Bought my son an MKII TR. What needs to be done to this rifle to first clean, run through how many rounds for break in, seek out things overlooked during production, look at modifying, etc.? He obviously wants to add scope and bi-pod. Comments on scope or bi-pod?
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
MKII TR-What to do?
- Thread starter jefftb
- Start date
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
Clean it initially. Take care not to damage the crown.
DON'T worry about breaking the barrel. Start shooting. It takes a LONG time to break a rimfire barrel with subsonic velocities.
Nothing is overlooked during the production. This rifle shoots 1/4" groups at 50 yards, what modifications are you talking about? Any rifle can be modified and upgraded. But for right now, get used to the rifle, learn the ballistics, and get good at it.
Sky is the limit on scopes. Hard to recommend.
I like Harris bipod for rimfires or Caldwell pivot model.
Clean it initially. Take care not to damage the crown.
DON'T worry about breaking the barrel. Start shooting. It takes a LONG time to break a rimfire barrel with subsonic velocities.
Nothing is overlooked during the production. This rifle shoots 1/4" groups at 50 yards, what modifications are you talking about? Any rifle can be modified and upgraded. But for right now, get used to the rifle, learn the ballistics, and get good at it.
Sky is the limit on scopes. Hard to recommend.
I like Harris bipod for rimfires or Caldwell pivot model.
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
I put a Harris bipod and a Vortex 6.5-20x50 from a group buy on here on my Savage TR 17hmr. These definitley shoot very well. Last week the crows were nowhere to be found so we went out and shot shotgun shells off of a bush at 100 yds.
I put a Harris bipod and a Vortex 6.5-20x50 from a group buy on here on my Savage TR 17hmr. These definitley shoot very well. Last week the crows were nowhere to be found so we went out and shot shotgun shells off of a bush at 100 yds.
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
To add to that, I would suggest clean it and go shoot it. See how it does in it's current state. If you run into problems or are not getting the accuracy you expect from it there are a couple of things you can check.
- remove the action/barrel from the stock and have a look at the barrel pins. Sometimes they are touching the stock on either side and this may cause slight accuracy issues. If you notice marks on the stock from the pins, take a dremel and remove a little of the stock material so it no longer touches
- run a bill or similar material between the barrel and stock (with action in stock) to ensure there is no contact between the two. If so, remove action/barrel and use a dowel and some sandpaper to free float it
- check the torque of the bottom action screws to ensure they are not overtightened (this is a common problem as I understand)and bending the bottom metal which is very slight
There are other things you could check but I would suggest you first try shooting it and see how it does. For me, if you can get it at or below 1moa at 100yards you should be very happy.
To add to that, I would suggest clean it and go shoot it. See how it does in it's current state. If you run into problems or are not getting the accuracy you expect from it there are a couple of things you can check.
- remove the action/barrel from the stock and have a look at the barrel pins. Sometimes they are touching the stock on either side and this may cause slight accuracy issues. If you notice marks on the stock from the pins, take a dremel and remove a little of the stock material so it no longer touches
- run a bill or similar material between the barrel and stock (with action in stock) to ensure there is no contact between the two. If so, remove action/barrel and use a dowel and some sandpaper to free float it
- check the torque of the bottom action screws to ensure they are not overtightened (this is a common problem as I understand)and bending the bottom metal which is very slight
There are other things you could check but I would suggest you first try shooting it and see how it does. For me, if you can get it at or below 1moa at 100yards you should be very happy.
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 00Buck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">StanwoodSpartan, how do you like the Viper on the rimfire? I just ordered one the other day and can't wait till it arrives. Should be a good match.
</div></div>
Love it. I ordered it off of here when the $99 deal was going on. Reticle is a little thick so varmints way out there are a little harder to spot but overall I would highly recommend the Viper on this setup!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 00Buck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">StanwoodSpartan, how do you like the Viper on the rimfire? I just ordered one the other day and can't wait till it arrives. Should be a good match.
</div></div>
Love it. I ordered it off of here when the $99 deal was going on. Reticle is a little thick so varmints way out there are a little harder to spot but overall I would highly recommend the Viper on this setup!!
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
I picked up a Mk II TR a few months back and I've been nothing but happy with it. As I've heard to be the case with most Savage rifles, it shot great right out of the box. That being said, I did make a couple improvements/ modifications:
I replaced the factory 2-pc base with a Rimfire Tech 25 moa one piece base because I planned on shooting at longer ranges.
I also had my dealer order me a 1-1/2 lb spring for the accu-trigger so that the pull weight was more like that of my .308.
Also, I felt the bolt could have been a bit smoother cycling, so I removed it and gave it a little polishing on a buffing wheel (not enough to remove the finish, just enough to smooth out the rough spots). I'm sure this would have fixed itself with a little use, but I didn't want to wait.
I mounted a Bushnell 4200 Tactical in low TPS rings, which I later replaced with a Wotac 4-14 because I wanted more elevation adjustment. I added a Harris bipod and a stock pack, and it was good to go. With Wolf Match Extra, it shoots sub-moa at 100 yds, and with a little work and a good spotter, I was able to make several hits on an 8" steel plate at 400 yds.
Here's mine all set up:
And here it is next to it's "big brother":
I picked up a Mk II TR a few months back and I've been nothing but happy with it. As I've heard to be the case with most Savage rifles, it shot great right out of the box. That being said, I did make a couple improvements/ modifications:
I replaced the factory 2-pc base with a Rimfire Tech 25 moa one piece base because I planned on shooting at longer ranges.
I also had my dealer order me a 1-1/2 lb spring for the accu-trigger so that the pull weight was more like that of my .308.
Also, I felt the bolt could have been a bit smoother cycling, so I removed it and gave it a little polishing on a buffing wheel (not enough to remove the finish, just enough to smooth out the rough spots). I'm sure this would have fixed itself with a little use, but I didn't want to wait.
I mounted a Bushnell 4200 Tactical in low TPS rings, which I later replaced with a Wotac 4-14 because I wanted more elevation adjustment. I added a Harris bipod and a stock pack, and it was good to go. With Wolf Match Extra, it shoots sub-moa at 100 yds, and with a little work and a good spotter, I was able to make several hits on an 8" steel plate at 400 yds.
Here's mine all set up:
And here it is next to it's "big brother":
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
I just bought the TR and added a Harris S-BRM bipod with a Pod-Lok, a Diversified innovative Products 25 MOA base, a Weaver Grand Slam Tactical scope w/ Mil-dot .1 Mil turrents and Weaver Tactical 6- hole rings. Now just in the process of trying out different ammo and should be good to go...JaxOps
I just bought the TR and added a Harris S-BRM bipod with a Pod-Lok, a Diversified innovative Products 25 MOA base, a Weaver Grand Slam Tactical scope w/ Mil-dot .1 Mil turrents and Weaver Tactical 6- hole rings. Now just in the process of trying out different ammo and should be good to go...JaxOps
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
I Took my BRJ to Savagegunsmithing and had an accuracy job done.
He re crowns the barrel with a 11 degree target crown, beds the action, does a fantastic trigger job, breaks like glass at 10 OZ,
lightly lapps the barrel to remove any high spots and puts a 1/8" custom made bottom metal on the gun.
It went from shooting .4" ,5 shot groups @ 50 yds to a best of .1" and consistantly shoots in the .1" range with Wolf MT.
His web site is www.savagegunsmithing.com
Best money I ever spent on a rifle.
John K
I Took my BRJ to Savagegunsmithing and had an accuracy job done.
He re crowns the barrel with a 11 degree target crown, beds the action, does a fantastic trigger job, breaks like glass at 10 OZ,
lightly lapps the barrel to remove any high spots and puts a 1/8" custom made bottom metal on the gun.
It went from shooting .4" ,5 shot groups @ 50 yds to a best of .1" and consistantly shoots in the .1" range with Wolf MT.
His web site is www.savagegunsmithing.com
Best money I ever spent on a rifle.
John K
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
Mine shoots .500 or less at 100 yards on calm days off SAND BAGS and it is STOCK except for a 1/8" bottom metal that allows me to torque the action screws to 20lbs. I use an inexpensive Tasco 6-24x42mm with AO and target turret knobs that works very well.
Mine likes Wolf Match Target and all the cheap stuff spreads out on the target. Amazing, but it's true.
Shoot yours and enjoy it for a few bricks until you make any mods. I thought mine needed a bedded action and or pillars but it obviously does not.
Mine shoots .500 or less at 100 yards on calm days off SAND BAGS and it is STOCK except for a 1/8" bottom metal that allows me to torque the action screws to 20lbs. I use an inexpensive Tasco 6-24x42mm with AO and target turret knobs that works very well.
Mine likes Wolf Match Target and all the cheap stuff spreads out on the target. Amazing, but it's true.
Shoot yours and enjoy it for a few bricks until you make any mods. I thought mine needed a bedded action and or pillars but it obviously does not.
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 00Buck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is it very difficult to have a local metal shop make the 1/8" bottom metal. I am unable to send mine out.
Also, does it really make that much of a difference from the stock metal? </div></div>
Shoot your rifle for a while (with good ammo) and decide if it needs something. I jumped right in and thought I needed the bottom metal; maybe I didn't but I have it and use it.
The factory metal is extremely thin and it will bend if you over torque it. Also the wood under the plate on the TR is not overly thick. In the link John provided is where you can buy the metal plate. I think it's worth the cost.
But again, shoot your rifle. I'll bet it's a tack driver just the way it sits right now.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 00Buck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is it very difficult to have a local metal shop make the 1/8" bottom metal. I am unable to send mine out.
Also, does it really make that much of a difference from the stock metal? </div></div>
Shoot your rifle for a while (with good ammo) and decide if it needs something. I jumped right in and thought I needed the bottom metal; maybe I didn't but I have it and use it.
The factory metal is extremely thin and it will bend if you over torque it. Also the wood under the plate on the TR is not overly thick. In the link John provided is where you can buy the metal plate. I think it's worth the cost.
But again, shoot your rifle. I'll bet it's a tack driver just the way it sits right now.
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
It shoots good as is, usually in the .75 - 1.00 at 100 and ragged hole at 50 from a bipod on the ground. Just curious if the bottom metal would make it even more accurate or if I would just screw things up possibly.
It shoots good as is, usually in the .75 - 1.00 at 100 and ragged hole at 50 from a bipod on the ground. Just curious if the bottom metal would make it even more accurate or if I would just screw things up possibly.
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
The thicker bottom metal does away with any need for pillars, allows more torque without bending the thin stock metal which crushes the wood in the stock.
Due to the way that the Savage screws hold the action, it could even increase accuracy, but I have not done any tests on my rifle to prove this.
It's well worth the money so you can experiment with different torque without damaging your stock.
My BRJ likes 20 IP, more that 15 IP bends the metal on my rifle.
I'm sure the accurizing job was responsable for most of the accuracy increase. It came with the bottom metal, so I'm not sure how much the botom metal helped the accuracy, but it sure protects the stock.
John K
5 Shots, 50 yards, Wolf MT. Take .220" away and it's a fantastic group.
The thicker bottom metal does away with any need for pillars, allows more torque without bending the thin stock metal which crushes the wood in the stock.
Due to the way that the Savage screws hold the action, it could even increase accuracy, but I have not done any tests on my rifle to prove this.
It's well worth the money so you can experiment with different torque without damaging your stock.
My BRJ likes 20 IP, more that 15 IP bends the metal on my rifle.
I'm sure the accurizing job was responsable for most of the accuracy increase. It came with the bottom metal, so I'm not sure how much the botom metal helped the accuracy, but it sure protects the stock.
John K
5 Shots, 50 yards, Wolf MT. Take .220" away and it's a fantastic group.
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
I think it would help due to the fact that many Savage RF's like a litle more than 15 inch pounds of torque and when you try to go over 15, it bends the stock metal and damages the wood in the stock.
The heavier metal also seems to spread the torque over the whole bottom section, not just where the screw hole is in the stock bottom metal. I think the lack of wood in the bottom of the stock and thin metal were two things that Savage should have changed. I've heard they are putting more material in the synthetic stocks, but have not seen one and don't know if they plan to redesign the wood stocks with more wood left under the area of the trigger. Sure would be nice if they would.
John K
I think it would help due to the fact that many Savage RF's like a litle more than 15 inch pounds of torque and when you try to go over 15, it bends the stock metal and damages the wood in the stock.
The heavier metal also seems to spread the torque over the whole bottom section, not just where the screw hole is in the stock bottom metal. I think the lack of wood in the bottom of the stock and thin metal were two things that Savage should have changed. I've heard they are putting more material in the synthetic stocks, but have not seen one and don't know if they plan to redesign the wood stocks with more wood left under the area of the trigger. Sure would be nice if they would.
John K
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
i like to devcon bed the bottom metal and trigger guard on my savage rimfires. Helps with or without the thicker bottom metal.
i like to devcon bed the bottom metal and trigger guard on my savage rimfires. Helps with or without the thicker bottom metal.
Re: MKII TR-What to do?
Anything you can do to increase the strength of the little bit of wood in the Savage stock is a good thing.
They may have not designed the stock as I would have liked it in that area, but my Savage sure does shoot.
I think it's the best value for the money. Heck, it only cost $180 to have it accurized at Savagegunsmithing, they did a fantastic job, the trigger is so sweet, darn near brings tears to my eyes. A .3" decrease in group size that I got on mine makes one heck of a difference.
John K
Anything you can do to increase the strength of the little bit of wood in the Savage stock is a good thing.
They may have not designed the stock as I would have liked it in that area, but my Savage sure does shoot.
I think it's the best value for the money. Heck, it only cost $180 to have it accurized at Savagegunsmithing, they did a fantastic job, the trigger is so sweet, darn near brings tears to my eyes. A .3" decrease in group size that I got on mine makes one heck of a difference.
John K
Similar threads
