Micrometer type dies

B

brubuck

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Minuteman
Dec 27, 2010
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Santa Barbara Ca
#1
Hello all: First I want to say thanks to Lowlight for Snipershide. I have learned alot from all of you thank you.
I want to jump up in loading die performance, would like to get some of the micrometer type dies. What suggestions do you have. Right now I have regular RCBS dies.
Thank you B.A.C.
 
#2
Re: Micrometer type dies

Redding Competition Seater and Forster Micrometer Seater work exactly the same, the numbers on the Redding are easier to read, the Forster is cheaper by 20 bucks, don't waste your money on the Redding Competition Neck die, FL everytime.
 
#3
Re: Micrometer type dies

I use redding. Easy to use.
I use the neck sizer. When I have 2 reloads on the brass I FL size, trim, neck size and then get another 3 firings before I do it again. If you are shooting a bolt gun like me it is OK to do.
I like the redding because I can adjust the seating depth precisely and it is consistent from throw to throw.
 
#4
Re: Micrometer type dies

A "micrometer" seater head is for user convienence only, they can make it a little bit faster/easier to obtain a specific seating depth. They do absolutely nothing for accuracy nor reducing bullet runout, as such.

The only seaters 'better' than conventional types are the Forsters and Reddings and that only because of their full-body lenght sleeves that control the entire process as straight as possible. Seaters with mic heads but with short, loosely fitted bullet guide sleeves (not full body) such as the RCBS and Hornady are convienent to use but, on average, really do no better job than conventional seaters - which are, in fact, usually quite good.

No seater can make straight ammo in cases with bent or uneven necks.

IMHO.
 
#5
Re: Micrometer type dies

Forster recently made their dies way easier to read. They are easier to read now than the reddings.

I own both forster and redding micro seater dies and I like the Forsters way better. Here's why:

1.Forster is lockable at any setting. Can't do that with a redding. Dies do get bumped and knocked out of a setting.

2. Forster is easier to read.

3.Has a + and a - marked to make seating direction more idiot proof.

4. Is painted and not bare metal. Forget to wipe a redding die down and you might see a rusty finger print on it next time you use it.

5. You can actually zero the forster. The forster will adjust so the zero line actually means zero. This takes a little 'splainin:

Take a .308 seater. On the redding there isn't enough room on the die adjustment to seat at 2.800 (Standard .308 mag length.) and have the die read zero. The dial has to be set at 1.5 or 2 and "zero'd."

The forster actually can be zero'd at zero.

I like to zero mine at saami coal and move the bullet out from there. Gets confusing with the redding. You have to make a note somewhere that "1.5 on die ='s zero." On the forster zero is zero.
 
#8
Re: Micrometer type dies

I have both redding and forster. I prefer the forster because you can get the complete die set for usually half the price of the redding. Because of that since buying my .308 redding competition set, I've strictly been buying the forster die sets for my 6.5x47L, 30-06, and 7mm RM.
 
#9
Re: Micrometer type dies

" I am looking for faster more precision setup."

"Fast" and "precision" are mutually exclusive terms.

I have both Redding and Forster seaters. Prefer the Forsters (slightly) ... and without the micrometer tops because I just don't need 'em.
 
#10
Re: Micrometer type dies

I don't dismiss micrometer dies, but I also don't use them. They are a nice piece of equipment, and they deliver what they advertise. Primarily, they can make it easier to make controlled adjustments of cartridge dimensions.

For my own purposes, they could work, but so do my conventional dies. I just need to employ more care when I set them up and change their adjustments.

This is less of a problem for me than for others because I use the Dillon RL550B. This (and other Dillon presses) take advantage of an interchangeable toolhead for my die setup. This allows me to do my dies setup less often, usually just the once, when I establish a given load. The toolhead allows me to switch out entire die setups without disturbing their individual die adjustments.

If I were using a single stage press, I could not employ this advantage; and a micrometer die would undoubtedly make more sense.

Greg
 
#12
Re: Micrometer type dies

i have a question , being a relative rookie , i am loading 338 lapua brass with redding micrometer comp dies i put black soot over the case to set it up to see what is being done to the case . I have a .364 neck size die which i ran the cases through . how do you set the bullet height? I heard it has to be custom fit to your rifle ?? thanks in advance
mick
 
#13
Re: Micrometer type dies

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MICKIN310</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i have a question , being a relative rookie , i am loading 338 lapua brass with redding micrometer comp dies i put black soot over the case to set it up to see what is being done to the case . I have a .364 neck size die which i ran the cases through . how do you set the bullet height? I heard it has to be custom fit to your rifle ?? thanks in advance
mick </div></div>

You need to measure distance to the lands, the easiest way is to get the Hornady compartor kit. Here

Once you have established exactly where the bullet you intend to use touches the rifling you can then go ahead and decide on your COAL.

Caution, please be aware that loading into the rifling can lead to excess pressure. The .338 is a big high pressure round so please exercise all caution if you are new to this.
 
#16
Re: Micrometer type dies

I have the Redding Type-S Match set for 308 and I like the micrometer seater. It does make it faster and easier to change seating depth, 1 tick on the dial is .001", so I measure from the ogive and make ONE adjustment and I'm done. No screwing in and out trial and error. With my Forster Co-Ax press I can leave my dies set and just pop them in and out whenever I want. I'm happy with the Redding set, but I have Forster dies too (no micrometer sets though) and they're just as nice. Redding and Forster are my favorite reloading companies, and I have dies from everybody as I load for all different calibers. Reading what is posted above about the new Forster seaters vs the old, I might have purchased Forster when I bought my 308 set if they had those changes.

You didn't ask about sizing dies, but I'll throw it out there anyway in case you're thinking of replacing entire sets instead of just buying seaters: Forster decapping assemblies in their sizing dies don't seem as sturdy as other brands, and the instructions specifically state not to use them on military crimped primers. No matter to me as I decap first with a Lee decapping die, but something to be aware of.
 
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