds because it develops hot spots. The last ar-500 we bought was 850.00 for a 3/8x4x8 sheet(Globe Iorn Norfolk VA.) and the cost on having 4 large targets and 8 popers cut out was 100.00. I would avoid shooting it with super high velosity rounds such as 22-250 with varment bullets as these will divet the steel...
Buck
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Ok, guys. I logged into this site just to make this reply.
I just built my brother a Silhouette target out of T1 as AR 500 wasn't available. I since acquired some and ran across this topic while researching AR500.
I took some of the AR 500 and put it on my milling machine, grabbed the first 3/16" bit I came across, slowed the mill speed down, put some thread cutting oil on the plate and drilled thru it. Milling machine, drill press - same difference for drilling holes.
The bit was an off the shelf HSS drill bit I didn't have any problem at all. The AR 500 is IMPACT resistant BUT is machinable. SLOW and steady. I started with normal HSS mill bits to shape it HOWEVER carbide bits machined it beautifully.
That said, I don't know a lot about shooting - I enjoy it but my brother is the 'expert'. We took his Ackley Improved (all I remember about the gun and put some divots @ 100 yds in a .5" T1 plate and his Remington mdl 597 with factory .17 HMR 20gr. XTP (I read it off the box) bullets put tiny divots as well.
Ok, guys. I logged into this site just to make this reply.
I just built my brother a Silhouette target out of T1 as AR 500 wasn't available. I since acquired some and ran across this topic while researching AR500.
I took some of the AR 500 and put it on my milling machine, grabbed the first 3/16" bit I came across, slowed the mill speed down, put some thread cutting oil on the plate and drilled thru it. Milling machine, drill press - same difference for drilling holes.
The bit was an off the shelf HSS drill bit I didn't have any problem at all. The AR 500 is IMPACT resistant BUT is machinable. SLOW and steady. I started with normal HSS mill bits to shape it HOWEVER carbide bits machined it beautifully.
That said, I don't know a lot about shooting - I enjoy it but my brother is the 'expert'. We took his Ackley Improved (all I remember about the gun and put some divots @ 100 yds in a .5" T1 plate and his Remington mdl 597 with factory .17 HMR 20gr. XTP (I read it off the box) bullets put tiny divots as well.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Or you can have a frame built so the plate is free standing within the frame. I think Action Targets built our shoot house at work and their rifle targets were sweet. They used a three sided frame of angle iron, looking down from the top it looked like this:
/______________ \
\ /
Ok that is not what it looks like but I cannot get it right, the angle iron is turned to make a V that retains the plate.
They commented that for maximum durability they tried to avoid any cutting or heat treating of the impact portion of the plates. They previously used the carriage bolt as shown before in Supers target but that creates a possible failure point. I must say this plates took a horrible beating from 5.56 at very close range, over 100,000 rounds on five targets in the first round of training. The plates are turned over occassionaly to prevent them from bowing in the middle.
Or you can have a frame built so the plate is free standing within the frame. I think Action Targets built our shoot house at work and their rifle targets were sweet. They used a three sided frame of angle iron, looking down from the top it looked like this:
/______________ \
\ /
Ok that is not what it looks like but I cannot get it right, the angle iron is turned to make a V that retains the plate.
They commented that for maximum durability they tried to avoid any cutting or heat treating of the impact portion of the plates. They previously used the carriage bolt as shown before in Supers target but that creates a possible failure point. I must say this plates took a horrible beating from 5.56 at very close range, over 100,000 rounds on five targets in the first round of training. The plates are turned over occassionaly to prevent them from bowing in the middle.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RussW1911</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Been shooting my LV Steel target with a host of calibers for I dunno how many rounds and the weld has not broken</div></div>
I also have a welded LV target, and the weld is cracked the entire length, but it hasn't fallen off yet.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RussW1911</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Been shooting my LV Steel target with a host of calibers for I dunno how many rounds and the weld has not broken</div></div>
I also have a welded LV target, and the weld is cracked the entire length, but it hasn't fallen off yet.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Cut your holes with a torch use plow bolts where holes are made.
As far as welding goes use 8018, 9018 or something in that area
Preheat to about 500 weld your area take your chiping hammer
tap the area welded several times reheat area again to around
500 let cool slowly. Should be good to go.
Cut your holes with a torch use plow bolts where holes are made.
As far as welding goes use 8018, 9018 or something in that area
Preheat to about 500 weld your area take your chiping hammer
tap the area welded several times reheat area again to around
500 let cool slowly. Should be good to go.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nomad 1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Cut your holes with a torch use plow bolts where holes are made.
As far as welding goes use 8018, 9018 or something in that area
Preheat to about 500 weld your area take your chiping hammer
tap the area welded several times reheat area again to around
500 let cool slowly. Should be good to go. </div></div>
i can see doing this to an excavator bucket but what will this do to the target hardness in the haz? isn't the ar500 already more prone to divots from impacts around the edges from the laser cut haz?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nomad 1</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Cut your holes with a torch use plow bolts where holes are made.
As far as welding goes use 8018, 9018 or something in that area
Preheat to about 500 weld your area take your chiping hammer
tap the area welded several times reheat area again to around
500 let cool slowly. Should be good to go. </div></div>
i can see doing this to an excavator bucket but what will this do to the target hardness in the haz? isn't the ar500 already more prone to divots from impacts around the edges from the laser cut haz?
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Yes, I know this is an old thread but... I accidently found out that an AR50a1 and an AP round at 500 yards puts a picture perfect hole! I thought it was just A36 steel till my buddy who ownes the range said "what the hell? do i need to kick you in the nuts??" (my bad. didn't know that would happen!)
that being said, where is a good place to buy some AR500?
Yes, I know this is an old thread but... I accidently found out that an AR50a1 and an AP round at 500 yards puts a picture perfect hole! I thought it was just A36 steel till my buddy who ownes the range said "what the hell? do i need to kick you in the nuts??" (my bad. didn't know that would happen!)
that being said, where is a good place to buy some AR500?
Re: metal target AR500-need help
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DesertHK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">check the optics sales section. There are a couples vendors here that sell them. I got some from both and both are GTG. </div></div>
or just get them from LV Steel http://lvsteeltargets.com/
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DesertHK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">check the optics sales section. There are a couples vendors here that sell them. I got some from both and both are GTG. </div></div>
or just get them from LV Steel http://lvsteeltargets.com/
Re: metal target AR500-need help
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ranger1183</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DesertHK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">check the optics sales section. There are a couples vendors here that sell them. I got some from both and both are GTG. </div></div>
or just get them from LV Steel http://lvsteeltargets.com/ </div></div>
Kurt definitely is GTG. His stuff is good.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ranger1183</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DesertHK</div><div class="ubbcode-body">check the optics sales section. There are a couples vendors here that sell them. I got some from both and both are GTG. </div></div>
or just get them from LV Steel http://lvsteeltargets.com/ </div></div>
Kurt definitely is GTG. His stuff is good.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
I have made a few of the AR500 metal targets and i found the best way for me was to weld on small u-bolts to each side then use a heavy weight rated clip.
I have a few pics from the weekend...
I tried to put pics up but i suck...lol
i can email pics if needed..
i have shot these at close range with 300 rem , 308 ect ect and no problems not even a dent... just repaint and shoot again..
let me know if you would like pics.
P.S
I also use a screw together type stand thats really cool and easy to build for about $30.
Pete
I have made a few of the AR500 metal targets and i found the best way for me was to weld on small u-bolts to each side then use a heavy weight rated clip.
I have a few pics from the weekend...
I tried to put pics up but i suck...lol
i can email pics if needed..
i have shot these at close range with 300 rem , 308 ect ect and no problems not even a dent... just repaint and shoot again..
let me know if you would like pics.
P.S
I also use a screw together type stand thats really cool and easy to build for about $30.
Pete
Re: metal target AR500-need help
If you have time take a look at our youtube video.
I made the target out of 3/8 AR500. I used a torch to cut it out and to burn the holes.
I tried to drill it for about 30 seconds and said the hell with that. If you are carefull you can do a nice job blowing holes with the torch.
The hanger is the best part, rubber bareing material, lets ring like a bell.
Beyond 1000 yards: Video, light bullets to 1500 yrds
If you have time take a look at our youtube video.
I made the target out of 3/8 AR500. I used a torch to cut it out and to burn the holes.
I tried to drill it for about 30 seconds and said the hell with that. If you are carefull you can do a nice job blowing holes with the torch.
The hanger is the best part, rubber bareing material, lets ring like a bell.
Beyond 1000 yards: Video, light bullets to 1500 yrds
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Cheapest route. If you dont care what it looks like. Take it to any decent sized high school or college that has shop classes, talk to the teacher. He could probably get one of the students to do it for no charge. I know my old shop in hs we did a lot of little shit like that.
Cheapest route. If you dont care what it looks like. Take it to any decent sized high school or college that has shop classes, talk to the teacher. He could probably get one of the students to do it for no charge. I know my old shop in hs we did a lot of little shit like that.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: beretta_man11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
that being said, where is a good place to buy some AR500? </div></div>
I bought a 12" gong and 16" gong from Arntzen Targets.
http://www.arntzentargets.com/products.htm
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: beretta_man11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
that being said, where is a good place to buy some AR500? </div></div>
I bought a 12" gong and 16" gong from Arntzen Targets.
http://www.arntzentargets.com/products.htm
Re: metal target AR500-need help
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lexington</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: beretta_man11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
that being said, where is a good place to buy some AR500? </div></div>
I bought a 12" gong and 16" gong from Arntzen Targets.
http://www.arntzentargets.com/products.htm </div></div>
Those are some nice looking targets.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lexington</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: beretta_man11</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
that being said, where is a good place to buy some AR500? </div></div>
I bought a 12" gong and 16" gong from Arntzen Targets.
http://www.arntzentargets.com/products.htm </div></div>
Those are some nice looking targets.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
Have it drilled or DIY. The welds breaks after a few thousand rounds of hits, unless the welds are nice and solid/reinforced and past a couple of times.
Have it drilled or DIY. The welds breaks after a few thousand rounds of hits, unless the welds are nice and solid/reinforced and past a couple of times.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Disasterpath</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use a torch to get the steel really hot and then drill it on a drill press if you have one or even a hand drill will work. Heat-drill-heat-drill-heat-drill................. </div></div>
You might as well just buy regular steel at this point. You are removing all the heat treat. A good cobalt bit should drill it with cutting oil if you take your time starting with 3/16 working up in 1/16'' increments. This steel isn't any harder than some stainless. I use Norseman Premium HSS bits for alot of stainless applications and these gold bits cut excellent. Avail at Fastenal.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Disasterpath</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Use a torch to get the steel really hot and then drill it on a drill press if you have one or even a hand drill will work. Heat-drill-heat-drill-heat-drill................. </div></div>
You might as well just buy regular steel at this point. You are removing all the heat treat. A good cobalt bit should drill it with cutting oil if you take your time starting with 3/16 working up in 1/16'' increments. This steel isn't any harder than some stainless. I use Norseman Premium HSS bits for alot of stainless applications and these gold bits cut excellent. Avail at Fastenal.
Re: metal target AR500-need help
And even better, a well lubed Mag Drill will cut it in no time flat. Lube is the key, without it, you will have a very expensive paddle mixer.
And even better, a well lubed Mag Drill will cut it in no time flat. Lube is the key, without it, you will have a very expensive paddle mixer.
