Might have destroyed my Chargemaster….

PinesAndProjectiles

Formerly MinnesotaMulisha
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Jul 30, 2013
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    It’s been a while since I’ve loaded any ammo. Maybe six or seven months.

    Last time around, I was loading 9mm with TiteGroup.

    Complete oversight on my part but I left some powder in the dispenser.

    The powder grains are now stuck to the inside of it.

    Any ideas on how I can remove all this old powder?

    It scrapes off but I’m not sure I’ll be able to get it all. I’m afraid if I use it for another powder, they’ll mix.

    IMG_1256.jpeg
    IMG_1255.jpeg
     
    Yikes! That looks like a chemical bond of some sort. I’m not sure what would remove that from the plastic without damaging the plastic itself. Or even if there’s something that will do it.

    I suppose maybe you could try contacting RCBS and asking them.

    Worst case, I’m seeing them crop up in the PX for around $200 from time to time.
     
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    Reactions: simonp
    Did you try burning it out? Joke!

    Fine sand paper or such will be the best bet to salvage a ruined hopper.

    Excerpt from Hodgden warnings.
    “Powder left in the reloader’s powder measure hoppers for extended periods, overnight or several days, should be avoided. Powder needs to be stored in original containers ONLY when not in use. Numerous mod- ern smokeless powders are double base in construction, containing both Nitrocellulose and Nitroglycerine. Many powder measures use plastics containing polystyrene, which Nitroglycerine adversely affects when contact is made for extended periods of time, resulting in etching or misshaping the plastic. Normal usage during the reloading process does not provide adequate time for this to occur, so simply draining hoppers into the original containers when the reloading is completed for the day, prevents damaging the hoppers”

    Source.
     
    Try some acetone
    Acetone will probably attack the polymer of the Chargemaster, but the powder already has attacked it. So you could do a test in a small area with acetone on a Q-tip to see how it goes. Then finish it with fine, then very fine sandpaper. In the Home Depot paint department, you can find some very fine papers. If you live near a Struers distribution center, they sell FEPA 4000 grit that will produce and optical finish, but you'd invest about 40 hours getting there.
     
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    Reactions: Doom
    Acetone will probably attack the polymer of the Chargemaster, but the powder already has attacked it. So you could do a test in a small area with acetone on a Q-tip to see how it goes. Then finish it with fine, then very fine sandpaper. In the Home Depot paint department, you can find some very fine papers. If you live near a Struers distribution center, they sell FEPA 4000 grit that will produce and optical finish, but you'd invest about 40 hours getting there.
    Acetone will effect the color but shouldn't ruin the plastic. Take Q tips and put some brake cleaner, nail polish remover, whatever has acetone and just Scrub the flakes and see if it removes it
     
    I know, but 15 other demented posters beat us to that one!
    It’s never too late to do the right thing.

    Side note, the burny components of the powder probably got used up reacting with the plastic so it won’t burn now at all but the fact that every post on this thread isn’t “BURN IT” makes me wonder what the hide has become.
     
    RCBS will not have parts or warranty your measure. At this point don't damage the electronics with fluids or fire. Take pictures and notes and disassemble the dispenser. Once disassembled try soaking the parts in hot/warm water with Dawn dishwashing soap. Blue Scotch-brite pads will not scratch and should remove remaining residue. Once dry reassemble and give it a try. Even if it doesn't work you really haven't lost anything as you can't use it as it is.

    Good Luck!

    P.S. - I did have to disassemble my original Chargemaster because of an electrical issue. It was a loose connection that RCBS would not cover and was simple, disconnect all electrical connections and then reconnect. Still working today.
     
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    Reactions: cruze5
    I've seen it embed in plastic hopper tubes, but never into anything else.

    Me? I'd wipe it down the best I could, scotch brite it like he says above, and do nothing else, just use it as is.

    Unless all the left over powder comes out at once and goes into one single case, I don't expect to notice. I gave up worrying about a little left over minor traces of powder in my Pact unit ages ago.
     
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    Reactions: supercorndogs
    I found the pieces from my intellidropper, and it looks like I had already scraped most of the powder off, and attempted to burn it at one point. As it turns out, burning it is not the way. There's a lot of pictures coming up with some text in between. Hopefully it's somewhat easy to follow.

    20231102_125503.jpg

    20231102_125601.jpg



    I found the hopper, and I had not attempted to clean that at all. It has been like this for at least two years. This was either CFE 223 or maybe Lil' Gun. Here's a picture of it in original condition, followed by an assortment of cleaning methods I tested on my lunch break today.
    20231102_122814.jpg


    First up, soap and water. This made the powder residue easy to remove, and didn't damage the plastic at all. It didn't remove much of the discoloration, but at least it was clean. 7/10
    20231102_123050.jpg


    I tried some 91% isopropyl alcohol on that same spot, which showed little improvement. Not worth the time, in my opinion. 3/10
    20231102_123315.jpg


    I tried acetone on a different spot. This turned the powder into a thick goo, and started to deform the plastic. -4/10
    20231102_123507.jpg


    CLR. Worked ok, didn't deform the plastic. Wasn't as easy to wipe powder off as just soap and water. 5/10
    20231102_124024.jpg



    Patch out & accelerator. Similar results to CLR. Kind of a waste, in my opinion. 5/10
    20231102_124029.jpg


    I had a few other solvents available, but not a lot of time left for lunch, so fire was the only option at that point. It lit slower than I expected, but once it lit, all of it went up fairly quick. It burned for a few seconds, then fizzled out, not changing much in appearance. 16/10, would certainly recommend.
    Screenshot_20231102-135344_Video Player.jpg

    Screenshot_20231102-135328_Video Player.jpg

    Screenshot_20231102-135358_Video Player.jpg


    The top half of this picture is just burned, the bottom half is burned, then Patch out & accelerator.
    20231102_124818.jpg


    After all the exciting stuff was complete, I used hot soapy water and steel wool. This seemed to be the most efficient and effective way to clean the hopper. Again, it didn't take all of the discoloration out, but it removed any residue as far as I could tell. I'd feel comfortable using this hopper in the future, but might flip it over so the discolored portion isn't in contact with the powder most of the time. 9/10
    20231102_125202.jpg


    After this not so scientific test, I'd recommend disassembling everything, and cleaning it with soap and water first. If that doesn't remove enough of the residue, maybe try sanding it with a very fine grit sandpaper afterwards. I can try that later, if that would be any help.
     
    I found the pieces from my intellidropper, and it looks like I had already scraped most of the powder off, and attempted to burn it at one point. As it turns out, burning it is not the way. There's a lot of pictures coming up with some text in between. Hopefully it's somewhat easy to follow.

    View attachment 8262646
    View attachment 8262647


    I found the hopper, and I had not attempted to clean that at all. It has been like this for at least two years. This was either CFE 223 or maybe Lil' Gun. Here's a picture of it in original condition, followed by an assortment of cleaning methods I tested on my lunch break today.
    View attachment 8262654

    First up, soap and water. This made the powder residue easy to remove, and didn't damage the plastic at all. It didn't remove much of the discoloration, but at least it was clean. 7/10
    View attachment 8262659

    I tried some 91% isopropyl alcohol on that same spot, which showed little improvement. Not worth the time, in my opinion. 3/10
    View attachment 8262661

    I tried acetone on a different spot. This turned the powder into a thick goo, and started to deform the plastic. -4/10
    View attachment 8262688

    CLR. Worked ok, didn't deform the plastic. Wasn't as easy to wipe powder off as just soap and water. 5/10
    View attachment 8262701


    Patch out & accelerator. Similar results to CLR. Kind of a waste, in my opinion. 5/10
    View attachment 8262706

    I had a few other solvents available, but not a lot of time left for lunch, so fire was the only option at that point. It lit slower than I expected, but once it lit, all of it went up fairly quick. It burned for a few seconds, then fizzled out, not changing much in appearance. 16/10, would certainly recommend.
    View attachment 8262710
    View attachment 8262711
    View attachment 8262717

    The top half of this picture is just burned, the bottom half is burned, then Patch out & accelerator.
    View attachment 8262719

    After all the exciting stuff was complete, I used hot soapy water and steel wool. This seemed to be the most efficient and effective way to clean the hopper. Again, it didn't take all of the discoloration out, but it removed any residue as far as I could tell. I'd feel comfortable using this hopper in the future, but might flip it over so the discolored portion isn't in contact with the powder most of the time. 9/10
    View attachment 8262722

    After this not so scientific test, I'd recommend disassembling everything, and cleaning it with soap and water first. If that doesn't remove enough of the residue, maybe try sanding it with a very fine grit sandpaper afterwards. I can try that later, if that would be any help.
    Now try toothpaste or a car paste wax. :giggle: